Simply Scandinavian at the Mandarin Oriental
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Han Sen Hau
Prepare your taste buds for a Scandinavian culinary adventure as Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur undergoes a takeover courtesy of chef Sayan Isaksson from Michelin-starred Nour, Stockholm. From February 26th to March 3rd, Chef Isaksson will showcase his refined culinary style and unique fusion of culinary influences through a theme titled “Simply Scandinavian.”
Chef Sayan Isaksson has made a significant impact on the Swedish culinary scene. His impressive track record includes the successful opening of Esperanto in 2007, which quickly earned the restaurant a Michelin star. His talent and dedication were further recognised in 2017 when his intimate restaurant Imouto received a Michelin star.
The Mandarin Grill previously hosted Chef Isaksson in 2018 during the 30th Anniversary of a global event also titled Simply Scandinavian. Since then, Chef Isaksson has continued to perfect his craft and will showcase some of his unique recipes at the Mandarin Grill. His excitement about returning to the kitchen of the Mandarin Grill and sharing his culinary creations was palpable.
The moment you step into the Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur, you are greeted by a blend of elegance and comfort. The warm woods, the soft fabrics, and the stunning artwork transport you to a world of refinement and charm. While other hotels have sprouted around the KLCC park and fountains, the MO has remained a timeless and beloved destination in the city.
For me, the Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur, holds a special place in my heart. When I relocated from the UK to Malaysia nearly 12 years ago, it was here that I stayed as I looked for a new apartment. Every time I visit the hotel for an event or a dinner, I am reminded of the kindness and generosity of its fantastic staff, my first experience of the famous Malaysian hospitality.
Simply Scandinavian Menu
The Simply Scandinavian event takes place at the Mandarin Grill, a place of classic charm. The soft velvet chairs in aquamarine, a hue that echoes in the ceiling’s carpeting, along with the crisp tablecloths and glittering glasses, welcome guests to a world of graceful luxury.
Guests can enjoy a choice of menus, including two lunch and two dinner options. The lunch set menus begin at RM158 for the 2-course option and RM198 for the 3-course option. The dinner menu features a full degustation menu with 5 or 8 courses, priced at RM368 and RM398, respectively. Wine pairing options are also available for the dinner menus, starting at RM158.
We were excited to sample the eight-course dinner menu (RM 398) and the Wine Pairing (RM158 for four glasses). For lovers of French wine, the wine pairing option is a must-try. Since June last year, Harintharan Jagananthan, the Director of Food and Beverage at the MO, has curated a fantastic selection of wine choices. He has over 20 years of experience in luxury hotels and fine dining, and it shows. The wines were so exquisite that we took note of their names and vowed to purchase them also to enjoy at home.
Intro
We were welcomed to our tables with a coupe of NV Bollinger | Special Cuvee, which was a delicate golden colour, distinctive of black grape varieties, with very fine bubbles. The nose provided beautiful aromatic complexity, ripe fruit and spicy aromas, and hints of roasted apples, apple compote and peaches, the perfect pairing for our starters or ‘Intro” to our meal.
Our first dish was a Gunkan Crab – XO. Gunkan, meaning war boat, is a type of nigirizushi that is hand-shaped into a cube of rice and wrapped with a strip of seaweed to form a vessel for the topping. In this case, the seaweed was substituted with a delicate daikon or winter radish, holding the succulent crab meat and the XO sauce. XO sauce is a spicy and umami-rich condiment from Hong Kong, but Chef Isaksson gave it a Nordic twist by using Gotland chillies, house-dried scallops, and Swedish squid. The dish was garnished with micro herbs and violet petals and had a fiery kick at the end.
After the spicy crab and sauce, there was a Chlorophyll Shot to refresh our palates. The shot had a grassy, earthy flavour that reminded us of nature. We also appreciated its health benefits, which are said to include boosting blood quality and health.
Marbled Quail Egg came next, nestled in a crispy noodle nest. The nest had a texture similar to the ‘shredded wheat’ cereal I loved as a kid. The egg reminded me of the ones I would spot in the hedgerows on my way to school; the nostalgic associations left me with a smile.
We ended our appetisers with a Buckwheat Wagyu Tartar, topped with sweet and sticky onions. The buckwheat pastry shell, shaped like a miniature flower pot, added a delightful crunch to the velvety and flavourful beef tartar inside.
Mains
A glass of 2019 Domaine Boisson, a delicate Aligote wine from Burgundy, France, accompanied our mains. Monica, Han Sen, our photographer, and I were all captivated by this wine, which had a refined palate of soft stone fruit, subtle vanilla, and a refreshing citrus finish. It was delightful on its own, but it also complemented our seafood dishes perfectly. If you see this wine stocked in your local wine shop, it’s a must-buy.
Our main courses began with a stunning presentation of Coral Grouper Sashimi. The thin fish slices were artfully arranged to resemble a blooming rose of pale pink petals. A dab of wasabi and a small bowl of shio-ponzu sauce accompanied the dish. Ponzu sauce is a popular Japanese dressing that adds a burst of tangy and savoury flavours.
Our next bite was an Oyster ‘Taco’, a crunchy pastry wrap filled with a plump oyster that was smothered in a smooth and tangy sauce of fermented rice and crowned with a dollop of salty caviar.
As we savoured the oyster, we sipped a very cold 2022 Domaine Nathalie & Giles Fevre, Mont de Milieu, Chablis, 1er Cru—a Chablis from Burgundy in France. The wine had a beautiful golden hue, but it did not initially impress us. However, as it reached a warmer temperature, it revealed a subtle and refined aroma. On the palate, it balanced richness and minerality.
We were warned to be careful with our next dish: Steamed Bun and Shitaki with Cultured Cream. It looked like a soup dumpling, but instead of a juicy broth, it had a soft and creamy mushroom filling that could ooze out with a bite. The bun had a crisp and bread-like crust contrasting with the smooth and savoury filling. It reminded us of a choux pastry filled with cream but with a mushroom twist. We dipped it in the cultured cream sauce that came with it and enjoyed every bite.
With this dish came the 2018 Domaine Richoux Irancy, our first red of the night and a tasty Pinot Noir that matched the mushroom’s earthy flavour. The wine smelled of strawberry, kirsch, and pepper, with a faint touch of smoke. It felt full but light on the tongue, with crisp tannins. It ended with a smooth and graceful aftertaste.
The next dish was a new one to me: Okonomiyaki with Winter Truffles and Cabbage. Okonomiyaki is a savoury Japanese pancake that some call a “Japanese pizza” or “Osaka soul food”. It is made by frying a batter and other ingredients on a teppan, then cutting it with metal spatulas. But this time, the pancake was small, delicate, and topped with slices of winter truffle.
To complement the Okonomiyaki, we enjoyed a glass of 2020 Domaine Chevillon Chezeaux Aux Champs Perdrix Premier Cru Nuits St Georges. This wine comes from a small but renowned vineyard in the Côte de Nuits, the northern part of the famous Côte d’Or. The vineyard lies on the forest’s edge, at the highest point where the golden slope can grow grapes. The Pinot Noir tasted of soft tannins with crisp acidity and abundant red fruits such as strawberry, cherry, and raspberry. It also has a touch of oak, with notes of vanilla and cloves.
The Red Snapper’ Binchotan’ was our second-to-last main course. The fish had been grilled over Japanese binchotan coals, an ancient technique that uses metal skewers to hold the fish over a charcoal grill. A layer of charred leek gave it a smoky flavour, but I thought the fish remained a little too firm for my liking. The Beurreblanc sauce, on the other hand, was divine. Chef Isaksson is known for his mastery of sauces, and this one was no exception. I didn’t leave a drop on my plate.
It paired perfectly with the 2019 Domainee Joseph Roty Marsannay, another excellent choice by our sommelier. Marsannay is France’s most northern appellation of the Côte de Nuits sub-region of Burgundy. This wine dazzled with its bright and intense colour and aroma, revealing layers of dark fruit, blackberry, and a touch of oak. With a well-balanced and structured body, the wine felt medium-bodied on the palate. The tannins were smooth and firm, creating a long and graceful finish.
The Marsannay wine also worked well alongside our grand finale, BBQ Quail ‘Farci’, a delightful dish featuring stuffed quail breast, turnip fondant, and a whimsical touch of bouquet fumée. The presentation was elegant: delicate strips of daikon, meticulously arranged to resemble a tiny white rosebud, graced the plate. Atop a flawless disc of fondant turnip, the quail took centre stage. But the glossy, transparent sauce stole my heart—a symphony of flavours that left me yearning for more.
Dessert
To conclude, a glass of Tokaji Aszu, 5 Puttonyos, accompanied our dessert. Tokaji Aszú is a sweet and sumptuous wine from Hungary and Slovakia, made partly with grapes infected by a rare and beneficial mould called Botrytis Cinerea. This mould dries the grapes, making them sweeter and more aromatic. Tokaji Aszú’s sweetness is rated by the Puttonyos scale, which used to count how many baskets of dried grapes, called Aszú, were blended into a barrel of wine. Now, the scale counts how much sugar is left in the wine after fermentation, with more Puttonyos meaning more sweetness. Tokaji Aszú must have at least five Puttonyos, or 120g/L of sugar, to be called by that name.
The Tokaji Aszú paired wonderfully with our fresh frozen coconut dessert, which came with pineapple caramel sauce and French toast. The vibrant sauce provided a perfect balance, countering the caramel’s sweetness and complementing the richness of the creamy frozen coconut. Additionally, I adored the individual little French toast pieces adorned with charming flowers.
Simply Scandinavian Menu Review
Dining at the Mandarin Grill with friends, family, or a loved one always fosters an atmosphere of celebration and cherished memories. This establishment remains a personal favourite because of the warm welcome, attentive service, and exceptional quality. The Simply Scandinavian event, featuring the creations of renowned Chef Sayan Isaksson, is an interesting look into what’s hot in Sweden. However, and perhaps more exciting in the long term, is the expert wine pairing at an approachable price at the MO Grill. Some truly exceptional wines are offered here, many of which are of limited allocation in the country, and they are refreshingly affordable.
Reasons to try the Simply Scandinavian Menu at the Mandarin Grill: A chance to try Chef Sayan Isaksson’s cuisine without having to fly to Sweden; lovely setting and service by the MO staff; an exceptional wine pairing that is reasonably priced.
Mandarin Grill
Italian Restaurant at Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur
Kuala Lumpur City Centre, 50088 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
+6 03-2330 8798
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