Kampunglah @ Raja Laut Kuala Lumpur – Malay Cuisine
Words: Monica Tindall
Photos: Matt Wehner
I’m always looking for restaurants to take overseas guests in Kuala Lumpur. If it’s not their first visit, ambience, service, food, and price are top priorities, with any cuisine up for consideration. However, if it’s an initial visit, I want them to experience a taste of Malaysia without fearing a tummy upset from street food. Kampunglah matches local food and a charming setting in the city centre, opening up a new choice for our foreign friends.
The chef and owners are originally from Negeri Sembilan, south of KL, and they wanted to bring an authentic taste of home to Kuala Lumpur. Kampunglah has been formed from a restored village house. In the past, animals were usually kept underneath the dual-level building, with the family residing upstairs. The restaurant has concreted and glassed-in the bottom floor, making semi-private dining areas. Upstairs is an air-conditioned interior and patio seating, decorated with curios such as vintage typewriters, radios, telephones and even an old Singer sewing machine. Tables are dressed in batik cloth, and various landscapes and portraits adorn the walls.
Kampunglah @ Raja Laut Menu
Kampunglah @ Raja Laut’s menu is filled with recipes from Negeri Sembilan. It’s ideal for a group dining experience with plates meant for sharing. The spice level is adjustable, so state your heat preference when ordering. Currently, the menu is in a Malaysian dialect from the region, similar to but not the same as the Bahasa Melayu you find in KL. They are working on updating the menu to have English translations – perhaps that will be ready by the time you read this piece.
Penyeri Hati – Complements to Other Dishes
We begin with a fresh taste of local ingredients with Ulam Boyot (RM25). It’s a platter of salted freshwater fish, salted egg, ulam leaves (ulam raja, selom, daun kesom), four angled beans, banana blossom and petai (stinky/bitter beans). They’re meant to be partnered with tempoyak (fermented musang king durian) and sambal belacan (chilli and shrimp paste) from Langkawi (the good ones are from Langkawi and Kedah). The variety makes it an excellent intro to Malaysian flavours.
You don’t often see cassava on menus in KL, so we’re quick to order the Ubi Kayu Si Aju (RM12). Cassava has been steamed for two hours until soft yet still firm to the bite. The root veggie can be quite plain on its own, but it is perfect for pairing with sambal. On the side, there are four types – sambal tunis (dried red chilli, fried onion, petai), sambal Kampunglah (soy sauce, chilli and herbs), sambal hijau (green chilli) and sambal balado (fresh red chillies). Grated coconut takes the edge off the spice, and small salted fish add another dimension.
Asam Pedas – Sour & Spicy
Asam Pedas is a signature dish from Muar and a favourite of Chef Ibnu. You can choose to have seabass, ikan merah, with the Body (RM49) or Head (RM70). The sour and spicy sauce is bulked up with tomatoes and lady fingers and adorned with shredded and fried daun kesom (Vietnamese coriander) and torch ginger slices. The fish has not been deboned or de-skinned, but locals appreciate the flavour. However, if you’re used to filleted fish, approach with caution.
Sambal Hijau – Petai Bidin
Before it arrives, we smell the Ekor Lembu (RM55) as the petai, bitter beans, waft to our noses. These beans offer a similar pungency to garlic. The oxtail has been slow-cooked for eight hours and is accompanied by green chilli sambal with lemongrass and bitter beans. It is garnished with selom leaves and red chillies.
Sayur Goreng Santai
The Kacang Buncis Telur (RM18) is one of our favourites. String beans are sauteed with egg and topped with loads of crunchy anchovies. On top of that, there are more red chilli and white onion rings.
Masak Lomak – Cili Api Nogori
The highlight of the meal is Daging Batang Pinang Salai (RM45) in a Negeri Sembilan yellow curry. The meat has been cooked for six to eight hours with coconut shells, which gives it a powerful smokiness. The sauce is creamy and spicy, with turmeric and coconut, broken with a few slices of vibrant red chilli. This is the perfect time to take advantage of the free-flowing Nasi Putih (RM4), steamed white rice to absorb the curry.
Kampunglah Drinks Menu
Kampunglah @ Raja Laut KL is alcohol-free. Instead, they have a selection of cool and hot, non-boozy beverages. There’s a special love for sweet in this part of the world, so if you prefer no sugar, be sure to make that clear when ordering. If you enjoy taking photos of your bevvies, the drinks at Kampunglah are certainly eye-catching. The Teh O Laici (RM11) is a tall chilled glass of lychee iced tea with lime slices, fresh lychees on a skewer and mint leaves. Asham Boy (RM14) is a red twin made with sweet and sour plums and topped with sliced green apples, a generous sprig of mint, halved calamansi and whole sour plums on top.
Another vibrant red drink, the Syrup Selasih (RM7) is dotted with tiny black basil seeds and flavoured with coco-pandan syrup. I’m a no-sugar gal, so the Teh O Ais Limau (RM5), iced tea with a slice of lime, is the perfect thirst-quencher for me.
Kampunglah @ Raja Laut KL Review
Kampunglah @ Raja Laut KL is a great place to take out-of-town guests for a taste of Malaysia. The kampung house setting, shared plates and tasty recipes from Negeri Sembilan make for an authentic and memorable experience. They are flexible in adapting both the level of spice and sugar and are working on a vegan menu that will be coming soon!
Reasons to visit Kampunglah @ Raja Laut KL: a great place to take out-of-town visitors, traditional food from Negeri Sembilan south, and a charming kampung-style house.
Kampunglah @ Raja Laut KL
1, lorong Tiong Nam 2, off, Jln Raja Laut
50350 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Kampunglah @ Raja Laut KL on Googl Maps
Reservations: +6012 326 3416 +6012-871 0529
Catering & Events: 011 1196 5791
@kampunglah.my
Kampunglah @ Raja Laut KL Opening Hours
Daily: 11 am – 10 pm
Find more Malaysian restaurants in Kuala Lumpur here, and stay up-to-date on the latest gourmet and travel happenings around Malaysia via The Yum List on Instagram here and The Yum List on Facebook here.