Jeff’s Cellar, The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat
Words: Jacob Weber
Photos: Han Sen Hau
What’s the oldest restaurant you can think of?
Something from the 70s? Maybe even the 17th century?
How about 260 million years old?
OK, technically, Jeff’s Cellar at The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat opened in 2009.
But its spectacular setting— a yawning limestone cave in the lush green hills of Ipoh—was formed at the end of the Paleozoic Era.
And you’d think it was formed entirely for this purpose.
This is by no means a novelty. No tacky tourist trap. There may be other cave dining experiences across the world, but none like Jeff’s Cellar.
Jeff’s Cellar – Ipoh
The entire set-up has been expertly designed and painstakingly developed across multiple levels, from the private wine cellar downstairs to the separate bar area upstairs and all the hidden nooks and crannies in between. Wandering open-mouthed around the place, you’ll feel like a young child exploring a pirate’s hideaway and all its hidden treasure. Grand leather sofas, dusty wine bottles and antique furniture all add to the ambience.
The main candle-lit cavernous space is magnificent. Magical. Mesmerising. Soft, warm lighting illuminates the dining area from above and the looming rock face from below. Caves aren’t typically romantic spaces, but this one is practically Parisian.
And it’s genuine fine dining. Everything from the preparation to the presentation is executed with absolute precision — which is all the more impressive when you realise that the food is brought by buggy from the main hotel kitchen, 500 metres away. The ingredients (more on those below) are just as special as the interior. Chef Boon, Head Chef here since 2016, makes sure of that.
Wine lovers—and curious cats in general—must ask for a tour of the eponymous wine cellar itself, which houses an incredible collection of rare and vintage wines. The entire collection of 950 bottles is worth over US$3 million. Keep your hands to yourself and watch your step — if you break it, I assure you that you do not want to buy it.
Jeff’s Cellar Menu & Prices
Jeff’s Cellar offers the choice of two 10-course signature menus (RM725 nett p/p.; additional RM498 for wine pairing): currently the Prélude (fusion) and the Whimsical (Asian-inspired).
We’d voted for the Prélude, and make our way to the upper dining area. The entire dining experience lasts around three and a half hours, so we’re very glad for these comfortable seats. Not that we’re in a rush to leave this place.
Prélude Menu at Jeff’s Cellar
Apéro
We start with a glass of bubbles, a vibrant, fruity Nicolas Feuillatte Reserve Exclusive Brut with pear and apricot on the nose. It works well with the Apéro starter, an amuse-bouche of rice cracker topped with guinea fowl confit, Champagne sabayon and fresh Italian truffle, and fermented cucumber with yuzu pickle in meringue.
The guinea fowl is rich and gamey—no prissy palate openers here, this packs a meaty punch—and then there’s a slap of sharpness from the pickle, with more than a hint of citrusy tang. The fluffy, light sabayon finishes things off nicely, bringing some balance to proceedings, although the truffle leaves a lingering aftertaste.
Diver Scallop
Next, the Diver Scallop is a fresh, briny Hokkaido scallop topped with 9-year-old local sturgeon kaluga amur caviar and warm mussel jus with dill oil. It’s beautifully presented on a pristine scallop shell on a bed of dried sea herbs, which turns out to be hiding dry ice for the final flourish at the table. It’s well-balanced, with the caviar adding salt, the sauce the sourness, and there’s even some freshness from the scallops.
It’s paired with a Gisselbrecht Alsace Riesling 2022, which is wonderfully aromatic and an inspired choice. The elegant and slightly citrusy wine masterfully balances and complements the acidity in the dish. We keep a few drops in our glasses to continue appreciating its glorious bouquet.
Jeff’s Cellar Leaven
The next course, Leaven, is no ordinary bread course. It’s homemade sourdough made with a starter that’s been stored since 2019 (no, that does not mean ‘stale bread’), served with French Pamplie butter and a special Bario salt that is collected in bamboo sticks from the Sarawak Highlands and ‘shaved’ directly from the stick onto the butter at the table. For dipping, there’s a balsamic vinegar aged in five different barrels for two-and-a-half years each. Wines that retail at RM1000 don’t get that kind of treatment. It’s so luxurious—and, more importantly, delicious—that you just have to sit back and laugh.
Foie Gras
Balsamic vinegar also plays a starring role in the Foie Gras; this time, a white balsamic vinaigrette combines perfectly with a yuzu ponzu foam to slice through the rich, fatty duck liver. Caramelised pear comes in for a burst of sweetness, but this is really all about the dressing-and-duck-liver combination that has us raving. Unlike traditional pairings of sweet fruit that some of us find too sickly, this acidic mate balances rather than overwhelms our palates.
It’s paired with a Placido Pinot Grigio 2022, a fresh and fruity white with aromas of pear, citrus and grapefruit, complementing the sauce and pear on the dish very nicely.
Celeriac
The Celeriac is a delightfully velvety veloute of celery root smoked on the embers of hay and then cooked into a creamy cauliflower concoction, poured over coconut kefir, seasonal truffle and homemade extra virgin coconut oil. If it sounds hearty and wholesome and comforting, that’s because it is. Another unexpected combination that works so well — who would think of cauliflower and coconut?
This comes with a Chateau Minuty Prestige Rosé 2022, a crisp and vibrant contrast to these creamy textures with yellow grapefruit, whitecurrant, blood orange and fresh berries.
Lobster
The Lobster course—a generous, juicy grilled lobster tail with an intense sauce reduction—also comes with an unexpected wine pairing: a Banfi Col Di Sasso 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon from Tuscany. It’s full and rich, bursting with black fruits, with subtle smokey hints and a lingering finish.
It’s interesting, it’s ambitious, but… it’s not our favourite. Red with seafood is unusual, and we’re told it’s because of the intensity of the bisque—but in our humble opinion, it brings out the brininess of the seafood too much. I still polish off both the plate and the glass; both are great on their own; we’d just prefer them further apart.
Cod
The Cod is a lovely, tender piece of aged Atlantic cod, cured (and presented) in kombu with a rich miso cream. The fresh, buttery fish has a subtle sweetness to it, complemented by the creamy, salty miso. It’s also paired with a red wine, a deep ruby Château Malmaison 2016, loaded with red fruits and oaky, leathery notes. It’s another ambitious call, to say the least. Still, nothing if not unique …
Remise en Bouche
The Remise en Bouche is one of the more fascinating palate cleansers I’ve had. This sharp and refreshing blend of tomatoes, berries and passion fruit soda is another unexpected combination, but this one is a more pleasant surprise.
Wagyu
The Wagyu comes cooked to medium, per Chef Boon’s recommendation. And we’re very glad we listened. This rich and fatty premium cut of Miyazaki A5 wagyu comes with pomme purée, maitake mushroom and a jus de viande, but of course, the meat is the main star of the dish.
It comes with a delicious Wirra Wirra Vintage Bell Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, a bold red with blackberries and plums to the fore and subtle oaky notes. Now, this is a red wine pairing we can get behind.
Caramel
It’s time for something sweet. The Caramel is a complex and creamy dessert with layers of flavour: goat’s cheese caramel with roasted yeast, porcini mushroom mousse, and an acidic home-grown mulberry. It’s a silky-smooth step forward from the meaty main courses.
Jeff’s Cellar Mignardise
The Mignardise selection—delightful little bite-size desserts—follows shortly after. A glass of Dow’s Fine Ruby Port, with its fresh raspberry and cherry flavours, is the perfect end to an incredible meal and a truly unforgettable dining experience.
Reasons to visit Jeff’s Cellar Ipoh: one-of-a-kind setting in an ancient limestone cave; magical ambience and fascinating decor; carefully curated signature menus with rare and exceptional ingredients; outstanding wine selection; attentive and knowledgeable service; an expertly-managed dining experience.
Jeff’s Cellar Ipoh
The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat, 1 Persiaran Lagun Sunway 3
31500 Ipoh, Perak Darul Ridsuan, Malaysia
+6 05 210 7777
www.thebanjaran.com
Link to Jeff’s Cellar on Google Maps
Jeff’s Cellar Ipoh Opening Hours
Daily 6 pm – 11 pm
Reservation is essential up to 48 hours prior
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