Step Back in Time: The Enchanting Tale of Pink Pearl by Olivier E. at JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa, Vietnam
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Monica Tindall (Header photo courtesy of JW Marriott)
Legend has it that the fabulous 1920s colonial mansion now housing Pink Pearl by Olivier E. was once the residence of Madame Pearl Collins. She was the second wife of the first principal of the fictional Lamarck University. It’s part of a whimsical backstory meticulously crafted by acclaimed architect Bill Bensley for JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa.
Pink Pearl by Olivier E.
Madame Pearl Collins was described as a vibrant, free-spirited “grand hostess” with a passion for French cuisine. The pink mansion served as a hub for lavish, “Great Gatsby-esque” dinner parties, with her creativity and art collection reflected in the design of Pink Pearl today. This detailed narrative is intricately woven into every aspect of the resort. We had to remind ourselves that none of this was here even ten years ago, a testament to the dedication to detail and quality.
This opulent restaurant, situated in its sumptuous pink mansion, evokes the Roaring Twenties with its high ceilings, vintage chandeliers, and carefully curated antiques. Beyond the main dining hall, five private dining rooms and a wine cellar provide intimate settings. One is on the same level as the main restaurant, while four are wrapped around a gallery overlooking the main space, and the wine cellar is a trip down a spiral staircase. These rooms boast spectacular ceilings covered with triangular mirrored panels, creating a magical dining effect. They also feature private washroom facilities and comfortable lounge seating, making them ideal for a truly exclusive and memorable meal.
From Whimsy to Worldwide Acclaim: The Real Chef Behind Pink Pearl
While Pink Pearl’s enchanting backstory is a delightful fiction, the culinary genius behind its new menu is very much a reality. Chef Olivier Elzer, a highly acclaimed French chef, was born in Germany and raised in Alsace, France. His impressive career includes being recognised by Gault Millau as one of France’s top young chefs in 2007, and an astonishing 30 Michelin stars over 16 consecutive years for his work in France and Hong Kong. He has led kitchens at prestigious establishments, including Pierre at Mandarin Oriental Hotel Hong Kong (two stars) and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon (three stars). He has achieved success with his own ventures, such as Seasons by Olivier E. (one star) and L’Envol (two stars). In 2022, his significant contributions to French gastronomy were honoured with the Knight in the Order of Agricultural Merit of the French Republic. Elzer is renowned for his modern French cuisine, skillfully blending classic techniques with innovative, lighter approaches. His culinary influence has expanded throughout Asia.
As the “Department of French Cuisine” for JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa, Pink Pearl’s refined French dining experience, infused with Mediterranean elements, is crafted by Chef Elzer’s vision and executed by his talented team in Phu Quoc. The curated menu combines the essence of the French Riviera with local ingredients. The Yum List had the distinct pleasure of being among the first guests to sample this exciting new menu, which launched the very week of our visit.
Five Course Set Menu (VND 4288) & Wine Pairing (VND 2388)
Amuse Bouche
Our waiter, Huy, appeared almost immediately after we were seated, presenting us with chilled Gosset Extra Brut NV Champagne and a plate of two delicate bites. These were arranged on a pebble-shaped ceramic dish filled with black beans. A passionfruit husk held sea bream and passionfruit ceviche, while beside it, tuna tartare rested on toasted rice, accompanied by a small bouquet of fresh greens from the JW Garden. As if by magic, a basket of bread materialised, which Monica declared wonderful; we had to resist eating more, mindful of the many courses to come.
Gamberoni Tartare
Next, the Gamberoni Tartare was beautifully composed with finely chopped raw prawns and crunchy fennel, served in a small caviar tin. Its black, briny beads of Kristal Caviar glistened attractively atop the tender, sweet prawns. The accompanying Kristal caviar, with its buttery and briny burst, perfectly complemented the delicate oceanic notes of the prawns. At the same time, the crunchy fennel added a fresh, aromatic, and slightly anise-like bite. To enhance this refined dish, our drink pairing of a crisp, dry Gosset Extra Brut NV Champagne proved to be an excellent choice; its fine bubbles, high acidity, and notes of brioche and citrus cut through the richness of the caviar, enhancing the natural sweetness of the prawns.
Blue Lobster
For me, the visually stunning Blue Lobster dish was a highlight of the entire meal. Slices of sweet, tender blue lobster were interspersed with creamy brandy blanc-manger, which added an aromatic and subtly sweet counterpoint. Osetra caviar provided an intense, nutty brininess. The Domaine Marcel Deiss Berckem Riesling, a complex and aromatic Alsatian white, proved to be an excellent and sophisticated pairing for the lobster. With its notes of tropical fruit, citrus, honey, and floral hints, coupled with vibrant acidity and a full body, this wine’s characteristics complemented the lobster’s delicate sweetness and richness.
Hokkaido Scallop ‘A La Nage‘
The Hokkaido Scallop ‘A La Nage’ featured Hokkaido scallops, celebrated for their generous size, inherent sweetness, and incredibly tender texture. While ‘a la nage’ traditionally suggests a delicate broth, this interpretation was a lavish sea urchin (uni) emulsion. This creamy, sweet, and briny elixir delivered an opulent umami punch. A whisper of Buddha’s Hand citrus cut through the richness with its bright, aromatic complexity. Its uni-forward richness created a memorable counterpoint.
The 2022 Rémi Jobard Bourgogne Blanc presented bright citrus, green apple, and subtle brioche notes, finishing with a crisp, mineral character. Its vibrant acidity and elegant texture beautifully cut through the rich uni emulsion while complementing the sweet, tender Hokkaido scallops and the aromatic Buddha’s Hand.
Roasted Iberico Pork Pluma
For the main course, we had a choice between the Japanese Wagyu A5 Tenderloin steak and the “Roasted Iberico Pork Pluma.” Our selection, the Iberico Pork Pluma, proved to be another standout dish, showcasing the pork’s renowned marbling and rich, nutty flavour. Roasted to perfection, it featured a caramelised, crispy exterior yielding to an incredibly tender, juicy interior. We enjoyed the seasonal vegetables on the side, including tender broccolini stems, and an Espelette pepper sauce that added a mild, sweet heat and fruity undertones.
While an Alvaros Palacios La Montesa Grenache Rioja was the intended pairing, its unavailability led to a substitution with Château Potensac, Médoc, 2019. Though a well-regarded Bordeaux, Monica found it a little too bold for the pork. Despite this, we thoroughly enjoyed this rich and memorable dish.
Dessert – Citrus
All too soon, our delightful meal was drawing to a close, but there’s always room for dessert! We chose the vibrant Citrus tableau over the chocolate. This delicate creation featured blood orange sorbet, with a creamy local calamansi honey mousse. It was surrounded by bright orange and pomelo segments and shimmering citrus pearls. A crisp honeycomb tuile added perfect textural contrast and height.
The sorbet’s tangy, fruity punch found balance with the mousse’s sweet-tart, aromatic notes. A chilled glass of Château Du Breuil Fine Calvados proved an exquisite digestif. Its apple and pear notes echoed the dessert’s citrus and honey elements.
A Sweet Farewell
We left with a final touch: a delightful duo of petit fours. A charming white chocolate heart and a small, vibrant citrus pastille, both perfectly sized, made for a sweet farewell.
Pink Pearl by Olivier E. Review
And so, as the final echoes of our soirée faded into the night, we bid farewell to Pink Pearl. With this dining experience, whimsy meets finesse. From Madame Pearl Collins’ captivating legacy to Chef Olivier Elzer’s imaginative, award-winning cuisine, the evening unfolded like a beautifully crafted tale. With such talent at the helm, it’s clear this grand old dame of hospitality is poised for many more magnificent chapters.
Reasons to visit Pink Pearl by Olivier E.: Enchanting “Roaring Twenties” ambience and whimsical backstory; we found the five-course menu with wine pairing just the right size; we look forward to checking out their Sunday brunch with DJ; take a look at the library of “wine memories” below the restaurant – purchase a bottle and you can sign you name, leaving your own memory on the shelf.
Pink Pearl by Olivier E.
JW Marriott Phu Quoc Emerald Bay Resort & Spa, Vietnam
Khem Beach, An Thoi Ward, Phu Quoc City, Kien Giang Province, Vietnam
Link to Pink Pearl on Google Maps
+84 29 73779999
mhrs.pqcjw.dining@marriott.com
www.pinkpearlrestaurant.com
*Prices are in VND ‘000 and subject to 5% service charge and government tax.
**Vegetarian menu available.
Pink Pearl Hours
Daily: 6 – 10 pm
Sunday Brunch (with DJ): 12 – 4 pm
Find more recommendations for gourmet travel in Vietnam here and stay up-to-date on the latest luxury travel finds via The Yum List on Instagram and The Yum List on Facebook.
