Tipografia Funchal x Quinta do Sanguinhal – Wine Dinner
Monica Tindall
Hot off the heels of an incredibly delicious and informative tour of Lisbon’s Wine Region, we’re in Madeira for four nights. It seems good fortune is following us as our trip coincides with a Companhia Agrícola do Sanguinhal wine dinner (a winery we visited just days before) at Tipografia, one of Funchal’s (the capital of Madeira) top restaurants.
In the charming setting of the Castanheiro Boutique Hotel, Chef Maurício Gonçalves works behind the scenes presenting a menu to pair with the Lisbon wines. Meanwhile, the managing director of Companhia Agrícola do Sanguinhal, Carlos João Pereira da Fonseca, graces guests with an eloquent introduction to each wine.
Guest Arrival & Sottal Leve White Wine 2022
A lovely patio in the Castanheiro Boutique Hotel serves as the holding point for guests to enjoy an aperitif before the official five-course dinner begins. Small bites are passed around as the hotel and wine team greet guests with the warmth and kindness the Portuguese are renowned for.
We’re refreshed by a well-chilled glass of Sottal Leve White Wine – Lisbon 2022, a blend of muscatel, arinto and vital grapes. Picked by hand, slightly before full maturation, the wine benefits from crisp acidity and is what the Portuguese classify as a “leve” or “light” wine, coming in under 10% in alcohol content. It’s perfect for warm weather and when you’d like to enjoy more than a few glasses with friends.
Amuse Bouche x Quinta de S. Francisco White 2021
Now seated in the well-dressed dining room, the culinary journey begins with an amuse bouche of Mussel and Limpets Foam (a shellfish typical to this region) with Fresh Fennel, perfectly paired with the Quinta de S. Francisco White 2021 from Óbidos. The blend of Vital, Fernão Pires, and Arinto grapes produces a pale straw-yellow wine with delicate aromas of lemon, lime and jasmine. Its refreshing and slightly acidic sensation complements the seafood dish wonderfully. The wine’s acidity slices through the creamy sauce, preparing the palate for the next course.
Starter x Quinta das Cerejeiras Rosé 2019
The starter features a delectable Quail on Alheira Biscuit and a mini Grilled Romaine Lettuce with Orange Reduction. It’s accompanied by Quinta das Cerejeiras Rosé 2019 from Lisboa, a blend of Castelão and Moscatel-roxo grapes. It’s a pale pink hue with a berry and floral nose. The palate presents a refreshing and fruity experience, enhancing the citrus in the dish. The subtle hint of acidity in the wine balances the sweetness of the quail and the orange reduction, creating a pleasant interplay of flavours.
Fish Course x Quinta das Cerejeiras Grande Reserva Branco Óbidos 2021
Two traditional Portuguese sea creatures feature in the fish course, Octopus and Cod in Fish Cream. They’re seasoned with sea parsley (found along cool coastlines with a flavour of herbs and celery) and fabulously-hued (blue-violet) Vitelotte potatoes in two textures. The wine mate, Quinta das Cerejeiras Grande Reserva White Óbidos 2021, a blend of Chardonnay, Arinto, and Vital, proves to be a favourite of the evening. Its fruity and complex aroma, featuring pineapple, mango, passionfruit, jasmine, and honeysuckle notes, creates a harmonious pairing with the plump seafood. The full-bodied and velvety palate of the wine with mineral undertones provides a luscious companion to the octopus and cod, leaving a refreshing persistent conclusion.
Palate Cleanser
Strawberry and mint sorbet serves as a palate cleanser with its smooth texture, gentle sweetness, and a hint of tang, complemented by super fine, almost creamy granules.
Meat Course x Quinta das Cerejeiras Grande Reserva Tinto, Óbidos
The meat course showcases the chef’s skill in considering texture, taste, aromas, plating and wine pairing with his Veal Cheek Stewed in Madeira Red Wine. The superbly tender meat sits atop a pumpkin risotto (with just the rice amount of chew) with smoked cheese (addictive). The Quinta das Cerejeiras Grande Reserva Red Óbidos, a blend of Castelão, Touriga Nacional and Aragonez grapes, exhibits ripe red fruit notes intertwined with vanilla and chocolate, thanks to its barrel aging. The soft tannins and balanced acidity of the wine harmonise with the rich meat recipe – magnificent!
Dessert x Quinta de S. Francisco Licoroso Sweet – 20 Years
A uniquely plated Tiramisu is presented in a chocolate cup adorned with edible flowers and fresh fruit for dessert. Quinta de S. Francisco Licoroso Sweet – 20 Years from Estremadura, with its impressive fruity bouquet and harmonious sweetness, provides a delightful ending to the culinary experience. The wine’s abundant flavours of dried fruits and honey mingle with gentle nuances of spice and oak, elevating the indulgent tiramisu to new heights.
Quinta de São Francisco XO Aguardente Vínica Velha
To conclude, coffee or tea with petit fours are offered, but we’re more than satisfied with the digestive brandy alone. The Quinta de São Francisco Aguardente Vínica Velha – XO, a dark amber brandy, wafts dried fruit, spice and jasmine notes to the nose. Aged for over ten years in French oak barrels, it’s intense and full-bodied with balanced acidity. More dried fruit and spice are in the mouth, alongside a whisper of vanilla and chocolate. It culminates in a long, lingering finish, providing a warm and satisfying conclusion to a memorable evening.
The Castanheiro Wine Dinner at Tipografia undoubtedly left a lasting impression, thanks to Chef Maurício Gonçalves’ specially curated menu and the distinguished wines presented by Carlos João Pereira da Fonseca, managing director of Companhia Agrícola do Sanguinhal. It’s been an unforgettable evening that has only deepened our endearment for Portuguese food, wine and culture.
Quinta do Sanguinhal
2540-216 Bombarral, Portugal
+351 262 609 199
[email protected]
[email protected]
https://shop.sanguinhal.pt/
Tipografia – Castanheiro Boutique Hotel
Rua do Castanheiro, N31, Funchal, Madeira, Portugal – Link to Google Map
[email protected]
www.castanheiroboutiquehotel.com/
+351 291 200 100
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Food looks great, love the presentation. Can’t remember the last time I had quail.
I’m not sure what fish cream is.
Coffee is on, and stay safe.