Park Grill - Steakhouse, Naza Tower, KL

Park Grill – Steakhouse, Naza Tower, KL

Words: Karen Santosuosso
Photos: Rich Callahan

If you’re ready to be wined and dined, then it’s time to head to Park Grill in KL city centre. The service was impeccable, and, in all honesty, we almost licked our plates clean as each dish was so satisfying. The restaurant, an original concept by the Curate Group, is situated within the Naza Tower at Platinum Park and is a strong player in KL’s definitive dining scene. The interior feels like classic New York, with lots of moody lighting, dark walls, leather and glamour. They are also offering exceptional deals, including a free bottle of wine for Wednesday ladies’ night, 30% off oysters on Thursdays, and free-flow wine and cocktails on Fridays and Saturdays for RM 120.

best steakhouses Kuala Lumpur — Park Grill KL – Naza Tower, Platinum Park

Welcome Drinks & Starters

We’re warmly greeted by the Park Grill team and welcomed with an off-menu item, the Smoky Pineapple (RM 39), which includes fresh pineapple juice and smoked cinnamon and is quite a thirst-quencher. You may add a splash of Mount Gay rum from Barbados to your Smoky Pineapple (RM 50) for the full cocktail version. It’s a divine way to start off our Friday evening.

Chef Hafiz, who’s been with Park Grill for almost three years, shares his pride in enhancing classic Continental cuisine with a fun twist. One of his favourites, the Josper Grilled Octopus (RM 138) is presented beautifully with baby potato and a side of peri-peri sauce, scallion and garlic aioli. The Spanish octopus is perfectly cooked in their Josper oven with paprika oil for added flavour. Park Grill’s Josper oven uses the highest quality grade of charcoal from mangrove and oak trees locally sourced from Perak.

We also try the Josper Grilled Caesar Salad (RM 46), a unique take on a classic Caesar – including parmesan cheese tuile, onsen egg and wagyu crackling. Chef Hafiz explains it as a “Ceasar salad 2.0” – two kinds of salad in one dish. The onsen egg is cooked at a low temperature for extra creaminess. There is Josper grilled baby romaine along with fresh lettuce leaves to have a variety of textures and a satisfying crunch in the salad. The sous-vide-cooked chicken breast is perfectly moist, too.

The Tajima Steak Tartare (RM 76) is a beautifully balanced melding of wagyu tenderloin beef, characterised by its lean meat, fat, and quality of marbling, along with anchovy, la-yu (chilli oil) dressing, fried capers, shallots, and chives. Another one of Chef Hafiz’s favourites, he uses homemade egg yolk jelly in lieu of raw egg to enhance the flavour and texture of the tartare. I wouldn’t usually go for raw beef tartare, but this dish was truly melt-in-your-mouth scrumptious.

Shima, Park Grill’s senior supervisor and her team then bring us a peach and raspberry granita (complimentary to guests who order a starter and main), a delightfully refreshing palate cleanser before we head into the main dishes of the evening.

Park Grill KL - Naza Tower, Platinum Park — Peach & Raspberry Granita

Park Grill Main Dishes & Steaks

We begin the main event with the Grilled Black Cod (RM 140) – a thick piece of Chilean cod fish that has been lovingly marinated and lightly seared with sake, mirin, honey and miso, then finished off in the Josper grill for added smokiness. The fish is served atop a black lentil stew. There is a hint of chilli seasoning that gives it a nice kick. The cod is perfectly seared on the outside and buttery on the inside, and it ends up being one of my favourite dishes that we try. I know I’ll be returning for this dish soon!

Park Grill has a few different pasta offerings, but the Spicy Strozzapreti Pasta (RM 108) is the way to go. Mon informs us that strozzapreti translates to “priest stranglers” based on some version of a story about clergymen having a bad reputation many moons ago. These Yum List ventures always seem to provide me with random gastronomy trivia knowledge that I hope will come in handy someday! Alas, the strozzapreti does seem to strangle our taste buds in the best way possible. It is paired with a creamy ponzu reduction sauce, parmesan cheese and French chilli flakes, making for the perfect blend of a citrusy, spicy, and sweet umami. The pasta is served alongside a generous portion of Spanish bone marrow that really completes the dish, which ends up being our reelographer Margarita’s top pick.

Rich’s showstopper of the evening is the Iberico Lamb (288 RM), which is one of Park Grill’s regular specials. “I could eat three plates of these and be a happy man,” he exclaims. The dish is billed as a sharing platter, though, so Rich does indeed let us all dig in. The lamb comes from the Spanish region of the Pyrenees, and we are told these lambs have been raised in a “relaxing, stress-free environment to enhance their innate qualities.” The lamb ribs are glazed with honey and spices, then grilled in the Josper oven and served with a bell pepper emulsion sauce. They fall off the bone and are seriously tender.

Park Grill prides itself on their selection of steaks, too. As if there weren’t enough delectable main dishes, we also get to try the Sher Wagyu Striploin MB6 (RM 358), which comes with crispy triple-cooked fries and a Perigourdine sauce of butter, Port wine, and truffle jus. The hefty slab of striploin has an excellent char on the outside while being succulent and juicy on the inside. It is perfectly seasoned simply with salt and pepper.

We finish the main courses with the Tajima Beef Wellington (RM 348). It consists of a Wagyu tenderloin, which is first seared, then stuffed with a truffle duxelle, seared foie gras and wrapped in a buttery puff pastry. Served together with a miso bearnaise and Perigourdine sauce, it is a magnificently lavish dish that can be shared amongst at least two people.

Park Grill Desserts

I would be remiss to not mention the Pain Perdu (RM 43) as we all found comfort in digging our forks into this sinfully caramelised loaf of brioche, which is piped with cream anglaise in the middle in order to achieve every bite being a moist and scrumptious one. It is paired with homemade burnt coconut ice cream to cut the sweetness. Mon does not usually have a sweet tooth, yet she keeps going back for more of the decadence.

We also try the Manchego Burnt Cheesecake (RM 45), which yields a dense yet buttery smooth texture and is served with Chantilly cream and lemon zest. It is a great dessert choice for someone who generally doesn’t like anything too sweet.

Wine List & Cocktails

Park Grill’s wine collection is extensive, with bottles from Italy, France, Spain and Australia. Our glasses of Fedora Rivera (RM 38), a DOC Italian wine from Puglia, go well with our starters. A Chardonnay blend with crisp floral and fruit notes, it has a subtle acidity that pairs wonderfully with the octopus. The Famille Perrin La Vieille Ferme Rosé from the Rhône Valley region of France (RM 38) also pairs well with seafood. Its red currant and summer stonefruit notes provide vivacity on the palate and can accompany the catch of the day.

In the red category, the Madfish Coastline Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot from Western Australia (RM 290/bottle) is a perfect match for our Wagyu Striploin. The black cherry, blueberry and chocolate character, along with flavours of roasted coffee beans and structured tannins, make for a rich and well-balanced acidity on the palate.

We know that Park Grill takes its wine game seriously when it delivers their Altos Ibericos Rioja, a flavourful Tempranillo, in a different delicate glass than the prior red to pay homage to what was voted the “world’s most admired wine brand” (RM 368/bottle). The toasty notes of red forest fruits and its smooth tannins make it quite easy to savour. It compliments our Iberico lamb and would really go well with any of the steak dishes.

Last but not least, we cannot leave without sampling one of my and Mon’s favourite cocktails – a Negroni (RM 49). The equal parts Hendrick’s gin, Carpano Antica Vermouth and Campari make for a gratifyingly bittersweet nightcap.

Park Grill Review

Park Grill is an ideal place for a meal in a classy yet unpretentious environment. Their timeless bar would also be a worthwhile spot to sit alone or with a friend and a wine or cocktail, listening to upbeat tunes and feeling like you’re transported to classic New York. There are many individual dishes, but also sharing platters, making it feasible for any size party. We cannot wait to return for more.

Reasons to visit Park Grill: wonderful and friendly service; deliciously charred meats & seafood from the Josper oven; the melt-in-your-mouth moist on the inside, yet caramelised crunchy delicious on the outside Pain Perdu; and the amazing free-flow wine & cocktail deal (RM 120) on Fridays and Saturdays!