Anantara Ubud Bali Resort
Words: Monica Tindall
Photos: Han Sen Hau
Even before we arrive at Anantara Ubud Bali Resort, we’re sheltered from the newly developed chaos of Bali. The once paradisical island has recently earned an unpleasant reputation thanks to ill-mannered tourists and infrastructure that has not kept up with the influx. However, the new e-gates (that mostly work), health and customs declarations now done online, and Golden Bird arrivals lounge mean immigration is smooth, and we have no need to play Where’s Wally with our driver in a sea of chauffeurs waiting at the arrivals exit. Instead, our Anantara driver meets us at Golden Bird and escorts us straight to the car.
Inside the MPV, there are wet, chilled towels, cold water, iced tea and chilli-coated peanuts. We buckle up and settle in for the ride. The two-and-a-half-hour journey into the jungle is a separation from the frenzy and a return to the essence of the Island of the Gods, that many so fondly reminisce about.
Anantara Ubud Bali Resort
About 20 minutes north of Ubud, the luxury resort sits beside the lush hillside village of Banjar Puhu in Payangan. Away from the tourist-filled streets of Bali’s most-visited township, we find peace and authentic community connections. On a clear day, Mount Agung can be seen from the lobby but other than that it’s a wall of dense forest carpeting down to a stream we hear but don’t see.
Rooms & Suites
Terraced down the hillside, Anantara Ubud Bali Resort has 85 suites and pool villas, all designed to frame the magnificent greenscapes. Suites start at a generous 53-square-metre and increase to 160 sqm for the two-bedroom pool villas. All are modern with detailed interiors featuring premium quality finishings, oversized bathtubs, walk-in-wardrobes and contemporary Balinese design. Traditional elements like natural materials, open spaces, and handmade crafts blend with modern aesthetics such as clean lines and a neutral colour scheme. Open living spaces and sustainable practices are emphasised, creating stylish yet functional spaces.
We love, love, love our two-bedroom villa with direct access to the lap pool from both bedrooms and the living room. It’s just long enough to do laps, and because it’s not heated, it’s perfect for working out. However, the adults-only and family infinity pools on the upper levels of the resort are both warm if you just want to go for a relaxing dip. I love writing on the balcony with a glass of rosé and lush tropical forest views as my companion. Even in the rain, it’s magical. I enjoy the refreshing cool breeze without being directly exposed, and I feel the purifying air of the water and leaves. The mist rises, resembling forest spirits floating gracefully with the draft.
Even though they don’t get any use, there are giant TVs in all three rooms. WiFi is fast, and we have no problem with connectivity. Each bedroom has its own large bathroom with twin sinks and an oversized tub. Mineral salts and bubble bath are provided! Attractively scented bath products are in reusable pumps, toothbrushes are bamboo, and other amenities are in recycled packaging. Filtered water also comes in refillable glass bottles – two thumbs up for eco care. It takes a minute for the hot water to come through, but once it does, the shower is hot and high-pressured. The mirrored vanities can be rolled open to reveal the bedroom, balcony and forest views beyond.
Five pieces of laundry and a one-time mini-bar (a couple of cans of Coca-Cola and one protein bar) are included in the stay. Dilmah tea and a Nespresso machine allow us to make some hot drinks in the room, but we prefer the hand-brewed bevvies at breakfast, opting for several oat milk lattes each morning. Other thoughtful inclusions are a broad-rimmed hat like those used in the rice terraces, a canvas bag, and sarongs to wear during our stay. Both indoor and outdoor slippers are provided, and the dressing gowns are soft, light and good-looking with Balinese print.
Sounds awesome, doesn’t it? But, that’s not even the best part. Our villa comes with host Dody, who is only ever a WhatsApp message away. He personally checks us into our villa at the dining room table with a welcome ritual – rice and holy water on our foreheads for positivity of mind, spirit and health, a flower for gratitude, and a Balinese bracelet to protect us from negative energy. He’s kind and gracious and predicts our needs before we even know we have them. Dinner reservations, help with luggage, and random questions about the local community – Dody is always responsive and present.
A curious observation is that our feet only ever touch the ground when we step out of the car in the lobby. Built down the hillside, suites and villas are raised over the jungle, with access via steep flights of steps or the inclinator. These hill trams have become an iconic experience on the island and an attraction in themselves. We press the button, and a smiling attendant glides to our station, ready to help us ascend or descend as needed.
We’re mostly going up or down to head out for cultural activities exclusive to the hotel, relax by the gorgeous infinity pools, or to eat – we do a lot of that. With two excellent restaurants and an adults-only poolside bar, we have enough variety to dine weeks on end.
Kirana Restaurant
Kirana restaurant is Anantara Ubud Bali Resort’s all-day dining establishment. It serves Balinese, Indonesian, vegetarian, wellness, and global flavours—unlimited breakfast in the mornings and a la carte for the rest of the day.
Breakfast is my favourite kind – unlimited a la carte orders. Everything is made on the spot, and you can have as much as you want. The portions are decently sized yet moderate enough to allow you space to try two or three items. Fresh tropical fruit, detox juice and a Western and local recipe are immediately on the table. On the mornings of our stay, it’s chia seed puddings, croissant sandwiches, gado gado (veg in peanut sauce) and bubur bubur sum (rice flour cooked in coconut milk with palm sugar). Drink orders are fast, and servers come to the table with baskets of warm pastries… oh, the pastries.
Dadi is the hotel’s pastry chef from Jakarta. He has over two decades in the industry and is responsible for all the baked goodies. From sourdough to pastries, energy balls to cookies and decadent desserts, everything is made from scratch. He brings out pan au chocolate and croissants, still warm from the oven. He says high-quality French butter is the secret to the flaky, buttery layered goodness.
The brekkie menu has wellness, local and international choices. I appreciate the smoothie bowl, vegan overnight oats and avo toast, while Han Sen sings high praises for the nasi goreng (fried rice) and eggs benedict.
We return later in the evening to try the dinner menu, too.
Sambals and a basket of crackers—peanut, cassava, and rice versions—take the edge off hunger while we browse our options. We jump straight to the Balinese dishes, with some wellness recipes thrown in.
To begin, Beetroot and Mango Salad (IDR 215k) is fresh and vibrant with bitter radicchio and a mandarin dressing. Equally as good are the Urap (IDR 185k), leafy veg in coconut and tamarind, and Gulai Sayur, young jackfruit curry with long beans, fried tofu and aromatic spices in coconut milk.
We can’t resist Babi Kirana (IDR 375k), crispy suckling pig, as a main. The flesh is tender, and the skin toffee-brittle. Young jackfruit lawar, babi merah, Balinese pork sausage, bubu guling, and kaffir lime add depth and complexity. We balance the decadence with Labu Bakar Madu (IDR 215k), Tabanan pumpkin roasted in Wangen spices. It’s delicious in a candlenut sauce with sweet soy and kepiduh leaves.
There are even both healthy and decadent dessert choices. On the more nutritious side, Cocoa & Avocado Mousseline (IDR 155k) is complemented by peanut butter, toasted walnuts, and maple syrup—yum! Han Sen’s Plum Frangipane Tart (IDR 155k) is topped with chocolate crumble and Java plum ice cream—also a lovely, sweet finish.
Sulang Lounge Bar
Sulang is Anantara Ubud Bali’s adults-only poolside lounge and bar. Besides an incredibly serene setting overlooking lush tropical jungle with not a child in sight, they also have a delicious light bites menu backed up with a serious cocktail list. Samba and Pachanga tunes make a relaxing but uplifting vibe – I can’t stop tapping my toes to the soundtrack.
On a balmy afternoon, cocktails are in order. We begin with a classic, a good measure of the bar team’s capabilities. A strong foundation lays the groundwork for more inventive craft creations. Our bartender, Adi, aces the Negroni (IDR 270k). He uses the original recipe from Florence’s Casoni Bar by Count Camillo Negroni, which is equal to Campari, Vermouth, and London Dry Gin, with an orange peel garnish. Bittersweet and ice cold – delish. Basics have proven, so it’s time to try Sulang’s craft creations.
Light Up (IDR 270k) is a local take on a gin and tonic, with Balinese cem cem leaves, starfruit and Fever Tree tonic to top up. It’s bright and fresh and, dare I say, better than the original. For a burst of colour, Adi recommends the Drag On (IDR 270k). It’s a mix of red dragon fruit, passionfruit puree, lemon juice, mango syrup, hibiscus Monin (which can be reduced if you prefer a less sweet cocktail), mango juice and vodka. Han Sen says it’s a cocktail masquerading as a healthy smoothie. Lastly, the Arak Adventure (IDR 270k) is a truly local concoction. It combines Balinese premium arak, orange liqueur, honey coconut liqueur and homemade pandan syrup. This is Han Sen’s fave.
Perfect midday munching in between dips and sips, Sulang’s menu has a range of skewers, sliders and pizza. We plump for the Trio of Wagyu Beef Sliders (IDR 245k), fancied up with truffle, teriyaki and spice. Burrata & Roast Peppers (IDR 245k) is a great partner with creamy cheese topped with sweet roasted peppers, grilled red onion, paper-thin slices of toasted bread and a luscious drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Chicken Thigh Skewers (IDR 180K) are easy eating with a fruity pineapple glaze and spring onion dip. Finally, Glazed Mushroom Skewers (IDR 165k) are seasoned with a spicy roasted garlic and eggplant dip. They’re fantastic, easy to manage, poolside munchies.
We don’t have time on this trip to dine at the Lobby Lounge but do note the beautiful location. Double-story glass walls embrace the interior, while low tables and couches are dotted over the open deck. You can even catch Mount Agung in the distance on a clear day.
We also spend a wonderful evening at Amerta, Anantara Ubud Bali Resort’s signature dining location. Ingredient-driven, the kitchen serves both a la carte and degustation menus inspired by the surrounding forest. They have a well-chosen wine list, too. It’s so good that I wrote a separate article about Amerta here.
Fitness Room – Anantara Ubud Bali Resort
The fitness room is a good place to balance calorie intake with output, and with the iconic Made Warnata in charge of spa and wellness, we’re not surprised to find nutritious snacks in the gym. Alongside a bowl of apples, there’s dried tropical fruit, granola bites and turmeric energy balls – you can tell a lot about a resort just by looking at the gym snacks. Made not only hales from a family of priests in the village neighbouring the resort, but he is also a fitness guru, heading the property’s wellness and cultural programs (more on those later). Cardio and strength machines are high-quality Technogym, and while the resistance training options are not extensive, there are several hand weights and adjustable machines – plenty for maintenance.
Anantara Spa
A trip to Bali would be incomplete without a spa treatment (or several). Anantara Ubud Bali Resort’s facilities are clean and serene, and the options for indigenous treatments and healing therapies are well-chosen. There’s a comfortable reception, relaxation lounge and several self-contained treatment rooms.
Our session begins with the shaking of a well-being cocktail. Cem cem, sweet leaves and lemon juice (ask for no sugar syrup if you prefer less sweet) combine to make a refreshing herbal bevvie. Preferences are recorded on a questionnaire, and soon after, I’m whisked away for a Taksu (Charming Aura) Massage, resurfacing 90 minutes later with renewed spirit. It’s an internationally inspired treatment utilising Japanese Shiatsu bodywork, Hawaiian kneading Lomi-Lomi and classic Balinese massage. My therapist is an expert, and her small size belies the strength of her hands. She digs, rolls and kneads my stresses away.
I could stay in the resort for days with plenty to do (or not), quite happily slowing my pace and appreciating all the property has to offer. However, Anantara Ubud Bali Resort’s cultural program is extraordinary.
Balinese Experiences Exclusive to Hotel Guests
In living and loving Anantara’s core philosophy of honouring, celebrating, and respecting local heritage, Anantara Ubud Bali Resort has multiple exclusive experiences for hotel guests. With their close relationship with local communities, we benefit from connections unavailable to the general public.
Fire Purification Ceremony
One such magnificent experience is the Agni Yajna ceremony, an ancient Vedic ritual centred around offerings to the sacred fire. This holy act honours Agni, the revered fire deity, invoking his divine presence. By joining this ancient tradition under the guidance of the Idha Guru, we engage in a practice that purifies our environment and invites divine blessings into our lives. The timeless nature of this ceremony creates a bond between the earthly and the sacred, encapsulating the spiritual depth and cultural richness of Vedic rituals.
We’re moved by the ceremony and incredibly grateful that the community has allowed us to participate in the ritual. We feel welcomed into the compound, and our hearts and souls are full. The ceremony takes around 90 minutes, and there’s an opportunity to ask questions at the end. It does involve a lot of time sitting cross-legged or kneeling in front of an open fire. If you’re sensitive to smoke, I recommend wearing a mask.
Alas Taro Exploration
On another morning, we explore the local community of Alas Taro. It’s an exciting adventure beginning with a 20-minute jeep ride to a nearby village. The journey winds through villages and rice paddies, making picturesque photography at every bend. When we reach the trailhead, naturalist guru Krishna greets us. We walk past temples and a farming community, witnessing how interconnected and interdependent we are with the environment – animals, plants and humans.
It’s not until the end of the jungle trek that Krishna reveals that this is his hometown, and we meet his family – siblings, mum, dad, aunty and grandparents. They’re all involved in gourmet artisan work, such as producing coconut oil, honey and palm sugar. However, the most pressing project is their firefly conservation work, Bring Back the Light.
Bring Back the Light is an initiative to protect the firefly population at Rumah Konservasi Kunang-Kunang. The organisation is dedicated to safeguarding fireflies’ natural environment and increasing their population. They hope to expand their lifespan by better understanding the species’ behaviour and anatomical makeup. The organisation also educates the public about the importance of protecting fireflies.
Fireflies play a vital role in ecosystems, controlling pests as larvae and pollinating plants as adults. Their presence or absence serves as an indicator of environmental health. In developing their plan, the team hopes to create a pesticide-free radius from the centre. Our tourist support is essential in making this a viable project.
To make the most of this visit, wear long-sleeved and long-legged clothing and super-strength bug spray, as there are many mosquitoes. A hat is also advised for the jeep ride, but the walk through the jungle is mostly shaded.
Anantara Ubud Bali Resort has a comprehensive program that could keep us engaged for a much longer period than our three-day stay. Beyond what’s on offer at the property, there’s also a regular shuttle to Ubud town. We’d recommend three nights as a minimum stay but preferably a week or more to fully appreciate the cultural, wellness and culinary offerings while still leaving time to relish in a slower pace of life in a beautiful setting.
Anantara Ubud Bali Resort Review
Anantara Ubud Bali Resort reminds us of what Bali originally became known for. Far from booming beach clubs and crowded streets with shirtless foreigners on motorbikes, it’s a return to nature, community and culture. Stay here for a taste of the true essence of Bali.
Reasons to stay at Anantara Ubud Bali Resort: a trip back in time to the core of what initially brought visitors to Bali; a serene escape far removed from the crowds; exclusive access to unique immersive experiences; comfortable rooms with private pools; heated adults-only and family-friendly pools; excellent food and beverage.
Anantara Ubud Bali Resort
Jl. Raya Puhu Payangan No.88, Puhu, Kec. Payangan
Kabupaten Gianyar, Bali 80572, Indonesia
+62 361 2017888
@anantaraubudbali
www.anantara.com/en/ubud-bali
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