Toupeirinho Restaurant – Matosinhos, Porto
Monica Tindall
Ask any local where to go for seafood in Porto; the first answer is always Matosinhos! The coastal town lies just a short distance from Porto. It boasts some of the finest beaches and phenomenal restaurants selling the sea’s daily catch. However, how to choose from a plethora of options? We rely on our wine-loving friends once again for the insider pick. Gil Frias, commercial director of Grupo JMV, gets us a table at Toupeirinho Restaurant. He describes it as “the best fish restaurant I’ve ever met.”
Toupeirinho Restaurant, established in 2003, is an inviting and cosy eatery named as a tribute to its managing partner’s family. Translating to “little mole,” it symbolises family and tradition in Portuguese culture. Just metres from the coast, surrounded by cobblestone streets and bordered by beautiful purple-flowered trees, arrival to the restaurant adds to its appeal. The interior exudes a rustic charm adorned with wine relics, with containers of seafood on counters and even some staff deshelling at a table to the side. Due to its popularity amongst locals and limited seating, reservations are recommended.
Toupeirinho Restaurant Menu & Wine List
Gil informs us that the owner is so well-reputed that several people are fishing for Toupeirinho alone, ensuring an exclusive catch. House specialties, including Lobster Salad, Peeled Crab, Peeled Razor Clams, Cooked Barnacles and Ameijoas à Bolhão Pato, get repeat orders from regulars. The wine list offers an extensive selection of over 400 national and international references – it’s a pleasure to browse.
As mentioned, we’re out with friends in the wine industry, so leave the wine choice in their capable hands. Borges Reserva Dão White, a clear, light yellow in the glass, is their top pick for seafood. Its intense and elegant aroma offers a well-balanced blend of lime, orange peel, and subtle toasty notes from oak aging. A refreshing mineral taste on the palate harmonises with a lemony character, creating a full-bodied and well-balanced profile. The wine’s fine acidity adds a touch of freshness. Ideally suited to accompany fish, cold meat, and roast poultry with light seasoning, this Dão wine is a flawless match for our dinner at Toupeirinho Restaurant. Crafted from Encruzado and Malvasia Fina grapes, it hails from the beautiful region of Dão, Portugal, boasting an alcohol content of 13.5% and is best served between 8-10°C. It’s versatile, and we love it so much that we reorder more bottles throughout the meal.
Seafood Restaurant Matosinhos
As we await the seafood menu, Pata Negra Ham (EUR 12.50) from Alentejo whets our appetites. While many parts of the world recognise Pata Negra ham from Spain, it also thrives in Alentejo, Portugal, a vital region for its production. Alentejo’s ideal climate and terrain support free-roaming Iberian pigs amidst world-renowned Dehesa (oak forests). The Dehesa provides acorns, critical to the pigs’ diet, imparting the ham’s distinctive flavour and aroma. Stress-free living and a nourishing diet contribute to the exceptional quality of Pata Negra ham from Alentejo, cherished for its rich, nutty taste and delicate texture.
As great as the ham is, we’re here for the seafood, and Stuffed Shoemaker Crabs (EUR 42.50/ kg) are a delight. I can’t say I’m a fan of my Asian home’s practice of serving seafood with the shell still on. I appreciate the labour that has gone into this dish at Toupeirinho Restaurant, deshelling it and stuffing the flesh back inside the exoskeleton. I get authentic plating and the appeal of the sea while luxuriating in savouring the sweet, soft flesh that I didn’t have to work for.
Lobster Salad (EUR 99.50.kg) is delivered, also deshelled, on a huge platter. After we’ve had a look, our server individually plates it for us (also noting and loving not having to lift a finger for this meal). The flesh is meaty and superbly fresh. While a mix of leaves joins its side, this beautiful crustacean needs no seasoning.
The next dish we’ve enjoyed several times and fondly remember – Bulhão Pato Clams (EUR 27.50), named after the Portuguese poet Raimundo António de Bulhão Pato. They’re cooked in garlic, olive oil and coriander. We’re torn between using our bread to soak up the clam sauce or using it as a sponge for the Douro olive oil from Quinta de Ventozelo. Both merit repeat dips.
The meal peaks with Salt-crusted Sea Bass (EUR 52.50/ kg) wheeled on a trolley to our table, still on fire, flame flickering and left to finish beside us. Once again, there’s no effort required on our part as our server unveils the fish from its salted coat and allocates a portion to each of our plates. As she does so, she names the part of the fish delivered – cheek, body or head. The flesh is soft and clean with a touch of salt.
To partner with our fish, a vibrant salad of tomato, mixed leaves, dried figs, marinated red capsicum, and dates is attractive to the eye and also a lovely balance to our protein. Our stomachs are content, but our host insists on repeatedly scooping a warm mix of rice and turnip leaves on our plates. He guarantees that no one goes hungry.
Dessert
We don’t need much for dessert as we’re already perfectly satisfied. However, a plate of Queijadinhas – small Portuguese cheese tarts – arrive, and they’re just the right size to enjoy in a few bites with a Torrié espresso.
Reasons to visit Toupeirinho Restaurant, Matosinhos, Porto: incredibly fresh seafood; honest prices; cosy setting; must order the Borges Reserva Dão White to pair with your meal.
Toupeirinho Restaurant
Rua do Godinho 27
4450-198 Matosinhos, Porto, Portugal
https://toupeirinho.pt/
+351 22 938 70 16 or +351 964 531 540
[email protected]
Toupeirinho Restaurant Opening Hours
Monday to Saturday: 12:30 – 3:30 pm & 7 pm – 12 am
Sundays: Closed
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The stuffed crabs look good!