Madeira Wine Portugal

Madeira Wine – Portugal, The Art of Patience

Madeira Wine – Portugal

Monica Tindall

The enchanting island of Madeira beckons with its natural beauty and extensive cultural heritage. Also known as the “Pearl of the Atlantic”, Madeira offers rugged cliffs, lush mountains and breathtaking views. But it’s the island’s world-famous wines and the stories behind them that we’ve come for. Madeira wines have centuries-old history and have become synonymous with the highest calibre. These fortified wines are made from grapes grown on steep, terraced vineyards and aged through a unique heating process, giving them remarkable depth of flavour and longevity. From the rich and sweet Malmsey to the dry and crisp Sercial, Madeira wines are a testament to the island’s craftsmanship and ability to offer wine lovers an exceptional sensory experience worldwide.

Madeira Wine Portugal
Steep Slopes & Small Family Plots Characterise the Madeira Wine Terraces

Madeira Viticultural Region

Madeira is a unique viticultural region known for its distinct vine landscape, characterised by steep terrain. The volcanic soil, coastal proximity, climate, and distinctive production process contribute to the unique qualities of Madeira wines. There are approximately 403 hectares of vineyards across the island and Porto Santo, dedicated to producing wines with Protected Designation of Origin (DOP Madeira and DOP Madeirense) and Protected Geographical Indication (IGP “Terras Madeirenses”). The leading viticulture councils are Câmara de Lobos with 149 ha, São Vicente with 111 ha, and Santana with 53 ha.

Madeira’s volcanic soils are predominantly basaltic, clayey, and acidic, rich in organic matter, magnesium, and iron but deficient in potassium. The microclimate of Madeira offers hot, humid summers and mild winters, with rainfall highest in autumn and winter. The landscape consists of slopes over 25%, featuring bench terraces called “poios” supported by basaltic stone walls. Some of the most breathtaking photos of Madeira feature these incredible terraces, reminiscent of the iconically lush and steep rice terraces in Asia.

Madeira Wine Portugal
High Altitudes & Rugged Terrains Fall Down to the Atlantic Ocean

Water for irrigation is collected from higher regions and distributed through canals known as “levadas,” covering approximately 2150 km, with 40 km in tunnels. Hikes along these levadas have become one of the top tourist activities on the island, ranging from quick trips over flat trails that take less than an hour to lengthy excursions that take days!

Madeira Wine Portugal
Trails Following the “Levadas” are Popular Hikes for Locals & Tourists Alike

The vine cultivation process in Madeira heavily relies on manual labour due to the small terraces and challenging terrain. Traditional vine conductions include “latada” or trellised vine, and “espaldeira” or espalier, with different heights and plant densities. Pruning occurs between late February and March, while harvesting occurs from late August to mid-October. We understand why meat, cheese, bread and hearty wheat soups have become a tradition – working on those slopes must take a lot of energy and strong legs!

Madeira Wine Portugal
Madeira Wine Vineyards

Vinification Process

Madeira wines undergo a meticulous vinification process. Upon arrival at the wine cellars, grapes are carefully sorted to assess their condition. After weighing and measuring their sugar content, a selection is made based on the desired wine type. The pressing yields a must, which undergoes fermentation and subsequent fortification. This involves halting fermentation by adding 96% Vol. vinous alcohol, with the degree of sweetness determining the final wine type: dry, medium dry, medium rich, or rich.

Following this stage, the wines are subject to two distinct production processes: “Estufagem” and “Canteiro.” In “Estufagem,” the wine is placed in stainless steel vats and heated using a serpentine system for at least three months. This simulates the historical “round trip” ship travel wine made to the Indies. Upon return from the journey, it was noticed that the remaining wine tasted better than when it departed. They accredited this to the heat changes passing through the tropics and aging that occurred onboard. Afterwards, the wine undergoes a resting period (“estágio”) of at least 90 days before bottling. “Estufagem” wines are typically released for sale no earlier than the 31st of October in the second year after harvesting.

In contrast, “Canteiro” wines are aged in casks, usually on the warmer upper floors of the cellars, for at least two years. These casks are positioned on wooden support beams called “canteiros.” During this oxidative aging process, air circulation produces wine evaporation, concentrating the flavours and producing intense and complex aromas. “Canteiro” wines are only commercially available after a minimum of three years from the 1st of January following the harvest.

H.M. Borges, Funchal
H.M. Borges, Funchal
Barbeito
Barbeito, Madeira

Grape Varieties

Madeira wine-making relies on several grape varieties with a strict accreditation process. The prominent varieties include Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvasia, and Tinta Negra. These grapes produce different types of Madeira wines classified by their sugar content. Traditionally you’ll find Sercial for dry or extra dry, Verdelho for medium dry, Boal for medium-rich, Malvasia for rich, and Terrantez for medium-dry or medium-sweet wines. These grape varieties contribute to the diverse range of flavours found in Madeira wines, offering versatility for pairings and purposes.

Madeira Wine Portugal
Grapes for Madeira Wine

Madeira Wine Designations

Madeira Wine carries various designations that help identify its different types and characteristics. Wines labelled with an indication of age, such as 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, and over 50 years old, meet specific quality standards. Traditional designations include Frasqueira or Garrafeira, aged for a minimum of 20 years in wood with exceptional quality; Colheita, aged for at least five years; and Canteiro, aged in wood for a minimum of two years without the heating process. Other designations such as Reserve, Old Reserve, Extra Reserve, Selected, Choice, Finest, Fine, Solera, and Rainwater indicate the quality, aging, and sweetness levels of Madeira Wine. Baumé measurements determine the degree of sweetness, from Dry to Extra-Dry, Medium Dry, Medium Sweet, and Sweet.

Barbeito
Barbeito, Riberio Real, Verdelho 20 Years

Drinking Madeira Wine

Madeira wine’s complex aromas and characteristics make it suitable for enjoyment any time of day or night. When paired with food, Madeira wine offers a wide range of possibilities. Madeira Sercial, with its light colour and full-bodied, perfumed profile, pairs well with olives, toasted almonds, caviar or salmon canapés, and fresh goat or sheep cheeses. Madeira Verdelho, golden and structured, complements consommé, onion soup, Serrano ham, mushrooms, and duck or goose pâté. Madeira Boal, medium-rich and fruity, harmonises with tropical fruits, cakes, and matured cheeses. Lastly, dark and aromatic Madeira Malvasia matches well with dried fruits, chocolate, Portuguese and blue cheeses, and even Havana cigars when in “Frasqueira” form.

H.M. Borges, Funchal
H.M. Borges, Funchal

Madeira Wine Producers

Madeira Island is home to eight renowned wine producers, each contributing to the island’s rich viticultural heritage. Madeira Vintners is the youngest of the producers, celebrating their first 10-year vintage this year. Henriques & Henriques, founded in 1850, offers a diverse portfolio, including single-harvest and colheita wines. H.M. Borges, founded in 1877, is known for its traditional winemaking methods. Barbeito, a boutique producer, focuses on small-batch, artisanal wines. Justino’s, Pereira D’Oliveira, Vinhos Barbusano, and Madeira Wine Company also contribute to the island’s winemaking excellence, offering a variety of unique and high-quality Madeira wines.

CAF – Madeira Vintners, CRL

Madeira Vintners are the youngest producers on the island, starting in 2012 with their first vintage released in 2013. 2023 will be a landmark year for the team as it will be their first 10-year vintage! Like most producers, they use both the “Estufagem” and “Canteiro” methods. However, one curiosity (besides being so young!) is that they embarked on a special project, sending several barrels to be aged on a naval ship, mirroring the original “round trip” ageing process that “Estufagem” was modelled after. While the company is under the bigger umbrella of CAF, an agricultural supplier, the young team have their own distinct identity and youthful approach.

cafmadeira.pt/madeira-vintners

Madeira Vintners
Lisandra Gonçalves – Winemaker, Madeira Vintners
Madeira Vintners
Madeira Vintners Wine Tasting
Madeira Vintners
Madeira Vintners, Boal 5 Years
Top gourmet tourist activities in the world - global enotourism
Madeira Vintners – Tinta Negra 2012

H.M. Borges Madeira

Established in 1877, HM Borges Sucrs. Lda is a leading Madeira wine producer, maintaining traditional values. Managed by the fourth-generation cousins, Elena and Isabel Borges, the company has a rich history and a commitment to quality. Located in Funchal’s city centre since 1924, their facilities occupy a century-old building, where we’re fortunate to sit down for a tasting with gracious and elegant Helena Borges.

Despite not owning vineyards, they purchase grapes from local growers, many they’ve had relationships with for over a century. They produce around 300 thousand bottles annually and stick to five classic grape varieties. HM Borges has recently expanded its presence in global markets with a renewed product image and institutional identity. While reaching out to new markets, they continue to stand strong in their traditional foundations. HM Borges represents a legacy of excellence and innovation in Madeira Wine production. A visit is not to be missed when staying in the capital, Funchal.

www.hmborges.com

H.M. Borges
H.M. Borges, Funchal
Madeira Wine Portugal
Elena Borges – Fourth Generation of the Family Company
H.M. Borges
Inside the Ageing Room
H.M. Borges
A Tasting of H.M. Borges Madeira Wine
H.M. Borges
H.M. Borges, Malvasia Sweet, 30 Years

Barbeito Madeira

Barbeito Madeira, established in 1946, is renowned for crafting exceptional Madeira wines. They honour tradition while embracing modern techniques, offering a diverse range of single-harvest varietals, unique blends, and limited-edition bottlings. Ricardo Diogo, the grandson of the founder, leads the company. Although Barbeito values its collection of old wines, they prioritize innovation, producing modern wines while preserving traditional methods. The Kinoshita family joined the company in 1991, investing in its modernization.

Since then, Barbeito has continuously pushed boundaries, leading to its success. In 2008, they built a cutting-edge winery with a traditional casks room, revolutionizing their image with bold labels. Barbeito also prepares particular lots that blend tradition and success. Notably, their work with the underappreciated Tinta Negra variety has yielded surprising results.

www.vinhosbarbeito.com/en

Barbeito visits and tastings, best bottles
View from Barbeito’s Tasting Room
Madeira Wine Portugal
Tasting Across Some Key Barbeito Labels
Barbeito visits and tastings, best bottles
Barbeito – 40 Malvasia
Madeira Wine Portugal
Barbeito 50, Tres Amigos
Barbeito visits and tastings, best bottles
2001 Malvasia Candida

Henriques & Henriques

Established in 1850, Henriques & Henriques is a renowned Madeira winemaker in Câmara de Lobos. With picturesque vineyards stretching across stunning terraced slopes, they are known for their exceptional craftsmanship and a wide variety of outstanding Madeira wines, including the acclaimed Verdelho and Terrantez. The company’s roots trace back to João Gonçalves Henriques, who founded the company and passed it on to his sons after his death in 1912, giving rise to the name “Henriques & Henriques.”

Despite challenges such as Oidium and Phylloxera diseases in the late 19th century, the family persevered, and in 1925, they began exporting their products after consolidating their assets into a company. Following the passing of the Henriques family members, the company was handed down to close collaborators and friends who continued the tradition and technological advancements. Henriques & Henriques is not only a producer and exporter but also boasts private vineyards (the only Madeira company to own their own vineyards), ensuring the production of high-quality grapes like Verdelho and Terrantez. They also maintain strong relationships with other wine growers.

In 1992, the company embarked on an expansion program, constructing a new winery and vinification centre to meet market demands while preserving their nearly 200-year-old family tradition. As the largest independent producer and shipper of Madeira, Henriques & Henriques stands out with their commitment to quality and ownership of vineyards, distinguishing them from other shippers. Under the leadership of Master Blender Humberto Jardím, they have been innovative in both product development and design, earning recognition and awards for their exceptional wines.

henriquesehenriques.pt

Madeira Wine Portugal
This is Where My Interest Escalated from a Casual Flirtation with Madeira Wine to the Consideration of a More Enduring Love – Henriques & Henriques Single Harvest 1998 Medium-Rich
Madeira Wine Portugal
Henriques & Henriques, Verdelho 2007
Madeira Wine Portugal
Henriques & Henriques, Boal 2009
Madeira Wine Portugal
Henriques & Henriques, Malvasia 2001
Henriques & Henriques
Henriques & Henriques, Terrantez, 20 Years Old
Henriques & Henriques
Henriques & Henriques’ Master Blender Humberto Jardím & Boal 1997
Henriques & Henriques
Henriques & Henriques Verdelho 1991

Pereira D’Oliveira

Pereira D’Oliveira (Vinhos), Lda. is a family-owned company specialising in producing, marketing, and exporting Madeira wine. Established in the 1970s, the company is managed by Luís D’Oliveira and Filipe D’Oliveira, representing five and six generations, respectively. The business boasts six integrated producers and exporters of Madeira Wine, including two founded by ancestors and four from other families. The company has a large stock of Old Madeira Wines due to previous generations’ commercial policy of keeping most of the annual production for maturation and investment. The company offers a range of wines, including different aged classifications, harvests, and reserve wines, which are sold locally and internationally under the name “D’OLIVEIRAS.”

Justino’s Madeira Wines

Justino’s Madeira Wines, S.A. is a long-established producer and exporter of Madeira wine, dating back to 1870. It was initially a family enterprise based in Funchal, Madeira, but in 1993, it was internationalised by partnering with a French wine and spirit distribution group. The company built a modern winery combining traditional methods with advanced technology to enhance winemaking. Justino’s Madeira wines have gained popularity across Europe and in countries like the United States, Canada, Brazil, and Japan. The company holds one of the largest stocks of Madeira wine on the island, including high-quality wines aged in oak casks, catering to discerning consumers. Justino’s Madeira Wines attributes its success to blending expertise, respect for traditional winemaking techniques, and a commitment to innovation. As an international company, it aims to offer premium products while preserving its historical, traditional, and authentic character.

www.justinosmadeira.com

Madeira Wine Company

Established in 1913, Madeira Wine Company is a market leader in producing and exporting premium Madeira Wine. Influential families formed it, including Blandy, Leacock, Miles, and Cossart Gordon. In the late 1970s, the Blandy family gained control and sought an international distribution network. They partnered with the Symington family, renowned for their Port Wine expertise, to boost sales. The Symingtons’ global distribution network and commercial knowledge significantly contributed to the company’s growth. Since 1989, the partnership between the Symingtons and the Blandy family has focused on enhancing production methods and strengthening the distribution network for their acclaimed brands: Blandy’s, Cossart Gordon, Leacock’s, and Miles. Madeira Wine Company has received prestigious international awards, acknowledging its commitment to quality and excellence in recent years.

www.madeirawinecompany.com

Madeira Wine Portugal
Rugged Wine Terraced Landscapes of Madeira

Madeira Wine

Madeira, with its enchanting landscapes and centuries-old winemaking tradition, is a haven for wine enthusiasts seeking exceptional fortified wines. Each of the eight esteemed Madeira wine producers offers a unique perspective and a remarkable range of wines, capturing the essence of the island’s terroir and heritage.

Whether you savour the sweetness of Malmsey, indulge in the elegance of Sercial, or explore the complex nuances of Terrantez, Madeira wines are sure to leave an indelible impression. History, craftsmanship, and passion intertwine to create wines that stand the test of time. Saúde to the enduring legacy of Madeira wine!

Find more recommendations for gourmet travel to Portugal here and stay up-to-date with the latest gourmet and travel recommendations here and here.

One Comment

  1. Another place with stunning views!

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