Elegant Fine Food – Tropicana
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Han Sen Hau
Here at The Yum List, we often have the pleasure of uncovering off-the-map eateries —the kind of places whispered about by those in the know, embodying our ethos of insider recommendations rather than formal reviews. It was through this very spirit of discovery that we found ourselves drawn to Elegant Fine Food in Persiaran Tropicana, a restaurant with a unique backstory. Emerging three years ago during the post-pandemic recovery, Elegant Fine Food initially thrived as an importer of fine caviar, adapting to the changing landscape with a popular delivery service featuring their now-signature cold capellini pasta. Building upon this success and their expertise in sourcing premium caviar and uni, business partners Chef Rainey Yan and Aaron Tong decided to establish a physical presence in the very area where their delivery service had flourished, creating an intimate space dedicated to showcasing these exquisite imports alongside other delectable seafood creations for a truly refined dining experience.
The restaurant’s exterior is striking, dominated by a shimmering gold facade. Stepping past the red velvet ropes lining the doorway into this intimate caviar and uni haven, limited to just 20 discerning diners, feels like entering a world of understated luxury. The restaurant exudes a sophisticated ambience, characterised by plush green leather banquettes, elegantly draped tables in black, beaten gold effect cutlery and napkin rings, and subtle, warm lighting. This creates an inviting and exclusive setting, perfectly complementing the exquisite delicacies that await.
Elegant Fine Food Menu
Starters
For a dramatic and refreshing start to our meal, the Seasonal Oyster Selection (RM 288 for a dozen) featured creamy sashimi oysters flown in from Ireland, served on ice, accompanied by a captivating dry ice effect.
Whilst a couple of my friends once braved a dog sled across frozen Norwegian fjords to enjoy freshly caught and highly prized snow crab, Elegant Fine Food offers a more accessible indulgence, it’s quite literally offered up on a plate. Their Snow Crab (RM 128) features the delicate sweetness of snow crab, this time sourced from the icy, deep waters of Hokkaido. Its meat and roe are served atop a uniquely crafted, house-made caviar-infused rice cracker.
The Uni Toast (RM 198), featuring seasonal uni atop handcrafted brioche toast with a shoyu-cured egg yolk sauce, is a dish that exemplifies the fleeting nature of fine dining pleasures. The combination of the light, fluffy brioche, the rich egg yolk sauce, and the delicate Japanese uni, dusted with gold powder, creates a moment of exquisite flavour that vanishes all too quickly, leaving behind only a delicious memory.
Another standout was the Smoked Maguro Ikura Tartelette (RM 96), featuring premium sashimi-grade bluefin tuna and Ikura (Salmon Roe) nestled within a delightfully crisp French tartelette case. The tartelette itself offered a subtle hint of sweetness in its finish, which balanced the pronounced smoky flavour of the salmon roe. Presented dramatically in a glass jewellery case on a bed of glistening black pebbles, the smoke dissipated upon opening, revealing the jewel-like tarts within. As our waiter Mark suggested, these were best enjoyed in a single bite: the crisp shell yielding to the creamy diced tuna and the burst of juicy, salty salmon roe, another fleeting moment of exquisite flavour.
Uni & Caviar
The Signature Uni Experience (RM 369) showcases 50 grams of premium uni, (the orange or yellow lobes found inside the sea urchin shell) a delicacy swiftly flown in from the shores of Japan, presented alongside the essential Japanese accompaniments: delicate nori sheets, nuanced shoyu, and glistening beads of trout roe. Uni, an ingredient that often sparks either fervent adoration or distinct aversion, much like Malaysia’s own durian, is undeniably a luxurious offering with a pronounced flavour profile. While some, like Monica, typically enjoy it sparingly, the thoughtful pairing here proved transformative. Our knowledgeable waiter, Mark, guided us on how to enjoy the Signature Uni Experience best, suggesting that we create miniature nori wraps and layer the creamy uni within. This simple preparation, when combined with the vibrant, juicy trout roe already artfully presented by the chef, yielded a delightful textural contrast. The bright, clean flavour of the roe beautifully harmonised with and softened the uni’s richness, resulting in a surprisingly balanced and moreish experience, even for those who might usually approach uni with caution.
The Prestia Elegant Caviar Experience (RM 468) arrives in a classic 30g tin, accompanied by the traditional French accoutrements: finely diced hard-boiled eggs, minced shallots, crème fraîche, and, notably, freshly made in-house blinis. For those new to the indulgence, there’s no strict protocol, but a personal tip is to first spread a whisper of crème fraîche onto a warm blini before nestling a generous dollop of the glistening caviar – a simple trick to prevent those precious pearls from escaping. Then, crown it with a sprinkle of egg and/or shallots to your liking. For a more informal initiation, or simply a pure taste of these jewels from the sea, consider a caviar ‘bump’: a small spoonful placed on the back of your hand, between thumb and forefinger, and savoured directly. Elegant Fine Food even embraces this playful approach with their whimsical ‘caviar angels’ at corporate events. The star of this experience was a Kaluga Hybrid caviar, a fascinating crossbreed of Amur River sturgeons. Its large, amber beads delivered a rich flavour profile, a creamy texture, and a delightful blend of floral, briny notes with a hint of botanicals. The mouthfeel was smooth and luxurious, revealing nutty and fruity undertones reminiscent of prized Caspian Sea Osetra.
Mains
The Signature Cold Capellini (RM 188) isn’t just a dish; it’s the cornerstone upon which this restaurant was built, and one taste immediately reveals why it garnered such a following. A visual masterpiece, a true “seafood supermodel,” it’s the kind of plate that would inspire even the most seasoned food photographer. But its beauty is far more than skin deep. Chilled capellini, slicked with fragrant white truffle oil, forms the elegant canvas for a harmonious blend of oceanic delights. Succulent slices of Hokkaido scallop sashimi, hailing from Japan’s icy waters, offer a delicate sweetness. At the same time, generous dollops of glistening Mizoria caviar and vibrant shoyu trout roe burst with salty, briny pops. The sheer abundance of these exquisite toppings creates a playful textural contrast against the smooth pasta, a delightful explosion of the sea’s finest flavours in every bite.
Following the flavour bomb that was the Signature Cold Capellini, the Lobster Capellini (RM 318) presented an interesting contrast with its warm capellini, a tender Canadian lobster tail, and an intensely flavourful lobster bisque essence. The bisque, rich with the essence of countless hours of simmering, enveloped the pasta, creating a comforting warmth that juxtaposed with the fleeting heat applied to the lobster. This brief cooking ensured the tail remained incredibly juicy and tender. While the Signature Cold Capellini undoubtedly steals the show with its striking appearance and intricate layers of flavour and texture, the sheer quality and understated elegance of the Lobster Capellini, for me, just edged ahead in the friendly competition between these two exceptional pasta dishes.
Our final main, the Fjord Trout (RM 138), hails from Norway, renowned for its premium fjord trout raised in unique glacial seawater conditions, resulting in a distinct flavour and firm texture. This dish allowed the quality of the simply prepared fish to shine, enhanced by the refreshing crunch of aged kyuri and beautifully crisped skin. Despite its modest price point, the elegant preparation allowed it to confidently hold its own against pricier signature offerings.
Desserts
Just when we thought the savoury delights of seafood and caviar had concluded, a surprise arrived in the form of Euphoria (RM 288). A generous tin of glistening, green-black Mizoria caviar was presented, its pink lid hinting at the unexpected treasure within. Beneath this luxurious layer lay a rich, classic French cheesecake. The initial pop of salty caviar created a fascinating contrast with the sweet, creamy cheese, reminiscent of salted caramel but with a subtle oceanic twist. This decadent dessert is likely best shared, as its richness was quite intense after a few spoonfuls, down to the delightful crunchy base. With half the tin remaining, we couldn’t let such an extraordinary creation go to waste, so we encouraged our photographer, Han Sen, to take it home and share this unique experience. After all, who wouldn’t want to boast about indulging in a caviar-topped cheesecake?
Finally, the Petit Gateaux (RM 45) offered a delicate and artful conclusion. The seasonal artisan petit fours featured fluffy strawberry and yuzu parfaits atop crisp shortbread biscuits, adorned with piped fresh cream, rose petals, white chocolate shards, and a touch of gold leaf.
Drinks Menu & Wine List
Elegant Fine Food’s wine and drinks menu is thoughtfully curated to complement their focus on fine seafood and caviar. Diners can expect a selection of premium Champagnes, including renowned labels like Louis Roederer and Dom Pérignon, alongside a diverse array of white wines, reds, and rosés, carefully chosen to pair with the delicate flavours of caviar, uni, and fresh seafood. The menu also features a thoughtful selection of sakes and flavoured sakes, offering further options to complement the restaurant’s sophisticated culinary offerings.
Throughout our exploration of Elegant Fine Food’s exquisite menu, from the delicate Fjord Trout to the indulgent Signature Cold Capellini and the surprising Euphoria dessert crowned with caviar, the Telmont Réserve Brut NV (RM 548) stood out as an exceptional companion. This champagne, a subtle marriage of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier from seven distinct years, offers a beautifully balanced profile of richness, fruitiness, and refreshing acidity. Its genuine expression of terroir and harmonious blend proved to be the perfect counterpoint to the fresh, clean flavours of the seafood and the luxurious salinity of the caviar featured in dishes like the Prestia Elegant Caviar Experience and the Signature Uni Experience. The Telmont’s nuanced character also cut through the richness of the Lobster Capellini. It even provided an intriguing contrast to the sweet and salty notes of the unique Euphoria cheesecake, truly elevating the entire dining experience with its sophisticated elegance.
Elegant Fine Food partners with Rémy Cointreau’s Champagne Telmont in Malaysia to host a series of caviar workshops, masterclasses and caviar pairing dinners for private and corporate groups to elevate the caviar appreciation through education and exceptional products. Look out for their upcoming events on @elegant.kl
To conclude our meal, we were served Freshly Brewed Coffee (RM 18) in a beautiful gold French press. This attention to detail was particularly appreciated, as a disappointing cup of coffee, often an afterthought in many restaurants, can leave a lingering “sour taste” that overshadows an otherwise enjoyable experience. Here, however, the rich, well-rounded coffee provided a perfect, satisfying finish to a thoroughly memorable and indulgent meal.
Elegant Fine Food Review
Elegant Fine Food offers a unique and refined dining experience, born from a passion for premium caviar and uni. Initially an importer, the restaurant evolved to showcase these delicacies alongside expertly crafted seafood dishes, presented in an intimate and luxurious setting. From the artfully arranged plates to the attentive service and thoughtfully curated wine and drinks menu, Elegant Fine Food excels at creating a special occasion atmosphere.
The impeccable service provided by our waiter, Mark, throughout our visit deserves special mention. From the warm welcome and the opening of the door upon arrival to the seamless refreshing of plates and cutlery between courses and the attentive topping up of water and champagne glasses, the service was consistently attentive without being intrusive. In a time when such attentiveness can be rare, it’s a detail that truly elevates the dining experience. Elegant Fine Food is designed as a destination for special occasions – birthdays, anniversaries, proposals, or promotions – a place where guests should feel pampered and celebrated, and in this regard, they certainly delivered.
Reasons to visit Elegant Fine Food: Exquisite caviar and uni; elegant and intimate setting; impeccable service; excellent choice for special occasions and romance; must try the caviar cheesecake.
Elegant Fine Food
P-1-23, Tropicana Avenue, Persiaran Tropicana,
Tropicana Golf Club & Country Resort, Petaling Jaya,
47410 Selangor, Malaysia
Link to Elegant Fine Food on Google Maps
+6 014-328 6711
www.elegantfinefood.com
@elegant.kl
Elegant Fine Food Opening Hours
Tuesdays – Sundays: 12:30 pm – 2:30 pm & 6 pm – 10 pm
Mondays: Closed
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