gēn 根 Georgetown
Words: Monica Tindall
Photos: Cheok Hor
While fine dining kitchens chased elusive truffles and caviar, Chef Johnson Wong was scouring Penang’s independent growers, coaxing vibrant flavours from turmeric stalks and sun-baked chillies. Long before ‘farm-to-table’ became a trendy slogan, he was transforming humble island ingredients into modern masterpieces. Today, with his team at gēn 根, he elevates heritage flavours that sing with the soul of Georgetown.
gēn 根 Georgetown
After a year’s absence, we’re back on the island, and gēn 根 is on our must-return-to-again-and-again list. Today, there are 11 courses (RM480++) with wine pairing (RM288++), so we unbuckle our belts and prepare for the show.
Alvin and Sherry introduce the menu, reminding us that gēn 根 translates to “ground roots”, in line with the concept of using only local ingredients.
Seasonal Menu 2024
Tamarind, Mackerel
羅望子, 馬鮫魚
It’s a crunchy, tasty start with “Tamarind Mackerel” done two ways. The aged fish is glazed with tamarind sauce and wedged between a tamarind cracker sandwich. It’s brightened with a garnish of ulam raja and selom flowers. We follow it with mackerel broth infused with peppermint and tamarind oil, offering a nuanced interplay of tastes.
Kesum, Oyster
叻沙葉, 生蠔
Oysters sourced from Malaysia’s first hatchery shine under a kesum (Vietnamese coriander) emulsion in the “Kesum, Oyster”. Zesty mango cuts through the richness, while ketumpang air (crab claw leaves) and delicate lavender-hued cat whisker flowers whisper of the tropics. Kesom sorbet is served apart on a wooden spoon. We take half the sorbet, then the rest with the oyster. I could start and end with this dish. It’s delicious.
A dry Riesling, Rudolf Fürst Pur Mineral 2021, provides a balanced partner. This Riesling bursts with classic notes of peach and honeysuckle and even a touch of latex, enhanced by a surprisingly creamy texture.
Luncheon Meat, Caviar
午餐肉, 魚子醬
The next course, “Luncheon Meat, Caviar,” arrives as a miniature treasure chest, unveiling three drawers: one housing warm spice buns, another smooth fermented red bean curd like decadent butter, and lastly, a drawer cradling T’Lur Kaluga Amur caviar atop homemade five-spice luncheon meat. We open the bun, spread the creamy curd, and then layer on the savoury meat for a bite that’s as comforting as it is luxurious.
We move to rosé with a glass of Schmitt d.b. from Germany. Crafted by biodynamic masters Bianka and Daniel Schmitt, this wild and intense rosé bursts with red fruit, earth, and spice. A blend of Merlot, Pinot Noir, Blauer Portugieser, and Dornfelder grapes, it’s gently pressed and aged in old casks, delivering a bold and beautiful expression of nature’s bounty in every sip.
Shad Fish, Fish Maw
茨壳魚, 魚漂
“Shad Fish, Fish Maw” offers a shad fish and fish maw duet in contrasting textures. Steamed zucchini cradled in a sweet Air Itam ginger dressing forms the base, topped with tender shad fish in one bowl, while the other presents crispy fish maw and liver dancing atop plump shad fish noodles, all crowned with light zucchini espuma. We savour alternating bites from each bowl for a seesaw of textures and temperatures.
Mantis Prawn, Mussel
皮皮蝦, 蚌
Grilled mantis prawns, juicy and tender, are paired with crispy lotus root braised and deep-fried for a textural contrast. Sweet lotus seeds, covered by a giant nasturtium leaf dotted with lemon, add to the flavour party. The mussel broth, rich and savoury with buah kulim, a Malaysian wild forest garlic, brings it all together in one delicious bite.
Petai, Tempeh
臭豆, 天貝
Creamy fermented bean (tempeh) and stinky beans (petai) paste sits at the bottom of the next dish, “Petai, Tempeh” topped with a vibrant crunch of chayote, fiddlehead fern, and okra. Charred green chilli vinegar and banana leaf oil add zing and depth, while a good stir reveals layers of contrasting textures: smooth, creamy, and crackling fresh.
Beef, Buah Keluak
牛里脊, 黑果
I thought the oyster would be my favourite dish, but the “Beef, Buah Keluak” is running a tight competition. The retired dairy cow from Farm Fresh (a local dairy) is packed with flavour. How cool is it that Malaysia is following a sustainable trend that is highly prized in Europe – where the best beef has grazed naturally on grass for 8 – 12 years before slaughter, compared to industrially farmed feedlot cows killed at around two years old. The use of older cows, treated humanely, produces the tastiest steaks around. What they lack in melt-in-the-mouth texture, they make up for in flavour. And the accompanying cincalok (fermented shrimp) sauce, milk corn pudding, spinach oil and turmeric oil are nothing short of mouthwatering. It’s finished with beef and buah keluak (a fruit indigenous to local mangroves and only made edible with special preparation) consommé. It’s intense; only a mouthful is needed.
La Soeur Cadette is a radiant red, brimming with youthful florals and juicy red fruits. Vibrant acidity weaves through the medium-bodied frame, guided by fine tannins and whispers of minerals. This blend of two Beaujolais sites, granite and sand, sings with rhubarb, raspberry, and cherry, making it a joyous companion for the meat.
Flower Crab, Papaya Beancurd
花蟹, 木瓜腐乳
The dish “Flower Crab, Papaya, Beancurd” showcases Penang’s renowned seafood, with the flower crab chosen for its inherent sweetness. It features crab rice and shaved crab roe in bowl one. And papaya bean curd with crab roe cracker in bowl two. It concludes with a palate-cleansing touch of pickled papaya, ensuring a satisfying prelude to dessert.
The crab’s mate, 2020 Château de Marsannay Chardonnay, delivers a complex nose of spring flowers, citrus, and yellow peach. The palate is generous and lively, with nicely integrated acidity and a lingering finish.
Strawberry, Ginger Flower
草莓, 姜花
The dessert “Strawberry, Ginger Flower” is a pretty disc of three layers. The bottom combines fresh cherry tomatoes with strawberry and ginger flower jus. A middle layer of strawberry ginger flower ice adds a refreshing touch, and the top layer features strawberry roselle jelly. Cameron Highlands strawberries, with a slightly more acidic profile, keep the character fresh.
Vanilla, Goat Milk
香草, 羊奶
The “Vanilla, Goat Milk” dessert features ice cream made with local vanilla and farm-fresh goat milk, layered with spiced sponge and milk crepe. It has a dusting of jackfruit snow on top. Despite my dislike for jackfruit (including cempedak and durian), the jackfruit in this dessert is very mild and doesn’t overpower the other elements.
However, the beverage pairing (from the zero-proof pairing) is jackfruit-dominant. It gets past my nose, but not more than a sip. If you choose alcohol-free drinks, they all feature local producers. While I’m not fond of jackfruit, it’s a clever concoction, clarifying the fruit with milk and finishing it off with gula Melaka and fish sauce.
Pineapple, Soy Sauce
鳳梨, 醬油
This dessert, “Pineapple, Soy Sauce,” is a two-part surprise. First, a warm chilli-infused pineapple foam sits atop soft coconut jelly, with an earthy fermented pineapple powder topping. Below, thin pineapple tart shells hold both creamy pineapple gelato and tangy pickled pineapple, drizzled with savoury soy sauce and a punchy chilli reduction. The textures contrast wonderfully: warm foam vs. smooth jelly, cool gelato vs. spicy drizzle. A lingering chilli heat makes us reach for another bite.
gēn 根 Georgetown Review
If you’re looking for a dining experience that is both innovative and rooted in tradition, gēn 根 is a must-visit. Chef Johnson Wong and his team have created a menu that is not only delicious but also tells the story of Penang’s rich culinary heritage.
Reasons to visit gēn 根 Georgetown: an innovative menu highlighting local ingredients; familiar flavours with unique interpretations; love the oyster, the beef and the pineapple dessert.
gēn 根 Georgetown
Unit 6, 8, Gat Lebuh Gereja,
George Town, 10300 George Town
Pulau Pinang, Malaysia
+6 012-511 3323
www.genpenang.com
gēn 根 Georgetown Opening Hours
Closed Wednesday
Lunch: 12 – 3 pm (last call 2 pm)
Dinner: 6 – 11 pm (last call 9:30 pm)
Find more recommendations for travel to Penang here and stay up to date with the latest gourmet happenings around Malaysia here and here.
Pineapple and soy sauce sound interesting.