Japas by Jeff Ramsey, Damansara Heights, Japanese

Japas by Jeff Ramsey

Words: Kitty Noble
Photos: Monica Tindall

Chef Ramsey, an acclaimed chef who boasted Michelin stars in Tokyo, opened his Damansara restaurant, Babe, five years ago. A conceptual high-end Japanese-based tasting-menu restaurant, the MCO lent the opportunity to create something more approachable and friendly, whilst maintaining its signature quality, both in ingredients and their preparation. With that came the transformation and rebirth of Babe into its new nomenclature Japas by Jeff Ramsey.

Japas by Jeff Ramsey

Besides the shake-up of their menu, the restaurant space has also had a makeover. Plants adorning the restaurant create a more homely, comforting and softer feel, whilst the addition of the sashimi counter gives the diner a peek into ‘behind-the-scenes’ of their slick kitchen. All of these features are offset by the wrap-around pool and extensive views across the city, to the KL and Twin Towers creating a luxurious experience for this destination establishment.

Menu

The food, as with traditional tapas, is designed to be shared. You may opt to build a full menu and make a dinner of it, or have a couple of nibbles and wine, catch the sunset then continue on your bar-hopping journey. But get there soon, before their relocation plans for the middle of next year.

Plates are divided into small, large, nibbles, sashimi and dessert. There is a good selection of drinks to complement the japas, including 30 different sakes, 15 of which are by the glass at very reasonable prices. Wines are broken down into sip-size pages, with descriptors such as ‘bold and fruity.’ It is understandable and simple language allowing the least knowledgeable of us to make an informed choice. The other notable point to make is the more accessible pricing compared to the previous incarnation.

Wine

To tantalise our tastebuds, we start with a Grüner Veltliner. It’s one of my favourite grape varietals, thanks to its freshness and minerality. Laurenz V Anna Sunny (RM 240 per bottle) has all of the typical characteristics of the grape with a sharp flintiness due to the loess terroir. Ripe, white stone fruit, balances with the pungent florality oft associated with Riesling. It pairs particularly well with the sashimi to come.

Whilst I LOVE Japanese food in all its varying glorious forms, I have to look up what an ingredient is in practically every dish… so here, I’ve done the hard work for you, in case you are as ignorant as me!

Japas by Jeff Ramsey Menu – Small Plates

As a little nibble, we start with Smoked Edamame (RM 16). The beans, still in their casing are brined and then smoked over maple wood. This is a guilt-free, low-calorie snack and a perfect accompaniment to pop in your mouth with a glass of wine or beer.

New to me, Engawa Tsukudani (RM 49) is simmered flounder fin with mustard seed. Apparently a delicacy (have you heard about this?), the fin is braised for a very precise 1 minute 45 seconds and bathed in a marinade of soy, sake and mirin to bring out the best texture. Surprisingly similar in mouth-feel to oyster, it has a deep earthy flavour which pairs fantastically with the crunchy mustard seed and the afore-mentioned wine.

Our next bite is Smoked Ikura Tartlette (RM 34) with fromage blanc and yuzu, a play on smoked salmon and cream cheese. The delicate tartlette is presented under a cloche, where it has been smoked with Yakusugi powder, a Japanese cedar. What’s particularly fascinating about this story, is the cedar. Aged between one and seven THOUSAND years, they are protected and (not surprisingly) forbidden to be felled. However, when the branches drop, they are harvested and sold for a pretty penny. The pastry is wafer-thin with the creamy filling balanced with the briny pop of the salty roe, to create a complete mouthfeel. The smoke enveloping the tart is a fun addition to the dish.

Pulpo Ajillo (RM 58) sees Japanese octopus, marinated in garlic oil and served with aioli, topped with Spanish smoked paprika and chimichurri with a Japanese twist. Lime makes way for yuzu and parsley is replaced with mizuna and lemon on an attractive slate. Not chimichurri as we know it, but lighter and fresher. The octopus is a little on the chewy side, as this is the preferred way of serving in the Japanese culture.

Next, we sample the Toro Truffle (RM 138), comprising tuna belly with Tsukudani juice (the same soy sauce, sake and mirin combo mentioned earlier). Topped with a little caviar to add some salinity this had everything going on, with every flavour sense being tingled. Fun fact. Toro is the fatty, belly part of the tuna, which melts in the mouth. Frequently used for sashimi but equally delicious as a steak. This was a clear winner for both Mon and me.

Continuing our underwater extravaganza, we were served Uni & Shiromi (RM 145). Seasoned white sashimi (this week it was sea bream), ogo nori (red seaweed), sea urchin (that’s the uni bit of it), truffled ponzu (a citrusy soy sauce), spring onion and kaiware (sprouted daikon radish seeds) to add a peppery texture. The sauce has a lightness to it, the freshness of the fish evident with every morsel. We were instructed to eat each serving in one go, without folding it, to really appreciate the sea urchin. Served in an elegant gold-rimmed bowl this dish really screams ‘high-end’.

Large Plates

The first of our larger plates is the Yuan Miso Marinated Salmon (RM 120). The salmon is teppan-grilled, after marinating in miso, served with an anchovy cream, dill oil and ikura (salmon roe). The salmon is expertly cooked with a char on the outside and gorgeously pink in the middle served in a hearty portion with little bubbles of pink joy exploding in the mouth.

Already feeling our bellies swelling, we are served Japanese Wagyu Striploin (RM 398, 200gm) – A5 Kagoshima Beef with assorted yakumi (condiments to you and I) with daikon, mustard, pickled Szechuan paper, Dijon mustard, yuzu kosho. I exaggerate not when I say that it is like slurping up the finest foie gras, with the texture of temperate butter. The steak LITERALLY melted in the mouth (and I abhor the over-use of the word literally, so trust me when I say it did). The fat beautifully marbled throughout the meat made for a fantastic delight, compounded by the expert seasoning and cooking of the slightly textured exterior. This would be the one dish I would go for, time and again.

As ever, we both love a good salad, and that’s exactly what we got with the Kale & Smoked Salmon (RM 35). Additionally, radish and lemon with a yummy sesame dressing was bright, crisp and perfect for the lighter appetite or to complement the previously mentioned dishes.

More Wine

The wine suggested to pair with our steak was Marsilea Bobal, a Premier Organic Red (RM 35). It has an interesting blend of bright red fruits, particularly Scottish raspberry, dark fruits and cigar box tendencies from the oak, giving way to some decent tannin, but a low 12.5% alcohol, making it equally quaffable on its own.

Dessert – Japas by Jeff Ramsey

As with all good meals, we round off with a sweet treat.

The first of our desserts is Hojicha Crème Caramel (RM 22). A childhood favourite of mine, is elevated by a modern, Japanese twist by combining roasted green tea and sanontou sugar (Japanese cane sugar). The flavour of the tea is apparent and gives a beautiful savoury element. Normally one to take just a small bite of the pud for reporting purposes, I couldn’t help myself repeatedly diving back in, having unashamedly finished the whole dish.

Another winner and point of pride is Melon White Wine (RM 28). Melon balls with melon sorbet, fresh blueberries, wine jelly, yellow yuzu curd are all prettily served in a delicate glass bowl. A light, fresh and delicious dish. Summer in a plate, once again, after Mon has had her taster, I polished off the lot. Tangy and fresh with a slightly sour hit.

We paired the sweets with Sake Takacho (RM 320 bottle). The traditional method used here dates back to the 1400s. Using the natural yeast from the air, as opposed to adding it in during production, creates a complex body with excellent viscosity. Not being a huge fan and therefore connoisseur of sake, but having tried a few over the years, I found this to be the nicest one I have ever tried.

Reasons to visit Japas by Jeff Ramsey: That steak!! Spectacular views across the city; eclectic fusion dishes; reasonable and varied wine and sake offerings.

Japas by Jeff Ramsey
11th Floor, WORK@Clearwater,
Changkat Semantan, Bukit Damansara
50450 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
www.facebook.com/babegastro
+6 013 209 1330

Japas by Jeff Ramsey Opening Hours
Tuesday to Sunday: 5:30-10 pm

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