Italian Restaurant DC Mall – Nero Nero
Word: Chris Lentner
Photos: Matt Wehner
Going out for Italian food is a polarising topic, especially for people like me, who grew up in communities filled with first- and second-generation Italian immigrants. Many of my childhood friends had gregarious Italian mothers who lovingly formed meatballs and assembled trays of homemade lasagna whenever there was a party. With jarred pasta sauce in every grocery store and cooking dried pasta requiring nothing more than boiling water, it’s no wonder people hesitate to pick an Italian restaurant over, say, a French restaurant or a steakhouse.
So, what exactly makes it worth ditching your flip-flops, braving the KL traffic, and forking over your hard-earned cash for a meal most people think they can cook at home?
Simply put: ingredients and execution.
Italian Restaurant DC Mall Menu
Aperitivo Hour
By now, most long-term KL expats have dined at Nero Nero in DC Mall; it has been a KL institution since 2017. Consequently, it’s sometimes necessary to introduce fresh concepts to keep things interesting. Enter the recently launched Aperitivo Hour, offered daily from 5 to 7 pm. For RM 190, diners can choose 1 bottle of Prosecco, 4 Aperol Spritzes, or 4 Negronis. For RM 350, you can choose either 2 bottles of Prosecco, 1 bottle of Gin, 8 Negronis, or 8 Aperol Spritzes. The packages are recommended for two people and four people, respectively, but I guess it depends on how much you like sharing. Both packages come with a daily selection of four canapés (refillable by request). Our table was treated to a round of Aperol Spritzes and a pork-free salumi board featuring sliced turkey, smoked salmon, cheeses, olives, and crostini. A highlight was the tangy sheep’s milk cheese with a vein of truffle running through it, adding aromatic earthiness to every bite.
Nero Nero Wine List
Anwar Kabir, veteran sommelier with the Cinnamon Group, acted as the meal’s narrator throughout our visit, displaying an encyclopedic knowledge of grapes and a deep passion for the art of winemaking. We were fortunate to sample some of his favourite Italian bottles from the menu, as well as a couple of items from his “secret stash.” The 2021 Montelvini Prosecco Brut (RM 490/bottle) illuminated our palates with tiny bubbles and a balanced, flowery profile. Italy’s answer to Champagne, this crisp special edition prosecco, gave us some pep after a long day at work.
The refreshing Valchiaro Nexus Friulano (RM 360/bottle), a lively white with hints of tropical fruits, was the brainchild of four friends who loved to drink and decided to start a winery in Italy together. It made me wonder, “Why don’t my friends have any money?” Interesting Fact: Friulano was formerly known as Tocai Friulano but was forced into a name change as the result of a legal dispute with Hungary.
The Coppi Primitivo Dop Gioia Del Colle Senatore (RM 450/bottle) was well worth the five minutes it took me to copy the name. This succulent red, made with premature grapes, was served in a globe-like goblet that our Reelographer couldn’t stop admiring. Another Interesting Fact: Zinfandel is the same grape as Primitivo but cultivated in the USA.
The 2018 Tullum Rosso Riserva (off-menu, RM 390/bottle) was a nearly purple Montepulciano-based blend from Central Italy, bold and full of body. Tannins, dark red fruits, and smoky notes of tobacco in the nose matched well with our richer dishes.
To Start
A ballon of cool liquid cheese burst with a knife stroke atop a bed of mixed (peeled, roasted, and fresh) tomatoes and rocket for a delightful Buratta (RM 55) appetizer. Topped with toasty bread crumbs, fresh basil, extra virgin olive oil, and a syrupy 9-year-old balsamic, this has got to be one of the freshest, most reasonably priced buratta dishes in KL.
The molten Panzerotti (RM 42), stuffed with melty mozzarella, homemade tomato sauce, and basil, floated in a stream of zesty red pepper and almond sauce. A drizzle of basil oil completed the gourmet pizza rolls of my dreams.
While the sweet crustaceans in the Gamberoni alla Puttanesca (RM 42) were the cleanest tasting shrimp I’ve had in Malaysia, the puttanesca sauce was the true star of this dish. More of a bisque than a sauce, the deeply concentrated shrimp flavour was perfectly balanced with tomatoes and cream like the New England lobster bisques of my childhood. It was so good, in fact, that we asked for a plate of bread so not a drop would go to waste.
Primi
A pile of bite-sized shells, gently folded by fingertip, composed the light and flavourful Cavatelli Marinara (RM 75). A scattering of mussels, clams, and chopped prawns tossed in an oceanic tomato sauce added salinity and texture to the tender pasta.
In stark contrast, the velvety Truffle Mushroom Risotto (RM 85) was packed with woodsy umami flavour. Chunky roasted mushrooms mingled with toothsome Arborio rice granules, which donated every ounce of their starch to this elegant, stick-to-your-ribs dish.
Secondi
A meaty Malabar Snapper with Chimichurri (RM 185), served with a briny olive and asparagus salad and roasted potatoes, tasted like it had just been pulled out of the Mediterranean. The parsley-based sauce, warmed with a spoonful of chilli oil, was an ethereal accompaniment that highlighted the delicate freshness of the perfectly roasted fish.
The fall-apart Stracotto di Agnello Lamb Shank (RM 138) melted into a creamy pool of polenta and rosemary jus. Simmered for twelve hours in a bath of Chianti, the luxurious flesh made our lips glisten with fatty goodness. A caponata of stewed vegetables joined the plate of slow-cooked delicacies.
Dessert
A scoop of Pistachio di Bronte Gelato (RM 15) got a luxe upgrade with a few drops of olive oil and flaky sea salt. The oil’s grassiness amplified the nutty depth of the volcanic-grown Sicilian pistachios, while the sea salt brought out their natural sweetness. This was worlds apart from the neon green ice cream found at your local mall.
None of us had much room in our bellies for the signature Tiramisu (RM 45), yet we persevered. The classic Italian dessert that we’ve all grown to love demonstrated restraint with a whisper of coffee, a featherlight layer of mascarpone, and a dusting of cocoa. Unlike a lot of tiramisus, which quickly melt into a lumpy beige puddle like Frosty the Snowman when the sun comes out, the cake-like tiramisu at Nero Nero was easily divided among the four of us. It was probably the only dish that we managed to keep off the tablecloth.
Grappa
I overruled the table and gladly accepted Anwar’s offer of Grappa (RM 65/shot) to conclude the meal – how else was I supposed to digest that feast? Besides, Anwar assured us that a little Grappa would guarantee a better night’s sleep, so the choice was obvious. Salute!
Reasons to visit Nero Nero – Italian Restaurant DC Mall: Fresh ingredients and skillful execution are guaranteed at this stylish KL mainstay. Come for authentic Southern Italian dishes, an extensive selection of Italian wines, and an old-school cool atmosphere that transports you to Brooklyn in the 1950s.
Nero Nero – Italian Restaurant DC Mall
L3-02, DC Mall, Damansara City, 6 Jalan Damanlela,
Damansara Heights, 50490 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to Nero Nero On Google Maps
@neronero.kl [email protected]
+6019 667 4546
*Pork-free
Nero Nero DC Mall – Opening Hours
Monday – Saturday: 12 – 10:30 pm
Sunday: 12 – 3 pm, 6 – 10 pm
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