Hidden River Estate, Winery & Restaurant Pemberton
Monica Tindall
Word travels fast in gourmet circles, and Hidden River Estate consistently topped the list when I asked where to dine in Pemberton. It’s hospitality with substance – it draws us in with quiet confidence and keeps us here with serious food, thoughtful wine, and a strong sense of self.
Hidden River Estate, Winery & Restaurant Pemberton
This storied estate began in earnest in 1994 when the Goldring family transformed a blank canvas of farmland into a thriving vineyard and a modest cellar door café. The original dining experience wasn’t housed in brick and mortar but in a restored tram carriage parked overlooking a small playground – a charming nod to humble origins that locals still speak of fondly. With the Nigg family’s stewardship since 2014, the café evolved into a fully formed restaurant by 2019. Still, happily, the sense of character and warmth has remained at its core. It’s no wonder every wine professional I know names this as the must‑dine spot in the region.
Drinks & Wine List
Wine is naturally centre stage here, with Hidden River’s own range anchoring an impressive drinks list. Their cool-climate expressions – from elegant Chardonnay (both oaked and unoaked) and Syrah to an enjoyable rosé (more rosé, I say!) and vibrant Blanc de Blancs that has spent five years patiently on its lees – are poured alongside the range from neighbouring vineyard, Picardy – one of the most respected wineries in WA. Craft beer lovers are well looked after too, with rotating taps, while cocktails lean seasonal and creative (check out their truffle martini!). There’s even a solid non-alcoholic selection, proving they’re not just catering to the connoisseurs.
Menu
The dining concept at Hidden River Estate is all about local and seasonal. The menu draws inspiration from modern European roots, layered with Middle Eastern flavours, resulting in hearty mains, generous sharing platters and delicate desserts. Vegetarian, gluten‑ and dairy‑free options ensure it’s inclusive without compromising on taste. Each dish sings of the Southern Forests—from farm gate to forest—yet delights with spice, warmth and the unexpected twists of za’atar, sumac or preserved lemon.
Sharing
The Hidden River Platter (A$94) is a celebration of the region’s finest small-batch producers and a delicious exercise in contrasts—sharp against sweet, creamy against crisp. A colourful array of pickles, kraut, anchovies, and caper berries brings a tangy snap, softened by a trio of thinly cut cured meats. Meanwhile, beetroot chutney and the creamiest, most balanced hummus I’ve ever tasted round things out with an earthy sweetness, gentle spice, and a touch of nuttiness. The variety of bread for spreading is equally diverse, with Turkish bread, beetroot and charcoal crisps, and little squares of seeded toasts. It’s the kind of platter that invites lingering conversation, one mouthful at a time, and best enjoyed with several friends (really, it’s huge!).
The 2023 Hidden River Rosé (A$14) is its natural companion—dry, lively, and just fruit-forward enough to tango with the chutney while cutting neatly through the briny edges. With its bright acidity and cool-climate poise, it holds the platter’s riot of flavours in balance, refreshing the palate and urging another bite. Or sip. Preferably both. (Not what I photographed, face palm, what we drank.)
Mains
There’s a quiet confidence to the Vegetarian Main (A$37)—a dish that wins us over with texture, balance and a sense of integrity. Roasted sweet potato brings gentle sweetness, grounded by earthy Puy lentils and roasted cauliflower, while a scattering of goat cheese feta lends creamy, tangy punctuation. Lemon parsley oil lifts the entire plate, adding a touch of brightness that lingers.
The Fish of the Day (A$48) follows suit with equal restraint and precision—light, fresh and quietly inventive. A delicate fillet is paired with kiwi and rocket, given an unexpected lift by native finger lime and a rosé glaze that hums in the background rather than dominating (but, oh boy, is this dressing delicious!). It’s a dish designed to let pristine local produce shine.
Both mains find a clever ally in the 2023 Hidden River Estate Unwooded Chardonnay (A$14). Its crisp acidity slices cleanly through the richness of the vegetarian dish, while citrus notes echo the lemon oil and highlight the natural sweetness of the sweet potato. With the fish, it’s a textbook match—bright fruit, a clean finish, and just enough zing to meet the finger lime and kiwi head-on, enhancing rather than overwhelming.
Sides
Sides here are far from an afterthought. Seasonal Greens (A$14) – broccoli, snap peas, French beans and asparagus – come dressed in a punchy chermoula, adding herbaceous depth and a whisper of spice. Baby Carrots (A$14) are roasted until just tender, then finished with a swirl of labneh, a chardonnay glaze, and a dusting of sumac—sweet, tangy, and quietly luxurious.
Truffle Season @ Hidden River Estate
Winter in Pemberton means one glorious thing: truffle season. At Hidden River, this translates into a handful of decadent specials that let the region’s prized fungi shine. And, even better, it’s not just regional – these black beauties have been harvested from Hidden River’s very own estate. If you’d like to take some home, check out the display near the entrance for a range of truffle-inspired products, and even the fresh fungi itself.
Not one for sweets, I skip dessert in favour of the Crumbed Truffle Brie with Persian Carrot Jam (A$29)—a rich and rewarding end to the meal for those who prefer savoury over sweet. The exterior is golden and crisp, giving way to molten brie laced with truffle’s unmistakable perfume, while the carrot jam offers a sweet, spiced counterpoint.
To drink? The Picardy Pinot Noir 2022 (A$21), naturally. Crafted just up the road by Dan Pannell, it’s a benchmark for the region—supple, refined, and earthy enough to echo the truffle while lifting the richness with its bright red fruit and fine acidity. Meanwhile, my husband (with his ever-loyal sweet tooth) takes the dessert route—more on that shortly.
Sweets
For those with a taste for the sweet side of things, the Pumpkin Semifreddo (A$20) is a comforting finish. Silky and gently spiced, it arrives layered with chocolate halva, pumpkin jam, and a pepita cardamom brittle that delivers crunch and warmth in equal measure. It’s a dessert that feels both nostalgic and novel—familiar flavours, reimagined with flair. Hubby polishes off every bite, happily confirming that skipping dessert was my loss.
Hidden River Estate Pemberton Review
Word does travel fast in gourmet circles—and for good reason. Hidden River Estate delivers a dining experience that speaks softly but leaves a lasting impression: thoughtful, grounded, and full of quiet surprises. It’s not just a place to eat in Pemberton—it’s the reason to linger.
Reasons to visit Hidden River Estate, Winery & Restaurant Pemberton: incredibly beautiful views from its hilltop perch; delicious farm-to-table menu with an exciting thread of Middle Eastern flavour; warm hospitality – thank you Ardal, Jamie, and Erin for making our meal a memorable one; the cellar door for the legendary wines of Picardy.
Hidden River Estate, Winery & Restaurant Pemberton
156 Mullineaux Road
Pemberton 6260, Western Australia
+61 (0)8 9776 1437
hiddenriverestate@gmail.com
Link to Hidden River Estate on Google Maps
www.hiddenriver.com.au
@hiddenriverestatewinery
*Vegetarian, gluten and dairy-free options
Hidden River Estate Hours
Wednesday to Sunday: 11 am – 4 pm
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