Best Steak in the World Now in Kuala Lumpur – Vantador’s Exclusive Collaboration with José Gordón’s Galician Blond
Words: Chris Lentner
Photos: Han Sen Hau
Ripping apart a massive steak, showered in salt and cooked over an open flame, is probably the most primal thing a human can engage in without getting arrested. The act of gnawing on flame-kissed flesh and bone, a slurry of beef fat and myoglobin dripping down your chin and elbows, is one of the few dining experiences that can subconsciously bring us back to a time when eating was done simply for survival. Some (vegetarians) may disagree, but I think all humans have the potential to become Neanderthals in button-downs and blouses if a throbbing porterhouse is placed before us.
Celebrated in the MICHELIN Guide for three consecutive years, Vantador is fully aware of our carnal meat obsession. Led by Chef Emir Farid, a Vantador veteran, this establishment provides an ultra-premium dining experience, with an old-school steakhouse vibe and plenty of high-end options that will satisfy even the most discerning palates. Dark leather, exposed brick, and dry agers proudly displaying sides of butter-encrusted beef signal that you’re in for a truly memorable experience.
We were invited for an early dinner on a Friday evening to taste some new menu offerings and learn more about Vantador’s collaboration with the famed Spanish chef José Gordón, whose dry-aged Galician Blond is regarded by many as the best-tasting steak in the world.
Vantador Menu
The menu at Vantador reads like a Who’s Who list of luxury foods. Oysters, caviar, lobster, foie gras…this is the place to go if you have an unlimited budget (or an expense account). Pre-starters offer a quick jolt of flavour to prime the palate. Starters consist of creative small plates highlighting prized ingredients from land and sea. A charcuterie board and a couple of salads are also on offer, as are non-steak mains, like the Aged Duck Breast with foie gras and orange demi-glace and the Lobster and Scallop Pasta with crab and a white wine sauce. There’s even a burger (with or without 24K gold leaf) for the kids!
While these options are great, most people visit Vantador for the steak, and this place delivers with cuts of all shapes, sizes, and origins. Prices range from RM70 per 100 grams for wet-aged Angus varieties to a wallet-melting RM150 per 100 grams for the coveted MB9 Black Wagyu Ribeye. As with any steakhouse worth its weight in Wagyu, Vantador also offers a variety of homey sides, so you can temporarily delay your transformation into a werewolf, howling at a tomahawk moon. Your cardiologist might encourage you to try the Mixed Salad or the Slow Roasted Sherry Bell Peppers, but I know you’re just going to order the Truffle Mash Potatoes instead. If you still have space after all that food, several eye-catching desserts go beyond the typical cake/ice cream/tiramisu fare common to most steakhouses.
Pre-starter
We started our decadent meal with a beefy amuse bouche, referred to in these parts as The Signature Beef Experience (RM65). This trio of unctuous bites proved that munching on the flesh of a cow could, in fact, be a refined experience. The intelligently composed sampler gave us an opportunity to try three different beef varieties prepared in three different ways, showcasing the versatility and flavour range of the humble protein. A paper-thin sheet of Spanish tenderloin, adorned with a flourish of caviar, was rolled into a cylindrical bite before dissolving on our tongues with a clean, briny finish. The Manchego Puff, topped with a generous heap of Spanish Cecina, burst with a flavourful cheese mousse before settling into a lingering, salty chew that can only be achieved by expertly cured meat. This is our first taste of the delicacies provided by José Gordón – the cecina has been cured and dry-aged in his cave for four years! The sinful Wagyu Rib Roast Crostini gushed smoky, liquified fat with each bite of toasted focaccia. What a grand entrance!
Starters
The Smoked Trout Tostadas (RM65) overflowed with vibrant orange slices of cold smoked Atlantic trout sitting atop a piping of crème fraîche and a mild salsa verde. A spoonful of caviar and a sprinkle of chives rested on the waves of cured fish. A shatteringly crisp corn tostada provided textural contrast and an efficient vessel for shoving every last morsel into our gullets.
A skewer of succulent Australian wagyu tenderloin topped with chimichurri joined a gently grilled Argentinian red prawn for the Petite Surf & Turf (RM75). The perfect sear made me concerned that the beef skewer might be overcooked, but to my delight, the interior was cool and rosy. A scoop of toothsome beef rice wept the flavorful tallow in which it was fried, and the brown butter béarnaise offered a novel nuttiness and complexity.
Mains
Two standout main dishes proved that Vantador can do more than just beef. The Roasted Lamb Rack (RM205) was a pair of double-cut mallets artfully stacked with a stream of jewel-studded pomegranate jus and a dollop of cheesy pommes aligot. Topped with herbaceous chimichurri and leaves of charred red endive, the blushing chops made for a satisfying main course.
The Grilled Coral Trout (RM198), freshly plucked from the waters of Sabah, was accompanied by a translucent, spinach-wrapped scallop resting on a bed of smoky chorizo cannellini beans. A light lemon butter volute provided an acidic splash to brighten the firm-fleshed fish, which proudly displayed a crackling golden skin. And what is the secret to this superbly crisp skin? Dry aging! That’s right, it’s not only red meat that gets special treatment at Vantador, the fish does too.
Best Steak in the World – José Gordón’s Galician Blond
The star of the show, and the most exquisite steak I’ve ever encountered, was the exclusive José Gordón Rubia Gallega Chuletero (RM130/100g). Just in case you don’t deep dive into travel shows like I do, living vicariously through food influencers moaning incessantly while gorging at the best restaurants in the world, here’s a brief overview of this magical meat.
José Gordón, sometimes known as The Beef Whisperer, is the meat maestro behind Bodega El Capricho, a legendary restaurant tucked in a cave outside León, Spain. This shrine to steak draws meat pilgrims from across the globe, with its beef hailed among the world’s best by major publications, as well as the 2014 Netflix film Steak (R)évolution. Like Japan’s pampered Wagyu, Gordón’s oxen live serene, pasture-fed lives into old age (sometimes up to 17 years), a stark contrast to typical feedlot cattle usually slaughtered by two. But while Wagyu melts like meaty lava cake, Rubia Gallega boasts tenderness with a noble chew and a flavour so profound it could make a grown butcher weep. Where Wagyu is luxury, Rubia Gallega is tradition — steak in its finest form.
We were presented with a 1.2kg bone-in behemoth of the prized meat, which was gently roasted to temperature above an open fire before receiving a final sear in a red-hot pan. The meat, fat, and bones were skillfully separated and served on a board with two heads of roasted garlic and some flaky salt. The Sauce Tasting Platter (RM30) included Chimichurri, Smoked Paprika Cream Fraiche, Beef Jus, Peppercorn Jus, and Truffle Béarnaise, though it felt like heresy to dip meat of this calibre into anything other than its own juices. The ideal accoutrement came as a jagged, coral-like hunk of Añana Salt, hand-farmed from a 200-million-year-old sea in Spain, that was grated like snowfall from above.
Our table took a moment of silence to appreciate the specimen placed before us before digging in. Intensely beefy, perfectly cooked, mouth-watering, and pure, this beef took our breath away. The aged fat was like its own dish, offering a luscious, funky bite reminiscent of a veiny roquefort. With just two pieces left on the plate – one meat and one fat – I asked Ivan, our reelographer, which he would prefer. “I’ll take the fat,” he quickly replied. It was that good.
Dessert
The Tea-infused Lemon Mirage (RM45) was a spectacular dish that stimulated the senses. The theatrical presentation began with a tree trunk exhaling a fragrant plume of lemon essence, setting the scene for the citrusy dessert. A lemon, crafted from Earl Grey sponge encased in yuzu curd, was paired with a quenelle of thyme-scented Earl Grey sorbet, like day and night. Swirls of marshmallowy meringue, matcha leaves, yellow petals, and drops of olive oil added visual and textural interest to the clean, composed plate.
The fancifully named Elderflower Peach Harmony (RM38) topped a pinwheel of peach slices, poached in a syrup of elderflower and honey, with a scoop of tangy yoghurt sorbet and a tableside drizzle of wild forest honey. A supporting layer of puff pastry flaked with the stroke of a fork, squeezing out a hidden stream of pastry cream. A meandering stroll through a meadow in spring, this dish was a sweet escape after a long workday.
Orange flower petals on the Chocolat Bergamote Rêverie (RM38) were like glowing embers against a midnight backdrop. A wall of crisp chocolate wafers housed a base of fudgy chocolate moelleux covered in layers of floral bergamot curd and velvety chocolate cream. Deeply satisfying yet balanced, this dish was the highlight of the dessert course.
Wine List & Cocktails
We chose a lively rosé, the Whispering Angel from Chateau d’Esclans (RM70/glass, RM290/bottle), to complement our light starters. Easy drinking and fruity, it’s no surprise that this pink potion is a favourite among suburban moms.
Monica selected the Marqués de Vargas Gran Reserva, Rioja (RM450/bottle) to pair with our Spanish steak. This elegant red featured notes of black fruits and balsamic undertones developed over time through extended aging in French oak barrels. Each sip was like an extension of the Rubia Gallega itself.
The cocktail menu featured a variety of creative signature mixed drinks, but we chose two classics to match the cigar lounge atmosphere. The Smoked Negroni (RM58) spent a minute in a glass sauna before emerging with a puff of aromatic smoke. Bold and strong, as any Negroni should be, this ruby elixir went down easy. The Tokyo Old Fashioned (RM68) was a modern riff on the 19th-century classic. Ume (plum) liqueur and yuzu bitters joined Kentucky bourbon to create a bright remix of the robust cocktail.
Reasons to visit Vantador: Vantador is Kuala Lumpur’s quintessential high-end steakhouse — a go-to for special occasions and the bloodthirsty carnivores in your life. Spanning three floors with private rooms and vintage décor, it offers a warm, polished setting and a level of quality that’s near impossible to recreate at home (unless you’re friends with José Gordón and have a dry ager in your kitchen). The Signature Beef Experience is a must, best followed by the impeccably roasted lamb rack and your choice of premium steak in remarkable proportions. Steak connoisseurs must try José Gordón’s Rubia Gallega – said to be the best-tasting steak in the world. Finish with the Chocolat Bergamote Rêverie and you’ve got a meal that will be etched in the core memories of your cavernous mind.
Vantador: The Dry Aged Steak Boutique
38, Jalan 25/70A, Desa Sri Hartamas
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to Vantador on Google Maps
+60 3 6211 5588
www.vantador.co
@vantadorsteak
Vantador Opening Hours
Daily: 6:00 pm – 12:00 am
Find more of our favourite steakhouses in Kuala Lumpur here, and stay up-to-date on the latest gourmet and travel happenings around Malaysia via The Yum List on Instagram here and The Yum List on Facebook here.