Chō Chã Foodstore - Modern Malaysian Restaurant

Chō Chã Foodstore – Modern Malaysian Restaurant, Chinatown KL

Words: Theresa Hogan Leahy
Photos: Monica Tindall

Chō Chã Foodstore is a restaurant that I’m hesitant to review too enthusiastically for fear I’ll never be able to reserve a table again. This hidden gem has been a culinary fixture for seven years, and I had the privilege of being invited with The Yum List to sample their latest menu.

Tucked away in the heart of KL, around the corner from the Four Points by Sheraton Kuala Lumpur, Chinatown, and across the road from the vegan bakery La Gula, Chō Chã Foodstore is more than just a restaurant; it’s a gateway to the past. Formerly known as the Mah Lian Hotel, it retains the charm of those bygone days. As you step inside, the old hotel’s ambience blends seamlessly with the lush greenery surrounding a courtyard, with a retractable roof to fend off unexpected rain.

We were welcomed by Prem and Anna, who served us Sencha and Raw Pu-er Cold Brew Tea (RM 22), assuring us of its health benefits.

Meeting the culinary masterminds behind the scenes was a pleasure. Head Chef Mui Kai Quan and Chef de Cuisine Nazri Bin Gapur share a commitment to sustainability, making their mark not only by sourcing local ingredients but also by minimising food waste.

Chō Chã Foodstore Menu

Embracing the mantra that the freshest ingredients are often local and seasonal, the culinary journey began with Ulam Lemang (RM 24) and Stingray on Toast (RM 18). The former, a fusion of coconut rice, fermented shrimp, and wild mango puree wrapped in sweet potato leaves, was a flavourful delight. The Stingray on Toast showcased fish floss on crispy coconut bread with caramelised onions and asam pedas mayo, a compelling blend of sour and spicy.

Complementing the flavours was the biodynamic white wine La Gascogne d’Alain Brumont, Gros Manseng-Sauvignon (RM 190). The Gros Manseng grape supplies freshness, balance and a lingering finish, while the Sauvignon Blanc contributes to its floral, citrus nose.

Modern Malaysian Restaurant Chinatown KL — Ulam Lemang – Chō Chã Foodstore

Vegetarian Options

Chō Chã Foodstore accommodates various dietary preferences, and the vegetarian offerings are top-class, exemplified by the following two dishes. The Slow-cooked Eggplant (RM 26) was coated in a luscious layering of shallots, tomato, chilli, and crispy lentils whose texture contrasted with the fleshy vegetable. Meanwhile, the Grilled Beans (RM 28) emerged as a medley of four-angled beans, petai (stinky) beans, okra, and asparagus atop pucuk manis (*Curious fact: sweet leaf can only be safely consumed well-cooked; eaten raw, it can lead to irreversible lung disease!) hummus embellished with wild garlic. This dish was healthy and wholesome, and kale stems, often discarded, found a second life as a pickled crunch, much to our delight.

Seafood

I admit to not liking octopus as my past experiences have found it chewy and rather tasteless, but not so with the Kudat Octopus (RM 32). Challenging my preconceptions, this tender octopus rested on a herbed egg-white custard, creating a balanced blend of flavours and textures. The pièce de résistance was the Baked Whole Fish in Banana Leaves (RM 92), both in aesthetics and taste. The Wild Grouper Flower Fish caught off Malaysia’s West Coast was adorned with Kerabu ginger flowers and accompanied by fermented vegetables, resulting in a balanced mix of sweet, bitter, and sour notes.

Sabahan Recipes

Tapioca derived from palm tree starch is known as ambuyat, and it appeared in three manifestations in the dish Ambuyat 3 Kinds (RM 36). As a non-lover of durian, I was happy to have my mind changed with Ambuyat – Burnt. The fermented durian gave it a smoky taste, and I might revisit the durian stand after all. Ambuyat – Poached contained snapper and turmeric fish broth in its tapioca folds. Ambuyat – Pan-seared was a big hit with my fellow diners who loved the eel and crisped wild ginger from Borneo.

Duck & Wine, Feeling Fine

Before savouring the Dry-aged Duck Breast (RM 118), Prem presented the recommended companion wine: J. Bouchon, Pais Viejo Old Vine from the Maule Valley in Chile (RM 210). This wine is harvested from 100-year-old gobelet vines; its juicy sour cherry notes perfectly complemented the duck. Marinated in sweet potato leaves, the dish recalled the opening notes of our starter Ulam Lemang, and with the fried turmeric leaves in an earthy turmeric sauce, it was yet another highlight in this modern Malaysian cuisine odyssey.

Dessert Menu Chō Chã Foodstore

Two delectable desserts concluded our culinary journey at Chō Chã Foodstore. First, Tapai (RM 30), an ice cream combining fermented glutinous rice and coconut-lime ricotta, followed by Bahulu (RM 28). Bahula is Chef Nazri’s reinvention of tirimasu Malaysian-style. It has palm sugar from Sarawak, elevating Madeleine-like biscuits resting on coffee foam and burnt sabayon. It was exciting to experience such an iconic Italian dish with an inventive Malaysian twist.

Chō Chã Foodstore Jalan Sultan Kuala Lumpur — Bahulu

Chō Chã Foodstore Review

Beyond the wonderful tastes and textures of the food, what truly stands out about Chō Chã Foodstore is its celebration of Malaysia’s bountiful offerings and unwavering dedication to sustainability. With every dish, you taste their respect for local ingredients, their commitment to zero waste, and their unique Borneo perspective on Malaysian flavours. If you’re looking for a taste of modern Malaysia, Chō Chã Foodstore isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a gastronomic love song to Malaysia’s past, present, and future – the embodiment of modern Malaysia in every bite.

Reasons to visit Chō Chã Foodstore: unique and charming setting; perfect location to bring visitors, spend a date night or meet up with friends soaking up the cool vibes; an exceptional menu of modern Malaysian cuisine (Mon says this might be their best line-up yet!); well-chosen wine list; lovely staff.