Dolce Vita Menu, Nexus Bangsar South
Words: Jacob Weber
Photos: Rich Callahan
La Dolce Vita. “A life that is full of pleasure and luxury.”
Whoever came up with that was probably sitting comfortably, satisfyingly stuffed and perhaps two glasses of good red wine down, at Dolce Vita in Bangsar South.
(The menu says this place was inspired by the legendary 1960 satirical drama film. I’ve never seen it, so I’m sticking with my version.)
This traditional Italian ristorante complements the sleek, shiny urban boardwalk area at Nexus, occupying a primo spot in the middle of the action.
Owners Mikelian (Keli) and Luca — the signore behind Portofino, a KL classic — are not interested in fusion food, Italian favourites with a tropical twist, or any other such nonsense.
This is proper Italian food, from proper Italy. Most things on the menu, from cheese to rice to coffee to pasta to tomatoes, are flown in — on Air Italia, I presume. That includes Italian wine and beer, of course.
It’s a true taste of Italy, and a lot of that comes down to Executive Chef Matteo, who comes from the stunning Cinque Terre area on the Italian Riviera. Chef Matteo has a Michelin-starred background, with experience in some very fine dining restaurants in Milan, London and Amsterdam. We’re very grateful that he has found his way here, and even more so that he completely buys into Dolce Vita’s vision for genuine and authentic Italian classics with regional recipes and local secrets.
The décor and the atmosphere lend their own traditional touch, with big wine bottle racks and a pizza oven in full view of the dining room. It’s classy, cosy and comfortable at the same time, which sounds about right for an Italian place serving food of this quality.
Dolce Vita Menu
We open with a Carpaccio di Manzo (RM56), with thinly sliced Black Angus tenderloin and Grana Padano cheese on a light, bright and beautiful bed of rocket salad and capers and cherry tomatoes, with a lovely lemon dressing and balsamic vinegar. Everything is well-balanced, and it’s a great way to settle down and get started.
Seafood fans will love the Polpo alla Ligure (RM58). Octopus can be chewy and rubbery, but this Mediterranean octopus is tender and juicy, with spring potatoes to make this starter even more satisfying.
Pizza is a pride and joy here, so we happily oblige Keli’s recommendations. The Napoli (RM38) is simple but stunning, with the quality (not quantity) of ingredients doing the talking. The “leopard spots” — burnt bits — show that the dough has been aerated and prepared properly, so you know it’s the real deal.
Fresh burrata is flown in from Italy every week, and one of its final destinations is the Burrata Pesto Pizza (RM64). There’s a little chef’s hat symbol on the menu next to this one because this recipe is from Chef Matteo’s hometown, and it’s prepared with love. The homemade pesto is outstanding, the burrata is creamy, and the crust is chewy and crispy in all the right areas.
Both pizzas — and I’m sure every pizza on the menu — go exceptionally well with Portofino’s famous in-house hot sauce, which has a pleasant kick and a lingering heat. Apply liberally, and keep a slice of Burrata Pesto in reserve when you need to absorb some spice. Trust me, I’m a professional.
Chef Matteo is beaming with pride as the Trofie al Pesto Genovese (RM48) appears. This handmade trofie pasta and basil pesto are a proper regional speciality, with the recipe including potato and green beans just like you’d get in beautiful Liguria. The vibrant green of the dish shows just how fresh this pesto is, and the pasta has exactly the right texture. Grada Padano and Pecorino Romano cheese top things off beautifully.
The Branzino al Forno (RM68) is another relatively simple dish that lets the quality of the ingredients shine. Everything is fresh, never frozen, and prepared with precision. The Mediterranean flavours in the sauce and the sides glow against the soft, sweet and flaky fish, with a little extra tang from the white wine in the sauce. (You can request for booze-free or halal sauce — it’s made fresh to order every time.)
Many other main courses sound absolutely incredible, too, but we have to leave room for dolci.
We opt for a Tortino al Cioccolato (RM38), a delightful dark chocolate lava cake whose deep and luxurious richness finds a dance partner in the fresh, creamy vanilla gelato. I make myself feel better by reminding myself that dark chocolate is supposed to be healthier than milk chocolate, and then make myself sad by realising it doesn’t mean I can order another Tortino.
And, for authentically good measure, a Tiramisù (RM30), which is exactly as sweet and soft and wickedly indulgent as any good tiramisu should be.
Italian Drinks List
It’s a Saturday lunchtime, so we have very good reason to check out the booze menu as well. (Who are we kidding … Tuesday brunch doesn’t stop us.)
For wine, we have a Pignoletto Frizzante (RM42 per glass/RM208 per bottle), a very pleasant sparkling aperitif. Delicate, fruity, and goes very well with cold starters and white meat. The wine menu has a great selection of Italian vintages, hand-picked at very highly regarded traditional vineyards in Bologna and Tuscany. Rich reds, refreshing whites — there’s something on the wine menu for everything on the food menu.
And finally, of course, because there’s a Negroni on the menu, we have to try one — and this is the true Yum List taste test for authenticity. Monica Tindall, Queen Negroni, must pass judgment and declare her approval. (Or not.)
Dolce Vita’s Negroni (RM48) passes the test smoothly. To be fair, we’d expect nothing less from an Italian place. Full-bodied and bittersweet in all the right places, and — much like everything else on the food menu — playing by rules that do not need to be broken.
Dolce Vita Menu Review
From the service to the specials, Dolce Vita really does embrace everything that makes Italian cuisine world-famous, right down to the warm welcome and family recipes. The cosy and classic ambience makes for a great atmosphere, and although everything is very ‘proper’, it’s not pretentious for a second. This is classic, quality Italian cuisine, just like nonna (grandmother) would be proud of.
It’s in a great spot with easy parking in Nexus Bangsar South, there are set menus and special events and even a Sunday brunch once a month, and there’s a good energy about this place. (Maybe that’s the imported Portofino gin talking.)
Reasons to try Dolce Vita’s menu: High-quality, authentic Italian cuisine with gourmet Italian ingredients and regional recipes; excellent pizza, pasta and meat selection; generous and well-balanced portions with plenty of homemade, fresh-to-order ingredients; unique imported wine menu.
Dolce Vita Ristorante & Pizzeria
Nexus, Bangsar South, G-17, Ground Floor
7, Jalan Kerinchi, Bangsar South
59200 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
+612-256 7309
www.portofino.my/dolcevita
Dolce Vita Opening Hours
Daily 10 am – 11 pm
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Yummy!