Japanese Restaurant Damansara

Toji Sake Bar, Medan Damansara, Japanese Bar

Toji Sake Bar, Kampai!!

Words: T.Jay  Photos: Monica Tindall

Toji Sake Bar is new to Jalan Kasah, a cosy strip of restaurants in Medan Damansara. From the outside, it is unassuming and looks small. But inside it somehow expands. It is a dark, hip, minimalist urban bar. The deep blue lights and black mirrors sometimes made me feel as if I was floating in space and at other moments, I felt like I was in a deep recess under a mountain.

The space is small and intimate, broken into three areas; the bar; a slightly elevated dining area and a semi-private table under the electric glow of an early morning street scene, looking up at Mt. Fuji.

Toji Sake Bar Damansara
Toji Sake Bar
Toji Sake Bar Jalan Kasah
Toji Sake Bar

Toji Sake Bar – Drinks Menu

Sake, an alcohol-based drink made from fermented rice, is the national drink of Japan. It is as diverse as the four seasons and is as distinct as the region from where it was produced. Sake traditionally is served in a 720ml bottle because the masu, the original square vessel used to measure rice, was 180ml – giving four precise serves. Before the rice is brewed, it is polished to remove the bran. The bran is removed to remove protein and fat, which can lead to a harsh flavour. Typically, the more the rice is polished, the more refined the final sake is. Kampai is the way to say cheers in Japanese. So, kampai!

The first selection of sake for us, Kaiun Iwazake Special Honjozo, 720ml (RM186) can be enjoyed either cold or warm. Sake can be enjoyed at many different temperatures, and each temperature range has a specific name. We first drank it Reishu, chilled between 5-10C. Then we enjoyed it Atsu-kan, around 50C to note the differences in the experience.

When the Kaiun Iwazake Special Honjozo was served cold, it was smooth, fruity, sweet and very well rounded. We then drank it warm, the alcohol vapour leapt up towards my nose while tasting and later was rereleased through my nose on my exhale. There is a much stronger umami taste as the amino acids are heated up. The natural oils came forward, and it felt more unctuous. Everything was slightly magnified.

Toji Sake Bar Jalan Kasah
Kaiun Iwazake Special Honjozo

Toji Sake Bar Appetizers

Torched Shiro Maguro (RM28) was simply presented with ponzu, heirloom tomatoes, wasabi and kaffir lime oil. The fish had a pleasant meaty quality. The soy in the ponzu added depth to the smoke, and the tomatoes brought forth a burst of acidity. The wasabi was soft and lingering at the end of each bite.

Toji Sake Bar Jalan Kasah
Torched Shiro Maguro

I am an adventurous eater, but honestly, I have never tried Deep Fried Prawn Head (RM22), and I looked at the plate apprehensively. It was also simply plated and elegant. I picked up my chopsticks and dove in. I was greeted by tabasco aioli, the pleasantly salty pop of ikura (salmon caviar), and the most tantalising crunch. It was really good! The experience reminded me of when I was 12, and I tried escargot for the first time. This is a nice light starter.

Toji Sake Bar Jalan Kasah
Deep Fried Prawn Head

Sparkling Sake

My favourite sake of the night was Nanbu Bijin Awa Sparkling Sake, 720ml (RM480), having a slightly milky appearance with small bubbles. The smell of lychee and cotton candy wafted up to the top of the wine glass. However, the taste is like rock melon and only slightly sweet.

Toji Sake Bar Jalan Kasah
Nanbu Bijin Awa Sparkling Sake

Bar Bites

Grilled Local Squid (RM38) is a powerful small plate! The squid is cold-smoked and then grilled. The taste reminded me of smoked bacon. The shoyu buere noisette (burnt butter sauce) scallion and nori add depth and character. While the layering of the smoky elements is heavy, it is not overpowering. The nori elevates the squid, maintaining the natural salinity.

Honestly, the Smoked Chicken Katsu (RM25) did not look like much. It is hard to make a sandwich look sexy. But this sandwich will wow you! A smoked, minced chicken patty filled with pieces of prawn, lightly battered and fried crisp. Served on toasted milk bread with a sauce made of mayo and spicy mustard. Bright pink pickled cabbage rounded out the flavours. I swear, if this sandwich had cheese, I would call it a Japanese Rueben. This is a must-try as is! But I think with a little more tweaking this could easily become a Toji signature dish.

Japanese Restaurant Damansara
Smoked Chicken Katsu

When we were served the next plate, Japanese Carbonara (RM24), my mind immediately shut down. I thought, “What?” Japanese carbonara! How?” It was the biggest surprise of the night. A beautiful plate of capellini pasta tossed with a kombu emulsion, bacon and ikura. It is exactly what it claims to be – Japanese carbonara!

Toji Sake Bar Jalan Kasah
Japanese Carbonara – Toji Sake Bar

Artisanal Sake

Due to newer technology in production, fragrant sakes are often served in wine glasses. The glass captures the delicate aromas and directs them to your nose as you sip, increasing the taste experience of the sake. Mutsu Hassen Hanaomoi 40, Junmai Daiginjo, 720ml (RM658) is one of those sakes that you want to savour the experience. It is the flagship sake of the Hachinohe Shuzo producers from the Aomori, a northern region of Japan. The rice was highly polished at 40% and had an abv of 16%. The experience of this sake was one that I have never had previously. There are soft notes of bubble gum and a quick finish to the taste. It is important to note, unlike a scotch whiskey, a high-quality sake should have a quick finish. The sugar content is slightly higher, producing legs in the glass when swirled gently. From start to finish this is a very refined drink.

Toji Sake Bar Jalan Kasah
Mutsu Hassen Hanaomoi 40, Junmai Daiginjo

Something Heavier from Stoked

While dining at Toji Sake Bar, there is the option to order off the menu from the restaurant next door: Stoked. It really changes the dynamic of your dining experience. It truly becomes a choose your own adventure setting.

From the Stoked menu, Stanbroke Wagyu Oyster Blade (MB6) (200g) RM124 and the signature Pork Lard Clay Pot Rice (2pax) RM20 were the first things ordered.

The oyster blade was cooked in a Bertha oven, a charcoal/wood-fired oven, imported from the UK. Oyster blade is becoming a popular cut of beef to use among chefs because it has a slightly chewy texture and a lot of flavour, including iron and a very mild liver taste. The steak was beautifully rested and served with a sauce that I can only describe as a red wine – teriyaki reduction: dark in colour, slightly syrupy, a hint of bitterness. The sauce is an excellent contrast to the richness of the wagyu. All the steaks are served with smoked salt and sea salt on the side. The accompaniment was steamed kailan (Chinese broccoli), rocket and smoked seaweed powder.

Japanese Restaurant Damansara
Stanbroke Wagyu Oyster Blade – Toji Sake Bar

The Pork Lard Claypot Rice is the stuff that legends are made of. Sarawak heirloom highland adan rice is slowly fried in pork lard to create a nutty crunch in the dish and then steamed with Japanese kirana rice. It is reminiscent of paella rice with a beautiful crunch on the bottom and fluffy rice on top.

Japanese Restaurant Damansara
Pork Lard Claypot Rice

Tori Karaage (RM23) is also well-executed. It’s marinated chicken with a thin crispy fried coating. The mirin, miso, mustard sauce was great.

Toji Sake Bar Jalan Kasah
Tori Karaage

Also, from Stoked, is the Smoked Roasted Chicken Kampung (Half Chicken RM68). This is not your normal chicken. It is more of a delicacy, having a little less meat and a much chewier, but flavourful texture. The smoke was well-balanced, heightening the natural flavour of the chicken.

Japanese Restaurant Damansara
Smoked Roasted Chicken Kampung – Toji Sake Bar

The Stanbroke Wagyu Tri-Tip (MB5) (200g) RM94 is another steak from the Stoked menu. The tri-tip is one of the cuts that butchers favour most. It has a pleasant beefy taste equal to that of a ribeye. And while it is a lean steak, there is enough fat to give a buttery mouthfeel with a soft, tender chew. This is a great steak and is always my go-to on a restaurant menu.

Toji Sake Bar
Stanbroke Wagyu Tri-Tip

Dessert

The finale from the Stoked menu was a delightful Sticky Date Pudding with Milk Ice Cream (RM24). We sprinkled just a few grains of sea salt on top, which served to harmonise the sweetness and keep us digging back in until there was no more.

Toji Sake Bar Jalan Kasah
Sticky Date Pudding

Reasons to visit Toji Sake Bar: Beautifully executed Japanese food prepared with French cooking techniques; a dark, high energy, intimate dining and drinking space; and excellent sake menu with a master sake sommelier on-site many evenings.

Toji Sake Bar
122 Jalan Kasah, Medan Damansara
50490 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
+60 3 2011 3598
www.facebook.com/toji.sakebarmy

Toji Sake Bar Opening Hours
Monday – Saturday, 17:00 – late. (Due to the RMCO, it is best to call to clarify hours of operation before your visit.)

Reservations are essential as it is an intimate sake bar with limited tables.

Find more Japanese restaurants here, and stay up to date with the latest food and beverage happenings in KL here and here.

One Comment

  1. Japanese Carbonara sounds interesting!

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