The Ottoman KL – Balkan Restaurant, TTDI
Words: Jacob Weber
Photos: Peter Tan
I’d never tasted Balkan cuisine before. But from the first bite at the Ottoman KL, I knew it wouldn’t be the last.
In fact, we’d never tasted anything like this in KL. That’s probably because it’s the only restaurant in Malaysia serving this kind of cuisine. And after our visit, I’m convinced that there should be one of these on every corner. This food is magnificent.
“The Balkans” refers to the countries that span Southeast Europe from the Black Sea to the Adriatic, including those once part of the Ottoman Empire. The Ottoman KL pays respectful homage to this history with a diverse menu that highlights the region’s distinct culinary traditions. Chef Behzo, a Bosnian native with almost three decades of experience in KL, brings it to life.
It’s a charming, comfortable space, with gilt-edged artwork depicting the grand old opulence of the Empire — think palaces, forts and fantastically-bearded men. The Ottoman KL is also Muslim-friendly, with no pork or alcohol (nor BYOB) available. There’s plenty of seating for small or large groups, with a catered buffet option easily available for private gatherings or events. And this food is definitely for sharing.
Chef Behzo begins the procession of plates from the kitchen — vibrant, hearty, generously loaded and beautifully presented plates — and we settle down to get started.
The Ottoman KL Menu
First, a light, bright and satisfying Bulgarian Shepherd Salad (RM24.90) featuring capsicum, cucumbers, onions, mushrooms, tomatoes, boiled eggs, cheddar cheese, balsamic sauce and virgin olive oil. Fresh, filling and beautifully balanced.
I thoroughly recommend the Japrak (RM18.90), delightful, chewy, hand-rolled parcels of soft basmati saffron rice and rich ground beef wrapped in pickled grape leaves that give a sharp, tangy contrast to the savoury rice and meat.
The menu says that the Vegetarian Bean Soup (RM18.90) is “tastier than it sounds!” It’s the understatement of the century — this is one of the most delicious and dangerously addictive dishes I’ve tried lately. This so-called ‘simple’ recipe of beans, onions and capsicum is absolutely packed with rich flavour profiles that grab your taste buds by the shoulders and slap them around the face. The slightly caramelised onion adds a beautiful edge, the cream garnish adds an additional layer of comfort, and the crusty homemade bread is perfect for dipping. I want to order another one, but we have a job to do …
The Chicken Paprikash (RM39.90) features beautifully seasoned slow-cooked chicken with more signature saffron rice, mixed vegetables, fresh and dry paprika and the chef’s choice of garnish. Hearty, nourishing and big enough to share between two (if you want to share, of course).
Likewise, the Stuffed Capsicum (RM36.90) — a massive roasted red capsicum stuffed with basmati rice and ground beef and served on a bed of creamy mashed potatoes — could satisfy more than one person. In fact, I’d recommend sharing. You’ll want to leave as much room to try as much of this menu as possible.
The Ottoman KL Kebab (Ćevapi) (RM45.90) is a hefty platter of grilled handmade ground beef bites with in-house pita bread made with yoghurt, ajvar (a spicy Serbian relish made from sweet bell pepper and eggplant), cream cheese and fresh onions. Again, the seasoning is outstanding. Again, it’s great to share. (Starting to get the picture?)
We can see exactly why the Ottoman Roasted Lamb (RM64.90) is a signature dish; this slow-roasted fillet of premium lamb, with the chef’s selection of dishes and sauces, stands out above some serious competition on this table. The generous chunks of lamb are beautifully cooked to a slightly pinkish middle, and of course, it’s seasoned to perfection.
If you can handle your creamy, dairy-based dishes, I heartily recommend the Omač Cheese Noodles (RM32.90). Homemade flat noodles coated in rich butter and smothered in a spectacular feta cheese sauce, topped with Chef’s garnish — it’s rich, unctuous and comforting. You’ll be less happy about sharing this one.
Dessert
We’re stuffed, but we couldn’t possibly pass up dessert. Don’t miss the Dzandar Baklava (RM18.90), a Bosnian-style baklava that is distinct from the Arab or Turkish varieties. Chef Behzo’s version is outstanding, sweet, crispy and crunchy, with creamy vanilla ice cream and rich, buttery walnuts adding more layers of texture and taste.
Another unique Bosnian-style dessert arrives, and we’re singing Chef’s praises all over again. The Tufahija (RM18.90) is a sweet, tart dish of walnut-stuffed apples poached in sugar water, topped with whipped cream and drenched in apple juice for good measure.
Drinks Menu
Working through this menu is thirsty work, so we’ve been washing all of this down with delicious coffees and soft drinks. The Mango Yoghurt Smoothie (RM17) is exactly what one looks for in a mango smoothie: sweet and creamy, with an ever-so-slightly-sour edge from the yoghurt that makes the mango shine. For something more refreshing, the Quince Sour Cooler is a lovely light sweet-and-sour beverage that goes down very well (and cleanses the palate to boot). Finally, a foamy Latte (RM10) to wrap up a very satisfying afternoon.
Reasons to visit The Ottoman KL: the first restaurant of its kind in Malaysia, serving outstanding, authentic Balkan cuisine; varied menu with familiar favourites and unique dishes based on traditional Bosnian recipes; generous, colourful, hearty portions of high-quality comfort food; Muslim-friendly; caters to small or large groups.
The Ottoman KL
UNIT 1-7, Menara KEN TTDI, 37 Jalan Burhanuddin Helmi
Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to The Ottoman KL on Google Maps
theottomankl.com @theottomankl
The Ottoman KL Opening Hours
Daily 11 am—10 pm
Closed Tuesdays
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