Global Discovery Menu – DC Restaurant by Darren Chin TTDI
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Monica Tindall
Creative evolution often sparks debate, particularly when an artist has established a strong identity. Think of The Beatles’ psychedelic shift or Bob Dylan’s electric guitar embrace – bold moves that, while ultimately celebrated, were initially met with mixed reactions. The tension between artistic exploration and audience expectations (or those of the managers and record labels!) is a constant, underscoring the risk artists take venturing into uncharted territory. Many artists have lamented having to sing the same few hit songs repeatedly for the rest of their careers. This drive to explore and refine one’s craft is universal, not confined to musicians. Just as The Beatles reinvented themselves, and Dylan traded acoustic for electric, painters like Picasso constantly evolved, moving from the Blue Period to Cubism, while Van Gogh transitioned to his signature vibrant style, and Rothko embraced abstract colour fields.
The story is always the same: driven by some inner imperative, the artist takes a leap into the unknown.
And so it is with chefs. They, too, are artists, albeit with saucepans and whisks as their chosen tools. They, too, are driven by that same urge to experiment, push boundaries, and create, which brings me to Chef Darren Chin, a name synonymous with impeccable French and European technique. He recently immersed himself in a study of the regional cuisines of Thailand, specifically in Chiang Mai, his wife’s hometown.
Chef Chin’s exploration of Thai cuisine represents a shift in course, much like Dylan’s electric guitar or Picasso’s Cubism. This “culinary renaissance” has inspired a new philosophy set out on the website of his Michelin-starred restaurant. It is built on exploration, terroir, and a locavore approach. This isn’t simply a change in ingredients; it’s a shift in philosophy, a renewed appreciation for Southeast Asian cooking.
While his foundation in French techniques remains, as he describes it, this new menu is informed by centuries-old Southeast Asian culinary traditions. As part of The Yum List team, I was fortunate to experience this evolution firsthand, eager to explore this new chapter in Chef Chin’s culinary journey and discover how this new influence has reshaped his culinary identity.
Some things, however, remain reassuringly constant at DC Restaurant. The elegant and minimalist dining room continues to impress with its sophisticated and timeless design. Luxurious floor-to-ceiling drapes can be adjusted to create intimate spaces, providing both visual and acoustic privacy. This thoughtful touch enhances the feeling of comfort and serenity. I found the service at DC exceptional; the staff are among the best in the business, providing flawless, faultless, and seamless attention. Dishes emerge from the kitchen with impeccable timing, orchestrated with almost military precision. Like a swan gliding effortlessly across a lake, the staff’s performance appears effortless, belying the meticulous choreography and dedication required to create such a refined dining experience.
It’s worth taking a moment to appreciate the details that elevate the dining experience at DC Restaurant. Yes, the porcelain is pleasing enough, a fitting canvas for the artistry on display. But the glassware! Oh, the glassware. Each stem is a slender wisp, a delicate dance of form and function, with impossibly fine stems that seemed to defy gravity. These exquisite glasses transformed the simple act of sipping wine into a sensual pleasure. While I admired their beauty, I was secretly thankful that I wouldn’t be tasked with washing and polishing such fragile treasures!
Le Menu Global Discovery
As we had opted for the wine pairing with Le Menu Discovery (RM 1198 or RM 2046 with wine pairing), the Assistant Manager and Sommelier, Shawn, started by handing us glasses of perfectly chilled Pierre Peters Cuvée du Réserve Champagne. This Champagne is crafted entirely from Chardonnay grapes (Blanc de Blancs) in the prestigious Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil—sur—Oger in the Côte des Blancs region of Champagne, France. Owing to the chalky soils in which it is grown, this Champagne has incredibly fine bubbles and a mineral-driven character.
We started with the assortment of breads and pastries with caviar butter that DC Restaurant is rightly famous for. The croissant, fermented sourdough, and onion bread proved all too tempting. Although I try to limit snacking on a bread basket, especially before a degustation menu where many courses stretch into the distance, this was an occasion when restraint should not be considered for a moment. You are not often presented with such a quality bread basket and caviar butter to boot, so it’s something to be savoured and worth the calories.
Three delightful appetisers, presented on elegant plates, further awakened our palates. We began with an airy lavash, its delicate crispness enhanced by the rich smokiness of an incredible smoked butter, the deep umami of shiitake, and the whisper of the sea from salted kombu.
The following morsel was a refined mud crab roll, “Phong Kari,” named for its accompanying curry sauce. This roll, featuring a blend of male and female Sabah mud crab, offered a balance of rich meat and delicate flavour. Served atop a vibrant yellow curry, we were guided to gently sweep the roll through the sauce, which added a subtle heat that enhanced, rather than masked, the crab’s natural sweetness.
To conclude the appetiser trio was a petite and elegant tart. Its delicate construction featured two paper-thin layers of filo pastry, encasing a sweet jackfruit relish. Triangles of bright tomato and a generous spoonful of Russian hybrid caviar, accented with wisps of seaweed, completed the presentation. It was so attractive we almost didn’t want to eat it, but we did, and it was delicious.
Chef Chin’s artistry continued with another visually stunning dish. Imagine paper-thin slices of flounder, a delicate white fish, rolled and filled with a creamy, savoury mixture—think of it as a luxurious seafood version of foie gras, made with Ankimo (monkfish liver), paired with meaty king oyster mushrooms for texture. A delicate tomato gazpacho pooled around the rolls, and the dish was topped with banana blossoms, adding flavour and visual flair. A touch of ponzu, a citrusy soy sauce, provided a bright counterpoint to the dish’s richness.
To complement the hirame, we were poured a glass of Luis Seabra Xisto Cru Branco 2021, a captivating white wine from Portugal’s Douro Valley. Its vibrant and refreshing character, along with its bright straw colour, proved an excellent pairing with the delicate flavours of the fish.
French Scallops
Anticipation was high for the following course: French scallops, presented in their shells with some of my favourite accompaniments. Sunchoke (Jerusalem artichoke), Comté cheese, potato, and a luxurious Champagne sauce formed the base, while slivers of fresh black truffle from Italy were generously shaved tableside. The result was a comforting yet refined dish with beautifully balanced flavours. The scallops, perfectly caramelised and plump, were the stars, their delicate sweetness enhanced by the earthy truffles and creamy sauce—classic French cuisine at its very best.
The scallops were paired with “The FMC” from Michael Forrester, a 2023 Chenin Blanc from Stellenbosch, South Africa. Sommelier Shawn highlighted its compelling combination of crisp acidity and tropical notes, like unripe pineapple, which Monica wholeheartedly approved.
Just as music fans crave the familiar comfort of a beloved classic when attending a live performance by their favourite star, diners often yearn for a chef’s signature creation. But like any artist seeking to keep their work fresh, Chef Darren Chin isn’t content to repeat his greatest hits. Instead, he reimagines them. We were fortunate to experience this firsthand with the latest evolution of his iconic “Echo of the Sea.” This cold pasta dish, a mainstay on his menus, is reinterpreted with each iteration. This time, angel hair pasta was interwoven with South African abalone, dried scallops, sea urchin, and the umami depth of ponzu and kombu powder. Having experienced this dish in its many forms over the years, Monica considered this version undoubtedly his best yet.
Seasonal Nigiri
The following course was an exquisite duo of nigiri, showcasing delicate refinement and bold, luxurious flavours. Firstly, a vibrant yellow mound of bafun uni from Hokkaido, its sweet, briny essence amplified by the salty pop of Russian hybrid caviar, rested atop perfectly seasoned rice. The next, a contrasting experience: Engawa, the prized fin of flounder, was expertly seared, its rich, buttery texture enhanced by a subtle hint of green pepper puree that provided a gentle, peppery lift.
Our nigiri was paired with a chilled Kamoshibito Kuheiji Betsu Atsurae, a premium Junmai Daiginjo sake from Aichi, Japan. Made with highly polished Yamada Nishiki rice, it offered delicate floral aromas, a smooth texture, and a clean finish.
Rock Lobster Mi Cuit
The visually delicate dish of “mi cuit” rock lobster belied a surprising depth of flavour. The lobster, barely cooked to preserve its creamy texture, peeked from beneath peppery nasturtium leaves and a white garlic emulsion. While the accompanying yellow crab curry provided a welcome richness, its fiery chilli heat may prove intense for those accustomed to milder French cuisine. The addition of salsify and horn of plenty mushrooms in a fricassee added earthy notes and textural complexity, further enhancing the dish’s bold character.
This course was accompanied by a glass of Azienda Agricola Sciara 760 metri Etna Rosso 2019, a Sicilian red crafted from Nerello Mascalese grapes cultivated on the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna. Shawn explained that this unique wine is aged in containers buried on the vineyard slopes at 760 meters elevation, hence its name. Produced in limited quantities, it typically exhibits aromas of cherry, raspberry, and herbs, with subtle hints of smoke and spice. However, Monica felt that the lingering chilli heat from the crab curry somewhat overshadowed the wine’s delicate complexity.
Coral Trout in Spiced Hor Mok Farce
The menu offered a delightful choice for our main course: A5 Miyazaki beef medallion with bone marrow, artichoke barigoule, spinach, zucchini, truffle Périgord jus, mint, and shallot confit; or Coral Trout in spiced “Hor Mok” farce with pineapple curry sauce and “Bue Kee Zakor” rice salad. Having thoroughly enjoyed the seafood offerings thus far, we opted for the enticing coral trout. The coral trout arrived as two beautifully presented cylinders, showcasing the chef’s modern take on Southeast Asian flavours. The “Hor Mok” – a traditional Thai steamed fish curry custard – was ingeniously used as a stuffing, imparting aromatic complexity to the delicate fish. A garnish of catfish eggs and a wonderfully crisp fish skin twirl added visual appeal and textural contrast. The vibrant yellow pineapple curry sauce perfectly balanced sweet, tangy, and spicy notes, complementing the trout beautifully.
Our final wine pairing was Domaine Humbrecht Reisling ‘Clos Windsbuhl’ Hunawihr, Alsace 2012. This complex white wine has notes of ripe stone fruit, honey, and petrol, balanced by a racy acidity. Its aromatic complexity and rich texture complemented the delicate flavours of the coral trout, while the wine’s acidity cut through the richness of the Hor Mok stuffing and pineapple curry sauce.
Le Fromage
While Le Menu Global Discovery at DC Restaurant may offer a somewhat understated description of the cheese selection, it doesn’t quite do justice to the true spectacle that awaited. The cheese trolley was a sight to behold. A magnificent double-decker affair, it boasted a gleaming bevelled glass case and an attractive sound of clinking port bottles as it was wheeled tableside. The selection itself was a cheese lover’s dream, showcasing a vast and impeccably curated assortment, arguably the finest in Kuala Lumpur.
Even with our appetites well-sated from the preceding courses, the allure of the cheese trolley was impossible to resist. Monica, a fellow connoisseur, requested a fresh serving of the restaurant’s exceptional fermented sourdough bread, and a spirited negotiation for cheese ensued. A compromise was reached: she would indulge in the cheese, while I would sample the dessert creations of pastry chef Hazel Chan, with the understanding that a slice of the exquisite 30-month aged Comté I had spied on her selection would be shared. The addition of honeycomb imported from Chiang Mai provided a delightful touch of sweetness.
Extraordinary Chocolate with Patrick Roger
The dessert menu presented an intriguing contrast between savoury and sweet. The foie gras creation, featuring Patrick Roger’s extraordinary 65% Madagascar chocolate, imported from France, and a chocolate nib nougatine, was both a surprising and decadent flavour combination. The sea buckthorn dessert offered a lighter, yet equally satisfying, variation with its passionfruit pearls, whipped mascarpone, caramel, and more of that exceptional chocolate. While the desserts was superb, I did ensure that a sliver of that aged Comté made its way onto my plate. After all, a cheese of such calibre deserves its own encore.
Le Menu Global Discovery Review
Chef Darren Chin’s artistry shines through in his innovative “Global Discovery” menu. This experience blends traditional French techniques with Southeast Asian influences, resulting in visually stunning and exquisitely flavourful dishes. From the elegant ambience and impeccable service to the exquisite tableware and expertly curated wine pairings, every detail elevates the dining experience brought to you by one of the country’s finest chefs. DC Restaurant is a must-visit for discerning diners seeking a truly exceptional culinary adventure.
Reasons to visit DC Restaurant: With its sophisticated and timeless design, the elegant and minimalist dining room continues to impress: the staff are among the best in the business, providing flawless, faultless, and seamless attention to detail. Highlights on Le Menu Global Discovery include the refined mud crab roll, the delicate tart with jackfruit and caviar, the coral trout with spiced “Hor Mok” farce, and the intriguing dessert featuring foie gras and Patrick Roger’s extraordinary chocolate. The impressive cheese trolley, brimming with a vast selection of perfectly curated cheeses, is a sight to behold.
DC Restaurant by Darren Chin
No. 44, Persiaran Zaaba, Taman Tun Dr Ismail
60000, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to DC Restaurant on Google Maps
+6 037 731 0502
Instagram: @dc_restaurant
DC Restaurant Opening Hours
Tuesday to Sunday: 6 – 11 pm
Monday: Closed
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