Rayavadee – Krabi, Thailand
Words: Claire Matheson
Photos: Monica Tindall
Have you ever entertained a fantasy of running away to a tropical island paradise and living in a remote treehouse in the jungle? Perhaps your childhood fantasy has now grown up, replacing rustic survival with refined service full of thoughtful details and luxuries? Surrounded on all sides by the dramatic cliffs of Krabi Marine National Park in Thailand, Rayavadee is a dreamlike island escape you won’t want to leave. A place where you can live out your castaway fantasies with sumptuous comfort in a natural wilderness utopia.
Sprawling across 23 acres, Rayavadee encompasses most of the Railay Peninsula, including Railay, Phra Nang and East Railay Beaches. Cutting between the imposing black and orange sheer limestone cliffs dotted with hanging stalactites and secretive caves, the resort is nestled in valley floors. Accessible only by boat, the area is a haven for native wildlife and rock climbing adventurists alike, but the aim of our visit is to relax, rejuvenate, and live out our dreams of running away to a tropical island utopia.
Greeted by welcome drinks of lime sorbet and coconut water made from coconuts grown on-site, the attentive Rayavadee staff walk us through a map of the resort. We need to pay attention as the extensive grounds are a maze of red-bricked pathways crisscrossing through luscious overhanging jungle gardens, the landscaping adding to the feeling of stepping into a lost world, utterly sheltered from outside stressors.
Rayavadee has one foot firmly in the past heritage of Krabi’s most beautiful peninsula, and one foot in the future of sustainable, luxury travel. All the staff we encounter are friendly, welcoming and unobtrusively accommodating. Ready at hand to provide a carafe of chilled water, a fresh, fluffy towel, or an organised trip to see more of the wonders of Krabi Marine National Park.
Rayavadee – Krabi, Thailand
Less than thirty minutes after landing at Krabi airport, we are greeted by a private driver, who takes us to Rayavadee’s very own jetty in Ao Nam Mao, where we are transferred onto the resort’s exclusive speedboat. While the Railay Peninsula is not technically an island, it is accessible only by boat, completely cut off from the Krabi mainland by borders of soaring limestone cliffs. We take our seats on a luxury, 14-seat speeder, complete with cream leather and polished wood interior, the super long gangplank ensuring our feet stay nice and dry. A very different experience to arriving in Railay via traditional longtail, this is just as fun but sleek and fast, with an air of prestige. The White Lotus theme song plays in our minds as we shift gears into island life.
Rayavadee covers the bulk of the Railay Peninsula, and while Railay, Phra Nang and East Railay Beaches are all available for public use, the best lounging and dining vantages to enjoy the golden sands and turquoise waters of the three beaches are private to Rayavadee. We spend much of our time alternating between sun loungers alongside the different beaches, enjoying the best vantage spots in Krabi province to enjoy the sun, spectacular views, and sheltered exclusivity of the resort grounds, all with immaculate and attentive service by the immutable Rayavadee staff.
From the resort’s Umbrella Tree Court, guests can recline on rows of padded loungers as they gaze out over Phranang Beach to Ko Rang Nok, Ko Poda and Ko Kai islands – locally termed Chicken Rock for its mimicry of the head and beak of a chicken. While private luxury yachts bob at anchor offshore, we enjoy closer proximity to some of the most spectacularly beautiful beaches in the world.
One of the best swimming locations in the Krabi Province, the only sound is the breaking waves. Phranang Beach now has a new protective ban on longtails landing along this stretch, aimed at reducing noise and other pollution in the National Park, ensuring tranquil calm and quiet for Rayavadee guests. At sunset, dripping stalactites hang frozen and suspended in time from the Tham Phranang outcrop, the falling rays painting the rock in golden russets. At the base of the towering cliff face, male travellers stop by The Princess Cave to worship the local spirits of fertility and utter their prayers for blessings in Krabi’s cave of wonders. They try to pick their likeness among the wooden carved statues while female travellers exchange mirthful glances and chuckle knowingly.
Over at Railay Beach, there is plenty of people watching to be done and a general sense of fun and adventure in the air. From the expansive, coconut palm-shaded pool, you can enjoy unspoilt views of the surrounding cliffs and caves that envelope Railay and Tonsai Beaches, internationally renowned for their exceptional rock climbing challenges.
By lunchtime, Railay is in full swing; we lie back on our pool and beachside loungers to watch the procession of backpackers boarding longtails for trips to the islands or transfers to Ao Nang. A short stroll down the beach brings us to Railay walking street, where we stop for a cold drink before continuing to check out the local massage therapists, restaurants, bars and shops. A handful of other resorts along the bay offer lunch and evening dining and drinks, though Rayavadee resort’s restaurants are the top dining locations on the peninsula.
Grounds & Facilities
Dotted through the lushly landscaped grounds are the many pith-helmet roofed safari-style Pavilions of Rayavadee. Although the pool pavilions and villas are the only resort accommodation with fully fenced privacy, each pavilion is surrounded by dense foliage, creating a wall of green for intimate, secluded quiet, only broken at twilight by the croak of nearby frogs. Walking tracks and golf cart buggy tracks wind their way through the dense trees and lower-story canopies of Railay Peninsula, providing secluded and exclusive access between the three beaches.
Small education plaques scattered throughout inform of local and scientific names for plant and tree species, helping guests appreciate Rayavadee’s vast biodiversity. You do not need to leave the comfort of the resort to spot countless birds, local reptiles and mammals. Each of the three winding pathways of Rayavadee has self-guided wildlife walking tours available, with detailed learning materials provided within your pavilion.
At each beach, guests can recline with exceptional views on stepped terraces just above the sand. Discrete staff members are nearby to take orders, deliver drinks, and provide plenty of towels and citrus-infused water. The sweeping main swimming pool stretches out along the forecourt at Railay Beach, with a jacuzzi section, shallow kids pool, and convex outer infinity edge giving plenty of space for you to gaze at the view or take all the Instagram photos you need without anyone else in your shot. While we relax in the delightfully cool but not overly chilly pool, a pair of loved-up hornbills hop between surrounding Indian sea-almond trees and coconut palms. Later in the afternoon, we spy electric blue kingfishers as they dart through the foliage, and grey-bellied squirrels race up and down tree trunks, searching for fruit and nuts.
For those after some fitness, while you are visiting, the well-equipped gym has rainforest views and plenty of lemongrass-infused chilled towels, as well as an indoor squash court. Rayavadee’s tennis court is currently undergoing resurfacing, but in the meantime, a family of Spectacled Langur, or Dusky Leaf Monkey, has made themselves at home, giving gym-goers plenty of wildlife watching as you workout. Guided sunrise yoga, hatha yoga, nature flows, and meditations are held daily, along with an introduction to Muay Thai boxing, circuit conditioning sessions, and multiple organised hikes. There are plenty of options for the adventurous or energetic traveller.
If your desire to explore isn’t yet satisfied, day trips to Phi Phi, Bamboo Island, Hong Kong Island, James Bond Island, Poda and Chicken Islands are available, run by Rayavadee’s knowledgeable staff guides. There are also kayaking and snorkelling tours, Koh Klang eco-tours, Jungle Adventures and visits to a local Elephant Sanctuary. Rayavadee’s dedicated water sports department have you covered if you’re inclined to take a kayak, stand-up paddleboard or Hobie catamaran out into the pristine waters surrounding Railay Peninsula for an up-close discovery of the marine wildlife that calls this area home.
For those seeking therapeutic relaxation at the hands of one of Rayavadee’s on-site masseurs, the elegant and sensual Rayavadee Spa is open daily. Their current monthly special offer is a 75-minute massage treatment for THB2,999 per person.
If your chosen method of relaxation is shopping, the on-site boutique is actually more of a small department store, with an extensive range of luxury resort wear, artworks, jewellery, kids apparel and toys.
The resort has a number of dining options, including Raya Dining for breakfast and afternoon tea, Krua Phranang for a curated taste of Southern Thailand, Raitalay Terrace for beachside lunches and drinks with an Asian-Western fusion, and The Grotto for more intimate dinner fine dining. Guests can also order room service at any time, and there is a full chef’s selection menu for poolside ordering, including a range of drinks.
The Room
Rayavadee has five different types of two-story Pavilions available: the Deluxe Pavilion, the Terrace Pavilion with an additional outdoor terraced lounge, the Pool Pavilion with a private pool in a fully fenced lush rainforest garden, the Family Pavilion with a second bedroom complete with two extra queen sized beds, or the Family Pool Pavilion which is large enough to convince you that you’re on your own private island. Rayavadee also has seven bookable villas of varying sizes, each with its own fully private pools, indoor and outdoor living spaces, and dedicated personal butler service.
We are staying in a Terrace Pavilion close to the pool. Surrounded on all sides by a lush canopy of landscaped native gardens and frog ponds, despite its proximity to Railay Beach, we enjoy total seclusion and privacy. Shaded by a vine-covered pergola, the paved entryway has a foot bath, umbrella box, and courtyard patio with table and chairs perfect for your morning coffee. Entering the rounded house, the lounge room is spacious and thoughtfully designed with cooling terracotta tiled floors and highly polished dark wood panelling and furniture. Teak wood shutters and mosquito screens lend a feel of antique quality elegance, enabling guests to make use of the full outdoor terrace with comfortable couch seating – a second outdoor lounge space. A downstairs powder room offers additional convenience.
Tea and coffee-making facilities include boutique Rayavadee tea selections, freshly ground coffee with a French press, and a stash of house-made chocolate chip cookies. Fresh, seasonal tropical fruit is provided daily, including mangosteens and lychees. For those not wanting to leave the comfort and privacy of your pavilion, the minibar is stocked with snacks, chocolates, soft drinks and beers, as well as medium-sized bottles of a range of spirits and bottles of red and white wine. Room service is available on demand, with lunch, dinner and kids menus.
Curling around the outer wall of the pavilion, a curved staircase leads upstairs, where the vaulted, conical ceiling and full glass bay window supply natural light into the expansive bedroom, housing two full queen-sized beds. The beds give a goldilocks level of supportive firmness while comforting softness. Smoothly starched white linens and differing pillow choices for side and back sleepers guarantee a good night’s rest. The view from our windows is out onto a verdant canopy of green, where colourful birds, darting shrews, and cheeky grey squirrels compete for our attention.
Inside, beautiful and thoughtful detailing is present everywhere, from the leather-topped, brass-studded chest for suitcases, to the antique-styled desk and vanity station, to the Sherman retro Bluetooth speaker, to the extensive wardrobe space complete with waffle woven bathrobes and slippers. Artworks within the space include prints of hand-drawn French colonial maps of the area dating back to 1686, yielding a snapshot of the Kingdom of Siam from a bygone era.
Through a set of swinging saloon doors, the spacious bathroom curves around one of the walls. A large freestanding bathtub hugs the wall opposite his and hers bathroom sinks. Quality lighting and tap hardware, an expansive mirror, plush towels and live plants give the space an elevated, effortlessly opulent feel. Rayavadee’s toiletries are locally made, infusing aromas of native-grown lemongrass and other healing herbal scents.
Breakfast and Afternoon Tea at Raya Dining
Breakfast is served daily at Raya Dining from 7-11am, as well as complimentary Afternoon Tea on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, including a small local craft lesson. During our stay, the craft on offer is a guide to making herbal compresses using medicinally beneficial and aromatic plants grown on-site.
The afternoon tea service includes tea and coffee of your choice, as well as a number of other light refreshments. A small, well-selected buffet of finger sandwiches, mini quiches, tartlets, and scones with an array of toppings is on offer. We also enjoy some local delicacies: Thai fishcakes and tapioca pudding with fresh mango and coconut cream.
Breakfast comes with a full buffet of Western and Thai favourites, as well as a delicious a la carte menu with plenty of choices to suit every taste. Smaller-sized portions mean we can choose two selections each or make use of the full buffet spread. Monica opts for the house specialty French toast with maple syrup, caramelised banana and tropical fruits, while I select a bowl of the chilled oatmeal with coconut milk, coconut crisps, banana, peanut butter, chia and flax seeds, walnut and honey to begin with. For our second breakfasts, we try the kuay tiew ped toon rice noodle soup, with slow-braised duck leg, bean sprouts and scallions, as well as the eggs benedict with thick-cut grilled ham.
The buffet carries a wide selection of fresh-baked bread and pastries, including gluten-free options, with international and local topping choices. Cereals, granola, and healthy raisin bran are available, with Greek and fruit yoghurt choices. Sauteed vegetables, salads and plenty of tropical fruits are a healthier alternative, lending balance to the fine cheeses and cold cuts options, including roasted hams, duck and salami. Rice congee comes with all the toppings, freshly made or pickled on-site, and hot options include Thai stir-fries, noodles, and plenty of curries, along with Western baked or sauteed potatoes, ratatouille, crispy bacon rashers and juicy pork sausages.
Watermelon, orange juice, and apple with carrot juices are individually and sustainably bottled. The staff keep us caffeinated with frequent top-ups of well-made coffees and teas. The only problem with such a satisfying, scrumptious breakfast is that we are not hungry again until late afternoon, meaning we miss the chance to test more of the menu at the Raitalay Terrace.
Rayavadee – Krabi, Thailand Review
The fantastical, surreal beauty of Rayavadee Resort is matched only by their attention to detail and thoughtful and welcoming service. Despite visiting at the beginning of the rainy season, we are blessed with sunshine, sea breezes, and perfect weather for sunbathing and island hopping. While not technically in a tree, the pavilions feel like you are staying in a jungle island treehouse. The greenery and spectacular wildlife of the Railay Peninsula envelopes you in serotonin-induced happiness and peace. Rayavadee truly is a paradise.
Reasons to stay at Rayavadee: incredibly beautiful location with direct access to three beaches, striking limestone formations and lush tropical gardens; exceptional service; a jungle beach paradise like no other.
Rayavadee
214 Ao Nang, อำเภอ เมือง Krabi 81000, Thailand
+66 (02) 301 1861
www.rayavadee.com
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Look like a place to kick back and relaz.
Coffee is on and stay safe.
Very interesting place, one of a kind, beautiful!
Such a gorgeous place <3