Tempos Vega Sicilia – The Golden Ticket
Monica Tindall
Much like Charlie’s golden ticket to Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory, a coveted invitation to Vega Sicilia unlocks the magic of Spanish winemaking. Not open to the public, only a privileged few have seen the inside of the winery and heard first-hand the tales of exceptional care that goes into making some of the world’s most sought-after wine.
We’re some of the lucky ones to get that golden pass, and our visit to Vega Sicilia is a journey into tradition and craftsmanship, allowing us to witness the storied history and commitment to making exceptional wines. It culminates in a wine-tasting, the apex of the appointment, where we try the legendary Único and three others from these masterful hands. We even learn of an exciting new project … keep reading!
Tempos Vega Sicilia
Located in Valbuena de Duero, Spain, Tempos Vega Sicilia is widely regarded as one of the greatest wine producers in the world, and its top label, Único, is one of Spain’s most expensive and in-demand.
The winery was founded by Eloy Lecanda y Chaves in 1864, who planted French varietals within the estate’s 985 hectares of land. It passed through multiple hands over the century, and in 1982 Venezuelan Hans Neumann sold it to the Álvarez family, who, over several generations, have been running it ever since.
Currently, the 220 hectares of planted land are dominated by Tempranillo, with 57 different plots and 19 different soil classifications. This is just the first sign of the meticulous detail we find in the visit. Everything here is measured, calculated and reported on. It’s a fine science, and the team reigns supreme in their work. All that can be done to control and understand the components of winemaking is executed, and a vision for the future is overwhelmingly evident. From planting cork trees that only future generations decades from now will benefit from to analysing the DNA of their rootstock, heaters to blow warm air around grapes if in danger of frost, and having their own on-site cooper (cooper master José Enrique is a fourth generation working here), this is an experiment that gets top marks.
Our tour gives insight into the painstaking attention given to even the most minute detail. You’d be forgiven for thinking from the description that it’s a sterile environment. However, while the precision in performance is surgical, the integration of beauty, both natural and manufactured, is celebrated throughout. It’s a culmination of science, the highest form of art and an unwavering commitment to excellence no matter the cost. Art pieces are woven through the property, and the estate even boasts a Japanese garden. All are impeccably placed and scrupulously engineered.
Wine Tasting
Our visit concludes with tasting two wines from Vega Sicilia and two from their Hungarian vineyards, Tokaj-Oremus. Their other holdings are Ribera del Duero’s Alión, Bodegas Pintia in Toro, a partnership with the Rothschild in Benjamín de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia in the Rioja region, Oremus in Tokaji Hungary, and the newest project, Bodegas y Viñedos Deiva in the Rías Baixas region of Galicia. The latter has not yet released any vintages, but the prediction is for two Albariños starting in late 2023.
This is where we skip to the good part, which is really a relative term because there are no bad parts in Vega Sicilia.
The Legendary Único – Tempos Vega Sicilia
The first vintage of Único, one of the globe’s most-famed wines, was produced in 1915 and quickly gained a reputation for its quality and complexity. The success of Único is due to several factors, including the unique terroir of the Ribera del Duero region, the meticulous winemaking practices of the Vega Sicilia team, and the long ageing process that the wine undergoes.
The Ribera del Duero region, located in the north-central part of Spain, is characterised by its harsh climate, with extreme temperature variations between day and night. This continental climate and poor, limestone-rich soils are ideal for growing Tempranillo grapes, the primary grape used in Único. The conditions contribute to the production of concentrated, full-bodied wines with excellent ageing potential (experts say between 40 to 60 years and some collectors have even kept Único bottles that are close to 100!).
Único is only produced in the best vintages, and the average age of the vines used in the wine is over 50. Furthermore, Único is one of the longest-aged reds in the world, spending a minimum of 10 years in a combination of oak barrels and bottles before it’s released. The wine can be enjoyed young, but it has the potential to develop for decades. The long ageing process develops the wine’s complex flavours and aromas. The wine is typically full-bodied with black fruit, spices, tobacco notes, and a lengthy finish. These characteristics become more integrated over time, and the wine becomes even more elegantly complex.
We taste the 2013 Vega Sicilia Único, which is subtle, elegant, and complex with a polished nose of poached plums, dark cherries, tea leaves, graphite, milk chocolate, and caramel. It is medium-to-full-bodied with firm yet creamy tannins. It is caressing, seductive, and ripe but with underlying freshness.
In addition to Único, Vega Sicilia also produces two other wines: Valbuena 5º and Reserva Especial. While Valbuena 5º is a more approachable wine than Único, it is still aged for five years and made with the same exceptional care. The 2018 Vega Sicilia Valbuena 5º offers a deep and complex profile with fresh black and blue fruit notes accented by floral, peppery, cedar, sweet spice, and vanilla undertones. Its palate presents a dusty, juicy character with mealy, powdery tannins beautifully interwoven with the fruit. This vintage showcases a fresher, more Atlantic-influenced aspect, benefiting from a stricter selection and enhanced wood influence. James Suckling and Wine Advocate both give it 96 points and it has received esteemed comments from Jancis Robinson. Suitable for immediate enjoyment or extended ageing (experts say up to 25 years), its complexity unfolds gracefully over time.
The Único Reserva Especial, on the other hand, is mythical in reputation. It’s a blend of THREE of the best Único vintages – the oldest gives structure, the youngest contributes fresh fruitiness, and the middle-aged gives body. The process of combining wine from different years is a tradition kept alive from Spain’s past, before introducing French techniques and single vintage wines. Although the Único Reserva Especial has been in production for nearly a century, it’s only in the past two decades that the labels have clearly communicated which vintages are in the bottle. Consider yourself very fortunate if you get your hands on one.
Vega Sicilia’s Hungarian Winey – Tokaji-Oremus
The two whites we taste come from Tempo Vega Sicilia’s Hungarian vineyards, Tokaji-Oremus.
The Oremus Furmint 2019 Mandolás is a dry white wine from the Tokaj region of Hungary. This is uncommon for the area, as Tokaj is more famous for its sweet wines. The wine is made from Furmint grapes, known for their acidity and minerality. The 2019 vintage was good for Tokaj, and the Mandolás wine is no exception. It is pale yellow and has a nose of macadamia nuts, lime, and sliced green apple. The wine is fresh, acidic, and has good length. It has a little wood in the finish but is not overpowering. The wine is dry with mild spice. It has a fresh, tangy, and vibrant flavour with mouthwatering acidity that carries the nutty palate. It would be great paired with marinated or torched sushi, a dish with freshness but more depth.
The 2016 Oremus Tokaji Aszú, 5 Puttonyos, on the other hand, is a delicious dessert wine from the same region. It’s also made from Furmint grapes, but they have been infected with noble rot, which gives the wine its sweetness and complexity. The wine is aged for two years in Hungarian oak barrels, adding flavour and texture. It has aromas of apricot and honey and balanced sweetness and acidity. This wine can be enjoyed immediately but also aged up to about 10 years, so why not purchase a case and analyse its development annually? It’s perfect for pairing with desserts or foie gras.
Tempos Vega Sicilia Winery Visit
And, just like that, our dream visit concluded. Like Charlie, we were awestruck by the experience, with an even deeper appreciation for winemaking’s art and absolute respect for the Tempos Vega Sicilia’s team’s unwavering dedication and surgical-like precision in production from grape to cask to bottle.
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