Torito Peruvian-Japanese Kitchen, Banyan Tree Kuala Lumpur
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Han Sen Hau
Banyan Tree Kuala Lumpur opened its doors in June 2018 amidst the Golden Triangle, Malaysia’s commercial, shopping and entertainment hub. Although the skyline constantly changes, Banyan Tree Kuala Lumpur remains one of the taller hotels in the city centre. At night, the illumination from the LED fittings on the upper floors resembles a lighthouse shining bright across the city. The most recent addition to its numerous restaurants and bars, which include Vertigo TOO and Horizon Grill, is Torito. This Peruvian-Japanese kitchen welcomed its first diners on November 2, 2024.
Torito Peruvian-Japanese Kitchen, KL
From the hotel’s main entrance, head to the lift lobby, where banks of elevators wait to whisk you to the 53rd floor. Take a moment to admire the artwork on the wall opposite the lifts, which pictures a magnificent field of red tulips stretching off into the distance. Upon exiting the elevator on the 53rd floor, where you’ll find the main hotel reception, turn right and follow the polished marble corridor. You’ll pass the illuminated mascot logo of a bull and the restaurant’s name as you approach the restaurant, where another large, friendly-looking red bull stands to greet you.
Entering the restaurant, you’re greeted by a sleek white marble bar stretching along one side of the room. On the opposite side, floor-to-ceiling windows offer breathtaking views of the KL Tower and the city skyline. The terracotta floor tiles, laid in a herringbone pattern, contrast beautifully with a vibrant orange and yellow striped carpet. Modern tables and chairs in blonde wood are arranged in intimate clusters for couples or can be rearranged to accommodate larger groups.
High bar stools upholstered in light grey velvet line the bar, perfect for solo diners or those who want to watch the bartenders and chefs at work. Above the bar hangs a magnificent copper and silver light fixture, its metallic discs resembling a constellation of stars or a burst of fireworks.
Dark wood-panelled room dividers add a touch of intimacy to the expansive space. Comfortable armchairs and sofas are arranged towards the back of the room, inviting guests to relax with a pre-dinner cocktail or linger over drinks after their meal. The eclectic décor, featuring the Torito de Pucará symbol and hand-drawn motifs by artist Miriam Omar, creates a warm and inviting ambience. They could perhaps lean a little into a more extensive use of Peruvian artworks and design; however, I loved the emerald green subway-style ceramic tiles surrounding the open kitchen, which provided a welcome pop of colour.
Peruvian food has finally stepped onto the world stage, captivating palates and earning the recognition that Peruvians have long known—their cuisine is truly among the best. This culinary ascension is exemplified by Central, a Lima-based restaurant that in 2023 achieved the unprecedented feat of topping the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. No one could be happier about this state of affairs than our Editor here at The Yum List, Monica Tindall, who, after living in South America for many years, has long been a fan and cheerleader of its unique cuisine.
Torito by Chef Ivan Casusol
Peruvian Chef Ivan Casusol helms Torito KL. The well-crafted menu pulls inspiration from his hometown of Lima, Peru, and handed-down family recipes from his grandmother and mother. His first job was in an Italian restaurant, and his second was in a Peruvian ‘Nikkei’ establishment, the type of cuisine he continues to adapt and develop to the present day.
Since then, he has also worked several times in Mexico, where he met his wife, a skilled pastry chef and baker. Together, they opened a bakery in Mexico during the Covid epidemic, when travel restrictions meant he could not return to Peru. Having recently welcomed a baby into their family, they were concerned about rising crime rates in Mexico. As Ivan had also had experience working in Asia, opening a Peruvian restaurant in Indonesia for a major hotel group, they decided to investigate opportunities in the region. He’s been in Malaysia for over a year and is impressed with the quality of life, healthcare and safety, friendliness of the people and the vibrant food culture; he’s also become an expert in locally sourcing the ingredients needed for his modern Peruvian cuisine.
Japanese Peruvians, or Nikkei, are a significant immigrant group in Peru, making up about 0.2% of the population in the last census. (The Japanese government estimates a higher figure, potentially up to 200,000 Peruvians with some Japanese heritage).
Their history began in the late 19th century when Japan lifted its emigration ban, leading many Japanese to seek work opportunities abroad. At the time, Peru needed labourers for its coastal plantations and mines. Chef Ivan said many Japanese came to share their expertise in growing rice in the paddies planted in cleared land. Between 1899 and the start of World War II, thousands of Japanese, mainly farmers, arrived in Peru. Despite facing initial hardships and discrimination, they gradually integrated into Peruvian society, establishing businesses and contributing to various sectors, even ascending to the highest position in the country as Prime Minister, in the case of Alberto Fujimori.
Over time, Japanese Peruvians have developed a unique cultural identity, blending Japanese traditions with Peruvian influences. This is particularly evident in Nikkei cuisine, a renowned fusion of Japanese and Peruvian culinary styles. Chef Ivan explained that Nikkei cuisine is a dynamic interplay between Japanese and Peruvian culinary traditions. While the precise balance constantly evolves, it generally involves Japanese techniques for handling and preparing seafood, combined with Peruvian cuisine’s vibrant flavours and unique ingredients. This fusion creates a harmonious blend where Japanese precision meets Peruvian boldness. Nikkei cuisine has been further propelled by the global popularity of sushi. This paved the way for the world to embrace other raw fish dishes like ceviche and tiradito. Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, who spent time in Peru before establishing his global empire, also played a role in introducing Peruvian flavours to a broader audience, further expanding his appreciation for the nuances of this unique cuisine.
Torito Drinks Menu
Torito’s beverage menu is more than just a list of drinks; it’s a carefully crafted collection designed to enhance the flavours of their unique Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine. Chef Ivan insists on using house-made infusions and syrups as the foundation for their innovative cocktails. He gestures towards the sleek marble-topped bar, where a series of glass gallon jars rest on dark wooden shelves, illuminated by recessed lighting. Various piscos are steeping, their vibrant colours hinting at the complex flavours within. A herbal pisco infused with basil, rosemary, and thyme promises an aromatic experience, while a tropical concoction features the sweetness of pineapple. Citrus peels lend a zesty touch to another, and a final jar reveals a surprising twist: pisco infused with almond milk.
Both Peru and Chile lay claim to the creation of pisco, and most historians agree that Spanish settlers developed it in the 16th century. It likely emerged as a way to utilise surplus grapes by distilling the resulting wine to create a more potent beverage for trade and consumption. Chef Ivan told us they have trouble keeping up with demand, and sourcing bottles from importers can often prove tricky, such is its popularity today.
Luckily, there was no shortage during our visit, and we started with the classic Pisco Sour (RM 54) with fresh lime juice. Served in a fluted whisky tumbler, it perfectly balanced the tangy bite of fresh lime juice with the sweetness of simple syrup and the unique character of pisco. Shaken with egg white for a velvety texture, it was finished with a few drops of Angostura bitters over the delicate foam. It was an excellent way to kick things off and probably the best Pisco Sour I’ve tasted this year.
The Maracuya Sour (RM 54) offers a tropical twist on the classic Pisco Sour. The passionfruit puree adds a luscious sweetness that complements the tartness of the lime, creating a pleasing balance of flavours. If you find a classic pisco sour too tart for your palate, I’d recommend trying this one.
Chef Ivan was keen to get our opinion of their signature cocktail, The Torito (RM 54), again served in a whisky tumbler, this time with a large block of clear ice. It is made with Sochu, a Japanese liquor made from grains and vegetables. (The most common base ingredients are sweet potato, barley, rice, buckwheat and sugar cane). It was blended with house-made chilli liquor, tamarind, apple and honey. It featured caramel and butterscotch notes with a hint of chilli heat and subtle molasses flavours that add complexity without being overpowering. The chilli also helps to balance the sweetness, preventing it from becoming cloying. Although a bit sweeter than I typically prefer, I thoroughly enjoyed this drink. It’s garnished with a dehydrated chilli.
The final cocktail we sampled was the Tokio Fizz (RM 54). It came in a highball tumbler and is well-suited to those with a sweet tooth. It features premium Japanese gin, plum jam, and ginger ale, which adds some sparkle and a little zing from ginger to balance the jammy sweetness.
If pisco and cocktails aren’t your thing, Torito offers a wide selection of beverages. Their extensive wine and champagne list features options from around the globe, available by the glass or bottle. For those seeking non-alcoholic choices, a variety of mocktails and soft drinks are also available.
Torito Food Menu & Prices
Appetisers
The Pan De Yuca (RM 32) showcased the chef’s baking expertise, honed from years of running a bakery with his wife in Mexico. This freshly baked bread, made with gluten-free cassava flour and stuffed with cheese, was served with a Peruvian chilli sauce. It was so delicious that we could have easily devoured one each! I highly recommend ordering at least one to share between two people – you’ll thank me later.
Though avocados originated in Mexico and Guatemala, Peru is a major exporter of this “green gold.” While Torito can’t source directly from Peru due to supply chain challenges, they feature similar premium Hass avocados from Australia, Monica’s homeland. Known for their rich taste and creamy texture, Hass avocados are packed with healthy fats, fibre, and essential vitamins like K, E, and C.
The Aguacate (RM 40) highlights the quality of these mashed avocados. Monica was delighted by the dish, which perfectly showcased the avocado’s creamy texture and natural flavour. Seasoned with a hint of chilli heat, red onions, a touch of lime, and a sprinkle of salt, it was a simple yet perfectly executed and satisfying dish. Speaking of dishes, this one comes in a cute, round, speckled earthenware dish with four little feet that looks somewhat like the bottom half of a child’s piggy bank.
Crudos/ Raw Bar
No meal in a Peruvian restaurant would be complete without sampling some ceviche, and we plumped for the Ceviche Clasico (RM 45), which uses local white fish marinated in Tiger’s Milk and served with fried squid and sweet potato. Leche de Tigre or ‘tiger’s milk’ is the marinade where the fish is ‘cooked’. It’s made with lime juice, chillies, onions and cilantro. Peruvians believe this is an energy booster, and it has aphrodisiac properties, which is why it is called Milk of the Tiger since, as they say, it makes you feel like a tiger after you eat it! The local white fish was incredibly fresh, and the tiger’s milk marinade gave it a wonderful, delicate texture. The flavours were bright and vibrant – the citrusy tang was perfectly balanced by the heat of the chillies, with just a hint of onion and cilantro coming through. The fried squid was crispy, while the sweet potato added a lovely sweetness and a contrasting texture. It was such a well-balanced and refreshing dish. If you’re a ceviche fan, this is a must-try!
Like the ceviche, the Acevichado Roll (RM 65) is another classic and delicious textbook example of Nikkei cuisine. Imagine tender, juicy prawn drenched in a creamy, spicy aji amarillo (yellow chilli) acevichado sauce, all wrapped up in a tight roll and topped with crispy onion tempura for crunch. The perfect balance of spicy, savoury, and fresh combines Japanese techniques of handling and preparing fish with Peruvian flavours. It’s a big enough dish to share between two to three people as part of a selection of dishes or would make a delicious lunch for one person.
Chef Ivan insisted we try the Platanito (RM 58), and I’m so glad he did! Our videographer (also named Ivan!) had never experienced tostones before, which seemed like a culinary crime to our chef. These twice-fried plantains were incredibly crispy with a slightly sweet and savoury flavour. They came served with succulent prawns and a creamy yellow chilli sauce that was the perfect dipping companion. This dish was another standout, and it’s the perfect example of why you should always trust the chef’s recommendations.
Sharing Plates
Torito has several dishes on their ‘Cazuelas’ (Casseroles/Sharing) menu that are best enjoyed sharing in a group, ‘family style, such as the Arroz Con Pato (RM 145). Chef Ivan explained his meticulous process: the duck leg and breast are slow-cooked sous vide for 16 hours before being crisped up in the oven. He then used the rendered duck fat to cook the coriander rice, initially toasting it in a wok before transferring it to the cast iron pan, resulting in a wonderfully crispy, caramelised bottom layer. Our photographer, Han Sen, and videographer, Ivan, were practically fighting over the last scraps of rice! The duck was incredibly tender, while the red onion pickles added a necessary acidity to cut through the richness. This dish is perfect for sharing between two to four people.
Side Dishes
Our dish of Udon Kare (RM 40), Japanese curry udon noodles with enoki tempura, provoked a wave of nostalgia for me. I first encountered the unique flavours of Japanese curry while visiting a Yakiniku restaurant with The Yum List last year. The flavours instantly transported me back to my childhood in Northern England, where my early curry experiences involved preparing those sweet and fragrant “Vesta” curry meal kits under my mother’s watchful eye. However, this dish far exceeded my early forays into cooking; the curry was rich, and the noodles were thick, soft, slippery and chewy at the same time, all coated in that delicious curry sauce. The enoki tempura added a welcome crunch. Plus, our videographer gave me a masterclass in chopstick technique – no more sauce-splattered shirts for me!
Don’t miss the Arroz Negro (RM 40), a dish that deserves a starring role. This spicy sautéed rice gets its dramatic black hue from squid ink and comes topped with tender charcoal-grilled squid and kanikama (imitation crab meat). It was such a hit at our table that this time, I was the one battling our photographer, Han Sen, for the last bite!
Desserts
If you feel that every meal is only complete with dessert, Torito has you covered with six unique desserts and six house-made ice creams. We sampled two of them. The first was the Picaron (RM 35), a deep-fried sweet potato, fig sauce, and honeydew ice cream, which Chef Ivan said included a secret ingredient. He challenged us to guess its mysterious component, but despite our seasoned palates, we were stumped! He finally revealed the secret: a touch of blue cheese. This unexpected addition, inspired by the umami notes parma ham lends to melon, enhanced the honeydew ice cream’s flavour in a truly remarkable way.
The Peras Al Sake (RM 35) provided a delightful conclusion to our meal. The 24-hour slow-cooked pear was incredibly tender, its sweetness enhanced by a delicate sake jelly. This was paired with a creamy cheese ice cream and crunchy pecan praline for a clever interplay of textures and flavours. The sake jelly added a subtle, fragrant note that elevated the pear without overpowering it, while the cheese ice cream provided richness. The pecan praline ‘soil’ had a touch of miso, bringing a slight umami flavour to the dessert.
Torito KL Review
Chef Ivan’s passion for Nikkei cuisine is contagious. He generously shared his time and knowledge with us, detailing his meticulous approach to cooking and his dedication to training his team. This passion translates directly to the plate, with each dish showcasing vibrant flavours and impressive techniques. No wonder one diner has returned every night for a week just to try everything on the menu! With its fresh ingredients, innovative dishes, and warm ambience (including charming hand-drawn motifs by artist Miriam Omar), Torito Peruvian-Japanese Kitchen is a welcome addition to KL’s culinary scene.
Reasons to visit Torito KL: Although it’s an increasingly crowded field, Torito is currently serving what may be the best Piscos in the city; you’ll have to come along and find out if you agree. Take in the breathtaking views over the KLCC skyline while enjoying your drink, and order at least one serving of Monica’s fave, the Aguacate. I loved the Arroz Negro, and the rest of the team was battling forks over the delicious Arroz Con Pato. Everyone screams, order a whole Pan de Yuca just for you!
Torito Peruvian Japanese Kitchen
Level 53, Banyan Tree Kuala Lumpur
2, Jalan Conlay, 50450 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to Torito KL on Google Maps
+60 3 2113 1823
[email protected]
Torito KL Opening Hours
Lunch: 12:00 pm – 4.30 pm
Dinner: 6.00 pm – 10.00 pm
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