Esca KL, Jalan Petaling, Chinatown
Words: Joanna Florento
Photos: Peter Tan
At Esca KL, the food is on the table and so are the cards – you are in for a curated journey through the unexpected, an invitation to defamiliarise.
Esca’s Latin-derived moniker, meaning “food prepared for the table,” is a call to converge and commune. It’s rebellious but reverent, with Mondrian-esque coloured tiles, breezy alfresco and open-plan private dining, and exposed red brick paying homage to its shoplot origins dating back to 1899. Its interior is as elegantly designed as its menu, with wooden chairs upholstered in repurposed checkered fabrics and kampung-style canopies woven with textiles from Syarikat People Textiles, a Chinatown favourite since 1972. Partner and sommelier Han Lai expertly guides us through Chef Chong Yu Cheng (of Terra Dining)’s artful culinary imaginings, and we luxuriate in the time-honoured tradition of people-watching in Chinatown while enjoying the breeze and slowly savouring our meal.
Esca KL Menu Review
Snacks
Esca’s snack offerings are served with precision and confidence. We instantly reach for the Prawn Toast (RM 32 for two pieces), which looks both appetisingly crunchy and comforting in its simplicity. Garnished with ebiko mayo and pickled shallots, the prawn filling bursts with flavour that is expertly bookended by the tart cornichon. The toast is crispy and buttered, and each bite tastes like a warming sip of bisque. The Lamb Baos (RM 28 for two pieces) are soft and savoury, with the minced lamb keema boasting a slightly citrusy flavour that is well-tempered by the creamy yoghurt sauce. Baby spinach leaves sprinkled throughout keep every bite grounded in freshness.
Appetisers
Our pre-appetiser appetites sufficiently whetted, we tuck into the appetisers with gusto. The Barramundi Crudo (RM 36) is tangy and delectable, with firm cuts of barramundi marinated in fresh coconut water and lime. The coconut water adds a dimension of sweetness that pairs well with the bits of lychee sprinkled throughout. The green mango salad is slightly sour and lends a tropical note to the dish, which the winged beans add vibrant pops of green and a satisfying crunch.
The barramundi is paired with a cool glass of Tenuta Montecchiesi Vermentino Chardonnay, 2023 (RM 215). This blend from Cortona balances Vermentino’s freshness and minerality with Chardonnay’s elegance and structure, creating a vibrant yet rounded wine. The Dal Cero family cultivates these varieties in their Tuscan estate, showcasing the terroir’s potential for expressive white wines beyond the region’s famed reds. It’s a personal favourite of Han’s. Since there’s a good amount of acidity in the food, the wine is intended to complement it at the right level. We heartily nod in assent with each glass bearing a slightly floral profile and notes of rosemary, hawthorn, and herbs.
Next is the Shima Aji Tataki (RM 88), thinly sliced Japanese mackerel drizzled with kimchi emulsion and a sauce vierge sprinkled with furikake. The sauce vierge is made with sundried tomatoes for an Italian touch, while the kimchi emulsion leverages the heat of the charcoal used in the cooking process.
The Grilled Octopus (RM 68) is slightly smoky, but well-balanced in pairing with sambal matah and salted deviled eggs. Directly competing with its main ingredient are the triple-cooked potatoes, perfectly seasoned and ever-so-satisfying to bite into.
We ask for seconds with the Grilled Broccoli and Kailan (RM 28), and it’s easy to see why. With tender broccoli coated in sweetly nutty candied almonds and rich romesco sauce with the perfect balance of tomatoes and peppers, there’s nary a full plate in sight – we devour our portions in record time.
Mains
Our plates don’t stay clean for long, especially as the Chicken Leg (RM 48) is served nice and hot, drizzled with green tandoori and biryani rice. The meat is so tender that simply grazing it with a fork is enough to come away with a generous bite, while green tandoori provides a herbaceous profile amplified in freshness by sprigs of cilantro. The biryani rice features dried cranberries against its trademark golden hue.
In between bites, we sip a Domaine Richard Rottier Moulin à Vent “Les Thorins” 2020 (RM 315), a light-tasting floral red wine featuring Gamay grapes and notes of blackberries and spice. This Beaujolais comes from vineyards near the historic 15th-century windmill that gives the appellation its name. Standing at its heart, the iconic structure represents one of Beaujolais’ most distinguished and age-worthy crus.
Flanked by grilled cucumber salad and harissa beurre blanc, the Halibut (RM 88) is soft and incredibly flavorful. The kick of spice from the harissa beurre blanc pleasantly offsets the halibut’s mildly sweet taste, while the cucumber salad rounds it out with its tangy profile.
The Lamb Saddle (RM 128) is beautifully presented, with dried shrimp and orange sambal delicately complementing tender slices of lamb resting atop a generous swirl of begedil carrot purée. Pomegranate seeds and the orange sambal itself lend a sweetness that elevates the lamb’s profile, and the carrot puree adds a touch of creaminess.
Dessert
After sampling the Coconut Pudding (RM 32), we can confirm that fresh mango with coconut and torched ginger is nothing but a winning combination. With candied peanuts and extra Bentong ginger, this dessert is sweet but not overly syrupy, tropical without being overly fruity.
We enjoyed this with a shot of Elemental Mezcal Artesanal Espadin (RM 35), a small batch artisanal mezcal that is smooth, round with a slightly smoky aftertaste. Elemental specifically highlights Espadín agave, showcasing its complexity and nuanced flavours through traditional craftsmanship, allowing drinkers to appreciate mezcal’s foundational character without blends or other varieties.
Finally, the Gochujang Chocolate Mousse (RM 38) dares us to reimagine the limits of dessert, with finely crafted strips of crispy chocolate swirl adorning a sweet biscuit base and pumpkin seed praline adding crunchiness to gochujang-infused chocolate mousse (phew!). The gochujang and chocolate work incredibly well in concert, ensuring the smooth disappearance of every bite.
Drinks
What better way to while away the afternoon than to people-watch with a cocktail in hand? Esca KL is set up flawlessly to do just that. A bar dividing the seating areas allows for a more intimate dining experience out back, or a watch-the-crowd-go-by space in front.
In between sips of the Acid Freak (RM 48), we note how it tastes pleasantly of pink guava, while the Angostura bitters and gin add an element of bitterness that is well-balanced by the acidity from the calamansi.
The Bangkok Far (RM 50) is a naughty swirl of tequila, lemongrass, lemon, and chrysanthemum. The chrysanthemum smooths the sharp edges of the tequila, giving the drink some creaminess with an edge.
The Chinatownic (RM 55) is wonderfully layered, with the vodka taste almost imperceptible due to the sweetness of jasmine cutting through. The hawthorn adds an almost nostalgic touch, while the kick of lime is mellowed well by notes of Acacia Mangium honey.
We round things out with the Kapitan (RM 45), a delightful concoction of dark rum, calamansi, mint, and palm sugar. As a proud Filipino, I can’t get enough of calamansi. The Kapitan’s incorporation of just the right amount of rum and sugar masterfully cuts the acidity, making this drink citrusy, refreshing, and well-balanced. Esca plans to pilot a new cocktail every month, and it’s an endeavour that’s not to be missed.
Esca KL Review
Esca’s beautifully open setting embodies their ethos of a relaxed, collaborative atmosphere inspiring casual conversations, intimate celebrations, restorative solo meals with a good book, and everything in between. Their alfresco dining area is both stylish and immensely comfortable – the perfect perch for observing the comings and goings of the Chinatown crowd. Esca is intentionally designed to offer a medley of experiences at different times of day, gliding effortlessly from light bites and brunch at 12 noon to groovy tunes at their 5-8 pm happy hour on Tuesdays to Fridays, and simmering after sunset with a sophisticated dinner menu supplemented by inventive cocktails and genre-defying desserts. At Esca, food is always on the table – save us a seat!
Reasons to visit Esca KL: Mouthwatering fusion cuisine, intentionally crafted atmosphere with plenty of local touches, great playlist, effortless vibe that moves seamlessly from a midday brunch to relaxed cocktails after work, fantastic service, must try the Acid Freak and Kapitan cocktails, well-selected wine list.
Esca KL
135G, Jalan Petaling, City Centre (below The Hungry Tapir)
Chinatown, 50000 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to Esca KL on Google Maps
+6 017-982 5753
@esca.kl
Open parking lots are available nearby.
Esca KL
Monday: Closed
Tuesday to Thursday & Sunday: 5-11 pm
Friday & Saturday: 5 pm-12 am
Brunch will start in July!
Find more Chinatown KL recommendations here and stay up-to-date on the latest happenings in KL’s food and beverage scene with The Yum List on Instagram and The Yum List on Facebook.