CHARR Dining – The Manor, Kuala Lumpur
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Peter Tan
Typically, a fire on the 47th floor of a modern high-rise would trigger a swift evacuation – a scene reminiscent of the 70s disaster film “The Towering Inferno.” Yet, what if this particular fire was the very thing that was drawing people to the building? Intrigued? The Yum List was recently invited to explore this contradiction at CHARR at the Manor, a new restaurant that opened its doors three months ago.
The establishment has generated considerable buzz for its unique concept: a dining experience centred around a mesmerising, controlled fire. This isn’t your average kitchen grill; it’s a spectacle, a focal point that captivates diners as they enjoy their meals. Chef James Leong and Chef Xing bring an innovative approach to wood-fired cuisine, showcasing a fusion of flavours that combines traditional BBQ favourites with the essence of Cantonese “wok hei” – literally ‘breath of the wok’, that elusive smoky, slightly charred flavour achieved through masterful wok cooking.
CHARR Dining – The Manor, KL
CHARR Dining, located in a soaring new tower, The Manor, in KLCC on Persiaran Stonor, makes a dramatic first impression. After a swift elevator ride, guests are greeted by an entranceway featuring backlit signage, raw brick walls, and a black arched doorway. A red-lit brick tunnel leads to the dining room, walking towards the fiery CHARR logo.
The dining room offers a modern yet inviting ambience. A striking cloud-like light fixture creates a playful focal point, contrasting with the textured wall and exposed brick. A vibrant red curtain adds a pop of colour, while a sleek chef’s table with blue velvet stools invites diners to watch the staff at work. There is an outside terrace seating area with sweeping views across the KLCC skyline, one of the walls has the appearance of being made of barely cooled lava, with red coals glowing just beneath the surface. This terrace area is ideal for grabbing a drink before a meal or enjoying some of the smaller bites from the menu.
Cocktail Menu
The team at CHARR makes several craft cocktails that are as unique as their location. The Pina Taka (RM 40) was an unexpected pleasure. This refined cocktail, made with grilled pineapple rum, melon, and lime, was served in a highball glass adorned with dehydrated pineapple and a skeletal leaf. Its delicate tropical flavours were surprisingly refreshing and subtle.
The Kyuuri Matcha (RM 48) was another pleasant surprise. We often find matcha drinks overly grassy, but this cocktail was beautifully balanced. The combination of lemon-infused gin, osmanthus, cucumber, yuzu, charcoal, and matcha created a vibrant green drink with a surprisingly delicate flavour and a lingering sweetness.
Our final cocktail, the Classic Butter Corn (RM 48), was a clear favourite for Monica and me. This deceptively delicate drink, featuring butter bourbon, grilled sweetcorn with a hint of spice, grapefruit, and a skewer of barbecued Chitose white sweetcorn alongside a honeycomb tuille, packed a surprising punch.
CHARR Dining Wine List
CHARR Dining offers a select list of two reds and three white wines available by the glass. For those seeking a bottle, the selection ranges from accessible options starting at RM 158 to more prestigious choices reaching RM 788.
Monica, a fan of Catalan wines, was immediately drawn to the LaVina Blanco 2020 (RM 42 per glass, RM 148 per bottle). This Macabeo Garnacha blend, produced by Vallformosa, one of Catalonia’s oldest and most prestigious wineries (established in 1865!), offered a refreshingly fruity experience with hints of peach and citrus. It had a smooth finish and would be a pleasant light choice to drink on its own, though it also pairs well with our seafood and vegetable dishes.
To pair with our red meat dishes later in our meal, we chose a glass of the La Fauna De Lavina 2021 (RM 42 per glass, RM 158 per bottle), a Tempranillo-Merlot blend from the same winery. This ruby red wine offered a smooth, medium-bodied experience with inviting red fruits and vanilla aromas. It’s a fantastic example of a modern Catalan wine – expressive, well-balanced and good value.
CHARR Dining Food Menu
Can’t decide what to order? Chef Leong offers a personalised Chef’s selection menu at two price points: RM 250 and RM 350. The menu changes based on the freshest ingredients and daily specials, so chat with your waiter to curate your perfect meal. This is a fantastic option for first-time visitors or anyone looking for a delicious culinary adventure. However, we tried various dishes from the à la carte menu.
Bites
We started with the Pommes Anna (RM 29), a classic French dish perfect for sharing. Thinly sliced potatoes are layered with butter and seasonings and then slowly cooked to a golden crisp. This version had a mild herb crema, briny smoked trout roe, and a sprinkle of fresh chives. It’s a delightful way to kick off a meal or enjoy as a bar snack with a cocktail.
Next up was the Lamb Tacos (RM 24). Succulent lamb was served on delicate corn tacos with mojo verde sauce and pickled shallots, which provided a welcome touch of acidity to balance the richness of the tender shredded meat.
Prepare to fight your friends for the Chicken Wings (RM 26)! These partially deboned wings are stuffed with flavourful pad kra pao minced chicken and practically burst with filling with every bite. They’re so good and easy to eat that they disappear in a flash, so order extra to avoid any arguments at the table. A word of warning: the accompanying house-fermented hot sauce is seriously fiery, so approach with caution!
Toast
The Wagyu Beef Tongue (RM 45) was a knockout. Served on fresh naan bread with harissa yoghurt and topped with a delicate quail egg, it was bursting with flavour and incredibly juicy. Just be prepared for a delicious mess—you might want to ask for extra napkins to handle the generous toppings on this fluffy flatbread.
The Foie Gras Brioche (RM 89), presented on a brick tile reminiscent of the restaurant’s entrance, showcased seared foie gras atop a layer of pandan kaya, a sweet coconut and pandan jam. This was further enhanced with a drizzle of vibrant egg yolk jam and a sprinkle of soy salt. While combining foie gras with sweet accompaniments is a classic pairing, this rendition’s overall sweetness was quite pronounced. A hint of acidity or sourness could have provided a contrasting note to balance the dish’s richness.
Vegetables
I’ve been a fan of the White Corn (RM 32) from the Cameron Highlands since I first encountered it on a menu a few years ago. Grown with Japanese Chitose seedlings and traditional Japanese methods, it boasts a remarkable sweetness, a delicate tenderness, and a satisfying crunch. This dish, elegantly finished with a snowy dusting of Parmigiano Reggiano and a subtle hint of fermented jalapeño, offered a delightful play of textures and flavours. Individual servings are highly recommended if you love sweetcorn (and this really is the sweetest).
The second vegetable dish was the Burnt Onion (RM 23), with a curious combination of Stracciatella, chimichurri, torch ginger and Ikura (salmon roe). I’d been looking forward to tasting this dish after seeing it on the menu. The onion, though pleasant, lacked the intense, charred crunch that a more extended stint on the wood-fired grill could have delivered. Presented simply, the dish leaned towards delicate flavours, relying heavily on the Ikura’s salinity for its impact.
Main Courses
The Whole Spring Chicken (RM 72) is a hearty option if you’re dining with a group. This substantial dish features the quartered chicken rubbed with Charr Spices before being barbecued. It’s served in a pool of sweet burnt chutney sauce, accompanied by a lime wedge. The lime added a touch of acidity, and the chicken boasted a smokiness finished from the crisp, charred skin.
The Catch Of The Day (RM 88) featured saw grouper bathed in a fragrant Singapore laksa-style sauce with pickled torch ginger. While the fish could have seen a little more love from the grill, Monica and I appreciated the Shirataki noodles made from the konjac plant. These noodles are packed with soluble fibre and are low in calories, offering potential benefits for digestion, cholesterol, and weight management. Their short, fat shape makes them delightfully easy to eat (a definite plus for those prone to culinary mishaps!).
Our penultimate main course was the Smoked Duck Breast (RM 92) with rosemary, apple, fennel and orange. Our photographer, Peter, said the duck was his favourite of the day, tender pink succulent flesh which was complimented beautifully by the accompanying rosemary apple sauce and orange fennel salad.
The Sanchoku Wagyu (RM 225) was a fitting finale for the main courses. Despite its high marble score (BMS 7), this steak retained a satisfying texture and bite. The expert grilling on that wood-fired grill imparted a wonderful char and smoky caramelised flavours to the exterior. At the same time, the interior remained tender and juicy, a perfect red. The smoked shallot sauce added a depth of flavour, and the glossy beef jus was a delightful finishing touch.
Desserts
The Choux Craquelin (RM 22) was a visually appealing dessert with its delicate, crackled pastry shell. Filled with a pineapple creme diplomat, it showcased the pastry chef’s skill in achieving a light texture and an attractive finish. While our photographer and videographer enjoyed it immensely, those who prefer less sweetness might find it a touch on the sweet side.
Our final dessert, the Lava Tart (RM 32), was a sophisticated dessert that impressed with its dark chocolate and smoked vanilla ice cream pairing. Featuring a crisp dark chocolate pastry shell encasing a rich, flowing chocolate sauce, it offered a welcome departure from traditional lava cake. The smoked ice cream and a hint of salt provided an attractive contrast, resulting in a well-balanced dessert that wasn’t overly sweet but offered a satisfying combination of decadence, bitter-sweet chocolate, smokiness, and a touch of salt.
CHARR Dining Review
CHARR Dining offers a vibrant experience centred around wood-fire cooking, complemented by striking city skyline views. The atmosphere was upbeat and lively, and the restaurant was packed with diners during our visit. Given its relative newness, CHARR Dining had more hits than misses on the menu, and it has considerable potential to refine its offerings and solidify its position as a noteworthy dining destination in KL.
Reasons to visit CHARR Dining: stylish and modern dining space with impressive views of the KL skyline, both terrace and indoor tables, must try the lamb tacos, chicken wings, duck and lava tart.
CHARR Dining
47-3A, The Manor, 3 Persiaran Stonor,
City Centre, 50450 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
@charrdining
+6017 894 5447
CHARR Dining Hours
Wednesday to Sunday: 6 –11 pm
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