Distillerie d’Indochine, Hoi An
Words: Louise Miller
Photos: Monica Tindall
Our taxi driver reverses back down the dirt path we have just driven along in search of Distillerie d’Indochine. Literally, off the beaten path, in a sleepy part of Hoi An, we take longer than expected to find the entrance. With hindsight, if we’d just lowered the windows, we could have followed our noses as the delicious aroma of sugar cane hangs heavy in the air and would have easily led us to the vibrant yellow building that is home to Sampan rhum.
In addition to having heard great things about the place and the people who work here, we have also seen Sampan Rhum listed on the menus both at our hotel and in local restaurants and so we are eager to find out more and of course, in the name of research, do some sampling.
Distillerie d’Indochine Founder
If there were ever anyone predestined to work in this industry, it is the distillery’s owner, director, master distiller and sometimes even barman, Antoine Poirecuitte. His very name, meaning ‘cooked pear’, originates from the pear spirit-making occupation of his ancestors. Having grown up in France with alcohol-producing grandfathers on both sides and experienced his first distillation at the tender age of six, Antoine tells us that even since childhood, it was always his dream to have a distillery of his own.
So why Vietnam? Antoine explains, with a glint in his eye reflecting his passion for his mission, that Southeast Asia had a big appeal due to its proximity to the motherland of sugar cane in Papua New Guinea and that Vietnam boasts over 150,000 hectares of high-quality cane fields. So, in 2017, after visiting some farms and analysing the soil and the sugar cane, his mind was set.
The Tour
Having learned a little about Antoine, it is time to take a closer look at his distillery. We meet our lovely guide, Hortense, who gives us a detailed explanation of the rhum production process, from the sugar cane harvest to bottling.
We learn that Distillerie d’Indochine works with ten local farms and that the sugar cane is cut by hand and delivered to the distillery within twenty-four hours to avoid oxidation. During the harvest season (from February to late August) an average of eight tonnes of sugar cane arrive every day. We are shown where it is first pressed to extract the juice and then fermented in huge Vietnamese and Italian vats.
We proceed to the distillation tank, Odette, named after Antoine’s grandmother. Such is his dedication to achieving perfection that, for three days and nights, Antoine moves into the distillery and sleeps next to it (or her) so that he can carry out checks at 40-minute intervals to monitor both safety and the developing flavour profile.
Hortense offers us a taste of the Brut de Colonne, the raw, undiluted distillate drawn directly from the column still or tank before any dilution, blending, or ageing—in other words, rhum in its purest form. It is also 72% alcohol, so we brace ourselves before taking a cautious sip. It is, as we expect, intense but also surprisingly aromatic.
Hortense explains how, once distilled, water is added drop by drop, and the aging begins in traditionally racked ex-casques, a whole pyramid of which we see stacked before us from floor to ceiling. The majority are ex-Cognac casques, but there are also second fills of Port, Bordeaux and Kentucky bourbon. Due to taking no shortcuts and using no artificial flavouring, added caramel or sugar, Antoine and his team have had to wait four years for his initial batch of twelve barrels to mature. Currently at four hundred, the next goal is to reach one thousand.
We proceed to the bottling room where local team member, Binh is filling and labelling the bottles by hand. Keeping Binh company is an interesting collection of Antoine’s experiments, or infusions. Amongst the ingredients imparting their flavours into the huge bottles stored under the table are Sicilian lemon, lotus seeds and Szechuan peppercorns. Monica gives me a look I know too well: I am designated taster! No stranger to the heat of Szechuan cuisine, I opt for the peppercorn infusion, and although I enjoy the fragrant sharpness, one small sip is enough, and I feel ready to try the official range of Sampan rhums.
Distillerie d’Indochine Rhum Hoi An
Back in the bar, we are ready for the tasting experience. Placed before us on a labelled mat are five different types of Sampan rhum. Three of the rhums are white Agricole style which means that they are made with sugar cane juice. In addition, there is a Monsoon Rum from a new series made with molasses (hence the dropped ‘h’) outside of the sugar cane season and, finally, a tropical aged rhum.
Each white Agricole style rhum has its own distinct characteristics and flavour profile: whilst the Classic 43% is fresh and powerful with floral and herbaceous notes, the Overproof 54% is slightly citrussy with a subtle pepperiness on the palate. More fiery than the Overproof but also dangerously drinkable and intensely aromatic is its stronger sibling, the Fullproof 65%.
The Monsoon Rum is lighter and sweeter. Contrasting with this and all the others is the 2018-19 cellar series, which, having aged in first-refill Cognac and Bourbon casques, has sweet, woody, and tropical notes.
Whilst enjoying the rhum in the simple and unpretentious bar area, we notice the display of boxed bottles, the cocktail paraphernalia for sale, such as wooden muddlers and bamboo straws (a testament to Distillerie d’Indochine’s commitment to sustainability) and a cocktail menu offering, of course, all of the rhum classics. I wish we had more time to enjoy a Pina Colada or Mojito but our busy schedule beckons so I make a mental note to schedule a visit on my next trip to Hoi An, as should all those who enjoy rhum, aficionado or not.
We leave uplifted by the experience, not just of sampling high-quality rhum but also of learning about Distillerie d’Indochine’s commitment to producing rhum with integrity and excellence. Antoine’s dream of showcasing Vietnamese terroir through French savoir-faire has become a living and inspiring reality that is fully captured in every bottle.
Reasons to visit Distillerie d’Indochine: a fascinating experience exploring rhum production from a super welcoming, knowledgeable and passionate team; excellent rhum tasting and opportunities for cocktails in the bar for those with more time on their hands.
Distillerie d’Indochine
Thon 6, Binh Duong, Thang Binh,
Quang Nam, Vietnam
Link to Distillerie d’Indochine on Google Maps
+84 33 453 5241
[email protected]
Distillerie d’Indochine Opening Hours
Daily: 9 am – 5 pm
The tour includes a welcome mojito, distillery tour and rhum tasting with seasonal fruit. You can try three rhums for VDN 300 000 and five rhums for VDN 500 000.
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