Summer Menu @ Altitude – Shangri-La Sydney
Monica Tindall
I have a special relationship with Altitude, Shangri-La Sydney. It was the first place I dined when I returned after an absence of two and a half years due to the pandemic. It became my go-to spot for catching up with friends after long stints overseas, and it’s often my first stop when I arrive back from international trips. With so much time spent out of the country, the unbeatable views from the glass box, the modern Australian menu, and the iconic Aussie wine pairing are just the antidote to a bit of homesickness.
Lunch at Altitude Sydney
Today, however, marks a first for me – lunch at Altitude, Shangri-La Sydney. My timing has always led me to dinner dates here, but today I’m thrilled to be dining during daylight hours. Firstly, well, you know I adore natural light for photos. Secondly, those stunning views offer a different perspective and charm during the day. And lastly, I must confess, I’m solar-powered and prefer a little daytime indulgence.
5-course Lunch
Altitude offers a two-course, three-course or five-course lunch menu with the option for sommelier wine pairing or iconic wine pairing – a premium range featuring some of Australia’s finest producers. We’ve booked in for the five-course lunch (AUD 129) with iconic wine pairing (AUD 155). To qualify for a window seat, there’s a minimum spend (AUD 150). Fortunately, we reach that with the wine alone, so our close-up with spectacular views are secured.
Wine nerds that we are, we’re thrilled with the iconic Aussie wine program led by Executive Sommelier Matt Herod and assisted by sommelier Adam Wilkins. We begin with a bubbly from Tassie, the 2020 Andrew Pirie Apogee Deluxe Brut, Lebrina. It boasts exceptionally fine bubbles, a creamy mouthfeel, high acidity and concludes with a bold, citrusy finish.
Two thick slices of wonderfully spongy sourdough, one plain, one seeded, are partnered with smoked butter and salt are also on our table, proving hard to resist.
Course One
Our first course, Tuna Sashimi, offers acidity from ponzu and apple, playing counterpoint to the tuna’s richness. At the same time, charred cucumber and puffed quinoa change up the textures, while eggplant miso, parsley, chervil and katsuobushi (bonito flakes) add complexity. Sourdough garum, a toasty, nutty flavour, begs to be mopped up with the sourdough (lucky we left some).
From winemaker Sam Connew and rising Tassie label, Stargazer, comes the 2022 Tupelo. A blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Gewurztraminer (a classic Alsatian trio), has a nose of white blooms and apple pie. Left on the skins for an extra touch of texture, its citrus acidity is balanced with body – a great match for the tuna.
Course Two
Course two, Cauliflower & Turnip, is fresh and bright yet hearty at the same time. In a time when we possibly ask too much of cauliflower (cauli steak, rice, pizza …), here it’s been allowed to shine in its natural glory. On a bed of turnip paste, roasted purple, green and yellow florets are combined with za’ater, flaked almonds, pomegranate seeds and crisp ice plant. Two sauces, a caper raisin dressing and herb vinaigrette, keep the profile light and refreshing.
The Yeringberg 2020 Marsanne Roussanne from Yarra Valley is a classic Rhone white blend rooted in the introduction of Roussanne cuttings to Australia by CSIRO in 1983. Planted alongside Marsanne vines, the small vineyard now produces a premier example of this blend. Aged for 8-9 months in old oak, the wine maintains freshness and structure, developing beautifully with age. Limited in production, it’s a highly regarded addition to any cellar, offering an interplay of white flowers, nectar, pear, and anis aromas, a textured palate of stone fruit, honeydew, and fig, and a refreshing, long finish. Note to self: find more of this in 2024.
Course Three
Despite, or perhaps because of, growing up in the bush, I don’t eat a lot of kangaroo. However, Altitude Sydney’s Kangaroo Tataki might just turn the tide. It has a lovely char on the exterior, giving way to a blushing pink middle. Kangaroo meat is incredibly lean (you’ve seen these guys box, right? Roos are ripped). The only way to eat it is rare to medium rare. It’s a little gamey but not overpowering, more meaty than grassy on the palate. Cultured yoghurt, lemon verbena leaf, kutjera bush tomato chutney (bush raisin), shredded barbecued kohlrabi, macadamia crumbs, and nasturtium leaves are friendly companions.
Legendary winemaker and educator, Brian Croser (Petaluma & Tapanappa) is responsible for the roo’s wine mate. Tapanappa’s 2012 Whalebone Merlot Cabernet Franc, a translucent garnet colour, is perfumed with floral notes, leather and spice. Medium-bodied on the palate, Merlot offers rich fruit sweetness balanced by fine tannins from time on the skins. Complex notes of wood, tobacco, herbs, earth and fruit emerge, suggesting potential for another good ten years of aging. It’s an excellent partner to the light gaminess of the tataki.
Course Four
My choice of main, Ora King, New Zealand’s fat-marbled prize salmon, delivers on its hype. Each bite oozes moisture, the rich flesh punctuated by bursts of briny salmon roe. A supporting cast of braised leek, tart cherry tomato, and earthy watercress sauce plays off the fish’s sweetness, while crispy leek tuile adds a contrasting crunch.
Don’t be fooled by the wine partner Vinteloper Odeon Pinot Noir 2018’s delicate hue. Underneath lies a potent beast – concentrated fruit, earthy complexity, and a surprising intensity that lingers long after the last sip. Odeon 2018 is a testament to organic excellence and one of the finest New World Pinots you’ll encounter. Needless to say, it stands proudly alongside the luscious salmon.
Hubby’s Brooklyn Valley’s Grass-fed Striploin fulfils on the medium-rare promise. The seared crust gives way to a juicy pink centre, the rich MBS3+ marbling practically shimmering. The accompanying flavours are bold and complementary: earthy Aussie bush tomatoes and silver beet meet tangy orange sauce and sweet capsicum gel, while the ox tail tartlet, beneath a crumbly top, echoes the beef’s depth with a decadent twist. No frills, just pure steak satisfaction elevated by a well-orchestrated supporting cast.
An excellent choice for the rich beef, John Duval’s Eligo Shiraz packs a serious punch – jammy blackberry and plum mingle with bold whispers of liquorice and earth. Despite its immense concentration, fine tannins provide grip and structure, ensuring a graceful ballet on the palate. While built for aging, this wine’s balance shines through, offering undeniable intrigue even in its youth.
Dessert
We crack through the Valrhona Caribe chocolate shell of the Boysenberry Wagon Wheel to find a hidden nostalgic treasure. The gooey centre of strawberry marshmallow and wattleseed sable biscuit echoes childhood summers, only with much more grown-up flavours.
Dessert concludes with the legendary DeBortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon 2019—a dessert wine that shifted my palate from university days of cheap drinks (think Passion Pop and Green Ginger Wine) to a more refined taste. A gift from a friend, this wine, created by Darren De Bortoli in 1982, was a game-changer in appreciating quality. Featuring nuances of stone fruit, citrus, dried apricots, and delicate oak undertones, this wine presents a well-balanced fusion of velvety texture, sweet fruitiness, and invigorating freshness.
Reasons to visit Altitude, Shangri-La Sydney: exceptional views and service; modern Australian menu made on top-quality produce; iconic Aussie wine pairing – a must for wine enthusiasts.
Altitude, Shangri-La Sydney
Level 36, Shangri-La Sydney
176 Cumberland Street, The Rocks
Sydney, NSW 2000, Australia
+(61 2) 9250 6000
[email protected]
Altitude, Shangri-La Sydney Operating Hours
Breakfast
Monday to Friday: 7 am – 10:30 am
Saturday and Sunday: 7 am – 11 am
Lunch
Monday to Sunday: 12 pm – 2 pm
Dinner
Sunday to Thursday: 6 pm – 10 pm
Friday and Saturday: 5:30 pm – 10 pm
Sundays and Public Holidays incur a 15% surcharge. For Public Holiday hours, please get in touch with the hotel.
50% discount on parking when dining. Receipt to be presented to valent with a maximum of four hours discounted.
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Lovely view of the Opera House and the Sdyney Bridge.