French-Japanese Fine Dining – Sage Restaurant & Wine Bar’s Revamp
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Han Sen Hau
Within the St Giles Gardens Residences and adjacent to the bustling Gardens Mall, Sage Restaurant & Wine Bar combines the rich traditions of French and Japanese cuisine. Our last encounter with Sage Restaurant and Wine Bar was in November 2021, when Head Chef Don John had recently assumed control of the kitchen operations amid the COVID-19 pandemic. We were impressed by Chef Don John’s ability to integrate his contemporary culinary skills while maintaining Sage’s core French-Japanese fine dining philosophy.
With his extensive experience at renowned venues like Cilantro Restaurant & Wine Bar and Le Petit Chef, Chef Don John brings a personal touch to his dishes. Trained in classic French cooking, he delights in incorporating indigenous ingredients and tastes, adding a unique twist to each creation.
To enter the restaurant, guests can enter from the dedicated St Giles Gardens Residences lift lobby or the Mall between Dome Restaurant and Jeeves dry cleaners before taking the elevator to the sixth floor.
French-Japanese Fine Dining – Sage Restaurant & Wine Bar’s Revamp
Following a ten-month renovation, Sage Restaurant & Wine Bar reopened its doors in January, unveiling a stunning transformation. The once-underwater-themed interior has given way to the gentle colour palate of a Mediterranean beachside garden. Olive green, sand, bleached oak, and sage hues dominate the space, set against a backdrop of pale white. The atmosphere has shifted from a high-tech nightclub to a serene, sophisticated setting, inviting and refined without a hint of pretension.
Newly Openened – Sage Restaurant & Wine Bar’s Revamp
Upon our arrival, Yann, the restaurant manager, extended a friendly welcome. He eagerly guided us through the newly unveiled bar area, boasting a sleek green marble countertop. Above it, a delicate glass light installation hovers, casting a soft glow under the reflective ceiling. It’s the perfect spot to gather with friends over selections from their comprehensive wine and cocktail menu before transitioning to the main dining space. There are a range of seating options within the spacious restaurant, including snug, curved booths upholstered in olive green velvet, surrounding dark marble tables to more traditional seating arrangements with plush velvet upholstered chairs, and tables dressed in crisp white linens, all set against the backdrop of grand floor-to-ceiling windows. The fluted wooden panelling, an eye-catching design element, also plays a crucial role in sound absorption, akin to materials used in recording studios, ensuring a tranquil dining atmosphere free from the intrusive noise often found in contemporary eateries. Two attractive private dining rooms are available for private celebrations or corporate entertaining.
Caviar Bumps
As I mentioned, the restaurant’s reputation for fine dining and crisp tablecloths might suggest a rather formal atmosphere, but that’s not the case here. This was evident when, after settling into our booth, Yann offered us the chance to try a ‘Caviar Bump’ (RM 98) served with a chilled shot of premium Grey Goose Vodka (or a Mocktail if you would prefer). A spoonful of caviar is placed on the back of our hands, at the base of our thumbs. Yann then invited us to lick the caviar off our hand before taking the vodka shot, reminiscent of the ritual accompanying a tequila shot—licking the salt right after. The caviar is from the Giaveri brand, harvested from the North American white sturgeon, the largest of its kind, boasting enticing grains with a distinctive charcoal grey to black colour.
Kicking off our meal with a shot of vodka was a ‘spirited’ choice, which Monica approved of, convinced it’s a boon to any dinner party. The caviar’s briny flavour promised to bookend our culinary experience, though I’m perhaps getting a little ahead of myself. There was an array of tasty courses to savour before reaching the unexpected salty twist in our dessert.
Bread
The caviar and vodka shot certainly whetted our appetites, and just in time, a basket containing warm, sliced baguette arrived at our table. Accompanying it was a strikingly green basil oil dip dish enriched with parmesan and olive oil. Its deep green hue and aromatic scent were perfect for mopping up with the bread, and with a personal bowl for each of us, there was no concern about ‘double dipping’!
Sage Restaurant Wine List
There is an extensive selection of wines from around the globe, including affordable non-vintage options and premium selections from renowned wineries, perfect for enthusiasts. Additionally, there are various spirits, soft drinks, cocktails, and mocktails. Today, we began with “The Starlet” Sauvignon Blanc from Misha’s Vineyard in New Zealand (RM 360 for a bottle, RM 180 for a carafe). This wine complements fresh and grilled seafood, appetisers, salads, vegetables, and white meats. It’s characterised by its fresh, fruity taste and a citrusy finish and is best enjoyed well-chilled. I appreciated it being available in a carafe, especially in Malaysia’s warm climate. With its thinner glass, a carafe cools down faster than a bottle in an ice bucket.
For our main courses, we chose an approachable red wine, Caparzo Toscana (RM 163 for a carafe, RM 326 for a bottle), a delightful Sangiovese from Tuscany. This wine boasts a medium body, complemented by a succulent and velvety texture enhanced by delicate tannins. Its friendly and inviting character made it an excellent match for our poultry and red meat dishes.
Kobe Carpaccio
Our meal began with an early highlight – the Kobe Carpaccio adorned with Black Truffle and Condiments (RM 118). I confided in Monica that I seldom opt for carpaccio when dining out, as past experiences with improperly prepared versions left me gnawing on overly large or tough chunks of beef. However, my concerns were unfounded here. The Kobe beef, a premium selection, was thinly sliced to perfection. Served on pristine white China, the carpaccio was garnished with finely sliced black truffle, tiny croutons, chives, micro herbs, and delicate flowers, offering a taste akin to beef-flavoured butter with an exceptionally creamy texture.
Smoked Octopus
Chef Don John revealed that the inspiration for the upcoming dish stemmed from his travels to Bali. There, he savoured a similar delicacy and later tailored it to fit the menu at Sage. The dish in question is the Smoked Octopus, accompanied by Brandy Aioli and Caviar (RM 98). The octopus presents a rich, smoky flavour with a sticky exterior. Its texture is perfectly balanced—firm yet tender, avoiding the common pitfalls of chewiness or rubberiness that can mar improperly cooked octopus. Enveloped in a shimmering, the dish is artfully dotted with brandy aioli, parsley oil, decadent dollops of caviar and crisply fried flat-leaf parsley. Since the restaurant’s reopening, this dish has proven popular among patrons, swiftly becoming a menu highlight.
Roasted Free-range Chicken
The following dish, the Roasted Free-range Chicken with Cep Cream and Truffle (RM 128), showcases a duo of chicken breast and thigh, each prepared differently. The thigh undergoes a salt-baking process, which renders its richer meat succulent and juicy beneath a layer of crisp, savoury skin. Meanwhile, the breast is first cooked sous-vide to retain its moisture, followed by a brief roasting for that perfect crispy skin, ensuring it remains tender without any dryness—a common concern when preparing chicken breast. This meticulous method involves slow cooking with the bone for 2.5 hours, allowing a gentle heat distribution. The dish is crowned with a luxurious cep cream, enhancing the flavour profile with its rich, earthy depth.
Aged Cod Fish
Next, we sampled the Aged Cod Fish and Spiced Cauliflower (RM138). The cod was marinated overnight in shio koji, a fermented grain paste typically made from rice, water, and salt. Chef Don John notes that this ‘ageing’ process enhances the cod’s texture, providing firmness while eliminating any undesirable fishy taste. Accompanying the fish was a glossy yellow sauce reminiscent of a mild curry. Despite its potent aroma, the sauce was subtly flavoured, with just a hint of garam masala and cumin, ensuring it complements rather than overpowers the delicate and prized fish. The cod is perfectly cooked, maintaining a moist translucency within its flaky texture. The dish is completed with seasoned and spiced cauliflower florets, their light charring enhancing the overall flavour.
Mango Granita
Before our main course, we were treated to a refreshing mango granita, artfully presented in a shot glass. This invigorating palate cleanser showcased the tropical flavours of fresh mango, complemented by the tangy sweetness of a fresh raspberry and passionfruit topping.
Grilled Wagyu with Black Garlic and Chitose Corn
During our meal, I encountered an ingredient in the main course that was new to me: the corn in the Grilled Wagyu with Black Garlic and Chitose Corn (RM 188). The highlight was undoubtedly the Wagyu beef, served as two succulent, seared pieces in a glossy sauce. However, what truly captivated both Monica and me was the white Chitose corn. Its fresh, crunchy sweetness, enhanced by a light torching that added a subtle char, was unlike any corn I’ve tasted.
After the meal, I discovered that this corn is part of the Chitose Agriculture Initiative (CAI), spearheaded by the Chitose Group. CAI’s mission is to develop environmentally friendly farming methods, ensuring that future generations can continue to harvest and savour nutritious produce. The corn we were served was grown in the Cameron Highlands using Japanese seedlings and farming methods. It was delicious, and I’ll look for it on future menus.
French-Japanese Fine Dining Desserts
Signature Soufflé
In contrast to the modest servings often found at upscale eateries, Sage Restaurant and Wine Bar offered surprisingly ample portions. Despite having sampled many dishes, we still found room for our desserts, starting with the Signature Soufflé (RM 58). It was wonderfully airy, perfectly risen, yet for someone with a less sweet preference like mine, it was perhaps a little overly sugary for my palate. However, this is likely a rare opinion, given Malaysian diners’ well-known penchant for sweetness. The vanilla ice cream served alongside left no room for criticism. With its smooth texture and visible vanilla bean specks, it was terrific.
Vanilla Ice Cream with Ardoino Olive Oil
Our second dessert, Vanilla Ice Cream, drizzled with Ardoino Olive Oil (RM 18), was more in my lane. This dish featured a generous scoop of that excellent creamy vanilla ice cream, enhanced with a light olive oil drizzle and a sea salt sprinkle. It was a savoury echo of our meal’s start, replacing the briny caviar with the subtle bite of sea salt. The olive oil, a meticulously selected, cold-pressed Italian extra virgin variety known for its low acidity, added a unique dimension. Its sweet and slightly fruity notes complemented the ice cream’s flavour, much like a dash of pepper can amplify the taste of strawberries. Produced by the Ardoino family since 1870, this olive oil elevated and enlivened the ice cream. Having previously experienced this unusual pairing at Sydney’s Poly restaurant, I found the combination surprisingly delicious. The olive oil brought out a silky richness in the ice cream, while the sea salt perfectly counterbalanced its sweetness.
Sage Restaurant & Wine Bar Revamp Review
Our recent dining experience at The Gardens’s French-Japanese fine dining restaurant left us delightfully surprised. Chef Don John’s expert reimagining of his menu and the impressive interior design overhaul have revitalised an already distinguished and celebrated establishment. The ambience perfectly balances sophistication and comfort, offering refined yet approachable cuisine. The generous portions and the friendly atmosphere add to the charm. Playful touches, such as the Caviar bump and a vodka shot, dispel any formality, setting the stage for a memorable meal. We enjoyed selections from the à la carte menu, though the weekday lunch set menu is also a crowd-pleaser. Chef Don John’s shift towards high-quality, local, and sustainable produce marks a commendable pivot from reliance on imported ingredients. The standout Chitose corn is a testament to this initiative, and we eagerly anticipate future culinary creations from his kitchen.
Reasons to visit Sage Restaurant & Wine Bar—French-Japanese fine dining: stylish new revamp, beautiful bar, and pleasant dining area; easy access with plenty of parking in The Gardens Mall and proximity to public transport; well-selected wine list available by glass and carafe; highly recommend kicking off with a caviar bump; must order the aged cod and give the ice cream with olive oil a go, too.
Sage Restaurant & Wine Bar – French-Japanese Fine Dining
Level 6, The Gardens Hotel & Residences
The Gardens Mall, Lingkaran Syed Putra, Mid Valley City
59200 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
+60 3 2268 1328
[email protected]
www.sagekl.com
Sage Restaurant & Wine Bar Opening Hours
Lunch: Monday – Friday, 12 pm – 2 pm
Dinner: Monday – Saturday, 6 pm – 11 pm
Closed: Sunday
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