Poirot – French Restaurant, Khao Yai, Thailand
Words: Monica Tindall
Photos: Han Sen Hau
Sitting alongside Thailand’s first National Park is the last place I’d expect to find a fine-dining French restaurant. It also wouldn’t be high on my list of guesses for dining in an upcycled, beautifully renovated train carriage. However, Poirot is both.
The French restaurant is located within InterContinental Khao Yai Resort, renowned for its striking Bill Bensley design and suites made from refurbished train carriages. Inspired by Agatha Christie’s detective Hercule Poirot, Poirot reflects the opulence of first-class travel within the setting of a plushly refurbished rail car. There’s also a beautiful deck at treetop level overlooking Swan Lake. We highly recommend arriving before sundown as you can catch some spectacular light changes from the patio.
Papillon Cocktail Bar Khao Yai
On top of arriving before sunset, we also suggest planning a pre or post-dinner drink at the neighbouring Papillon cocktail bar. Also housed in an old rail car, it’s furnished with maroon leather swivel chairs, butterfly prints, and softly glowing table lamps. The bar at the head of the carriage is edged with a handful of red leather stools, and tunes from the 1930s, such as Billie Holiday’s I Can’t Get Started, polish off the ambience. Friday and Saturday evenings, see a duo performing live music on the verandah. It makes for a sophisticated night out in Khao Yai.
A handful of signature cocktails is on the menu at Papillon. They’re all Nua Spumante Brut-based and served in flutes. Our first, Platform (BHT 590++), tops the bubbly with Beefeater gin, rosella water, and a fresh rose garnish. Our second, Seating (BHT 570++), adds Martini Bianco with a cotton candy topping over a dehydrated lemon slice. Lastly, The Engine (BHT 550++) adds guava and lemon juices to the sparkling and sweetens them with lemon syrup. It’s adorned with a dehydrated lime slice and fresh rosemary sprig. The flutes resemble the quality crystal in my late grandma’s China cabinet, only brought out on special occasions. It turns out all of the glassware, crockery and cutlery are customised for the restaurant and bar. They really have considered all the details.
Poirot Khao Yai Menu
The team at Poirot presents classic French dining with a menu highlighting fresh ingredients and beautiful plating. The pièce de résistance is their quarterly murder mystery dinners, a thrilling night of food and detective work. While our timing doesn’t coincide with such fun, it’s still a pleasurable evening in the striking setting with delicious food and service to match.
Poirot Wine List
French food without wine would be a sin, right? So, Poirot’s wine list is where we begin. The compilation features some local, old world and new world labels. A decent number of wines are available by the glass, including a couple from Khao Yai wineries. I go with a rosé for my fish, a 2020 Gerard Bertrand Gris Blanc (THB 430++), and Han Sen chooses a red 2017 Fortant de France Cabernet Sauvignon (THB 380++) for his beef. The rosé is pale in the glass with summer berries on the nose, a fresh, elegant palate and light minerality in the finish. The French red is a deep purplish-red with berry and floral aromas. There’s more fruit on the palate, smooth tannins and a medium-length conclusion. Both are good food matches.
French Restaurant Khao Yai
We’re grateful for the assistance of Executive Chef Nirut Pochsalee in selecting our menu. He has some clear favourites and convinces us to order three instead of the planned one dessert. We’re curious to see the reason behind such enthusiasm.
Amuse Bouche
Not long after ordering, an amuse bouche is delivered. It’s a plate of baked spinach and cheese in a potato cup, sweet potato mousse and tomato on toast, and a soft roll with unsalted butter.
Hors D’oevres
Han Sen begins with the Crab Royal (BHT 780++), which the chef highly recommends. It’s beautifully presented with sweet shredded crab meat layered with guacamole and ripe mango. A garden of fresh leaves and edible flowers crowns the top. The edges are dotted with balsamic on a beautiful blue and white plate. Han Sen reports its freshness and lightness as an excellent launch.
Soupes
I dive straight into the soups with French Onion (BHT 420++), a classic recipe topped with a slice of baguette and plentiful melted Gruyere cheese. The beef broth is both thickened and sweetened with caramelised onion. It’s a warm and comforting start.
Plats Principeaux
We’ve heard that diners return repeatedly for Poirot’s Beef Burgundy (BHT 2250++). Who are we to argue? Australian wagyu beef tenderloin, pink in the middle and nicely charred on the edges, is the star of the plate. It’s supported by a generous potato mash, pearl onions, smoked streaky bacon and red wine jus. A bite of steak and a sip of red wine – bliss.
While the Seabass (THB 1350++) is a lighter alternative, it still sports the bold, rich flavours French cuisine is renowned for. Asian seabass fillet is crusted with a crunchy citrus coconut crust. Underneath, the flaky, moist flesh is layered with baby kale. A rich seafood sauce, similar to a thick crustacean bisque, sits on the side, with two juicy prawns, rolls of finely shaved carrot and zucchini, and dill essence.
French Desserts
When we reach desserts, we can see why Chef Nirut was so keen for us to try more than one. They’re all beautifully plated, elegant, edible works of art.
The first, Lemon Mille Feuille (THB 540++), is an irresistible display of luscious lemon curd layers between puff pastry sheets with mulberries, mango, dragonfruit and blueberries on top. It’s served next to a scoop of lime ginger sorbet on a biscuit crumble with a gold leaf speckled-tuile on top. The smooth, creamy curd has just the right balance of sweet and tart, and the sorbet is an excellent palate cleanser.
Next, the Orange Crème Brulee (THB 480++) is also strikingly presented, this time inside hollowed-out orange skin halves. A delicate caramelised top gives way to velvety crème brulee. A duo of chocolate madeleines sit alongside, and a sprinkling of edible spring blooms adds colour to the plate. It’s a generous portion, more than enough for two.
Lastly, Chocolate Fondant (THB 520++) is a perfect example of the classic recipe. A thin, cakey shell parts to a warm lava of rich, viscous, dark Guanaja chocolate. A ball of vanilla ice cream adorned with edible flowers and blueberries is a lovely, cool contrast to the warm cake.
Poirot – French Restaurant, Khao Yai Review
Poirot proves that a fine-dining French experience can be found in unexpected places. Every detail is meticulously considered, transporting diners to a bygone era in the luxurious surroundings of a restored railcar in the InterContinental Khao Yai Resort. Pre- or post-dinner cocktails at the neighbouring Papillon bar, with its vintage ambience and live music on weekends, provide a sophisticated prelude or a perfect end to the night. For a unique night out, consider booking a table during Poirot’s quarterly murder mystery dinners, where guests become part of an interactive whodunit. If you’re looking for a sophisticated escape or place to celebrate a special occasion in Khao Yai, Poirot promises an unforgettable dining experience that lingers long after the last bite.
Reasons to visit Poirot – French Restaurant, Khao Yai: unique and beautiful restored train carriage setting; French fine dining; excellent location for celebrating a special occasion in Khao Yai; visit before sundown for a drink on the patio of Papillon bar and exceptional sunset views.
Poirot – French Restaurant, Khao Yai
InterContinental Khao Yai Resort
262, Pong Talong Sub-District, Pak Chong District
Nakhon Ratchasima 30450, Thailand
+66 44 082 039
khaoyai.intercontinental.com
Link to Poirot Khao Yai on Google Maps
*Pet-friendly – fur babies are welcome in the outdoor seating area
**Suitable for children six years and above. The dress code applies.
Dress Code: Smart casual. No slippers, shorts or sportswear. The dress code also applies to children.
Poirot – French Restaurant, Khao Yai Opening Hours
Thursday to Tuesday: 6 pm – 11 pm
Wednesday: Closed
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