Meathical – Pavilion Embassy -Jalan Ampang

Meathical

Words: Han Sen Hau
Photos: Rich Callahan

Let’s face it. The hallmarks of being quintessentially Kuala Lumpurian is that we are inextricably tied to a wealth of fabulous food and, more unfortunately, mind-numbing traffic jams. So, the next time you ever find yourself stuck in the latter, especially at an astoundingly narrow street called Jalan Ampang just past The Intermark, simply swear off the nail-biting misery and turn into Pavilion Embassy to cool off at one of the newest steakhouses in town: Meathical. 

I’m obviously writing this from experience en route to the review, though the trauma of being stuck behind a line of equally frustrated drivers along a short stretch of road for nearly half an hour quickly melted away as we were greeted by friendly smiles and a spacious dining area in Meathical, complete with floor-to-ceiling windows so you can indulge in a little schadenfreude by watching at all the other drivers moving along in front of the restaurant at a glacial pace while you’re enjoying a lobster degustation menu with wine in hand.

Huff.

But that’s why we’re here! Meathical’s special Four Seasons Lobster Degustation menu has been the talk of the town lately, and we are humbled by the invitation to try it out, along with other delectable offerings from their standard menu. Helmed by three chefs—William Teh, Joshua Benjamin, and Lam Qansoon—Meathical is the counterexample of how “too many cooks spoil the broth”, and their comprehensive menu, which includes set lunches, weekend brunch specials, and tapas, is as impressive as their extensive wine selection lining their wall. You could just walk up to a rack then work your meal around a bottle of your choice, and if you ever find yourself overwhelmed by the sheer variety, then you can rely on sommelier Jeffery to recommend a good bottle.

Anyway, there was a lot to go through at Meathical, so in an effort to relay our experience there in a cohesive manner, we’ll be dissecting the Four Seasons Lobster Degustation menu first before we plunge into everything else. 

Four Seasons Lobster Degustation Menu

It felt like a missed opportunity here that the food was not served with Vivaldi’s similarly named violin concertos playing in the background because all I heard were the frantic violins in Allegro non molto as Winter arrived at the table. The first icy lobster sashimi indulged the tongue with a wonderful mouthfeel that combined the chewiness of octopus, the bite of a squid, and the fragrance of crabs. While the distilled shoyu introduced a gentle saltiness that uplifted the meat, it was the piquant and creamy wasabi emulsion that stole the show when paired with a bite of lobster, providing a sharp contrast to the otherwise chilly sashimi. 

As we explored the full suite of offerings that came with the Four Seasons Lobster Degustation Menu (RM459; additional RM80 for wine pairing), each of the items sampled was paired with a glass of wine. For Winter, we had the Angove “Chalk Hill Blue” Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, which occasionally fought with the lobster for supremacy over the palate. It had a distinctively savoury profile that warmed up the sides of the tongue with a herbaceous aroma that quickly cleansed the palate, though it also had the effect of grounding the lobster flavour with every sip.

When Spring came up, we were all impressed by the sheer size of the lobster claw resting in the middle of the thick bisque, with additional chunks of meat swimming peripherally too! This was definitely one of the “richer” offerings of lobster from the menu (besides Autumn, which you’ll see later) and an intoxicating experience if you adore the crustacean’s aroma wafting into the nose as you completely soak a piece of the accompanying baguette in bisque to complete a satisfying bite. 

The wine that came with this was the Angove “Naturalis” Organic Pinot Grigio, which was a lighter and brighter option compared to the stronger Sauvignon Blanc imbibed earlier. The beautifully clear white shone with its crisp profile, with hints of pear and a gentle floral bouquet to cut through the thick bisque while also sweetening its aftertaste somewhat.

Momentary relevant digression: In terms of naming the dishes, I thought the bisque would have been more appropriate as “Winter” because nothing beats the cold better than a delicious bowl of hot soup and bread, while the lobster sashimi would have rocked as “Spring” because of the colourful florals tossed atop the ice. However, in retrospect, the arrangement worked better in terms of the flavour, as the sashimi’s subtle characters would have been completely lost if the bisque preceded it.

Summer arrived in the form of bite-sized croquettes laced with Sarawak black pepper. Visually, these look like Sri Lankan fish cutlets until you slice them in half to reveal a cheesy mash coated in squid ink and the chunk of lobster inside. The cheese crisps paired with this buttressed the croquettes’ crunch, as much of that can be lost from the mash. 

Honestly, I could have five times the amount of just these while watching a movie because they’re great as a snack. Pair that with the Hereford Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec and movie night just got a little more bougie. The red smacked with an intensely fruity entry and a rather “cheesy” bouquet that worked a little too well for Summer: on the one hand, its aroma waltzed beautifully with the croquettes, but its intense fruitiness may also work against the experience, depending on personal preference. 

Finally, Autumn left nothing to the imagination with a completely nude and grilled lobster completely laid bare on a wooden board for all to admire. The slightly smoky and fleshy meat worked best with the frothy lemongrass espuma and a drizzle of lemon, both of which did wonders to elevate the mass of lobster flesh, tomalley, and roe. If we weren’t in a snazzy place like Meathical, we would have probably regressed to cavemen and massacred this with our bare hands, licking off the juices and fat coating our fingers.

The final pièce de résistance was paired with a purplish Luis Felipe Edwards Reserva Carmenere, a full-bodied red rich in tannins and a powerful floral nose. A fitting glass to end a fantastic feast, the Carmenere almost had the appeal of a fortified wine without the excessive sweetness, allowing the rich lobster flavours to pull through the wine’s equally bold profile. 

Brunch Menu

Okay, now that we have the lobster out of the way, let’s dive into Meathical’s brunch menu, which is only available on weekends and public holidays from 11:00am to 2:00pm. A quick glance over their offerings here reveals a decent selection of familiar favourites (with an added twist for some, like the Eggs & Caviar below) that guests can enjoy with a glass or bottle of wine of your choice. 

To start, we had the prodigious Meathical Breakfast (RM40) that lived up to its name, featuring streaky beef bacon, tater tots, forest mushrooms, smoked chicken garlic sausage, scrambled eggs, grilled vine tomatoes, toasted brioche, and a side of lettuce leaves tossed in a vinaigrette. As with all “big breakfasts”, true joy comes from slowly shoving and mixing different components of the plate in the mouth and finding out which combinations work best for each bite. For the Meathical Breakfast, I thoroughly enjoyed the light crunch of tater tots against the creamy scrambled egg and the smoky grilled vine tomatoes with a cut of the streaky bacon. Don’t overlook the unassuming brioche on the plate either, as its light buttery fragrance blended well with everything else. 

The subsequent Eggs & Caviar (RM35) pushed a simpler mix of onsen eggs, Avruga caviar, sautéed prawns and mushrooms to the forefront, in opposition to the preceding Meathical Breakfast. Simply piercing the yolk and stirring the caviar into the goopy mix while making sure a chunk of prawn and mushroom was on the spoon before it enters the recesses of your mouth is enough to make your eyes roll back in pleasure over the luxurious silky, yet chunky mouthfeel. The savouriness of the caviar is balanced well with the fresh prawns and earthy mushrooms, all held together by the golden yolk. Toss a strip of toasted brioche into the mix, and I could happily have this as breakfast every day for life.

A blushing bottle of Le Grand Noir Vin Mousseux Rosé Brut (RM260 per bottle) was served alongside the brunch options. This Languedoc-Roussillon native electrified the palate with its effervescent personality and fruity entry that, dare we say, could replace coffee in easy mornings to be paired with breakfast (like the ones we had). Of particular note, the rosé soared when enjoyed with Eggs & Caviar. 

Salads

The first item we sampled here might surprise you. On paper, the Caesar Salad (RM42) may not be your first choice when dining at Meathical. In fact, it would not be an understatement to say it might be the first item you axe from your mind when picking out an entree off the menu. However, when you learn that the team prepares this for you right by your table, beginning with the Caesar dressing and ending with the grated Parmigiano, you will discover a hunger for this ubiquitous salad that you have never known in any other place. A familiar sight instantly becomes a craving that has to be satisfied, and you will be glad to know that the flavour does not disappoint. From the crisp lettuce leaves to the tangy dressing, the Caesar Salad was the dark horse of the day that won our hearts with its appetising relish.

The Portobello & Walnut Salad (RM32) was equally delightful, albeit for different reasons stemming from the vastly divergent mouthfeel of its individual components. The bite begins with the juicy portobello mushroom introducing a sweetness that contrasts the mesclun drizzled in a tangy vinaigrette. This juiciness is absorbed by the toasted walnuts and shaved Parmigiano Reggiano, whose gravelly texture constantly bounces off the fungi and salad. A simple yet elegant combination.

Both salads were paired with the Angove “Chalk Hill Blue” Bubbles (RM180 per bottle), a comfortably sweet and effervescent bubbly that’s easy on the nose and tongue. 

Mains

Can you imagine the look on our faces when we realised we would be tackling two fleshed-out menus in the same evening? Well, that mixture of anxiety and awe multiplied tenfold when the remaining mains were served on the table. At this point, we have had brunch, salads, the lobster degustation menu, plus six different glasses of wine. We haven’t even touched the subject of desserts yet.

Burp.

Thank goodness we arrived famished. 

Anyway, our first main was the Cauliflower Steak (RM38), a unique and substantial vegetarian option. As its name implies, we were served with a large cut of organic cauliflower that’s been slightly charred along the edges for a smoky decadence that went well with the walnuts making a comeback. Ultimately, it was the cauliflower truffle purée that provided a satisfying and lustrous finish to the meal.

The next number is an earthy Truffle Risotto (RM68) with a delicious secret hidden under the grains of rice and truffle oil infusion: velvety porcinis just bursting with umami. The lone Hokkaido scallop resting atop the risotto like a tiny crown was delectable and fresh, but interest in the dish was truly sustained by the slivers of porcini breaking through the monotony.

At long last, we’ve arrived at steaks, specifically the 280g Black Angus Ribeye (RM168) served with my favourite roasted vine tomatoes, which was also present in the earlier Meathical Breakfast, though presented a little differently here. I am obsessed with how juicy and sweet these were and how the roasted peel tasted like chips. 

The ribeye was served medium rare, and the meat just slid off the knife easily. It shone beautifully on its own, though the Meathical team prepared ours with a raclette that made the meal twice as hedonistic. As our visit this time revolved primarily around the special lobster degustation menu, we couldn’t have possibly explored the full spectrum of steaks offered at Meathical, though a preliminary scan of their menu reveals standard staples at reasonable prices, even their Japanese A5 and Australian Wagyu.

Our final wine for the evening was a 2015 Sons of Eden “Selene” Tempranillo (unlisted in the menu), a full-bodied red that coated the tongue with cherry and plum notes. The strength of this bottle was a perfect match for the steak and especially with the raclette, which extracted the sweetness from the Tempranillo.

Dessert

Considering the monumental, gastronomical romp we experienced, we were thankful that dessert was a merciful Valrhona Chocolate Mousse with Almond Crumble & Mixed Berries (RM35). If it took us approximately an hour and a half to just get through dinner, I would happily take an additional hour to enjoy the chocolate mousse at a languid pace, preferably with black coffee. Each bite of the mousse was an ode to a thoroughly enjoyable dinner and a reminder that we should probably walk instead of driving home. 

Final Thoughts

Despite what we’ve had at Meathical, we only barely scraped the surface of their offerings, having been unable to explore their set lunches (only available on weekdays from 12:00pm – 2:30pm) and happy hour tapas menu. Truly, to appreciate and assess Meathical’s complete suite of entrees and mains would require multiple visits, though we hope we’ve been able to at least provide a snapshot of the restaurant’s mythical proportions.

Big thanks to chefs Joshua Benjamin and William Teh for scrambling behind the scenes during our visit, and a shoutout to Jeffery, Ellyas, and Johan, who made sure that our glasses were always full and plates were always clean. 

Reasons to visit Meathical: lobster degustation menu; a comprehensive ala carte menu featuring European staples at affordable prices, especially in the heart of KL; extensive, approachable wine list; personalisation options for private dinners and parties available; a great place to wind down after a long day at work, especially at its al fresco area where it’s never too hot in the evenings and you get to see a trail of cars life slowly pass you by.

Meathical
Lot No A-C1, Kompleks Pavilion Ampang,
Pavilion Embassy
200, Jalan Ampang,
50450 Kuala Lumpur
+6016-853 8262

Meathical Opening Hours
12:00pm – 10:00pm (Daily)

Find more steak restaurants in Kuala Lumpur here and stay up to date with the happenings around Malaysia here and here.