Portofino Menu – Bangsar South, New Chef, New Italian Dishes
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Han Sen Hau
The Sphere in Bangsar South stands out as a lifestyle hub, a carefully curated collection of dining establishments nestled amidst pockets of lush greenery and tranquil water features. Its modern architecture, characterised by clean lines and expansive glass facades, fosters a bright and airy atmosphere, inviting both casual gatherings and more refined dining experiences. The gentle sounds of flowing water and the verdant landscaping offer a refreshing contrast to the urban bustle, creating an appealing backdrop for an evening out. Within this vibrant setting, Portofino Italian Restaurant promises an authentic taste of Italy, drawing patrons with the allure of classic dishes and a warm, inviting ambience.
My first encounter with Chef Keli, one of the proprietors, was a year ago when I joined The Yum List to sample the new menu at their original Lucky Garden restaurant in Bangsar. I learned Chef Keli, a native of Northern Italy, was inspired by Malaysia’s warmth and hospitality to share his passion for traditional, homemade Italian cuisine with his friend Luca, leading to the opening of the original Portofino in 2014. Its popularity led to a second location in The Sphere, Bangsar South, in 2018 and subsequent ventures like Dolce Vita and Five O’Clock Brasserie.
Portofino enthusiasts can be assured that their beloved dishes will remain on the menu at The Sphere outlet, even though the original flagship restaurant in Lucky Garden was sold a few months ago, after a decade of success. This continuity is ensured as Chef Keli, with his growing family, has appointed an old friend, Chef Stefano Criber, to helm the kitchen at Portofino The Sphere. Chef Criber brings a wealth of food and beverage (F&B) expertise and a background working in Malaysia. Hailing from a small town in central-southern Italy, his culinary journey began early, inspired by the authentic home cooking of his mother and grandmother. A trained graduate of a prestigious Italian culinary school, Chef Criber, who recently came from Jakarta, is delighted to return to Malaysia, a country he finds warmly hospitable.
Portofino presents a charming and inviting facade with its dark wood exterior, arched glass windows offering peeks inside, and a distinctive blue awning announcing its name. The welcoming outdoor seating area, shaded by a glass canopy and adorned with greenery, features neatly set tables that hint at a pleasant dining experience. Portofino accommodates a total of 110 diners, offering both indoor and outdoor seating options. The outdoor seating area, accommodating 20 guests in the front and 20 in the back, is equipped with ample ceiling fans, sunshades, and shade from the surrounding trees. Chef Keli notes that while the evenings are particularly pleasant, plans are underway to trial outdoor chiller fan units to ensure comfort during the hotter parts of the day. The outdoor ambience is slightly more casual, featuring black metal wicker-backed chairs with turquoise velvet upholstery, set amidst leafy greens and a charming vertical garden that provides privacy from the pavement and road.
Inside, the restaurant offers a more formal and elegant setting, seating 50-60 guests in a fully air-conditioned space. The interior is styled with blond wood flooring and a central bar area, complemented by crisp white tablecloths.
Portofino Menu: New Chef, New Dishes
Portofino prides itself on its curated selection of high-quality Italian produce, and you can bring a piece of Portofino home with you. Beyond the cuisine, explore unique retail items, such as Portofino Coffee, roasted near Chef Keli’s hometown, and the eye-catching Portofino Gin. The gin comes in a beautiful blue bottle decorated with a depiction of the picturesque Italian port that inspired the restaurant’s name, making it a lovely souvenir or gift.
Portofino Wine List & Drinks Menu
At Portofino, the wine list invites exploration of Italy’s diverse wines, featuring strong reds like Chianti and Barolo, as well as light whites like Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc. You’ll find regional specialities from Tuscany, Veneto, Piedmont, and Sicily, plus a good selection of international wines. Sparkling wine lovers can enjoy Prosecco and Franciacorta.
During our visit, we explored the wines by the glass, with a delightful focus on the offerings from Sartori. Monica has a special fondness for this fourth-generation family winery in Verona, having once spent a week at their vineyard. The 2023 Sartori di Verona Soave Classico Sella (RM 32 per glass) proved to be a crisp and refreshing white, its delicate aromas of white flowers, almonds, and citrus leading to a dry, well-balanced palate with pleasant minerality and a clean finish. This Soave Classico is an excellent partner for light seafood, grilled fish, salads, and creamy pasta, its bright acidity enhancing the flavours.
The 2022 Sartori di Verona Brolo di Sotto Valpolicella Classico (RM 32 per glass) presented a medium-bodied red, brimming with ripe red fruit aromas such as cherry and plum, nuanced with spice and a hint of earthiness. The palate was smooth and balanced, featuring soft tannins and a pleasing finish. This Valpolicella Classico complemented our rich duck and lamb ragu dishes beautifully and would pair well with pasta in red sauce and grilled meats.
Beyond wine, Portofino’s beverage menu extends to local and Italian beers, spirits, soft drinks, and cocktails. The Aperol Spritz (RM 46), served chilled with a vibrant orange hue, delivered a classic bittersweet Aperol and bubbly Prosecco combination, light and refreshing. Monica’s choice, the Gin and Sonic (half tonic, half soda) (RM 48), crafted with Portofino’s own branded and specially imported gin and Malafemma Italian tonic, was served in a balloon glass with ice. Both drinks provided a delightful aperitivo; the Gin and Tonic offered a balanced botanical fizz, and the Aperol Spritz featured bright, zesty notes.
Starters
Our meal started with the Eggplant Parmigiana (RM 34), a personal favourite featuring premium San Marzano tomatoes, deep-fried eggplant, fresh basil, oregano, and creamy fiordilatte mozzarella. While technically shareable, this perfectly gratinated Parmigiana di Melanzane was so utterly delicious that you’d likely want to keep every flavourful bite for yourself.
The Burrata Fritta (RM 48) offered a delightful textural experience, presenting crispy golden spheres coated in breadcrumbs that gave way to an incredibly creamy and silky burrata within. This rich mozzarella, made with whole cream milk, was beautifully complemented by a vibrant fresh tomato tartare, shavings of Grana Padano cheese, and fragrant basil pesto.
Pasta
My fond memory of the fresh, high-quality pasta at the original Portofino was instantly reaffirmed at their restaurant at the Sphere. The Pappardelle with Lamb Ragout (RM 48), a dish I thoroughly enjoyed last year, was just as exceptional. The wide, house-made pappardelle, cooked al dente, provided the ideal canvas for the rich, slow-cooked lamb ragout. Each bite was deeply satisfying, and it was clear that everyone at the table shared my enjoyment. This consistent quality across locations truly speaks to Portofino’s dedication to its signature pasta. A dusting of Parmesan completed the utterly delicious experience.
While the Lamb Ragu pasta set a high bar, the Pesto Prawns & Burrata (RM 48) was a very welcome surprise. This dish features homemade trofie pasta, a short, twisted shape originating from Liguria, Italy, known for its ability to hold sauce, especially pesto. The trofie, tossed with succulent tiger prawns and creamy burrata cheese, had a delightful texture with a slight bite, perfectly capturing the vibrant green pesto. The prawns were tender and juicy, making this a truly memorable dish.
Chef Scriber revealed that the most popular pasta dish is the Mafalde al Tartufo (RM 48). This dish featured homemade Mafalde pasta with house-made beef sausage, porcini mushrooms, and a creamy truffle sauce. The mafalde, a ribbon-shaped pasta with highly ruffled edges (said to be created in honour of Princess Mafalda of Savoy), almost resembled octopus tentacles and did an excellent job of capturing the rich, flavourful sauce. This dish truly packed a punch, and while incredibly delicious, its richness suggested it’s best shared between two or enjoyed as part of a multi-course meal.
Portofino Pizza
Beyond pasta, a true test of an Italian restaurant lies in its pizza. Portofino demonstrates its dedication to quality with its Pizza Burrata & Duck (RM 52). This pizza features a base of San Marzano tomato, topped with fior di latte mozzarella, fresh Italian burrata, smoked duck bacon, cherry tomatoes, and basil pesto. The result is a perfectly crisp pizza boasting a satisfyingly crunchy outer edge. Our photographer, Peter, noted the well-cured and balanced flavour of the thinly sliced duck bacon, which complemented the other ingredients without overpowering them. Notably, Portofino achieves this exceptional crust by using an oven imported directly from Italy.
Main Courses
For our first main course, we savoured the Duck Leg Confit (RM 56), a truly rich and comforting plate. The slow-cooked duck leg, finished with a delightful crispness from the oven, was beautifully complemented by creamy mashed potatoes, tender sautéed spinach, and the sweet and savoury notes of balsamic glaze and duck gravy. This dish, prepared through the age-old technique of salt-curing and slow-cooking in its own fat—a method popular in both French and Italian culinary traditions- was a delightful start to our main courses.
Our final main course was the Red Snapper Fillet (RM 62). This dish featured a pan-seared red snapper fillet with perfectly crisped skin and tender, flaky flesh, accompanied by asparagus, roasted potatoes, sweet cherry tomato confit, and a bright lemon cream sauce. Its light yet satisfying nature makes it an ideal choice for a healthy lunch or dinner, whether enjoyed individually or shared as part of a larger meal, as we did.
Dessert Menu
The Coffee Semifreddo (RM 24) offered a luscious finale for those craving something sweet. This classic Italian “half-frozen” dessert features a light and airy coffee mousse-like base, providing a cool and subtly sweet experience, which was beautifully contrasted by a crunchy chocolate crumble underneath and a generous pour of decadent chocolate sauce over the top; the elegant presentation with a delicate chocolate lattice and fresh mint sprig further enhanced this delightful interplay of textures and rich coffee and chocolate flavours.
Portofino Coffee
Knowing that Portofino imports its own branded coffee from a roastery near Chef Keli’s hometown, we naturally had to sample a few selections. We enjoyed a robust Long Black (RM 12), a refreshing Iced Long Black (RM 12), and a delightfully frothy Cappuccino (RM 14). Often overlooked in other establishments, the quality of this specially imported coffee, served under its own label, provided a genuinely fitting end to our meal. Each cup underscored their commitment to quality, even in the final sips.
Portofino Menu Review
Portofino at The Sphere Bangsar South delivers a consistently delightful and authentic Italian dining experience, upholding the standards of this established brand with a welcoming ambience and a menu of well-executed classic dishes now helmed by Chef Stefano Criber.
Reasons to try Portofino’s new menu: lovely green setting with seating either on a covered outdoor patio or cooled air-con dining area with glass walls; authentic Italian flavours; don’t miss the Pappardelle with Lamb Ragout, Mafalde al Tartufo and the sweet tooth must try the Coffee Semifreddo.
Portofino Bangsar South – Ristorante Italiano
No. 1, Avenue 1 Bangsar South City
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to Portofino Bangsar South on Google Maps
+6016 697 9741
@portofino.my [email protected] www.portofino.my
Portofino Opening Hours
Daily: 10 am – 11 pm
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