Blacklinen Penang – Contemporary Grillroom
Words: Monica Tindall
Photos: Han Sen Hau
The Millen Penang’s ninth floor is home to Blacklinen, a contemporary grillroom that blends sophistication with the primal element of fire. We’re here on a Friday evening on a weekend escape from KL, and oh gosh, does it feel like the perfect spot to punctuate the end of the week – casual feel but a suave setting, honest food done over the flame, and a fine wine list to boot.
The dining area echoes that same stylish ease. The dim lighting sets the mood while dark, polished tables catch the subtle glimmer of firelight, creating a warm and intimate vibe. There are plush banquettes for kicking back in comfort and sleek individual chairs that keep things feeling personal for smaller gatherings. Framed artwork adds charm and the soft overhead lighting ties it together with a welcoming glow. Gleaming custom-made dry-aging cabinets and wine cellars add a further layer of class, combining polished surfaces and crystal-clear glass to match the restaurant’s sleek but effortless feel. It’s an intimate space with a small private dining room that is also available for reservation.
Blacklinen Penang Menu
Chef Benny Yeoh leads the Blacklinen team with a passion for grilling at the core of the menu – a commitment to elevating flavours, textures, and techniques with the use of the flame. They bridge the gap between farm-fresh ingredients and masterful execution, delivering an uncomplicated menu where quality meats and produce shine.
Wine List
We think Fridays deserve bubbles, and Charles Orban, Blanc de Blanc, Champagne, France (RM 85) fits the bill. The 100% Chardonnay has a lovely citrus nose, fine mousse and fruit-driven palate. It’s an excellent aperitif and introduction to Blacklinen’s wine list, which is a well-curated selection of approachable wines, alongside a drool-inducing list of premium drops from the boss’ personal collection.
To Start
The Dress Oysters (RM 22) make a delightful match for the last sips of our sparkling wine. Three plump Japanese Harima specimens are seasoned with ginger flower and a light plum sauce. There’s a bottle of Tabasco if you’re a brute, but these mild, slightly sweet and tender beauties truly shine on their own.
Another product making Japan proud is a juicy, fat Roasted Scallop (RM 68). It’s elevated, as it should be, on a shell in the centre of a sea-blue bowl. Cauliflower puree and parsley oil provide its royal bed, and a dob of caviar and gold flake crown the top.
Nicoise Salad (RM 48) presents a lovely contrast of warm and cold with just-cooked baby potatoes with the skin on, slices of lightly torched-around-the-edges tuna, and cool olives in a balanced mustard vinaigrette. This is a premium nicoise, one we’d be happy to order a repeat.
Blacklinen Penang Mains Menu
As our stomachs settle between courses, Afif rolls up a trolley to present the signature cuts of beef at Blacklinen Penang. He shows off Italian Carima beef, Aussie Angus rib-eye, Aussie Tajima tenderloin, Tajima oyster blade, and Iga Wagyu from the Mie Prefecture. All have been aged in-house, a mixture of wet and dry treatment.
However, it’s not only the beef that is given additional time to develop flavour and soften textures; fish also undergo aging, albeit for a shorter time. The first bite of the Aged Rainbow Trout (market price) is a wow! It’s easy to dry out this fish in the desire to get a crispy skin, but here, the chef has managed the delicate balance of moist flesh and brittle coat. The secret is in dry-aging the fish for three days, putting it in prime condition to get the crunch on the dermis. It comes with two sauce choices, though you can pick more for an additional RM 10. We plump for the romesco and chimichurri. The chimichurri has a great balance – a little sweet, a little tangy and a faint thread of heat – and the romesco is rich and delicious. The Domaine Albert Bichot Vieilles Vignes, Chardonnay, Burgundy, France, 2022 (RM 50) is an excellent match. It’s my favourite style of Chardonnay, fresh and crisp with minimal oak. Dating back to 1350, the Bichot family’s connection to Burgundy is represented by their doe emblem, and Albert Bichot has upheld their legacy by producing outstanding wines in the region since 1831!
We’re delighted with the meal so far, but no visit to Blacklinen would be complete without a steak. The Angus Rib-eye (Market Price), wet-aged for 28 days and cooked to medium rare with a simple salt and pepper seasoning, has a good balance of taste and texture. We opt for a red wine Bordelaise sauce and house-made steak sauce (although the meat is tasty enough not to need either), accompanied by a bundle of rosemary and garlic brûlée. It’s especially delicious with a glass of E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône 2020 (RM 37), the typical Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre blend of the region. Dark fruits, spice, and a touch of smokiness continue into the palate with balanced acidity and mild tannins. The wine is aged for 18 months in large, older oak barrels, enhancing its complexity without overpowering the fruit.
Sides
The Roasted Corn Ribs (RM 28) is a sweet, smoky treat—charred to perfection and packed with texture and flavour. The Charred Vegetables (RM 34) pair beautifully with the protein, featuring zucchini, eggplant, and red pepper atop a rich romesco sauce. Juicy and fresh, they avoid the dryness common in some steakhouse renditions.
Dessert
While Benny is in charge of the grill, and his wife pastry chef wife Joo Tay who brings our Friday to a sweet conclusion. The signature puffy Soufflé (RM 32) is paired with a luscious caramel sauce and tangy passion fruit sorbet—offering something to please every palate. The sorbet’s acidity cuts through the richness of the soufflé and caramel beautifully. Just as well, as we keep spooning back in until every last drop of that caramel is gone.
Finally, the Classic Tiramisu (RM 34) wraps things up with a touch of tableside showmanship. Our server begins with a base of chocolate chiffon, then layers it with coffee and Kahlua syrup, followed by creamy mascarpone cheese. Well-soaked ladyfingers alternate with mascarpone and generous dashes of coffee and liqueur, all crowned by a final dusting of chocolate powder. It’s smooth, rich, and memorable.
Reasons to visit Blacklinen Penang: contemporary grillroom; stylish setting but casual atmosphere; dry-aged meat and fish; good wine list with some premium drops from the owners’ exclusive collection; warm and knowledgeable service.
Blacklinen
The Millen Penang
9-F, 55 Jalan Sultan Ahmad Shah,
Georgetown, Malaysia, 10050
Link to Blacklinen Penang on Google Maps
@blacklinenpenang
www.blacklinen.com.my
[email protected]
+6019-4917168
Blacklinen Penang Opening Hours
Monday: Closed
Tuesday to Sunday: 6:30 – 10:30 pm (last call: 9:30 pm)
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