Restaurant JIE: Borderless Chinese – Bukit Damansara
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Han Sen Hau
During my time in Malaysia, I’ve enjoyed Chinese meals from Petaling Street stalls to scenic eateries in the Ampang Hills and Penang’s iconic Nyonya cuisine. These establishments, often simple with their wipe-clean tablecloths and Lazy Susans, consistently delivered good food, typically served family-style. While some upscale exceptions existed in KL’s five-star hotels, I had yet to encounter Chinese cuisine elevated to the same fine-dining standards as French, Japanese, or even modern Malaysian degustation menus, where each course is individually plated and served in a specific sequence. Furthermore, most of these establishments offered limited beverage options, usually tea or beer, sometimes allowing BYOB. Therefore, when Monica sent over the menu for Restaurant JIE, I was intrigued, to say the least. I noted the elegant progression of courses with a wine pairing, and what a wine pairing it was! This was a dinner appointment that I looked forward to with some relish.
Restaurant JIE: Borderless Chinese
Restaurant JIE, situated in the affluent Bukit Damansara neighbourhood, is above Smith Bakery and next to Humboldt cocktail bar. Ascending the understated, grey-tiled staircase to the first floor reveals an elegant dining space. The room is dominated by a series of panels featuring traditional Chinese motifs of peacocks, herons, blossoms, and butterflies in a gold and beige palette, complemented by black slate floors. Soft lighting focuses on the tables and artwork, creating a tranquil atmosphere. Two private dining areas, separated by sliding perforated panels, offer discreet options, with one even featuring a separate entrance for ultimate privacy. These rooms are thoughtfully designed with sound-absorbing, light grey upholstered walls, ensuring confidential conversations. Unlike many modern restaurants, JIE maintains a peaceful ambience that is free from excessive noise. The only sounds are the subtle strains of nostalgic Shanghainese jazz (I think I heard a few tracks by the fabulous Shang Sisters) and the quiet hum of the open kitchen, where Chefs Whye Whye and Kelly, who previously worked at Michelin-starred Robuchon in Macau, meticulously craft a beautiful progression of dishes that arrive at the table in elegant waves. The entire restaurant, including the private dining rooms, seats only 16 guests, and given the preparation time required for many of the dishes, they request that bookings be made two days ahead for groups of up to four and three days for five or more.
Restaurant JIE is the latest venture of Yin-How Wong, a prominent figure in the culinary scene, leading the Vintry Group of wine bars, restaurants, and retail outlets and playing a key role in the Tinkermen Collective. This collective includes diverse establishments like Smith Breadsmith and Cafe, Proof Pizza, Quin, Toji Sake Bar, Dim Dou Duck Restaurant, and Mazi Greek Taverna. Monica and The Yum List have long admired Yin-How and his ventures, particularly his exceptional wine expertise. Indeed, he is studying for a Master of Wine, a prestigious qualification with a notoriously low pass rate, meaning there are only around 400 people worldwide with the qualification. Despite his expertise, Yin-How remains incredibly humble. Our videographer, Ivan, noted his quiet demeanour and softly spoken voice, which created a welcoming atmosphere. He shared his extensive knowledge of the wines engagingly and encouragingly.
Chinese 10-course Menu
Restaurant JIE is in its soft opening phase, offering introductory pricing on its two degustation menus until after the Chinese New Year celebrations. The Shi Menu is available for RM 278++, while the Jie Menu, featuring two elevated dishes with premium ingredients, is priced at RM 338++. Both menus offer a 10-course culinary journey of ‘borderless’ Chinese cuisine; eight dishes are consistent on both menus. An optional beverage pairing featuring seven glasses (one sake and six wines) is available for RM 180++. Considering the exceptional quality of the selections and that all are poured using the Coravin system, the price is remarkable and one oenophiles should run to book. Incidentally, these wines are unavailable anywhere else in KL, as they are exclusively imported by the Vintry Group.
Yee Sang
In anticipation of the upcoming Chinese New Year, Yin-How presented us with a large platter of Yee Sang, a vibrant dish of tossed vegetables and raw fish that symbolises prosperity and good fortune. While I’ve often enjoyed this traditional dish, Restaurant JIE’s version was impressive. Using top-quality salmon sashimi and substituting fresh pineapple and kaffir lime juice for the conventional plum sauce created a brighter, more refreshing profile. This modern twist beautifully complemented the medley of ingredients, including carrots, jicama, purple cabbage, fried yam, pumpkin, shallots, micro greens, lemongrass, lime leaves, ginger, and pickled cucumber, all seasoned with a delicate balance of five-spice powder, pepper, peanuts, sesame oil, and seeds. This was easily the most refined and delicious Yee Sang I’ve ever tasted. (During the Chinese New Year period, this dish is available as an optional substitute for the second-course salmon dish at an additional cost of RM 10++ per person.)
Restaurant JIE House Blend Tea
Although we had opted for the sake and wine pairing, we also enjoyed Restaurant JIE’s house-blended tea, made with roots and leaves imported from China. Jasmine flowers and red dates added sweetness, keeping me sipping throughout the meal.
Clam Congee Heirloom “Adan” Rice
I must admit, I’ve never been a massive fan of congee, so I wasn’t looking forward to our first course as much as the rest of the menu, but this dish might have converted me. Served in an adorable bowl resembling little cabbage leaves, the rich brown stew was incredibly moreish. Although Malaysia’s tropical climate is never truly “wintry,” this nourishing, creamy broth with its tender, briny local clams would be perfect for a chilly evening. Yin-How mentioned that Chefs Whye Whye and Kelly select the best clams from local markets twice weekly, ensuring they are meticulously cleaned to avoid grit or sand, reflecting their dedication to quality.
The congee was paired with a glass of Mizubasho Junmai Daiginjo “Sui,” a Japanese sake from Gunma crafted entirely from Yamadanishiki rice with aromas of melon, Asian pear, and peach. Its rich, creamy texture, balanced acidity, and dry finish complimented the creamy congee and briny clam, offering a refreshing contrast and highlighting the dish’s subtle sweetness. Yin-How explained that sake, with its very low acidity, should always be enjoyed before wine. Returning to sake after drinking wine is challenging for the palate due to the wine’s higher acidity.
Salmon, Caviar, Pomelo
The second course offered a refined take on traditional Yee Sang, featuring an elegant individual presentation of marinated, diced raw salmon. This more restrained approach, perfect for couples or solo diners, retained the classic textures and flavours of Yee Sang while keeping the table significantly neater. It was a feast for the eyes and the palate topped with caviar, gold leaf, and a delicate crisp cracker resembling a stylish sun hat. Larger groups can opt for the traditional communal Yee Sang platter (as we enjoyed earlier) for an additional RM10, forgoing this course. While both options were equally delicious, the individual salmon presentation proved to be tidier than our enthusiastic, albeit somewhat messy, Yee Sang toss!
We had a glass of Mac Forbes 2022 Riesling from the Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria, to accompany the salmon dishes. With a greenish tinge, this pale straw-coloured wine offered citrus, red apple, orange blossom, and honeysuckle aromas. Crisp lime, red apple, orange blossom, and slate-like minerality defined the palate, leading to a dry, refreshing finish with brisk acidity. With classic petroleum notes, this low-yield Riesling paired excellently with the Yee Sang.
Taro Stew, Crispy Taro Shreds, Truffle Powder
Starchy root vegetables often evoke a sense of comfort, and the humble taro takes centre stage in this dish. While potatoes typically fill this role in the UK, where I’m from, here, the taro, a tropical tuber similar to a yam with the starchiness of a potato, is celebrated. This meat-free interpretation of Hakka nam yu kau yoke replaces pork belly with tender, stewed taro in a rich, red tofu paste, topped with a nest of impossibly delicate, crispy taro fries. The dish showcases Chefs Whye Whye and Kelly’s impressive knife skills, transforming this simple root vegetable into a comforting and elegant creation, finished with truffle powder.
With the stew, we had a glass of Muchada Leclapart de Univers 2021, a Palomino from Jerez, Spain. This wine offered notes of green apple, lemon, and white blossoms alongside a subtle oxidative character. Made from a sherry grape grown in chalky soils, it presented intriguing mineral notes. Its substantial body and toasty, nutty, oxidative character complemented the robust taro dish, making it a wine best paired with food.
Japanese Oyster, Sour Spicy Broth, Calamansi
Our fourth course dips between the ocean waves again and marks one of the two differences between the Shi and Jie menus. The Shi menu featured a succulent Japanese oyster bathed in a vibrant, sour and spicy broth, where the sweetness of tomatoes balanced the tang of calamansi juice. For those opting for the Jie menu, a different mollusc is the star, an Australian abalone, or sea snail.
Australian Greenlip Abalone, Huadia, Goji Berries (*Optional upgrade included in Jie Menu)
Australian greenlip abalone, a prized delicacy with a sweet, buttery flavour and firm, chewy texture, was the star of this dish. Braised for 24 hours in a Shaoxing wine and goji berry-infused superior stock, it was served over glass noodles. While I appreciated the flavourful broth and noodles, I found the abalone’s texture to be an acquired taste, preferring the plump Japanese oyster from the Shie menu. However, I’m sure my Chinese friends will disagree.
Cristom Louise Vineyard 2021 Viognier from Oregon, USA, was paired with both seafood dishes. This aromatic wine is fermented in neutral oak barrels and stainless steel tanks, producing a lush texture. This Viognier is a unique project from the winemaker, as the grape isn’t widely grown in the area known for Chardonnay.
Chicken Consomme, Winter Melon, Japanese Dried Scallops
Our fifth course masterfully combined land and sea with a delicate pairing of flavours and textures. An expertly crafted, crystal-clear chicken consommé infused with Chinese herbs and goji berries was presented in a white porcelain bowl with a lid. Beneath the lid, a disc of winter melon cradled a dried scallop, which, after simmering in the consommé, had developed a pleasantly denser texture. The interplay of textures within the intensely flavorful yet beautifully clear consommé was both delicious and impressive, a clear reflection of the many hours of slow simmering required for its creation.
Red Snapper, Cauliflower Puree, Nyonya Curry
When I first saw the menu, this dish immediately caught my eye. Nyonya cuisine, or Peranakan, is a unique and exciting blend of Chinese, Malay, and Indonesian culinary traditions. The red snapper did not disappoint! It was dry-aged and then finished on a charcoal grill, giving it a smoky flavour. The snapper was served with a silky smooth cauliflower puree and a flavourful Nyonya curry sauce. I had looked forward to this dish, and I’m happy to report it didn’t disappoint.
Chicken Wing, Glutinous Rice, Foie Gras, Pork Liver Sausage
The seventh course was a definite standout. Chef Whye Whye and Chef Kelly showcased their expertise with deboned chicken wings stuffed with a decadent filling of foie gras and pork liver sausage, then glazed and smoked on charcoal grills. The result was incredibly flavourful, and our photographer, Han Sen, even declared he could happily devour an entire plate. The dish was artfully presented on a grey pebble in a hay bed.
Our pairing for the chicken wings was a Tenuta Terre Nere Etna Rosso 2022 from Italy, a vibrant, complex wine with notes of violets, musk, spice, and red and blue fruits. This wine complemented the dish’s richness and is a favourite of Yin-How. It was another wine from volcanic soils; we were told that most of the wines are from such terroirs.
White Asparagus, Yunnan Ham, Preserved Radish
After the richness of the previous dish, our eighth course was a study in elegant simplicity. It featured Peruvian white asparagus, gently poached, pan-fried in a flavourful ham stock, and finally presented with delicate slivers of Yunnan ham and a sprinkling of garlic flowers.
Scallion Oil Noodle, Sakura Ebi, Shredded Dried Scallop
Our ninth course offered another point of divergence between the two menus, though we sampled both for the benefit of our readers. The Shi menu presented delicately coiled scallion oil noodles tossed with tiny “Sakura Ebi” (Cherry Blossom shrimp), topped with shredded fried scallops and shallots, and a pot of fiery chilli oil. After thoroughly mixing the ingredients, I struggled to divide the portion equally with Monica, again failing to master the art of coiling noodles around chopsticks with a spoon—a skill our videographer Ivan demonstrated effortlessly. Despite our clumsy attempts, the noodles were delicious.
Sea Cucumber, Shiitake Mushroom, Pearl Rice (Optional upgrade included in Jie Menu)
Presented in a delicate porcelain bowl on a black lacquer tray, the dish resembled pork sticky rice, with slices of Philippine sea cucumber glistening in a rich, chocolate-coloured sauce. A separate little podium held slices of poached yacón, a delicately flavoured tuber reminiscent of apple and celery. Our wonderful waiter, Becky, explained that the sea cucumber had been braised with leek and mushroom for over 24 hours before being served over pearl rice. While I loved the delicious umami flavours of the sauce, I again found the texture of the sea cucumber challenging. My preference leaned towards the flavourful scallion oil noodles between the two dishes.
The penultimate wine pairing, accompanying the noodle and sea cucumber dishes, was a Y. Amirault, Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil, Les Malgagnes 2021, Loire Valley, France. This Cabernet Franc is noted for its vibrant ruby hue, fresh aromas of red fruits and spices, and balanced tannins. Just over a year in oak gives it an attractive depth and maturity.
Ginger Panna Cotta, Lemongrass Lemon Jelly, Starfruit Juice
While I’ve often stated that I’m not a huge dessert fan and frequently skip it when dining out, a well-made panna cotta can always tempt me, and this ginger panna cotta did just that. Although served in a small glass bowl, obscuring the classic wobble, the panna cotta was perfectly set, not overly firm. My spoon plunged through the pomelo juice sacs and lemongrass jelly, drizzled tableside with a refreshing starfruit and sour plum juice, to the creamy depths below, and the resulting spoonful wobbled delightfully. The fresh fruit cut through the richness of the panna cotta, providing a memorable end to the meal.
Our last wine pairing was Joh.Jos. Prum 2019 Bernkasteler Lay Auslese, Riesling, from Mosel, Germany. This renowned Riesling boasted vibrant acidity that balanced the panna cotta’s sweetness and complemented the pomelo. There were aromas of mangosteen and red berries, with a hint of tropical herbs. This Mosel Auslese finishes with a refreshing, mineral freshness.
Mignardises
A couple of citrus-flavoured jelly-style mignardises appeared on a delicate turquoise-coloured little platter to round off an exceptional meal. The smaller of the two reminded me of a favourite soft sugar-coated sweet from my childhood with a bright, citrusy flavour. The larger of the two was smoother, with a more delicate orange flavour and a dusting of gold leaf.
Finally, we were served a freshly brewed pot of oolong tea. We learned that the third and fourth pours are considered the most flavourful, encouraging a moment of pause and reflection with friends and family at the end of the meal. Beyond savouring the tea itself, this ritual allows time to gather thoughts, appreciate the dining experience, and, it’s said, aid digestion—which, after so many delicious courses, was much needed and very welcome.
Restaurant JIE Review
Restaurant JIE in Bukit Damansara redefines Chinese fine dining in Malaysia. The elegant setting with a modern accent on traditional motifs provides the perfect backdrop for a 10-course degustation menu of “borderless” Chinese cuisine, and I’m sure we’ll continue to rave about the exceptional wine pairing for months to come.
Reasons to visit Restaurant JIE: unique, modern, and innovative interpretation of Chinese cuisine. My personal favourites were the taro stew and red snapper. The whole team will remember the chicken wings for a long time! Incredibly good value-for-money wine pairing (all are superb and served using the Coravin system to maintain quality).
Restaurant JIE
73-M, Jln Setia Bakti, Bukit Damansara,
59100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to Restaurant JIE on Google Maps
+6 012-325 0885
@restaurantjie.kl
Restaurant JIE Opening Hours
Tuesday to Saturday: from 6 pm
Sunday & Monday: closed
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