Chocolate Concierge BSC, Artisan Chocolatier & Cafe Bangsar Shopping Centre
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Han Sen Hau
Malaysia’s cacao and chocolate industry has seen dramatic ups and downs throughout its history. However, an exciting resurgence of artisanal and luxury chocolate production could be beginning to revitalise this sector.
Although cacao may have been brought to Malaysia even earlier, the first reports of organised cultivation were back in the late 1700s by the Portuguese in Malacca. Although these initial efforts did not succeed, small-scale planting continued by individual farmers as part of a more diverse range of crops throughout the next century, the most important of these crops being rubber. In the early 20th century, the British colonial government established research stations to discover if different varieties of the cacao plant might prove more suited to the tropical Malaysian climate, laying the groundwork for future expansion. Following World War II, efforts were made to diversify Malaysian agriculture, and attention again fell on cacao production, which showed some promise. It would not be until Malaysia gained independence, however, that the boom days would come when the Department of Agriculture in Sabah set up a research station to develop disease-resistant varieties and improve planting methods.
This investment resulted in the development of the Sabah-Hybrid variety, which produced a remarkable increase in yields and pest and disease-resistant properties. However, there was still much to learn as farmers were new to cultivation and lacked the necessary skills for this crop. There were also difficulties due to a lack of roads and infrastructure, and despite being more resistant to pests, crops were still prone to failure. Nevertheless, the stage was set for the cacao boom of the 1980s, as more and more farmers, smallholders and larger estates took up cultivation due to favourable government policies, subsidies and research, often replacing existing rubber plantations. It was during this period of the 1980s to 1990s that Malaysia became one of the world’s top five chocolate producers.
So, from these giddy heights, what changed? The rapid decline of Malaysian cacao production began in the 1990s. It was due to several factors, including outbreaks of serious pests such as the cacao pod borer moth, which devastated yields and made farming much less attractive. As wealth increased in Malaysia, it became harder to retain workers, who moved to less physically demanding and profitable industries or the less labour-intensive palm oil sector, quickly becoming the crop of choice for many farmers and plantations. The period also saw a great deal of price volatility, making it risky for farmers to maintain their crops as land became less fertile and a lack of investment in regular replanting.
In recent years, primary producers in the Ivory Coast and Ghana have faced extreme weather conditions as a result of climate change, as well as an increase in plant diseases in Africa, which have led to cacao bean prices surging on the world market, reaching over RM 42, 000 per tonne earlier this year. The Malaysian government has responded with over RM 9.5m in incentives to encourage farmers to return to cacao cultivation as crops here have not been significantly affected by climate change, and this reinvestment could see Malaysia less reliant on imported beans.
Chocolate Concierge BSC
Since I began writing for The Yum List, I noticed that the same name kept appearing on the menus of some of the best fine dining restaurants we visited, used by Michelin-starred chefs, his products displayed in the gift shops and in-room mini bars of some of the country’s best hotels and resorts such as The Datai. That name was Ning Ong, otherwise known by the name of the business he founded in 2017 as the ‘Chocolate Concierge’. Since then, Ong’s insatiable curiosity and drive to explore the potential of Malaysian cacao have been instrumental in revitalising the country’s premium cacao sector, emphasising sourcing and traceability.
I was therefore excited to be invited along with The Yum List to check out the newly redesigned Chocolate Concierge premises in the upscale Bangsar Shopping Centre. While the location remains the same (take the escalator to the left of Roberto’s to the first floor), its space has now doubled in size, providing a much more spacious cafe environment. I was immediately struck by the expansive glass display cases showcasing rows upon rows of meticulously arranged chocolates and bonbons. The presentation was so well crafted that it gave the impression of being more like a jewellery store than a chocolatier.
Ning has made great efforts to show the origin and provenance of his chocolate and cacao; there is an educational display case at the front of the establishments showing where the beans are sourced from the terroirs and the elevation, and its importance in the different flavour profiles of the chocolate that they produce. A similar approach is taken with the design of the bright new store and cafe, made with Oriented Strand Board (OSB) panels, a type of plywood that exposes the crosshatch of wooden fibres, revealing the properties that give it strength rather than hiding it behind a layer of paint. Some of the best seats for people-watching are the black bar stools that overlook the central space often used for exhibitions, seasonal markets, and events, perfect for solo customers enjoying a coffee or catching up with some work on a laptop while enjoying a delicious hot chocolate or snack.
As we settled into our seats, I saw a young father engaging his three children and pointing at Ning’s display at the front of his store, which showcased the fascinating journey of chocolate. He gestured towards real cacao pods, once vibrant in colour, explaining their origins and how those pods are transformed into the exquisitely finished chocolates displayed before them. The children were captivated, their eyes wide as saucers as they absorbed the story of these magical beans and tugged him by the shirt to the finished chocolates!
I noticed a similar gleam in Monica’s eye. She has long been a fan of Ning’s wonderful chocolates, particularly his 100% variety. She has always been delighted to see his name on the menu when we visit restaurants with The Yum List.
Chocolate Concierge BSC Drinks Menu
The menu at Chocolate Concierge boasts a surprisingly extensive selection of chocolate and cacao-based drinks. Ning explained that this shouldn’t be so surprising after all. While we typically associate chocolate with solid bars and bonbons, often combined with milk or cream, this is a relatively recent innovation. For centuries, the more traditional way to enjoy chocolate was as a drink, much like tea or coffee. The Chocolate Concierge embraces this rich heritage, showcasing the versatility of cacao through its diverse drink offerings.
I started with the Chemor Passion Frappe (RM 22). I was surprised to find it was made with water, as its creamy texture led me to believe it contained milk—perhaps soy, oat, or even dairy. Despite this, it was light and refreshing, with the passionfruit flavour shining through. The chocolate, sourced from Chemor, Perak, provided a well-rounded finish.
The Brew-Groni (RM 22) immediately caught Monica’s eye when we initially looked over the drinks menu. With its orange twist and ice-filled tumbler, it looked strikingly similar to her beloved Negroni. However, the cinnamon stick hinted at a unique twist. This alcohol-free version, crafted with a cacao husk infusion, had a clean, not-too-sweet flavour that perfectly aligned with Monica’s preference for zero-waste and utilising every part of the ingredients. It was so refreshing that we agreed we’d choose it over iced tea any day.
Sticking with the cold drinks at this stage, we next tried the Matcha Coconut (RM 22). This delightful matcha latte, made with coconut milk and topped with toasted coconut flakes, had the characteristic grassy notes you’d expect from matcha. While I’ll confess that I’m not usually a big fan of those flavours, I was pleasantly surprised to find them subtle and well-balanced by the creamy coconut milk.
If you prefer hot drinks, Chocolate Concierge has an equally expansive selection. Their best seller is the Signature Triang (RM 16), made with 72% chocolate. It is served in a generously sized mug dusted with cocoa powder and topped with one of their delectable chocolate ‘coins’, which slowly melts below the foamy surface. I can see why it is one of their most popular drinks; it’s everything you would seek in a comforting hot chocolate, like a warm hug in a mug.
I enjoyed the Cacao Husk Tea (RM 19), a light infusion brimming with antioxidants and polyphenols. We learned that these compounds are believed to help reduce inflammation, promote heart health, and aid digestion. It’s also a good source of soluble fibre and is naturally caffeine- and sugar-free! I was delighted to discover it was delicious – a well-rounded and comforting drink. It would be the perfect bedtime drink instead of my usual herbal tea, though it’s certainly a healthy and enjoyable choice any time of day.
Something Special for Serious Chocophiles
Lastly, from the ‘Serious Drinks’ menu, we sampled the 3000 BC 100% (RM 24). This is a ‘ceremonial grade’ single-origin unroasted cacao harvested by farmers of the Semai people in Pahang. These beans are grown at the highest elevations of all the varieties available at the Chocolate Concierge, and as a ‘hero ingredient’, they are handled with great respect. After harvesting, the pods are cracked in the usual way; the beans are allowed to ferment for up to 10 days and then gently dried in the sun for up to seven days. At this point, other beans would go for roasting, but to preserve the unique flavour profile of these most special beans, this step is bypassed, and the beans go straight to grinding in stone mills. Ning revealed that these precious beans are currently cultivated under the shade of the rainforest canopy by just seven farmers, all of whom are past retirement age. This makes the future of these beans uncertain, as it’s unknown how much longer they’ll be able to continue farming. The dedication of these aging farmers and Ning’s enthusiasm to bring them to market makes these beans truly special.
From a wooden display case, we were asked to choose a favourite from a selection of beautiful ceramic cups. The ground cocoa was meticulously weighed, and hot water, heated to a precise temperature, was added. The drink was then skillfully mixed to achieve a slightly frothy consistency. Ning told us that long before sugar and milk were added to hot chocolate drinks, it was more common for spices to be added as a flavouring, and here he uses the flower spike of the long pepper plant, which has a sweeter and less intense flavour than it’s close relative from which white, green and black pepper are obtained. It is grated delicately over the top of the drink before carefully placing it in front of us for our enjoyment. It had a nutty, slightly bitter taste, which rounded to a more chocolatey mouthfeel. I think this was one for the real aficionados, like a fine whisky or brandy, although I enjoyed hearing about its provenance and rich history.
Savoury Menu
During our visit, we were informed that the current savoury menu, which included a Peruvian Chicken Wrap (RM 19), a Tuna Mayo Wrap (RM 17), and a few salad options, was being revamped as part of their soft launch period. It’s worth checking with the cafe at the time of your visit to see what savoury options are available, as the menu may have changed.
Desserts
Along with chocolate, a range of cakes and cookies are available, which should keep ardent dessert lovers more than happy. I was keen to try the Banana Loaf (RM 24) after seeing it being taken past our table to another customer earlier. Ning said that this was his own recipe, and his secret was knowing just how long it would take to leave the bananas to ripen to achieve that perfect sweetness and unmistakable flavour. The loaf was served warm, and a generous spoonful of gula melaka whipped butter started sliding down its surface as it was placed on our table. Unlike the stodgy varieties often served in coffee shops, I found it remarkably light. I appreciated the quenelle of ice cream that, rather than being infused with the usual vanilla, had used cacao husk, imparting a subtle chocolate flavour.
If that all seems too indulgent for your palate, the Orange Butter Cake (RM 16) also hits all the right notes. It is perfect to accompany a mid-afternoon coffee with just the right amount of zesty orange.
There are usually three varieties of cookies available at Chocolate Concierge. Ning assured us that his Original Chocolate Chunk Cookie (RM 9) probably contains more chocolate than any of his competitors. It was served slightly warm, and as Monica split it in half so our videographer Ivan could get the perfect shot for Instagram, an astonishing amount of liquid chocolate started oozing out. It reminded me more of a chocolate lava cake than a cookie, so I think Ning might have no trouble defending his bold claim!
Chocolate Concierge Bon Bons & Bars
And finally, what I’m sure you’ve been waiting to read about: all of the signature Chocolate Concierge creations that were on display. Rich blocks of single-origin chocolate showcased in gleaming spotlit glass cabinets, a huge selection, ready to be weighed and purchased in your desired amounts.
You’ll also find gift boxes of various sizes, perfect for creating a personalised selection, as well as beautifully pre-packaged bars in vibrant colours. Ning shared an interesting tidbit: the yellow used in their signature packaging represents the colour of a perfectly ripe cacao pod.
If you prefer chocolate on the sweeter side, start with a lower percentage of cacao solids. But for the true enthusiast, they even offer a 100% chocolate bar with no other ingredients – Monica’s personal favourite! They also have various options featuring nuts, including almonds and macadamias, as well as plant-based and sugar-free varieties, which Ning informed us account for a significant portion of their chocolate sales. These are perfect for those who want to satisfy their chocolate cravings while limiting their sugar intake.
While it was impossible to sample everything during our visit, the Chocolate Concierge offers a convenient Tasting Flight (RM 30) where you can select five chocolates to enjoy alongside black coffee, tea, or sparkling water. It is a perfect way to explore their diverse range. We sampled several single-origin varieties and three unusual tropical-flavoured varieties that caught our eye. Our sample included Pineapple Coconut, Mango Passion and Lime Lemongrass. I’ll have to return to try the interesting Sweet Laksa flavour next time. Monica, however, drew the line at the Durian variety—though if that’s your cup of tea (or should I say chocolate!), they have it ready and waiting! The Pineapple Coconut was my favourite, and Ning told us that the delicate blue colouring was natural and made using blue spirulina, a superfood.
Chocolate Concierge BSC Review
Luxury products, such as those produced by Ning Ong, celebrate genuine creativity, craftsmanship, sustainability, and heritage. When you buy from an individual creator rather than a big corporation that mass produces, you’re becoming a patron of that creator, literally buying a part of that creativity, buying an item that reflects that art, passion and skill. By buying chocolate bonbons or bars of delicious single-origin chocolate from the Chocolate Concierge, you’re helping to celebrate and revive the rich history of chocolate production in Malaysia, which is impossible from any mass-produced bar. After I visited the Chocolate Concierge’s beautifully redesigned premises, I emerged with a greater understanding of the history of chocolate production in Malaysia and the efforts being made by Ning Ong to elevate and preserve this rich history of cacao production and share his delicious premium products with us all. I can see why Monica has been such a fan for so long.
Reasons to visit Chocolate Concierge BSC: If you are a chocolate lover who enjoys the thoughtful enjoyment of a beautifully crafted premium product, this is the place to get your chocolate fix. If you’re having a bad day, I can guarantee the signature Triang Hot Chocolate will put a smile back on your face; it really is a hug in a mug. Monica loved the Brew-Groni, which was light and refreshing, and we all adored the Banana Loaf with cacao husk-infused ice cream. Go along and enjoy a selection of chocolates to find which flavours you enjoy the most, and take away a gift box to give to a friend. Chocolate this good needs to be shared!
Chocolate Concierge BSC
Level 1 (above the main concourse)
Bangsar Shopping Centre, Jalan Maarof
59000 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to Chocolate Concierge BSC on Google Maps
chocconcierge.com @chocconcierge
+6012-799 1156
Chocolate Concierge BSC Opening Hours
Daily 10 am-8 pm
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