|Mulberry Restaurant and Bar|
Celebrate the Festive Season, Christmas Eve 24th December 2013 at Mulberry Restaurant and Bar
Words by Kirsten Durward
Photos by The Yum List (Monica Tindall)
If you’re ready for a feast this Christmas Eve, Mulberry’s intimate yet personable ambience may be just what you are looking for. There is a laid back soft seating section as you enter but we are seated in the more elegant dining room where a subtle glowing white Christmas tree, adds just enough festive atmosphere. Our friendly host, restaurant manager Shanee, enthusiastic, is developing a modern fresher aspect in Mulberry. Jazzy, bluesy music blends the background, the 1920’s feel echoed by large soft black and white paintings of musical and performance icons on the rough brick walls.
|Mulberry Restaurant and Bar|
We’re here to taste the Christmas Eve menu, a four-course dinner that includes a glass of red or white wine, which at RM180++ per person, is an amazing deal for the quality of food we experienced. Further wine can be ordered at RM90++ per bottle.
First to arrive is a generous portion of rich and shiny seafood bisque and the first thing I notice is the chunk of lobster in the centre. It’s beautifully plated, warm and nourishing, with seared scallop and prawns, as well as a delectably soft lobster. Fortunately for our seafood averse companion, Caning, a rich Mushroom Soup (RM15++ from a la carte menu) is offered as a vegetarian option. The delightfully creamy texture with thick chunks of mushrooms is totally more-ish; we all agree that it’s a great dish.
The accompanying glass of Australian Chardonnay Pinot Grigio (Deakin Estate) 2012 is pale straw in colour with attractive grapefruit aromas, and a crisp, refreshing palate of citrus flavours which complements the soup well, cutting through the strong deep flavour and creamy texture.
|Deakin Estate White Wine|
Beetroot and Orange Infused Salmon Gravlax is a riot of colours and textures like a spring garden with all the flowers out. ‘It’s almost too beautiful to eat!’ we exclaim and gaze with pleasure, feasting our eyes before diving into the scattered yet perfectly balanced dish. Tastes are combined spectacularly and the pops of ikura pearls are a positive pleasure on the palate while the freshness of the pomelo on the relish complements the sweetness of the beetroot, and slender rounds of sharp radish oppose soft pieces of avocado in the best possible way. ‘Chef has outdone himself with this dish!’ exclaims Monica, just as I think it has definitely been composed with love.
|Beetroot and Orange Infused Salmon Gravlax|
There is a choice of three mains, so as we are three, we try each one in order to be able to give the reader the benefit of all taste choices. A vegetarian option can also be arranged.
Seared Cumin-Dusted Red Snapper is crusted in a crunchy ground rice coating with black sesame Japanese seven-spice and celery salt. It has an original disctinct flavour and we all love the crunch of the coating and the soft firm white flesh of the perfectly cooked fish. The risotto has a perfect texture with real zest of lemon through out and the drizzle of pistachio wasabi pistou around the outside adds a different tingle amongst the fiddlehead ferns and fennel salsa. ‘Pretty spectacular!’ says Mon, and we other two nod as our mouths are still full!
|Seared Cumin-Dusted Red Snapper|
The next decadent dish is Carbernet Merlot Braised Wagyu Beef Cheeks braised on a low fire for five hours to bring a truly melt-in-the-mouth sensation which has Monica crying, ‘You only need a butter knife, this is so soft!’ The taste is enhanced with a generous topping of foie gras while a scattering of giblets add flavour and texture to the meaty aspect of the dish. Purple russet, sweet potato and celeriac combine in a spectular mash,which is just splendid for mopping up onion marinade and the port and morel gravy. The onion’s been caramelized with white wine, grenadine and butter over a slow fire. The deep red, combining with a generosity of green herbs, plays with the Christmas colours and feel. We all agree it’s a spectacular dish and should be on the main dinner menu.
|Cabernet Merlot Braised Wagyu Beef Cheeks|
Marinated Lemon Grass and Rosemary Grilled Lamb rack is another fabulous composition, thick chunks of pink lamb rest on a timbal of carrot and pumpkin rosti, roasted in the oven for extra texture. ‘I like to play,’ chuckles Chef de Cuisine Rajesh Subra, describing the three types of carrot in this dish. As well as the timbal, we have glazed baby carrots and a mild Saint Maure carrot emulsion with goat’s cheese and crème fraiche. Sweet onions, chive and roasted asparagus all complement the soft texture and dense flavour of the fresh tasting lamb. As Chef says, there are so many different ways you can use one simple ingredient in a dish. Judging by the empty plates, we all concur with this.
|Lemongrass and Rosemary Grilled Lamb Rack|
With the meat we’ve moved on taste the red wine the Deakin Estate Shiraz Viognier 2012. It’s spicy and fruity, with mulberry and plum aromas, the nuances of orange and cinnamon complementing the complex dishes without overwhelming them. We feel the choices of wine for this menu have been well thought out, as well as being well priced.
|Deakin Estate Red Wine|
Dessert is ooooh (!) so pretty, with juicy berries scattered over a cherry compote and Ginger Bread, Mocha and Rum Mascarpone Charlotte. The gingerbread is firm with a good hit of spice; the rum mascarpone is light with just the right hint of mocha. The berries burst with freshness, leading to a tiny chocolate-topped brownie as an extra extravagant treat to end the meal. We feel that Chef is passionate, really taking care, thinking everything through with attention to the tiniest of details.
|Ginger Bread, Mocha and Rum Mascarpone Charolotte|
The meal feels festive and playful, looks luscious without, the tastes are delightful, we feel like we’re splurging; yet the bill doesn’t reflect a huge cost. The Christmas Eve menu is strictly by reservation only, please reserve by Friday December 20th.
If you’re away for Christmas drop by in January to enjoy the ambience and try the regular dinner menu. Worth fighting the traffic down Jalan Ampang for, Mulberry has enclosed free parking around the back, but if it is full there are two further parking lots in the area. Mulberry offers a host of local and international dishes, catering for a range of tastes, but also well known for their salads. I’d certainly go back.
Reasons to visit: elegant yet relaxed atmosphere; wonderful portions of original, spectacular tasting food; reasonable prices; good quality affordable wines.
Bangunan Ming Annexe
9 Jalan Amapang
50450 Kuala Lumpur
+603 2078 8830