Via Pre Kuala Lumpur – Family-friendly Italian
Words: Joanna Florento
Photos: Peter Tan
Heartfelt and handmade, Via Pre Kuala Lumpur has been serving authentic Italian fare from its sun-dappled corner in Bukit Damansara since opening in 2016. Now, with an updated menu, there’s even more reason to return.
What’s immediately striking is that absolutely everything is lovingly prepared, from the delightful aroma of beef ragout stewing for maximum flavour to oven-fresh bread being carefully sliced and plated, enticing even when out of sight. Chef Max and Mauri Ranauro have created such an atmosphere of warmth and connection that when we take our seats by the window, we instantly feel at home and in the company of good friends. We’ve returned to sample their updated menu that launched in April and subsequently enjoy their new addition of sliding glass doors to the main dining area (making for a much cooler ambient temperature). It’s a sunny Saturday afternoon, and delectable homemade dishes await – andiamo!
Via Pre Kuala Lumpur Menu
Antipasto
To start our meal, we savour the antipasto. The House Chikketti (RM 35 regular, RM 68 large) is a riot of colour, with rocket salad, roasted mushrooms, pumpkin, roasted eggplant, purple cabbage, spicy fried baby squid, and beef bresaola with gorgonzola cheese. The eggplant bites are soft and creamy, supplemented well by pumpkin slices sprinkled with finely chopped purple cabbage. The beef bresaola is subtly sweet, beautifully tempering the bites of tangy gorgonzola it’s wrapped around. While I typically don’t crave baby squid, this time, I find myself reaching for seconds (and thirds) due to its delicate seasoning and tender texture.
The Duck Polpette (RM 34) is artfully plated, with wedges of air-fried farinata adorning air-fried duck meatballs centred on slices of capsicum carefully arranged around a serving of red onions and thyme compote. The duck is incredibly tender and flavourful, with a faint crunch in every bite. The air-fried farinata has a slightly sweet taste that dovetails well with the savoury compote and the smokiness from the roasted capsicum.
To keep things light, we dig into the Nice Salad (RM 49), a delightful combination of seared tuna steak, smoked ocean trout, and prawns resting on a bed of baby spinach and sprinkled with olives, tomato coulis, and lemon dressing. Eggplant bruschetta and more air-fried farinata border the salad on all sides and add an element of heartiness to every bite. The lemon dressing is tangy and fresh, expertly balancing out the smokiness from the trout and zesty prawns. I try to spear a little bit of everything onto my fork in one go, but this dish is so rich that it is impossible to gather everything together in a representative single bite – we’ll have to try again on our next visit!
The Passata Umbra Soup (RM 25) offers spoonful after hearty spoonful of Spanish green lentils expertly blended with onion, olive oil and thyme. Warming and filling, this soup is also high in protein, and the creamy lentils blend seamlessly with the sweet onions.
Pasta
I could wax poetic about the wonders of pasta for a long time; it takes a special place to compel me to stare at a pasta box rather than rush to eat its contents. Via Pre Kuala Lumpur does just that by showcasing its use of Mancini Pastificio Agricolo pasta, a small-batch artisanal pasta supplier that specialises in durum wheat pasta preserved with a cold-storage technique and dried at low temperature after being shaped by bronze dies. A QR code is displayed on its recycled packaging. A quick scan will show you the steps and dates the pasta went through each of the four stages of production, as well as specific information about the wheat field in which it was grown. This pasta is also higher in protein and lower in carbs than the standard restaurant fare.
That being said, as we blissfully dig into the Conchiglie Ragout Genovese (RM 39) and are told that the richness comes not from tomatoes but from the veal and beef ragout being slow-cooked for five hours, our bliss turns into awe. Featuring shell-shaped pasta, veal and beef ragout, olive oil, butter, and pecorino cheese, this dish proves that you don’t need a lot of fanfare for a delectable pasta creation. Each and every bite is rich and buttery, proving without a doubt why this is one of their most popular items.
The Spaghetti Aglio & Olio with Bottarga (RM 88) features spaghetti tossed in olive oil, garlic and chillies, topped with spicy sautéed Bottarga fish roe. The fish roe adds an element of brine, a saltiness reminiscent of summer by the ocean. We learn that the Bottarga roe is always sourced from Sardinia, as Chef Max and Mauri designed the dish to replicate a favourite childhood recipe from their aunt’s Sardinian farm.
Via Pre Kuala Lumpur Mains Menu
The La Genovese (RM 68) showcases 120 grams of pan-fried tuna steak adorned with prawns, scallops, and baby spinach salad peppered with bites of baby squid and purple cabbage. The tuna steak is incredibly soft and juicy, infused with a rich tomato flavour echoed in the cherry tomatoes sprinkled throughout.
We then turn our attention to the Wagyu Ribeye (RM 92), with 180 grams of wagyu ribeye steak on mushroom brodetto flanked by baby spinach salad and potato flan. The wagyu is appetisingly soft and tender, with its umaminess tempered by the zing of aged balsamico and sharp Grana Padano cheese tossed with the baby spinach salad. The potato flan is incredibly well-seasoned, with the layers of thinly sliced potatoes interspersed with a hint of truffle. Such is its appeal that I could easily devour a whole plate of potato flan and still want more.
Dessert
After our extensive culinary sojourn, we slowly wind down with dessert. The Angel Cake (RM 26) features two halves of blonde almond and cinnamon butter cake held together by cherry compote and green lime whipped fresh cream. This dessert is low sugar and gluten-free, an impressive feat for a dessert so flavourful. The cherry compote is a melding of sour and sweet, echoed by the tartness of the lime-infused whipped cream.
The Grappa and Berries Tiramisu (RM 32) is a delight, with sliced berries sprinkled atop layers of mascarpone and grappa-infused Savoiardi biscuits. The mascarpone is delicately sweet and creamy, while the berries add a dimension of tartness that cuts sharply into the brandy. The biscuits are soft and infused with an almost nutty chocolatiness from the grappa.
Finally, the Dark Chocolate Flan (RM 22) arrives to subvert our expectations. We dig through layers of whipped cream and vanilla gelato to access the dark chocolate nestled within. At first bite, this tastes like fresh vanilla bean, with subsequent caramel bites leading like candied breadcrumbs to the decadent chocolate inside, richly flavoured without overpowering the delicate cream. Sprigs of fresh mint keep this dessert textured and fresh-tasting.
Drinks Menu & Wine List
After waving ciao to the resident cat, we whet our appetites with the Hugo Aperitivo (RM 30), a refreshing cocktail that tastes like summer in a glass. With fresh mint and elderflower liquor mixed with prosecco and soda, this drink is light and invigorating while still keeping our palates (and appetites) open.
Via Pre Kuala Lumpur offers a solid wine selection by the glass, 500 mL carafe and bottle. We keep things light with the Sauvignon Blanc Mud House 2023 (RM 28 per glass, RM 90 per carafe, RM 148 bottle) from New Zealand, a crisp white wine with notes of grapefruit and melon. This pairs well with our antipasto. The Greco & Fiano Bianco Basilicata Pipoli 2022 (RM 36 glass, RM 110 carafe, RM 180 per bottle) has a fragrant bouquet and a drier profile, ensuring its seamless pairing with our pasta. We note its ability to bring out the flavours of the prawns and fish roe in particular.
Finally, we enjoy a glass of the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Sogno di Ulisse 2022 (RM 34 glass, RM 108 carafe, RM 178 per bottle), which is rich and soft on the palate. With notes of blueberry and black currant, this wine expertly complements our mains.
From the No-Lo Drinks menu, Via Pre Kuala Lumpur also showcases its low or sans-alcohol offerings. The Paloma Sbagliato ABV 3% (RM 25) is a low-alcohol tequila-based drink featuring a hint of kombucha alongside the usual salt and lime. The tequila tastes almost imperceptible while the kombucha adds a slightly fermented and fruity touch, and the hint of lime makes this drink taste like a tropical escape.
The Planteur Cocktail, ABV 3% (RM 28), features Caribbean tropical punch infused with French rum. In between sips, we learn that there is more to this drink than meets the eye: cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, passionfruit, orange juice, and pineapple juice work well in concert to create a natural sweetness devoid of added sugars. In addition, we note a slight nuttiness that adds an unexpected element to the drink.
Finally, we end our meal with a shot of Limoncello di Sorrento (RM 25), a punch of zesty lemon that lengthens into a lingering taste of sweetness tempered by bright acidity. It’s my first taste of Limoncello, and I enjoy it immensely.
Via Pre Kuala Lumpur Review
At the end of our visit, we wondered idly where the time went, but it’s no surprise when you’re in the company of excellent friends and outstanding food. It feels almost effortless to enjoy an entire afternoon here when everything, from the artisanal small-batch pasta to the carefully sourced fish roe, is a heartfelt endeavour. I say grazie di tutto while secretly planning my next visit – for the sunshine, good company, another sighting of their resident cat, and another delightful foray into Via Pre’s delightful and authentic taste of Italy.
Reasons to visit Via Pre Kuala Lumpur: Authentic, homemade Italian dishes with the freshest ingredients, delectable pasta offerings with small-batch artisanal Mancini Pastificio Agricolo pasta, extensive wine options by the glass and carafe, cosy neighbourhood feel, and outstanding service.
Via Pre Kuala Lumpur
25, Lorong Setiabistari 2, Bukit Damansara
50490 Kuala Lumpur
Link to Via Pre KL on Google Maps
@viapre_kl
+03-2011 2003
*Ample street parking is available on evenings and weekends. A spot on weekday lunches with school dismissal can be a little competitive – Grab or come early!
**Vegetarian and gluten-free options
Via Pre Kuala Lumpur Hours
Monday: Closed
Tuesday to Sunday: 11:30 am – 3:30 pm & 5:30 – 10:30 pm
Find more Italian restaurants in KL here and stay up-to-date on the latest happenings in KL’s food and beverage scene with The Yum List on Instagram and The Yum List on Facebook.