The Dining Room by James Viles – Park Hyatt Sydney
Words & Photos: Monica Tindall
Header Photo Credit: Manuel Lesser
We’re so happy to be back in Sydney and grateful for the many experiences of dining on contemporary Australian cuisine made by some of the country’s most celebrated chefs. Today, we’re wowed once more with views, service and the essence of Australia at The Dining Room by James Viles in Park Hyatt Sydney.
Chef James Viles
Renowned chef James Viles is known for his creative approach to modern cuisine and dedication to sustainability. His highly acclaimed, two-hatted restaurant, Biota Dining, closed in 2020 due to bushfires and the Covid pandemic. At 23, he was among the youngest chefs to receive a Sydney Morning Herald Chef’s Hat. Joining Park Hyatt Sydney in 2022, The Dining Room by James Viles has gained a Hat two years running. A celebration of Australian bounty set against the breathtaking scenery of Sydney Harbour, Viles and his team curate dining experiences that are both artful and immersive, showcasing the best of the nation’s produce. For first-timers, the best way to understand the concept is with the Chef’s Table Experience (AUD 175).
Chef’s Table Experience
The Chef’s Table Experience at The Dining Room by James Viles is a seasonal menu of nine courses with the option of somm-recommended wine (a wide selection of fine wines available by the glass thanks to the Coravin system), which, of course, we can’t resist. It’s designed for the whole table to enjoy, so be sure to book with your gourmet friends who will partake in the complete degustation.
Malted Sourdough & Bush Tea
We begin by slathering a thick slice of malted sourdough, sporting a crunchy crust and spongey middle, with a spread of treacle butter and a sprinkle of sea salt. It’s an excellent match for the welcome shot of bush tea featuring Aussie natives and a touch of eucalyptus.
Sommelier Manuel Lesser does a fantastic job matching wine to our preferences. I can’t resist a pink bubbly beginning, and the NV Paul Bara Rosé Grand Cru Bouzy FR ($42) fits the bill. It’s a light, salmon-hued Champagne boasting a persistent mousse. The expressive nose of red fruit is echoed in the palate, with ripe berries evolving into brioche notes and a long, Morello cherry conclusion. The tart taste of the house-made sourdough would also pair well with a Shiraz red wine or a sparkling Shiraz for a more brunchy feel.
Snacks
Next, a trio of snacks is an excellent companion to the sound of the sea lapping the dock viewed from our semi-open window seat. The first, a French savoury pastry, gougère, similar to choux, is filled with pickles and coppa. Coppa, resembling prosciutto but from the muscular front rather than the rear leg of a pig, has more texture and concentrated flavours than its famous, delicate counterpart. Paper-thin, crispy chicken skin with dashi cream and trout roe is next. Lastly, the beloved Aussie seasoning of salt and vinegar flavours thin house-made chips. A petite bowl of tomato puree and a thick bisque foam is provided for dipping.
Summer Findings
Summer Findings is a pretty plate of stone fruits – nectarines, white peach and beet-coloured apricots – in slices, eighths and shavings, adorned with edible flowers and herbs. They’re fresh and cleansing, but the pecora curd is the star of the show. This sheep cheese is delicate and silky and is the perfect savoury counterbalance to the juicy, sweet fruit.
Rump Tartare
Finely chopped O’Connor dry-aged beef is masterfully seasoned with horseradish, chives, shallots, capers, Dijon mustard, black garlic and drops of aioli in the rump tartare. The “spent” cracker is a flawless scooper. Made from sourdough leftovers, it’s a way to reduce waste that has turned out to be a deliciously successful experiment. They’re crunchy all the way through, with a light bubbling, reminiscent of a good leopard spot pizza dough, only much finer, making them light and crisp.
Our wine mate, Greywacke Wild Sauvignon Blanc, NZ (AUD 42), crafted by legendary winemaker Kevin Judd of Cloudy Bay, transcends convention with added complexity from time in old oak and wild yeast fermentation. This refreshing wine combines lychee, grapefruit, and honeydew melon with flinty minerality, finishing with mandarin and lime zest. Fermented naturally, it offers an alternative, intricate, and textural Sauvignon Blanc experience with a crisp, succulent palate and a long, flinty, dry finish.
Murray Cod
Leading the line-up towards heartier plates, Murray cod is served in smoked bone broth with clams. The fish is delicate and fatty, coming from a sustainable farm in the Riverina. The skin is like a slim shard of glass, the dashi stock gives umami appeal and a native coastal succulent, karkalla (also known as pig face), adds crunch and a light saltiness.
The wine match, a 2022 Bannockburn Chardonnay from Geelong, VIC (AUD 39), explodes with fruit, texture, and complexity, making a solid partner to the umami flavours in the dish. A light minerality, grapefruit, and pear dance with smoky oak on a long, balanced finish. It’s something the region is quite proud of and has received high acclaim amongst critics countrywide.
Bavette Rangers Valley + Market Leaves
The bavette steak (French for flank steak), a hidden gem near the abdominals, boasts a big, bold, beefy flavour and beautiful marbling. This butcher’s secret is perfect for barbecuing whole and slicing tableside. Its slight thickness ensures juiciness and tenderness, making it superior to the similar but leaner skirt steak. Kampot pepper sauce elevates the profile with its floral fragrance, and a drizzle of brown butter completes the plate. A bowl of market leaves is simply dressed in shallot vinegar and chives, a simple yet perfect side.
Another outstanding wine choice, the 2017 Grosset Gaia Red Blend from Clare Valley, SA (AUD 55), is a limited edition with only 400 bottles, this one marked as bottle 361. The Cabernet blend presents a smooth, floral character with black cherry and blackcurrant aromas. It’s a potent yet smooth red, seamlessly merging rich fruit with gentle tannins. Halliday agrees, awarding it a stellar 96 points.
Passion Fruit Curd
Heading towards the sweet conclusion, an icy swirl of passionfruit sorbet waltzes with juicy mango cubes, a citrusy cha-cha-cha amped by pops of passionfruit seeds. The sorbet makes good friends with the Mount Horrocks 2022 Cordon Cut, which bursts with fragrant spring florals, citrus zest, and spice, offering a concentrated mix of sweetness and acidity. Cordon Cut is a process similar to making Amarone, where the grapes are let dry, intensifying the flavours.
Doughnuts
The meal concludes with warm, comforting doughnuts powdered with cardamom-sugar. Rhubarb jam, buttermilk gelato, and a drizzle of olive oil elevate the humble sweet to a gourmet sensation.
The Dining Room by James Viles Review
Reasons to visit The Dining Room by James Viles: contemporary Australian menu; breathtaking views of iconic Sydney Harbour; try the Chef’s Table Experience; fantastic wine menu and exceptional service.
The Dining Room by James Viles
Park Hyatt Sydney
7 Hickson Rd, The Rocks
NSW 2000, Australia
+ 61 2 9256 1234
[email protected]
@diningbyjamesviles
The Dining Room by James Viles Opening Hours
BREAKFAST
Monday – Saturday: 6.30am – 10.30am
Sunday: 6.30am – 11am
LUNCH
Thursday – Friday: 12pm – 2:30pm
Saturday and Sunday: 12:30pm – 2:30pm
DINNER
Wednesday – Sunday: 5:30pm – 9.30pm
The Living Room
ALL-DAY DINING
Daily: 11am – 10pm
AFTERNOON TEA
Friday – Sunday 12:00pm – 3:30pm
*Lunch and dinner reservations are highly recommended.
**The dress code is smart casual.
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Enjoy yourself in Sydney. Wowww!!! Hyatt no less.