Mona Lisa KL – Restaurant & Bar, Chinatown
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Han Sen Hau
Chinatown KL has always been known for its vibrant street food scene and traditional shops. However, it has also seen a rise in trendy bars and modern restaurants in recent years, adding a new dimension to its appeal. One of the latest is Mona Lisa KL, on Jalan Sultan, just a few metres from Rex KL, which opened its doors at the end of June 2024.
At the back of the restaurant, a copy of Leonardo DaVinci’s Mona Lisa gazes down from her frame with her famous enigmatic smile, seemingly unfazed by the two high-definition TVs flanking her. While the screens display Malaysia’s lush jungles and wildlife, Mona Lisa’s expression remains unchanged, as if she’s seen far stranger pairings. After all, this isn’t the first time she’s been in an unusual setting; before becoming a Louvre icon, she spent four years in Napoleon Bonaparte’s bedroom. Mona Lisa has witnessed much throughout history, and this modern Italian restaurant in Malaysia is just another chapter in her storied existence. The old girl has seen some things.
I’d hesitate to refer to Monica as an ‘old girl’; indeed, she seems to be ageing backwards; however, as the founder of The Yum List, over her fifteen years at the helm, she’s undoubtedly encountered a diverse array of individuals and establishments. One such acquaintance is Mark M Nejad, the renowned co-proprietor behind numerous successful ventures, including Brooklyn Bar, Chancellor Bar, and the newly opened Qi bar, a speakeasy discreetly located behind Mona Lisa KL. (We were fortunate to be granted a brief preview of its lavish opium den meets Moulin Rouge opulence).
Mark told us that he had been considering opening an Italian restaurant in Chinatown, KL, for some time. While the area is already well-served by Chinese restaurants, he wanted to offer something different to the crowds thronging the area. Looking around this very stylish restaurant, there is no doubt that he has achieved this.
Under the smart white signboard, featuring a cute Mona Lisa KL logo, an emerald green awning provides shade for several tables for al fresco dining. These tables are popular in the evenings for those who enjoy people-watching while they have drinks and dinner.
Upon entering the brightly lit restaurant, I was immediately drawn to the glittering chandeliers, their opulence contrasting wonderfully with the rustic exposed brick walls surrounding the windows. Beneath the windows, banquet seating upholstered in rich emerald green velvet invited diners to relax and enjoy the ambience. On the opposite wall, a magnificent bar with a polished wooden top stretched almost the entire length, surrounded by stylish copper bar stools adorned with luxurious tan leather and deep green velvet. The attention to detail was evident, from the fluted green enamel tiles framing the bar to the intricate floral tiles inlaid on the warm hardwood floors. The bar was a work of art, backlit to showcase the shimmering bottles of spirits from around the world, each glinting in the light reflecting off the marble. Whilst the Mona Lisa KL reproduction is perfectly spotlit, much is contending for your attention here.
Despite this, we had no difficulty focusing on the cocktail menu. There is no doubt that, whilst being a modern Italian restaurant, Mona Lisa KL is also an accomplished cocktail bar. You could spend an evening here with friends, trying expertly prepared cocktails, sitting at the bar, and sampling some dishes from their Tapas menu.
Mona Lisa KL Cocktail Menu
We began with the Limoncello Fizz (RM 35), a refreshing blend of their house-made Limoncello and soda water. I was pleasantly surprised by its light, refreshing, and well-balanced flavours. After enduring countless complimentary limoncello shots at Italian restaurants, often reminiscent of lemon-scented cleaning products, my taste buds were delighted by this authentic and enjoyable cocktail version.
Being lunchtime during our visit, it was likely the earliest I had ever enjoyed a Negroni, usually a drink of choice for early evening. Monica and I sampled the Mona Lisa Negroni (RM 38), a delightful concoction of Sabatini Italian Gin, Cocchi Torino Vermouth, and Gajardo bitters. Its flavour profile was a little dryer and more refreshing than the traditional recipe.
Next, we tried the Martini D’Italia (RM 38), a blend of Sabatini Italian Gin, Cocchi Dry, and orange bitters, served in a chilled Martini glass. While the menu listed green olives as a garnish, ours arrived with black olives. Whether this was intentional or not, I found their more robust flavour a delightful addition that I may incorporate into my future Martini orders. Our photographer, Han Sen, found the drink too dry and strong for his taste, but I thoroughly enjoyed it. Having experienced far too many “dry” Martinis ruined by excessive vermouth, I was pleased with the perfect balance struck in this one.
Lastly, we sampled the Vermut Tazza (RM 36), a refreshing cocktail served in a tall stemmed wine glass over a generous amount of ice. This cocktail featured Cocchi Torino, Cocchi Americano, Cocchi Secco, ginger beer, lemonade, and fruits. It showcased several vermouths from Cocchi Torino, an Italian company renowned for producing vermouths, aperitifs, and liqueurs since 1891. Mark shared his preference for using Cocchi products in his cocktails, citing their more subtle and complex flavours than the more commonly used vermouths in other establishments.
Mona Lisa KL Food Menu & Prices
Below is a sample of Mona Lisa KL’s menu and prices. For the complete list visit the linktree from their Instagram account @monalisakl_
Starters and Small Plates
Whether you’re seeking a light bite to accompany your cocktails, a tapas-style meal, or starters to a more substantial dinner, Mona Lisa KL has you covered with a tempting selection of snacks and dishes.
We sampled the Avocado Salad (RM 38), a delightful composition of avocado, Japanese cucumber, organic heirloom tomatoes, sweet corn, onion, black olives, pickled radish, oranges, crushed almonds, and a Japanese sesame dressing. Presented on an attractive fluted ceramic dish reminiscent of a giant exotic seashell, the salad was artfully arranged in a tower and garnished with micro pea shoots. The creamy avocado slices contrasted beautifully with the firm, crisp edamame beans, while the sesame dressing tied all the flavours together beautifully.
Next, we indulged in the Lamb Croquettes (RM30). These crispy delights featured minced Australian ground lamb blended with aromatic spices and herbs, deep-fried to golden perfection. Served alongside burned broccoli salsa puree and tangy tzatziki sauce, the croquettes were presented on a sleek grey ceramic dish reminiscent of a giant, smooth pebble and finished with a dusting of parmesan cheese.
Mark suggested we try the Caramelised Tamarind Prawns (RM 35) as a nod to the menu’s more local tastes. While I enjoyed the sauce’s sweet and sour flavours and the succulent prawns, I would have personally preferred them shelled for easier consumption as a bar snack alongside my cocktail, perhaps less adept than locals in getting them out of their shells without a struggle.
Our next snack, the Cheese Cigars (RM 32) – crispy spring rolls filled with a blend of mozzarella, brie, and feta cheese, served with tzatziki sauce – were devoured in a flash. If you plan to order these alongside your cocktails, I’d suggest ordering multiple portions or waiting for the suitable moment, like when your friend embarks on a lengthy anecdote, to ensure you get your fair share.
Main Courses
The Vegetarian Pasta (RM 28) is a hearty and visually appealing choice for those seeking meatless options or reducing their meat consumption. The dish features squid ink pasta sautéed with heirloom cherry tomatoes, broccoli, baby carrots, spinach, and black olives. Diners can choose between tomato sauce or cream sauce. Served in a gold-lined ceramic bowl, the dish visually contrasts the black pasta and the vibrant, crunchy vegetables.
While a few dishes on the menu showcased gold leaf garnishes in the style popularised by Salt Bae, the Turkish chef known for his luxury steakhouses, we opted for a more understated choice: the Black Angus Striploin (200gm RM 170, 100gm – RM85). This chargrilled steak was served with a choice of sauce and sides, and we opted for a creamy black peppercorn sauce and creamy truffled mashed potato. The dish was declared Monica’s favourite of the day, and the truffled mash, which Mark confided contained an “astonishing amount of butter,” was thoroughly enjoyed by all.
While Monica savoured the steak, my favourite dish of the day was the Pan-Seared Sea Bass (RM 42). The perfectly crisped skin of the fish yielded to tender, expertly cooked flesh, which rested on a bed of crisp vegetables and creamy garlic mash. The accompanying shoyu sesame sauce, crustacean oil, and tobiko blended savoury and umami flavours that complemented the seabass beautifully.
Dessert Menu
On their dessert menu, Mona Lisa KL boasts an impressive selection of four different crème brûlées, along with a tiramisu. We sampled the Passion Fruit Crème Brûlée (RM 18) and the Lemon Crème Brûlée (RM 18). Both desserts had a caramelised, glossy shell that yielded a satisfying crack under our spoons. However, I found the lemon edged out the passion fruit version to be creamier and a more satisfying conclusion.
Mona Lisa KL Review
Mona Lisa KL is a vibrant and eye-catching addition to Chinatown’s bustling bar and restaurant scene. During our visit, I noticed countless passersby doing double takes, drawn in by the establishment’s alluring atmosphere. The service provided by the staff was exceptional, particularly from Mahfuz, who warmly welcomed us upon arrival. While we’re accustomed to attentive service as The Yum List representatives, it was noteworthy that Mahfuz greeted every potential customer with the same genuine warmth. The cocktail menu boasts an extensive selection, and the ones we sampled were expertly prepared and delicious. While many glamorous cocktail bars across KL offer food options, they often fall short if one wishes to linger over drinks and then indulge in a full meal. However, at Mona Lisa KL, you can confidently transition to a table and enjoy a satisfying dining experience without any disappointment.
Reasons to visit Mona Lisa KL: Monica raved about the Mona Lisa KL Negroni, while I found the Martini D’Italia to be one of the most delicious I’ve had in quite some time. Han Sen & Ivan (our reelographer) gave the Limoncello Fizz full points. Meet friends for an early evening cocktail, and you may find yourself lingering for tapas or dinner. Then, move on to Qi, the speakeasy bar hidden behind the restaurant.
Mona Lisa KL
78, Jalan Sultan, City Centre, 50000 Kuala Lumpur
Chinatown, Malaysia
+60 10 912 5330
monalisakl.com
@monalisakl_
Link to Mona Lisa KL on Google Maps
- Several vegetarian items available
- Pork-free
Mona Lisa KL Opening Hours
Daily: 10.00 a.m. – 10.00 p.m.
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