Birch KL – Dinner in DC Mall, Damansara
Words: Jacob Weber
Photos: Rich Callahan
Birch really is, as the kids say, “a vibe”.
A signature part of the set-up at DC Mall—and indeed the entire KL casual dining scene—it’s a bustling, beautiful space with a little rustic charm and a lot of natural light. Plenty of greenery, exposed red brickwork, well-worn wooden furniture; it’s all very endearing.
Brilliant for brunch, delicious for dinner, and lively at lunchtime, it’s equally suitable for a weekday morning pick-me-up as a slow weekend session sampling some (or many) of the spirits, liqueurs, and signature cocktails available in the extensive beverage selection.
Birch KL Drinks Menu
We’re here on a sunny Saturday afternoon to work our way through some of the ‘Night Menu’ (Monday through Sunday, 3 pm onwards). And seeing as it’s Saturday, we start with a couple of Birch-branded Botanical Cocktails … just to kick the palates professionally and responsibly into gear, of course.
The Birch Artist (RM40) is a punchy opening that shakes off the weekend cobwebs and gets the taste buds tingling. It’s a fresh, sour, tangy blend of Derrumbes No.3 mezcal, grapefruit, pineapple, lime, orgeat, aromatic bitters, and thyme. The various shades of citrus play very nicely together, and the mezcal brings it all together beautifully.
The Birch Express (RM40) is on the other side of the spectrum: rich, comforting, and velvety-smooth. Coconut-washed Plantation Dark Rum is mixed with espresso, Flor De Caña Spresso, Irish Cream, and pandan to create a fancy espresso martini-style brew. The pandan, in particular, adds a novel touch that you can’t explain but can certainly appreciate.
Dinner Menu DC Mall
Thirsts quenched—for now—we move onto the main courses. First, a Mexican Bean Soup with Avocado Cream (RM38), a hearty and wholesome dish of very high quality. Pinto and black beans provide the ballast, and the seasoning and spice leave a lingering and satisfying heat.
For the sake of balance, we choose the Slow Roasted Beetroot Salad with Saffron Orange Dressing (RM34), a delightful medley of hot-weather-friendly favourites. It’s tart (feta cheese), sweet, crunchy (candied walnuts), light, fresh, and wonderful all-round.
The Birch Hummus Duo (RM32) is served with some of the best sourdough bread we’ve munched on in a while. Perfectly fluffy on the inside, joyfully crispy (is that deep-fried?) on the outside, and finished with a sprinkle of sea salt — I’d order this by itself. The excellent hummus—made with roasted carrots and roasted capsicum—is a bonus, really. (A very big bonus at that.)
We’re feeling a little luxurious (could be the cocktails) so we go ‘atas’ with the Baked Goat Cheese with Truffle Honey (RM48). It’s as decadent and delicious as it sounds, and there’s an unexpected and pleasantly surprising garnish: caramelised grapes with aged balsamic. The burst of complex sweetness and acidity on top of a warm, thick serving of cheese spread generously on top of more incredible in-house bread — honestly, we could just stop here and go home happy.
But we are consummate professionals dedicated to the task. So we stay, and we order some wine.
Birch has an excellent cellar menu featuring some very fine wines indeed, so I leave this decision entirely in Monica’s hands. I’m much better at drinking it than I am choosing it.
For the white, Mon selects a Pouilly Fuisse “Villes Vignes” Viollot 2016 (RM270/bottle), a lovely French chardonnay that ranks a 4 out of 5 on the menu’s “Vivino rating system.” We rate it pretty highly ourselves; it’s smooth and well-balanced, on the dry side, with citrus on the nose, plenty of peach, pear, and apricot notes, and honey and minerals on the finish.
The red is a Jose Palacios Petalos Del Bierzo 2016 (RM295/bottle), another big hitter on Birch’s scale at 3.8. We like this very much as well. It’s juicy and bold, with some acidity and lots of black and red fruit notes mingling with oak, vanilla and tobacco.
We order our first main course at the same time as the Pouilly Fuisse, so it makes sense to go for the fish. But not just any fish: this is grilled Halibut with Champagne Beurre Blanc (RM72). And it’s not just any dish: this is one of those “wow” moments from the first forkful. The beurre blanc and all its deep, rich, buttery fatty goodness is the perfect contrast and complement to the tender, flaky white flesh. Confit leeks, herring roe, grilled bok choy and basil round things off superbly.
The Duck and Porcini Tortellini (RM62) is equally indulgent. Fresh tortellini parcels are generously stuffed with duck and served with porcini mushroom cream and sage butter. Honestly, it could use a little seasoning to balance the intensely creamy sauce (or do without the cream altogether), but we can’t complain about the amount of quality duck meat and pasta on our plates.
And on cue, it’s time to select a steak to go with the red. I love it when a plan comes together …
It’s a tough choice, but we end up on the 100% natural cut grass-fed Argentinian Angus Striploin (RM48/100gm). Not many outlets actually have a grass-fed option these days, so we’re very happy to see one here. You can even customise the thickness of your steak, so you know it’s cooked to order, and there’s a choice of five excellent sauces: truffle jus, chimichurri, tarragon béarnaise, bone marrow butter and black garlic butter.
There are plenty of other dishes to catch the eye and stir the senses on the dinner menu, whether from the charcoal oven or more luxurious-looking pasta, but we’re confident we’ll be coming back to try them on our own time. For now, we need to leave room for dessert.
Dessert
We know the Chocolate Kahlua Mousse (RM32) is the right choice as soon as we try it. Silky-smooth and full of flavour — and a little alcohol, thanks to the Kahlua and Baileys cremeux — it’s a rewarding end to an outstanding afternoon.
Reasons to visit Birch KL for dinner in DC Mall: well-balanced menu with high-quality ingredients, expertly prepared; lots of vegetarian options across starters, mains and pasta; must order the bean soup, hummus and halibut; excellent signature cocktails, extensive spirits selection and a premium wine list; charming atmosphere and attentive service in a comfortable and lively spot.
Birch KL
Ground Floor Jalan Damanlela Lot G10/11
Damansara City Mall (DC Mall)
Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
@birch_kl www.birch.com.my
Birch KL Opening Hours
Monday-Saturday: 9 am–10:30 pm
Sunday: 9 am–3 pm
Find more restaurants in Damansara here and stay up-to-date on the latest happenings in KL’s food and beverage scene here and here.