Meat Feds, Taman Paramount
Words: Monica Tindall
Photos: Rich Callahan
Chef Yenni Law has long been known as a purveyor of cooking special steak cuts. From her 17 years running Meatology to her recent two-year anniversary at Meat Feds, her reputation remains strong. Her work is complemented by Chef Shelly Saw, who has also racked up some years on the grill. And to make the package even sweeter, a third partner is found in Psychotic Operator, a wine bar sharing the same space run by Daniel Chan.
Meat Feds is, well, unapologetically meaty! Celebrating lesser-known cuts of meat, the menu is a testament to the skill of the chefs. Different cuts require distinct cooking methods, and here we see that Yenni and Sally have mastered them all. While it’s unquestionably a non-halal menu, diners can expect to find a few fish and poultry offerings amongst the pork, beef and lamb that dominate.
While we’re eager to dive into the food menu, we first whet our appetites with a tipple from Psychotic Operator.
Psychotic Operator Wine Bar
Meat Feds runs in partnership with Psychotic Operator wine bar. With a tagline, “seriously not serious wine bar,” we know we’re in for a good time. A quick browse of their menu is like looking through a kaleidoscope with their vibrant collection of funky labels. Under a wine-importing business, they can import a fantastic selection at excellent prices. Their goal with this space is to provide a variety of boutique labels from around the world at accessible prices. Apart from a handful, most of the bottles on the shelves are not readily found elsewhere. Conventional, organic, sustainable, biodynamic and natural wines ensure something for every taste.
We start with an Albariño, Diluvio by Bodegas Abanico (RM 154 bottle, RM 32 glass) from Rias Biaxes in Galicia – the world capital for this grape. While it’s a young drop, 2021, it’s a significant pale gold in the glass. Typical floral and tropical fruit aromas are found on the nose, leading to more fruit and citrus on the palate, tapering out to a spirited finish. This one is both a quaffer and a great food, mate.
The trend in Australia to detour from tradition has paid off well with Hither & Yon’s Nero D’Avola (RM 178 bottle, RM 32 glass). Its deep purple precedes a bouquet of dark berries, nuts and light spice. A medium body, fine tannins and juicy finish make it a flawless partner to our meaty mains.
Meat Feds Menu
As mentioned earlier, there’s more than land creatures to Meat Feds, and to prove it, we begin with a duo of recipes from the sea. The Tuna Balls (RM 48+) are made from marinated Saku AA tuna combined with pickled onion, yuzu puree and sea grapes. Served in pani puri spheres, there’s a nice crunch on the outside, complementing the soft fish filling.
Japanese influence shines through to round two with the Clam Gem (RM 33+). Japanese clams and chunky Swiss brown mushrooms are gently stewed in a creamy, spicy white wine sauce seasoned with Asian spice. Plentiful butter elevates the aromatic curry leaves, and the cream sauce coats the entire palate. It’s so good that we request bread to soak up every last drop.
Now that the seafood options have been confirmed, it is full carnivore mode ahead, beginning with the Ham Sap Siew Yuk (RM 33+). This rich pork belly dish has been marinated for 48 hours, producing tender, flavourful meat enhanced with a salted egg sauce. It is AMAZING! Most of the fat has been rendered out, leaving an incredibly crunchy skin – close your eyes, and you can almost imagine a lightly caramelized popcorn. The secret to the crackling is the result of eight years of research. We sure are happy to benefit from the team’s persistence.
Alongside a full a la carte selection, the team at Meat Feds have curated platters ideal for small groups and tasting several cuts side by side. Additionally, they offer tasting portions of their steaks, selling half a steak for exactly half the price. They are serious when they say they want guests to feel comfortable when ordering. Having more affordable choices before committing to a whole steak is very friendly indeed.
Our pick, 4 GYU, comes as a 500 gm (RM 396+) or a 375 gm (RM 320+) option. In this selection, there’s Black Angus Flank, Wagyu Rump MB9, Wagyu Butcher’s Cut MB9 (Kobe cattle but bred in Australia) and Angus Entraña (skirt steak). It’s fun to work our way around the board. We first try every piece naked to compare flavours, then circle back, adding the garlic pepper sauce with brandy, Asian herb brown sauce with cinnamon, raisins and red wine, and smoked salt to find our perfect combo.
While the previous collection came from Down Under, we travel to Korea for our next cow, the Hanwoo Korean Beef Rump (RM 297+). This steak, BMS9 1++, is lean and tender with even marbling. It offers a more delicate and integrated flavour. Once more, we delight in savouring the steak alone and then experimenting with the two companion sauces – cep, cream and brandy, and chimichurri.
Last but by no means least, we unleash our inner Neanderthal with the Caveman (RM 178+). A hefty cut (650 – 700gm) of white Spanish pork tomahawk leans over the edges of the plate. It’s been brined for 72 hours, bringing a depth of flavour right to the bone. Precision is the name of the game here in achieving mouthwatering texture with a 20 – 25 minute roast followed by a resting period of seven minutes before it’s just right for serving. While it might look like a monstrosity, the kitchen team thoughtfully slices it, making it easy to share and enjoy. A creamy side of truffle sauce is tasty but unnecessary with a cut this tasty.
Dessert
If you’re going to indulge, you may as well go the whole hog (or cow), right? Meat Feds’ dessert menu is just as thoughtful and skill-based as the savoury list. The house-made Rum and Raisin Ice cream (RM 9+ per scoop) comes highly recommended, partnered with Fed’s Chocolate Velvet (RM 20+). Who are we to argue? The dense dark chocolate tart is both flourless and eggless, getting its moisture and richness from just chocolate and cream, “just as it should be”, confirms Rich.
Meat Feds Review
We’ve had a deliciously meaty experience at Meat Feds in Taman Paramount. We’re excited about the tasting boards, the option to try half a steak for half the price, the incredibly delicious roast pork, and the fantastic wine selection. It’s an excellent choice for meat lovers. We highly recommend a visit.
Reasons to visit Meat Feds: don’t miss the meat platters; MUST try the roast pork; great selection of boutique wine; casual, relaxed setting and reasonable prices.
Meat Feds
7, Jalan 20/13, Taman Paramount,
46300 Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia
@meatfeds
+60 11-3313 2329
Meat Feds Opening Hours
Monday: 5–9:30 pm
Tuesday: Closed
Wednesday & Thursday: 5–10 pm
Friday, Saturday & Sunday: 12–2:30 pm, 4:30–10 pm
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