The Crane KL, Restaurant & Bar, Jalan Sultan

The Crane KL

Words: Alison Christ
Photos: Monica Tindall

It’s a beautiful sunny afternoon, and Monica and I are meeting for lunch and drinks in the newest addition of the Chinatown food and beverage scene. The Crane KL on Jalan Sultan is located in a historical building, the Selangor Grocers Guild, built in 1927. The grocer’s guild was established by seven Chinese grocers to create an association representing the interests of grocers, retail traders, and sundry shop owners back in the 1920s. The association is still active, and they own the building. We enter through the pristine-white front doorway adorning a carving that reads “Selangor Grocers Guild’ (actually says Selancor Crocers Cuild) above the entrance. Apparently, the letter G’s are actually C’s because back then, someone had a hard time writing in English and was stumped by the letter G. Legend or truth; how can we be sure?  

The Crane KL

We enter the brightly lit downstairs dining room and bar. There is cheery house music pumping giving the place a great vibe. Even in the daytime, we feel like we want to start a party (only after we recharge with good food, of course). We are greeted by the owner-operator team; Malaysian-born Alex Martin, Olena Masalitina, and Victoria Vasileva. Olena and Victoria are from rivalling countries of Ukraine and Russia. Despite some depressing current political unrest in their motherlands, they are great friends here in KL. They lead us through the guild’s history and the building, which is quite interesting. The Crane KL is now nestled within layers of history and nostalgia of the early history of Kuala Lumpur with tails of opium dens and triads, brothels, and gambling parlours. 

New Restaurant & Bar Jalan Sultan, KL

The new design is warm and welcoming with brilliant light, perfect for all-day dining and day drinking. High ceilings with windows going all the way up, allowing for all of the natural light, decked with a beautiful lush mini jungle of hanging garden plants. The doors and windows open up to the bustling Jalan Sultan. We sit back and feel the peacefulness inside while watching the hustle outside move past us. Behind the bar is a fun setup reminiscent of a grocery shelf filled with pretty turquoise recycled tin boxes – all here for decoration save one row above the espresso machine, which contains actual goodies and cookies offered with each coffee. You will find the iconic crane bird floating around the room, representing long life and prosperity in keeping with the theme of old Chinese meets modern culture. The sign above the bar says in Chinese, “Unite We Stand Strong” – the sign must be working, as it’s almost 100 years old!

The Crane KL Menu

To Begin

After our history lesson, we start to dive into the all-day dining menu, which could fit any scenario you might have, lunch, mid-afternoon snacks, happy hour, or a full-on dinner. The menu can appeal to just about everyone, as it’s a mix of western and Asian – fusion. 

Monica and I start with a classic from the Small Bites Menu, The Tapas Platter (RM 45) – assorted cheeses, cured meats, pickled peppers, dried fruits, nuts, and anchovies on toast. (Blue Cheese, Petit Brie, Smoked Provola, Grana Padano, smoked turkey ham, pepperoni beef salami). The platter is anything but small, as the menu suggests coming from the “small bites” section. It’s great to share as a starter. I’d say even better at happy hour before dinner.

From the Salads, we try the Roast Carrot & Bean Salad with Feta (RM 24), which has a nice twist of cannellini, and French beans tossed with roasted carrots, crumbled feta cheese, rocket, and spinach. I know salads are good for you and you should eat them often, but usually, they disappoint me. However, this one is perfectly dressed, with heirloom carrots, cannellini beans, and feta giving this salad appeal. You’ll be happy to eat your veggies with this one! 

We are meeting on a Sunday, and I definitely had a big night before (plus a booster –I’m blaming the booster), so I am thrilled when a non-alcoholic drink arrives (yes you heard me correctly). The Crane Detoxifier (RM 25) with celery, ginger, turmeric, and green apple juice it’s delicious. I order another one. I could drink one of these every day. 

Keeping with the healthy theme, our soup arrives, Cream of Taro Root Soup (RM 20). Creamy white velvety soup that’s made from the yautia root vegetable (tropical American root veg that can be eaten like a yam or potato). The soup is beautifully presented with tiny flowers and a root veggie chip garnish, it is also quite tasty and naturally thick and creamy. 

Mains

We move onto mains starting with Grilled King Salmon (RM 55) with green pea-mashed potatoes, asparagus, and spicy cream sauce. The salmon is huge and cooked perfectly. I don’t know if you’ve bought salmon for home lately, but it’s very expensive, so I’ll say this dish is a great deal and delicious. We enjoy the mash with green peas, and the spicy sauce is yummy, not too spicy, so we can still taste the freshness of the fish. 

I don’t know why I am surprised when the Braised Moroccan Style Lamb Shank (RM 70) with roasted Cajun potatoes, sautéed garlic French bean, and gremolata crumbs arrives. My first thought is Fred Flintstone when he’s trying to get the large cut of meat in the car. Lamb lovers will not be disappointed, the meat literally falls off the bone and we happily lap up the sauce with our potatoes. I ask Alex if these dishes are meant for sharing, and Olena steps in to says, ‘no, they are for one hungry adult. They are the portion sizes I like to eat.’ Olena has a fantastic appetite (we consider asking her to join our team), and I am happy because she helps us finish the lamb. 

Dessert

Monica and I are almost unable to eat another bite, but we have a little room for Desserts + Coffee. Pandan Sago (RM 20) is a traditionally flavoured pandan sago with coconut cream, Gula-Melaka syrup, and watermelon. I’m a sucker for pandan and coconut cream, and when the two come together, I can never refuse. The flavours are true, and we not only enjoy eating this as well as watching the show from the kitchen. The dish arrives smoking (from dry ice) in a half coconut shell garnished with delicate flowers; definitely, an IG moment is called for. I have my usual Iced Americano (RM 11) while Monica tries the Latte with Almond Milk (RM 13). We both like the fact that there are alternative kinds of milk to choose from, and of course, the beans are ground fresh to order. 

Upstairs at The Crane – Hidden Cocktail Bar

Now that we are fully satiated and the memory of last night is fading gracefully into the shadows, we are ready to start drinking upstairs in the bar (which has endearingly become known as Upstairs). On our walk to check out the Booze Menu, we are led through a lovely long hallway with glass ceilings and lush greenery with several artsy interpretations of cranes. We walk past the “guild’ hotel on our way up a flight of very cool historic stairs and finally arrive at a “secret” door that opens up to a dimly lit room with sheer red curtains adorning some VIP tables. The music is great; definitely a let’s get it on vibe happening. We belly up to the bar to be entertained by a master flair specialist called Sham. 

Craft Cocktails Jalan Sultan

Sham’s the head barman and is definitely not shy of being in the spotlight. He’s got some serious skills; imagine a fire thrower on the beach in Bali without the fire. Sham’s arms reach far and wide in every direction, including behind his head, as bottles, glasses, napkins, and booze fly seamlessly into their desired position. Okay, okay, that’s a great show, but what’s in the glass?! We are handed a smoking Chinese pot of Wrestless Monkey (RM 42) with curry leaves infused vodka, honey lemon syrup, infused chilli, honey syrup, fresh ginger juice, fresh curry leaves, fresh lemon juice, dry ice. This drink is definitely one for Instagram – I usually prefer less flair in my glass, but this one is very tasty. I can feel the quality of all the handmade ingredients, and it goes down all too easy. 

The Dragon Turns (RM 55) comes next, gin infused with chrysanthemum flower, infused peppercorn syrup, fresh red dragon fruit juice, fresh lemon juice, pandan leaf. This is served in a sexy glass milk carton with a straw for easy access. I really love this one. I’m a big fan of red dragon fruit, and this feels healthy while also boozy, and I can it could turn into a (drinking) problem quickly. 

You may be wondering about the names of the Crane Craft Signature Cocktails; well, you’re in for a treat, a shock, or a bit of entertainment, depending on your personality. We ask about the names and are handed a QR code to scan. Upon scanning, a pop-up says, “we musty be 18 or older to view the content.” Check, we are absolutely 18 (or older). We are directed to a menu with the cocktails, which have been named after Chinese sex positions of the zodiac, inclusive of illustrated visuals and detailed instructions on how to perform them with your partner. My personal favourite is Plowing the Field, and I’m looking forward to giving it a go later on. 

Customise Your Gin & Tonic

Trying to get our minds off of which position is most appealing, Sham tells us they also Customise Your Gin & Tonic in three easy steps. First, select your gin from the dozens of options – we go for Old Curiosity Lavender & Echinacea Secret Garden Gin (70cl, RM 48). Next, select your garnish (choose up to 2) apple, coriander, cucumber, grapefruit, guava, lemon, lime, orange, orange peel, rosemary, thyme, or black pepper. Finally, select your finish from Fever-Tree premium tonics, Aromatic Elderflower, Indian, Mediterranean Sicilian Lemon (+8 for Fever-Tree), or Schweppes. We go for coriander with Indian Premium tonic. You really can’t go wrong here as Sham, and the other bar guys can easily guide you through which works best with what. 

Classic Cocktails Done Well

We have actually finished our coverage here for the day when Alex, Olena, and Victoria convince us to step out onto the terrace to try a classic cocktail (or three). It’s a lovely terrace with a great view of the bustling Jalan Sultan down below. There are a few high tables and a nice, big day bed. I immediately start thinking of the zodiac positions again. To stop my mind from wondering, Alex suggests I try a Piña Colada. How did you know?! I am an in the closet piña colada lover. We agree to stay for one more drink (yeah, right). Monica gets her favourite classic Negroni which she is loving, it’s served on a plate with torched cinnamon sticks. My piña colada is living up to Alex’s recommendation. Fresh pineapple juice, coconut cream, and Bacardi Carta Blanca (plus some other secret ingredients). It’s delicious, and we do manage to finish three cocktails each. We are having a great time talking to the passers-by on the sidewalk below. We manage to recruit some folks who join us for drinks. It’s a great day, and we are sad to have to go. But real life is calling for us. Monica and I head back to KLCC, eager to share with our partners our new learning.

Reasons to visit The Crane KL: Friendly staff and owners, generous portions, cool vibe and music, great cocktails, cocktail flair, zodiac position education. 

The Crane KL
78, Jalan Sultan,
50000 KL, Chinatown, Malaysia
www.instagram.com/thecrane_kl/

The Crane KL Opening Hours
Daily 12 pm- 12 am
The Crane Upstairs
4 pm – 12 am

Find more on the hot food and beverage scene in Chinatown here, and stay up-to-date with the latest gourmet and travel recommendations for Malaysia here and here.