Modern Asian Restaurant Kuala Lumpur

Rooftop REXKL – Shhhbuuuleee Restaurant

Rooftop REXKL – Shhhbuuuleee Restaurant

Words: Jacob Weber
Photos: Rich Callahan

After a couple of hours at Shhhbuuuleee, I’ve perfected its pronunciation. I may have had the help of several of the 18 sakés and shochus on the excellent East Asian-inspired menu.

Sitting pretty on the top floor of REXKL, Shhhbuuuleee is a curious, cosy open-air space with beautiful views over the city. With the historic old streets buzzing beneath you and gleaming modern skyscrapers at eye level, it’s an interesting immersion into the heart of Chinatown KL.

Rooftop REXKL

Shhhbuuuleee’s name actually comes from a couple of cues; ‘shhh’ as in, “be quiet, the 6,000 sq ft BookXcess bookstore is next door”; ‘bù lǐ’ as in, the Chinese expression meaning ‘pay no attention to’. Mixed messages, maybe, but it still makes sense. The space itself is just as playful and unique; half-indoors, half-tropical terrace garden, with unconventional seating at varying levels to offer a different perspective on dining (and a stunning perspective of the city).

Owner and architect Shin Chang, who helped transform the old Rex cinema into the multi-faceted lifestyle and creative hub that REXKL is today, used local craftsmanship and construction materials in Shhhbuuuleee’s design. It’s subtle but speaks volumes, and the result is a unique, modern alfresco experience that makes for a very pleasant way to spend an evening in the city. And that’s before you’ve even tasted the exquisite food.

Modern Asian Restaurant Kuala Lumpur
Shhhbuuuleee
Rooftop REXKL Shhhbuuuleee
Shhhbuuuleee
Rooftop REXKL Shhhbuuuleee
REXKL Rooftop

East Asian Classics at Shhhbuuuleee

Chef Mui Kai Quan is rightfully excited to showcase his menu; classic-meets-contemporary East Asian tapas-style dishes inspired by his international experience in Michelin-starred restaurants as much as his childhood memories from his Hakka family dinner table, giving new life to old favourites. It’s creative as well as conscious; Chef Mui adopts a sustainable approach to his cooking in terms of carbon footprint and zero-waste cooking.

Of course, zero-waste means that there’s a use for every ingredient – enter the Pig’s Head Terrine (RM30), served with fermented mustard greens, Szechuan peppers and a chilli vinaigrette. Don’t let the name put you off – it’s rich and flavourful, with a delicate decadence about it. 

Modern Asian Restaurant Kuala Lumpur
Pig’s Head Terrine

Seafood lovers will adore the Argentinian Red Prawns (RM40) marinated in eight-year-old Shaoxing rice wine. The head is deep fried, and the body is lightly torched, creating a wonderful contrasting texture that brings out the delicious flavours. The Aged Shima Ali (RM70) – or Japanese mackerel – is another winning seafood entry. The fermented cucumber and kaffir lime give it a serious bite.

Modern Asian Restaurant Kuala Lumpur
Argentinian Red Prawns

Cold Somen (RM48) may well be one of the hottest items on the menu. Somen noodles are typically eaten cold, and Chef Mui has taken this advice to heart – these portions are served with granita made from the broth, and it really makes the briny broth sing. Silky noodles, raw scallops, clams, jinhua ham; despite the cold, it’s extremely comforting. 

Modern Asian Restaurant Kuala Lumpur
Cold Somen

The Grilled Peppers (RM26) are cooked to perfection, neither too crunchy nor soggy, with the sesame and peanut butter on the side really taking them up a notch.

Modern Asian Restaurant Kuala Lumpur
Grilled Peppers

The Stewed Pearl Beans (RM25) look set to become a firm favourite; savoury and tender braised pearl beans served with duck ham, salted egg, and octopus liver. Salty, earthy, and intense, familiar flavours punctuated with a few surprises. Representative of the whole menu at Shhhbuuuleee, really.

Rooftop REXKL Shhhbuuuleee
Stewed Pearl Beans – Rooftop REXKL

The pig’s head is back at the table in the form of Tempura Pig Ears (RM28), which come with mushroom seasoning and tartare sauce. As a northern Englishman, these feel like luxury pub snacks (in the best way possible) – crispy and rich and perfect for washing down with a craft beer.

Modern Asian Restaurant Kuala Lumpur
Tempura Pig Ears

Main Courses

It’s time to turn over to the ‘Bigger Plates’ side of the menu, and we start our main courses with the Black Angus Short Ribs (RM195). The first bite is so good I have to stop myself from making an involuntary whimper. Outrageously tender, fall-off-the-bone-melt-in-the-mouth stuff. The turmeric cream makes it even better, not to mention the three kinds of pickles (wasabi, nagaimo, gobo) on the plate as well.

Rooftop REXKL Shhhbuuuleee
Black Angus Short Ribs

The Smoked Beef Tongue (RM18/skewer) is equally well-cooked, smokey morsels served on skewers, with clean, crisp, crunchy slices of jicama to contrast the rich and tender tongue. I’d recommend at least two skewers. You’ll see what I mean. The peanut sauce is a very nice touch, too.

Rooftop REXKL Shhhbuuuleee
Smoked Beef Tongue

The Maitake Pot Rice (available on the festive menu*) is another comforting bowl of East Asian goodness, with kulim oil giving it a uniquely fragrant flavour.

Rooftop REXKL Shhhbuuuleee
Maitake Pot Rice – Rooftop REXKL

After all that salty, savoury fare, we finish with a dessert from the festive menu. Red Koji Sherbet is a medley of tastes and textures, sweet and crispy and fresh and tangy all at the same time. It’s the perfect refreshing pick-me-up after our meaty main courses.

Rooftop REXKL Shhhbuuuleee
Red Koji Sherbet

Sake Menu

Chef Mui’s food menu wouldn’t be complete without the right drinks; given the East Asian inspiration, it’s only right that saké and shōchū feature prominently. Of course, they are ably supported by delicious craft beers and refreshing cocktails.

We get stuck into the Awesome Karakuchi (RM35/glass; RM280/bottle), a dry sake with fruity aromas and zesty citrus notes. It goes down very well, indeed.

Rooftop REXKL Shhhbuuuleee
Awesome Karakuchi

The Natural Spring Water (RM260/bottle) goes down even better. It really is as smooth as the name suggests, with some complexity underneath. I think this was probably the tipping point for me to start pronouncing Shhhbuuuleee exactly as it’s spelt …

Modern Asian Restaurant Kuala Lumpur
Natural Spring Water – Rooftop REXKL

There’s something – well, a lot of things – about Shhhbuuuleee that all simply make sense. From the design to the dessert, everything feels like it complements everything else. A casual dining experience in a uniquely creative space; outstanding food that’s served with simplicity and sophistication at the same time; an intimate environment that takes all the pretentiousness out of the typical ‘rooftop bar’ setting; whether you’re here for a date night or after a long day exploring Chinatown, there’s something in the air and on the menu to satisfy you. 

Reasons to visit Shhhbuuuleee: Great ambience and atmosphere in a creative space in one of the coolest parts of KL; excellent East Asian menu with unique twists; extensive drinks menu that pairs well with the food, including special edition sakés; sweeping views of the city in an intimate-yet-open-air set-up.


book now

Shhhbuuuleee Restaurant Address
80, Jalan Sultan, City Centre,
50000 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur

*Festive Menu
Available 30-31 Dec & 1 January
Chef’s Seasonal Menu: 8 Plates @ RM225+/person (including welcome drinks)

Rooftop REXKL Opening Hours
Monday: Closed
Tuesday-Sunday: 5pm–12am

Shhhbuuuleee
Rooftop REXKL – NYE Menu
Shhhbuuuleee
Rooftop REXKL – NYE Menu
Shhhbuuuleee Menu
Shhhbuuuleee Menu
Shhhbuuuleee Menu

3 Comments

  1. Interesting name.

  2. I don’t like waste.
    Coffee is on and stay safe

  3. An interesting name…food looks good.

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