Black Ginger Phuket
Words: Monica Tindall
Photos: Han Sen Hau
Black Ginger might be the style of restaurant you’d suppose is recommended by tourists for tourists. With its beautiful wooden restaurant set above a fan palm-lined lake and unique entrance whereby guests are pulled on a floating pontoon across the water to the entrance, you’d be forgiven for thinking so. However, we’re fortunate to have many contacts in the food and beverage industry and expatriate friends living in Phuket. And, when I asked for suggestions of where to dine near the airport end of the island, Black Ginger came up repeatedly.
Yes, the setting is dramatic (and very social media-worthy). It reminds us of an episode of Survivor with flickering torches in full flame and boat boys heaving (not really, more like gently pulling) ropes to transport us on a flat-bottomed boat as we glide across the water’s surface from dock to restaurant. Thai background music is just loud enough to conceal the conversations of fellow diners but not intrusive enough to block out the evening bird call. Looking out from our patio table (there’s also air-conditioned, mossie-free seating inside), the TV show seems real.
However, Black Ginger is not all setting and no substance. Executive Sous Chef Anongrat Meklai, also known as Chef Piak, leads Black Ginger’s kitchen. Chef Piak takes great pride in creating traditional recipes with sophisticated flavours, and the restaurant has been in the Michelin Guide Phuket every year since its introduction in 2019.
Black Ginger Indulgence
Taking the pain of decision-making out of the equation, we leave it to Chef Piak’s wisdom with the Black Ginger Indulgence (THB 2 200 per person). The set menu showcases a variety of house specialties. It includes everything from vegetarian to chicken, seafood, fish, duck and even Wagyu beef.
To Begin
A trio of Chef-selected small bites are presented on royal blue ceramics – pomelo salad, vegetable wanton, and salad roll. These mouthfuls whet our appetites, delivering a little of each of the key elements Thai cuisine is known for – sweet, sour, spicy and salty.
Starters
The starters are presented together, with a single black plate providing a canvas for the mini works of art. Miang Pla Nopakao sees two miniature betel leaf rolls stuffed with white snapper and Thai herbs. They’re herbaceous and palate-cleansing. In the middle, Hoi Shell Park Mor presents a Hokkaido scallop hidden beneath mauve-hued rice paper as if waiting behind a veil before marriage in an archaic wedding ceremony. The tender mollusc sits atop a sweet peanut paste and is given some crunch with salty crushed peanuts and chopped spring onions. Lastly, Yum Som O Pou Nim is two items: a Siam pomelo salad with spicy lime sauce in a pale straw-coloured basket and a petite soft shell crab deep-fried until crispy and golden. The word “spicy” has me on high alert, and I pick out all large visible pieces of chilli before starting. It still has quite a kick, so you’ve been warned.
Salad
Yum Hua Plee Goong is elegantly presented atop arched banana blossom, with more of the same sliced with prawn and tossed in a lime dressing. Once more, I’ve picked off the chillies, so the spice is mild and pleasant. It’s a fresh, cleansing dish and a perfect segue to the mains.
A Pause
A pause to mention the staff: if it wasn’t clear from the beginning as we were being hauled across the lake by the welcoming committee, the service at Black Ginger is exceptional. From providing a mirrored side table for our enthusiastic photographer Han Sen to spraying me down neck-to-toe in mossie repellent to setting up a standing fan to further ward off the insects, the kind servers couldn’t do enough for us. They patiently explained each dish, adjusted timing to match our speed, and did everything with grace and plentiful smiles.
Black Ginger Mains
The mains give true meaning to the “indulgence” title of the menu. From crab to Wagyu, the chef has certainly included some premium ingredients and is liberal in their use. Gaeng Pou is a prime example, with soft, sweet pieces of crabmeat filling a bowl of curry with chaplu (betel) leaves. A small mound of angel-hair-thin rice noodles sides the bowl for soaking or dipping at your pleasure.
However, if you like to start with more delicately seasoned items and build up, I recommend beginning with Pla Neung Se-Ew – steamed fish fillet with Thai herbs and soy sauce. It’s meaty yet very clean. Be sure to scoop to the bottom to catch the thin slices of braised mushroom, Chinese cabbage and sauce. Next, take the crab and leave the veggies and beef for last.
I love the tender crunch in the Phad Pak. The local veggie (chayote) maintains a firm texture yet is smooth and soft outside. The simple oyster sauce and egg topping are familiar and comforting and assist in softening the palate between mouthfuls of the Nuer Yang, which has a sharp level of heat. The grilled wagyu beef is dressed with a tangle of Thai Herbs, pickled veg, and a spicy chilli shallot sauce drizzled over the top. The beef is full and fatty, and the acidity and heat in the sauce are welcome components slicing through its richness.
Completing the mains is a pretty Rice Trio – steamed white, brown and pandan – and a leaf cone of fresh condiments, including sliced cucumber, sprouts and edible blooms.
Dessert
Black Ginger’s Indulgence menu concludes with Kluay Cheam Indigo. It’s a gorgeous plate of poached banana slices with bruleed tops, dehydrated banana thins, coconut jelly chunks, and indigo ice cream, thanks to local butterfly pea. They’re gracefully laid across a coconut biscuit crumble and given an additional spot of colour and prettiness with a mauve and yellow flower.
Coffee or tea is included, and the servers are happy to sway a little from the menu with a request for fresh ginger and honey tea, instead of a traditional loose-leaf tea or bag.
Black Ginger Review
Undoubtedly, Black Ginger is a beautiful place worthy of photos and videos in your feed. However, the appealing setting is only the backdrop for a delicious, well-balanced meal and outstanding service. The recipes are refined, well-balanced and founded on premium ingredients. We can see why it’s recommended by local residents, those in the industry and visitors alike.
Reasons to visit Black Ginger: Incredible setting and dramatic entrance; well-balanced and refined Thai cuisine made with premium ingredients.
Insider tip: I love to dine outdoors and often sit outside until the weather no longer allows it. However, in Black Ginger’s tropical setting, there are a LOT of mosquitoes. The team has done almost everything imaginable to prevent the invasion, such as torches, oil lamps, bug spray and fans. Yet, mossies are conniving little creatures and always seem to find a way to my flesh. Depending on the evening, the smoke from the torch flames, insect repellent and those little bities can be too much – even for alfresco diehards like me. On the other hand, indoor air-conditioning can be quite chilly, so whatever you decide, come prepared clothing-wise. Also, consider making an early booking (around 6 pm) so you can appreciate the beautiful setting before the night conceals it.
Black Ginger Thai Restaurant at The Slate Phuket
116, Moo 1, Sakhu, Thalang, Phuket 83110
+66 076 327 006
Black Ginger Opening Hours
Daily: 6 pm – 11 pm
Dress code: Smart casual
Reservation is essential.
Due to the limited number of tables available, guests are kindly requested to pay a non-refundable deposit of THB 1,000 / person to confirm the reservations.
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Classy! That table setting says it all!