Vagabond KL – Desa Sri Hartamas, Pan Asian Restaurant & Bar
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Han Sen Hau
Vagabond KL is a delicious culmination of a journey undertaken by its founders, Chefs Woon Ming and Daniel Kong, alongside Daniel’s brother, Michael Kong. Their shared experiences, from Melbourne’s dynamic food scene to a flavour-filled backpacking odyssey across Australia, have been poured into this Desa Sri Hartamas gem. The result is a unique pan-Asian gastropub experience with a distinctly Malaysian heart. It aims to bring that cherished neighbourhood Australian gastropub concept – exceptional food, personal interactions, and reasonable prices – home.
Vagabond KL – Desa Sri Hartamas
In a cul-de-sac behind SOULed OUT and Wellcraft in Desa Sri Hartamas, Vagabond presents an intriguing face. Looking through the window, a raw, almost cavernous opening in the grey concrete interior walls reveals a busy, open kitchen with an industrial-chic aesthetic. This decor is strikingly punctuated by the frenetic, hand-scrawled energy of its red neon logo. Yet, step inside, and a different mood unfolds. Warm pendant lighting illuminates a long communal table, casting a welcoming glow on shelves laden with spirits and wines. This deliberate juxtaposition of stark materials with warmer lighting and the vibrant energy of an open kitchen powerfully hints at the progressive Asian experience Vagabond delivers.
The Drinks Menu: A Taste of Sarawak in KL
Michael Kong, who expertly manages the front of house, also curates an intriguing drinks list with a special nod to his Sarawakian roots. We were keen to try Sarawak’s 1602 Craft Beer and opted for the 1602 Extra Dark (RM 28). Poured into a traditional chilled glass mug, it surprisingly resembled a glass of dark cola rather than a heavy porter. It’s brewed to a lighter 4% alcohol content, reflecting the tropical climate where a more sessionable brew is preferred. It certainly went down very easily, a very quaffable and refreshing choice.
A highlight for us was the opportunity to explore traditional rice wine with a Tuak Tasting Flight (RM 30). Michael passionately shared the cultural significance of tuak for indigenous communities like the Iban and Bidayuh, where it’s integral to celebrations and daily life. We sampled three varieties. It was fascinating to discover the subtle flavour differences – even between two made with the same rice, in the same longhouse, by a husband and wife. It showcases the nuances of their individual methods. Our photographer, Han Sen, also noted how well the tuak complemented the food, rather than competing with it. It was an enlightening experience and a fantastic way to appreciate this traditional beverage.
Vagabond KL Menu
Our menu began with the Umai Pie Tee (RM16), a creation that is one of their most popular, and we could immediately see why. It’s undoubtedly very Instagrammable! It’s designed to be popped in the mouth and eaten whole. Instead of the usual shredded jicama, this version features blanched squid and an umai gel with a delicate scallop mousse as the base, all crowned with glistening ikura. We found it to be quite an experience in a single bite. It starts with a vibrant burst of acidity that cleverly mellows into sweetness and finishes with a delightful briny pop from the fish roe. The thin and crispy pastry tart shell itself is a nod to the beloved kuih pie tee.
The Devilled Chickpea Hummus (RM 24) reimagines a familiar dip with a creative Sri Lankan influence. The star is the ‘pol sambol,’ a vivid coconut relish where smoked, sun-dried Maldivian fish flakes impart a deep savouriness. This element, inspired by the flavours of Sri Lankan hoppers, offers a fantastic interplay of creamy hummus and the distinct texture of the sambol. It comes with kopia bread. This uniquely chewy bread from Sibu, Malaysia, proves sturdier and more effective for generous scooping than traditional pitta.
The Thai Scotch Egg (RM 26) immediately caught my eye, being a familiar favourite from my native UK. This version offers a distinct Asian interpretation. Instead of the customary sausage meat, a hard-boiled egg is enveloped in a generous coating of minced, seasoned prawns, then deep-fried to crispy perfection. It’s served alongside a refreshing yam khai dao. The Thai salad features aromatic fresh herbs, crunchy shredded cabbage, delicate courgette ribbons, and a kick of chilli, all brought together by a zesty, Thai-inspired sour-spicy dressing. Altogether, this dish beautifully marries global inspiration with distinctly Asian flavours – I’d suggest not sharing this one!
Vegetarian Option
A noteworthy vegetarian option, the Yam Abacus (RM 26) offers a unique take on a Hakka classic. The dish features wok-fried yam gnocchi – small, bead-like dumplings made from yam – served with an unconventional lemon-mint pesto and flavourful, spiced oyster mushrooms. The deep-fried mushrooms add a pleasing textural crunch to the otherwise soft and chewy gnocchi and stir-fried vegetables. Beyond its satisfying taste and portion, this dish holds cultural significance: known as Abacus Seeds, they are a symbol of abundance and prosperity.
Mains
Chef Woon thinks cabbage is having a moment, and their Miso Cabbage (RM 24) certainly offers a unique take. This dish features a wedge of charred cabbage, beautifully caramelised miso, and vibrant Thai basil miso. The mayonnaise is vegan, a thoughtful nod to the lot Vagabond now occupies, which was previously a vegan restaurant. The cabbage itself is charred on the barbecue grill, imparting a lovely smoky flavour. We detected a subtle hint of aniseed coming from the basil. What I particularly enjoyed, though, was the garnish. Instead of the more common fried shallots, there was a generous helping of deep-fried shredded cabbage. This added a concentrated, sweet cabbage flavour and a wonderful crisp texture.
Afterwards, we tried the Duck Char Siew (RM 72), which came with a side of steamed mantau – those classic, soft Chinese buns. However, the real star, though, was the date hoisin sauce. It was developed after ordering too many dates for Ramadan! I thought this gave the sauce a wonderful, rich caramel note, a clear upgrade from other hoisin sauces I’ve tasted. Our videographer, Ivan, was impressed with how flavourful and well-cooked the duck was.
To balance the richness of the duck, we chose the Heirloom Tomato Salad (RM 28). I always seek out Cameron Highlands heirloom tomatoes when they appear on menus. They have so much more flavour than many air-flown varieties. This salad was a perfect example. The tomatoes were artfully arranged on a bed of piquant sesame tamarind dressing, which provided a lovely tang. Crispy pangrattato (toasted breadcrumbs) added a delightful crunch, and garnishes of fresh mint leaves and pretty marigold petals made it both beautiful and tasty.
Dessert Menu
There’s always room for dessert, and in this case, we needed to make room for two! We had initially chosen to sample the Black Sesame Panna Cotta (RM 22). It’s a delightful Asian take on the traditional Italian dessert featuring honey, a light yuzu foam, and a crunchy kinako cracker. Moreover, the black sesame added intriguing, slightly savoury, nutty notes, and we thoroughly enjoyed its smooth, wobbly texture.
However, Chef Woon insisted we try the Bread and Butter Pudding (RM22), which he made using unsold croissants from local neighbour FASO Pâtisserie—a smart way to support small businesses and reduce food waste. The slightly stale pastries soaked up the rich custard beautifully, their firmer texture enhancing the pudding. The kitchen served it warm, topped with a quenelle of tonka bean ice cream from Licky Chan and a tangy yuzu-lemon marmalade made from lemons in Michael’s garden. Chocolate Concierge, Monica’s favourite, supplied the generous spill of chocolate chips studded throughout. As a result, this comforting dessert delivered thoughtful technique and local flavour in every bite.
Vagabond KL Review
In summary, Vagabond KL is an inspiring addition to Desa Sri Hartamas, successfully bringing the founders’ vision of a Pan-Asian gastropub to vibrant life. There’s a palpable energy here, and you can genuinely taste the inspiration drawn from their Australian experiences and Asian travels in the creative yet approachable food. Each dish cleverly melds diverse influences while passionately championing superb local Malaysian ingredients and producers. It’s the kind of establishment where inventive shared plates meet a thoughtfully curated drinks list. Furthermore, it’s all delivered with infectious enthusiasm and a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere that makes you want to linger.
Reasons to visit Vagabond KL: The inventive Umai Pie Tee for a surprising burst of flavour; the comforting and cleverly crafted Bread and Butter Pudding championing local collaborations; exploring the unique Sarawakian Tuak Tasting Flight; the relaxed gastropub vibe combined with creative Pan-Asian dishes.
A Note of Resilience and Support
Shortly after our visit, Vagabond KL unfortunately suffered a break-in. This resulted in the loss of valuable items, including their iPad, other personal belongings, and co-owner Michael’s treasured and rare whisky collection. This is a severe blow for any new independent business. We particularly feel for Michael and Chef Woon, whose enthusiasm for building their KL dream following their travels was truly inspiring. They bravely reopened and remain determined to persevere, undeterred. We wholeheartedly encourage The Yum List readers to support this resilient team by visiting Vagabond KL. Go and enjoy their exceptional food. It’s an experience we promise you won’t regret.
Vagabond KL
4, Jalan 28/70a, Desa Sri Hartamas,
50480 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Link to Vagabond KL on Google Maps
+6 032389 2020
@vagabond.kl
Vagabond KL Opening Hours
Monday: Closed
Tuesday: 5–10 pm
Wednesday – Sunday: 11:30 am–3 pm & 5–10 pm
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