Small Shifting Space Chinatown KL

Small Shifting Space (SSS), Jalan Petaling, Chinatown KL

Small Shifting Space (SSS)

Words: Monica Tindall
Photos: Rich Callahan

Every now and then, we find a place that truly excites us. A team willing to take risks and veer from the norm. An original location that offers both uniqueness and warmth. Genuine service that comes from a sense of belonging and ownership. And a menu that stays with us, returning to our thoughts at odd times. Small Shifting Space (SSS) on Jalan Petaling is that latest discovery. 

In one of the hippest parts of the city, it takes creativity to stand out. SSS has done that with style and substance. Shiny metal doors slide open to a compact area downstairs. Here you can see directly into the open kitchen and barista bar. Exposed brick and cement walls are the backdrop for grey marble tables and textured panelling. Upstairs is a large open floor, ideal for events. Furthermore, coming soon is a glass-covered balcony well-suited for use as a private room. Tying it all together are funky tunes on quality speakers. While there is still work to be completed, it is shaping up nicely.

Co-owner Lee ZT says that he was “unsure of what to do with the space for quite some time.” Whenever he was out on food adventures, he was always looking for “hole in the wall spots that were great to hang out indoors or out; places that were approachable.” He wanted the same for Small Shifting Space. Additionally, he dreamed of “building an experience where the space has a character of its own. If you go in, you learn something; you walk out with something new.” His team aim to give their guests something different. They are always thinking, “What else can we offer?” 

Besides considering the guest experience, he also wanted to create a platform for young or local chefs returning from abroad to hone their craft. “SSS is a space to tell a story,” adds Lee. Similar to an “artist in residence,” Small Shifting Space hosts chefs in residence usually for around four to five weeks. As such, menus are constantly evolving. Chefs know that they can come and try new things, test the kitchen and audience. Lee encourages all to “come and experience it yourself. “

Small Shifting Space Chinatown KL
Small Shifting Space (SSS)
Cool restaurant Petaling Street Kuala Lumpur
Small Shifting Space, Jalan Petaling

Drinks Menu

Mornings might see me at the barista bar sipping on a coffee made with locally roasted beans. Evenings though, deserve wine (I have made it through another day, after all). Small Shifting Space has an elegant list of organic and biodynamic wines that are particularly pleasing to my personal preferences.

Cool restaurant Petaling Street Kuala Lumpur
Coffee

I begin with the Spanish Bodegas Bhilar, Bhilar White (RM 240 bottle). It’s rather dark in the glass, and the aroma is not too far off sherry; quite unusual for a white. Dominantly Viura with 10% Garnacha Bianca, this biodynamic wine has high minerality and a good balance between creamy notes and sharpness. Less than 6000 bottles are produced annually, so we’re fortunate to be sipping on it this far away from its home. 

Small Shifting Space Chinatown KL
Bodegas Bhilar, Bhilar White

I think rose is an excellent choice for Malaysian weather and food. However, the versatility of the wine is often overlooked. I’m glad to see more menus including it in their by-the-glass options. On Small Shifting Space’s wine list, the Amador Medrano Rose, DOC (RM 190 bottle) is also from Rioja, Spain, just as the Bhilar White. Tempranillo, Viura and Grenache grapes compose a dry, light-bodied drop that offers plenty of acidity and freshness and a lingering finish. 

Cool restaurant Petaling Street Kuala Lumpur
Amador Medrano Rose, DOC

Again, hailing from the same region, the biodynamic, Bodegas Bhilar, Lágrimas de Graciano (RM 224), provides a fine mate for the duck later in our meal. The nose carries plentiful red fruit, which is further brightened by eucalyptus. It’s full-bodied and fresh and excellent value for the quality.

Small Shifting Space Chinatown KL
Bodegas Bhilar, Lágrimas de Graciano

Lunch Menu

Chef Stephen Francis Klassen currently takes the lead on the menu at Small Shifting Space. The listing is the ideal size in our minds. It’s compact enough to ensure everything is done well but with sufficient variety to please a range of palates. Recipes may vary slightly depending on the availability of the freshest ingredients. 

Small Shifting Space Chinatown KL
Chef Stephen Francis Klassen

Pancakes (RM 16) at Small Shifting Space could be breakfast, lunch or dessert, depending on your preference. An enticing combination of sweet and savoury is what makes them so versatile. Thick, fluffy and semi-souffle in style, the cloud-like tower is complemented by butter, sea salt and rosemary syrup. 

Cool restaurant Petaling Street Kuala Lumpur
Pancakes

Also, with mornings in mind, a magnificent hangover cure might be found in the Fried Chicken & Potato Galette (RM 34). The two plump pieces of poultry provide the necessity of a light layer of grease, and the potato layers ensure any remaining liquor from the night before is soaked up. The secret to the succulent flesh is brining before battering and deep-frying. It’s hugged by a dark coating, deliciously enhanced by Chef Francis’ chamomile syrup that comes from plants he grows his own garden!

Small Shifting Space Chinatown KL
Fried Chicken & Potato Galette

If you order nothing else on the menu, don’t miss the Tortellini (RM 28)! It’s a beautiful bowl of pasta parcels sprinkled with greens and edible flowers. There’s shroom jam, and a fantastic consommé of mushroom, soy sauce and root vegetables. A bright orange egg yolk sits in the middle, just begging to be burst. The broth is so good I want to pick up the bowl and slurp it from the rim. I consider taking it away solely for the purpose of sucking it up loudly at home without shame. Another to go, please!

Small Shifting Space Chinatown KL
Tortellini

Dinner Menu

From the dinner menu and absolutely stuffed with filling, the Crabcake (RM 42) is nothing but… crab! There is no filler here, just seasoned crab flesh. Corn salsa, fennel marmalade, caramelized onions and edible flowers cascade over the top and down into a thick prawn bisque. Coriander oil dots the side. Also, very good.

Small Shifting Space Chinatown KL
Crabcake

Another pretty dish, the Dry-aged Duck (RM 68), is plated with chargrilled pear slices. Rich says the fruit “is going to ‘pear’ nicely with the duck” in the cheesiest pun of the day. An exciting chimichurri made with local ulam raja leaves is an ideal companion to the smokiness from the grill. A super tasty balsamic reduction completes the mouth-filling experience.

Small Shifting Space Chinatown KL
Dry-aged Duck

A work in progress, and a special we try today, is the Squid. It’s been grilled with honey kosho, is covered with onion marmalade and fine radish slices. A drizzling of coriander oil and a sprinkling of toasted pine nuts finish it off. I think it’s pretty close to finished. Tell me what you think.

Cool restaurant Petaling Street Kuala Lumpur
Squid

Sweets Menu

Lastly, Sweets (RM 33) in the form of a croissant bread pudding conclude our meal. The house-made pastry is capped with a smooth, creamy scoop of wasabi sake gelato by Licky Chan. In a truly fabulous combination, fresh mulberries add freshness to a rich conclusion.

Cool restaurant Petaling Street Kuala Lumpur
Sweets

Reasons to visit Small Shifting Space (SSS): such a cool space! – do have a poke around both upstairs and downstairs and check out the glass-covered balcony that will soon be available for events; a well-chosen wine list; don’t miss the tortellini!


book now

SSS
Small Shifting Space
141 Jalan Petaling
Kuala Lumpur 50000
+60174405591
www.instagram.com/smallshiftingspace

Small Shifting Space Opening Hours
Closed Monday
Tuesday: 10 am – 5 pm
Wednesday to Sunday: 10 am – 12 am

Find more contemporary restaurants in KL here and stay up-to-date with the latest gourmet and travel recommendations for Malaysia here and here.

3 Comments

  1. Such an interesting place! Jalan Petaling sure has progressed from that shady lane where people buy pirated cds and fake branded goods. LOL!!! They did have some very nice eating places/coffee shops and stalls there a long time ago though. Haven’t set foot there like forever!

  2. Those pancakes look so fluffy and yummy.
    Ha ha… I tried to make some Japanese pancakes the other week.
    And I failed, I mixed the banter too hard and as a result my pancakes didn’t raise.
    The middle bit was a little bit uncooked too.
    Oddly I still managed to eat them all.
    What a pig!

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