La Bodega de Ola by Martín Berasategui -Bilbao
Monica Tindall
With an impressive track record of twelve MICHELIN stars and two restaurants boasting three MICHELIN stars, Martín Berasategui has cemented his position as a culinary virtuoso. Recognised as Spain’s most celebrated chef, Berasategui has bestowed upon us yet another gem to savour – La Bodega de Ola by Martín Berasategui, in the heart of Bilbao. Often dubbed “the man with the Midas touch,” Berasategui continues to weave his magic, inviting us to indulge in this addition to his treasury.
Berasategui is a maestro of Basque cuisine, renowned for his innovative use of seasonal ingredients and pioneering approach to molecular gastronomy. His culinary prowess has consistently earned his restaurants a place among the world’s best, playing a pivotal role in propelling Spain onto the global gastronomic stage.
La Bodega de Ola by Martín Berasategui in the Tayko Boutique Hotel in Bilbao is the companion to its One MICHELIN-starred sibling located upstairs. It’s a more casual dining experience than some of Berasategui’s other restaurants, but it still offers the same high level of cuisine and service. The restaurant has a warm and inviting atmosphere, with exposed brick walls, wooden beams and racks and racks of wine. Our gracious servers, Adriana and Aitor, embody the essence of Spanish hospitality, guiding us through the menu with patience and insight while helping us navigate the intricacies of the Spanish and Euskara languages.
La Bodega de Ola Menu
La Bodega de Ola embraces the concept of shared dining with dishes designed for two. So, come with a partner or else arrive with a hearty appetite! At the heart of Spanish cuisine lies the purity of its raw ingredients, and this philosophy is paramount here. The Tasting Menu (EUR 62) is the best place to start for first-time diners. The chef-selected line-up captures the essence of the concept, and we’re of the firm opinion that we’re usually better off leaving the decision-making to the chef. Wine pairing can be included by topping up to EUR 80 or upgrading to the sommelier pairing for EUR 97.
Aperitif
A faultless aperitif, Yllera Privée Brut Castilla y León, is produced just hours from Bilbao. The sparkling blend of Verdejo and Chardonnay is made with the traditional method and aged in Mudejar caves. It’s enticing with a complex bouquet of green apple, citrus, and delicate toasty notes – a fitting prelude to our lunch.
The Tasting Menu takes flight with a selection of bread and snacks. The Rustic Sourdough Bread, reminiscent of a mini damper, tempts with its crusty exterior and spongy middle. Accompanying it, Arbequina olive oil from a nearby bodega in Rioja has excellent astringency reaching to the back of the mouth and almost tickling the throat, a sign of a high-quality virgin press.
Amuse Bouche
The amuse bouche – “Grillo” and “Gazpacho of Piparra (peppers)” – comes appropriately in the form of pinxtos (tapas typical of the region). “Grillo” is said to be the first pinxto served in Bilbao, dating back to the 1920s. A toothpick binds the medley of potato, lettuce, onion, and green olives stuffed with anchovies and vinaigrette. At the same time, shot glasses brim with vibrant green hues of the gazpacho, a refreshing chilled summer soup.
At the Centre of the Table
The Casalba Iberian Coppa is a generous platter of cured meats, even when shared between two. Cured meat lovers will be in heaven at the layer upon layer of cured Iberian marbled lomo, which rests on a large round of flatbread that looks surprisingly similar to the folds of roti canai. Tomato carpaccio brings the dish together in one fulfilling mouthful. The last drops of our bubbly go sinfully well with the fat of the lomo, mirroring its butteriness while also cutting through the lard.
We move on to white wine from the same producer as the first sparkling, Yllera, Cantosán Verdejo Viñas Viejas 2022, Rueda DO. It has an intense and complex nose, with aromas of green apple, grapefruit, lemon zest, lychee, and a hint of honeysuckle. The palate is dry, fresh, and crisp, with a medium body and a long finish.
All of the wines in this pairing are very reasonably priced. This does not mean that they are of poor quality. Quite the contrary, it celebrates the high quality of regional Spanish wines. Everyone in Spain drinks wine and expects it to be good. While many premium, expensive labels are available, you can find delicious wine at almost any price point. The wine pairing at La Bodega de Ola proves this point.
Next, the Salmon and Red Prawn Salad is finished with a spoon of olive oil and freshly ground pepper as it’s delivered. It resembles a Russian salad in that it is made with mayonnaise, potatoes, and eggs. However, the seafood is premium, punctuated by Carabinero prawn mayo. Fresh pieces of salmon are tossed through as part of the package, while the striking red Carabinero prawn pieces break the mono-colour top. Italian Sargo bread, crisp and paper-thin, is an excellent contrast in texture to the soft, creamy salad.
We realised we were in trouble when the Cod Omelette arrived, and we hadn’t even started on our main courses yet. I never learn my lesson – I should hold off on the bread! I know I have a carb addiction, but it’s hard to resist when the olive oil is so good – even more so when there’s a house-baked loaf of sourdough to mop it all up.
Anyway, the cod omelette was a revelation. It’s a dish that combines a speciality of the north – salted cod fish – with a traditional Spanish tapa – potato tortilla. The golden-brown omelette looks like a typical Spanish tortilla on the outside, but when we slice in, we find a casing holding a mix of codpieces, caramelised onion, and broth. Like a Taiwanese soup dumpling, the liquid spilled out upon breakage.
The Menu
With the global natural wine trend in full swing, we’re excited to try a local wine made under such methods, the Unfiltered Balea, Bizkaiko, Txakolina, 2022. This natural wine, named after the Basque word for “whale,” offers crisp citrus, fresh minerality, and light stone fruit essence.
The flavours take an intense leap with the following recipe, Tomato Stuffed with Begi Haundi (squid). This dish showcases a plump tomato gently peeled and oven-glazed, enhancing its natural goodness. Inside, the filling bursts with flavour, with a delicate sweetness attributed to the caramelised onions. Adding to the vibrant medley, a lively green parsley emulsion dances alongside delicate traces of squid ink, contrasting the tomato’s radiant red. A deep-fried squid ring and a sprinkling of chives add a crunch and freshness to the dish.
The main, Iberian Pork, is served with a red onion compote and creamy spring onion foam. I don’t have a sweet tooth, so I enjoy the meat with just a touch of sea salt. Hubby, on the other hand, appreciates the sweeter notes of the sauces, which balance the savoury flavours of the pork.
We take a wine from the sommelier pairing, and it’s a fantastic mate to the meat. The 2011 Viña Bosconia Reserva from R. López de Heredia – Viña Tondonia winery, a classic red wine from DOC Rioja. This blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Graciano grapes from old vineyards undergoes traditional vinification and ages for six years in used American oak barrels, followed by five more years in the bottle. The result is a smooth and elegant wine with intense fruit flavours and good acidity, making it a perfect match for red meat, game, or mature cheeses.
La Bodega de Ola Dessert
We round off La Bodega de Ola’s Tasting Menu with a treat that hits the spot – Iced Yoghurt and Vanilla paired with mango and passion fruit sorbet. The combo brings in a burst of freshness and a more-ish tang, playing off the yoghurt and fruit. It’s not heavy or overly indulgent; instead, it leaves us feeling light, refreshed, and satisfied.
Lastly, the petit fours are delicious treats, including dark chocolate truffle, homemade gummy jellies, and a shot of Malibu coconut rum with pineapple. The gummy jellies are soft and well-textured, but I find them to be too sweet for my taste. The shot of Malibu is a fruity reminder of the tropics, and the sugar-coated gummy melt in the mouth. However, the dark chocolate truffle is my favourite. It is velvety smooth, mildly sweet, and has the perfect bitter finish.
We wind up the meal with a glass of Sauternes, Cuvee 79, 2019, from Domaine J. et E. David, a family-owned winery in Sauternes. The label’s nod to element 79, gold, reflects the wine’s lovely golden hue. This sweet wine hails from France’s AOC Sauternes region. It is crafted entirely from Semillon grapes and aged in oak barrels for 18 months. Aromas of tropical fruits, candied notes, orange zest, apricot, honey, and vanilla, follow with a balanced and fresh palate. Its lively acidity adds a pleasant contrast to its sweetness.
La Bodega de Ola Review
From shared dining experiences to meticulously crafted dishes, the restaurant captures the essence of Basque cuisine’s tradition and innovation. Guided by gracious servers and complemented by thoughtfully curated wine pairings, La Bodega de Ola is a celebration of flavour, history, and the artistry that defines Berasategui’s legacy.
Reasons to visit La Bodega de Ola by Martín Berasategui: a chance to dine in a Martín Berasategui restaurant without the price tag or waiting list of one of his three MICHELIN Star kitchens; a contemporary interpretation of food from the Basque region; casual setting; great service; fantastic local wine list.
* La Bodega by Ola Tasting Menu is priced at EURO 62 per person. Wine pairing can be included for EUR 80 or upgraded to the sommelier pairing for EUR 97.
La Bodega de Ola by Martín Berasategui
Hotel Tayko Bilbao
Calle Ribera, 13 – 48005 Bilbao, Bizkaia, Spain
[email protected]
+34 944 652 069
La Bodega de Ola by Martín Berasategui Opening Hours
BREAKFAST: Monday to Friday from 07:30 to 11:00. Saturdays, Sundays and holidays from 08:00 to 11:00
BAR: Every day from 11:00 to 23:30*
* Kitchen closes at 22:30
RESTAURANT:
Lunch: From Thursday to Sunday, 13:30 to 15:30
Dinner: Every day from 20:30 to 22:30
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All it needs would be white table linen to make this a classy joint, ideal for fine dining.