Gin Rik Sha, Bukit Damansara Modern Indian

Gin Rik Sha

Words: Stephen Reid
Photos Rich Callahan

Located in the leafy, upscale neighbourhood of Bukit Damansara, Gin Rik Sha serves modern Indian food that is bang up-to-date, reflecting dishes and cuisine from the whole of India rather than a single region. Some of the dishes on the menu reminded me of the incredibly trendy and wildly successful restaurant chain Dishoom in the U.K. The restaurant has a clean contemporary design, blonde wood finishes and concealed lighting, which I found very inviting.

Gin Rik Sha Drinks Menu

It’s clear that the team at Gin Rik Sha take as much care with the preparation of the drinks as they do with the food. One of their mixologists, Rau, made me a Keralan South Side (RM 33), a gin-based cocktail served in a tall glass with lemon juice and kaffir lime leaves, which was most refreshing.

Monica chose an Amma’s Potion (RM38), another gin-based cocktail garnished with a delicate strip of cucumber and incorporating lime juice, coriander leaf and their home-made own cucumber syrup, which belied the slightly stronger spirit-forward kick within, although there was no complaint from Monica! 

Our third tipple was perhaps the most intriguing and complex, the Pani Poori Margarita (RM45), containing tequila, triple sec, lime juice, agave and tamarind. The glass was garnished with Himalayan pink salt and gunpowder mix and presented with a miniature pani poori clipped to the rim – a delicious combination of a cocktail and a light snack all in one. I’ll be choosing this myself on my next visit.  

One of Gin Rik Sha’s most popular cocktails is the Gin Ginger (RM36). It’s easy to see why with its combo of lemon juice, house-made ginger syrup and gin gifting a delightful zing on the taste buds. 

This was just a small sampling of the drinks menu – there are lots to return for! 

Gin Rik Sha Food Menu

Our first dish immediately caught my attention, Superfood Aloo Tikki Chaat (RM30). Having lived in India for many years, I was keen to try this reinvention of the popular street food snack. Perfectly round potato cakes encased in toasted nutty quinoa and tangy chana masala were balanced by a cooling mint coconut yoghurt. Adding texture and crunch was a liberal sprinkling of toasted coriander and pumpkin seeds and pops of flavour from vibrantly coloured pomegranate seeds. 

There was much to surprise and delight within the menu, such as the Baingan Bharta Cornetto (RM28), where scrumptious roasted aubergine mash was presented in beautiful little cones. Hidden inside, we found a hit of chilli jam which was balanced by a topping of creamy whipped feta cheese, representing the ice cream in a cornetto. 

We followed this with Chickpea Flour Dumplings in a Coconut Soup with Tomato and Mango Salsa (RM28). This was so creamy, comforting and moreish that it was a surprise to learn that it was entirely vegan, being prepared with chickpea flour and coconut milk. Crisp potato pakora dumplings introduced texture and an additional layer of flavour that came from a mango and tomato salsa.  

Another cleverly designed vegetarian dish followed by the Jackfruit Tacos (RM38). Here chapati tortillas contained moist spiced green jackfruit, which visually and in texture bore a strong resemblance to pulled pork or chicken. The tacos were topped with more jackfruit, separated into strands and fried to a satisfying crispy crunch, with a layer of freshly grated gruyere cheese. 

Moving into heartier plates, the Lentil Risotto with Crispy Kale (RM30) was a modern take on the traditional Indian comfort food khichdi made with moong lentils and rice. It was originally a humble dish renowned for its wholesome, healthy and detoxifying properties. It holds a similar place in the hearts of most Indians as chicken soup does for Americans. Here Italian Arborio rice has been used, although it retained a smoother khichdi-style texture than regular risotto. It was finished off with freshly grated parmesan cheese and topped with deep-fried kale furnishing a perfect crunch.

However, it was not all vegetarian and vegan dishes for us, as there were plenty of delicacies for lovers of meat and seafood. The Kerala Shrimp (RM50) has been a firm favourite on the menu since the restaurant’s opening, within the ‘Amma’s kitchen’ section of the menu. These are the recipes the owner grew up with and learned from her mother and mother-in-law, hence the name, ‘Amma’s kitchen’. The dishes in this section reflect traditional, comforting home-style food, proving so popular with customers that they have been retained over the years. The shrimp were plump and succulent, bathed in a luscious glistening sauce made with tamarind and roasted coconut. We eagerly mopped up the sauce with a Chilli Garlic and Cheese Kulcha (RM16), an Indian flatbread similar to naan. 

We moved from one of the oldest dishes on the menu to one of the newest additions, the Spicy Lamb Cutlet with Foie Gras (RM48). Here the round spiced lamb patties were presented with slices of foie gras perched on top, which added a smooth, creamy texture that softened out the piquant tang of the strawberry and green chilli chutney which accompanied the dish. 

Dessert

To finish, we settled on two desserts to share between us, the Carrot and Kheer Creme Brulee (RM22) and the Indian Summer (RM25). The Brulee came in a cute little earthenware pot with a perfectly crisp caramelised sugar crust, giving way with a satisfying crackle when I plunged in my spoon. This was Rich’s favourite, a vanilla rice pudding with grated carrot running through it and spiced with cardamom seeds. One for those with a sweet tooth. Monica and I had a preference for the Indian Summer, which is a version of the British dessert Eton Mess. Here black pepper within the meringue and the tropical tang of Indian mangoes balance the sweetness leaving us battling with spoons for the last morsels. 

Gin Rik Sha Review

Whether you are looking to have a few drinks with friends, perhaps sharing a few small plates tapas style, or looking for a more substantial meal, there is something for everyone here and all with such warm, friendly service. Vegetarian and vegan dishes burst with as much flavour and texture as succulent meat and seafood dishes. It’s accomplished and inventive modern Indian cookery at its best.

Reasons to visit Gin Rik Sha: I’ll be back for the Superfood Aloo Tilki Chat and Jackfruit Tacos washed down with a Pani Poori Margarita.

Gin Rik Sha
37 Ground Floor, Plaza Damansara
Jalan Medan Setia 1, Bukit Damansara
50490 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
+6010 243 8266
www.facebook.com/ginriksha/

Gin Rik Sha Opening Hours
Monday Closed
Tuesday to Friday 2.30 pm – 11 pm
Saturday and Sunday 12.00 pm – 11 pm

Find more Indian restaurants in KL here and stay up-to-date on the latest happenings in KL’s food and beverage scene here and here.