Mia Bangkok, Modern European Restaurant

Mia Bangkok, Modern European Restaurant

Monica Tindall

Mia is a modern European restaurant with a twist in a charming two-story house in the heart of Bangkok. Founded by chef-duo Pongcharn “Top” Russell and Michelle Goh, Mia offers a seasonal tasting menu inspired by the chefs’ formal training in award-winning restaurants across Europe and Asia.

Mia Bangkok came highly recommended by a fellow foodie friend living in the city, and I couldn’t resist the Malaysian connection – the pastry chef, Michelle, is from Kuching. She married a Thai chef, and now they make delicious food together. 

Coincidentally, I’ve been following Michelle’s career without realising it. She began working with chef Anna Polyviou at the Shangri-La Sydney, then had stints at 3-hatted Rockpool also in Sydney and then Pollen in Singapore. This is my first time meeting her in Bangkok, where she led the pastry section at two Michelin-starred Suhring before moving over to Mia.

Michelle’s partner, Top, a rising star in the culinary world, was born in Thailand and grew up on Phuket Island. At 15, he moved to England to pursue his passion for cooking. He trained under renowned chefs at some of London’s most acclaimed restaurants, including Gauthier Soho, The Pearl, and Sketch. After gaining further experience in Singapore at Pollen (and meeting Michelle), Top returned to his home country to become Executive Chef at Freebird. His talent has been recognised by Forbes, Topchef Thailand, and Fine Dining Lovers, who named him one of 12 Chefs to Watch.

Mia Bangkok

Mia Bangkok exudes an alluring romantic ambience in an old colonial bungalow on a serene residential street. The restaurant maximises its architectural charm, creating distinct dining areas, including the beloved Flower Room with salmon-pink seating against mosaic wallpaper, offering garden views. The Dark Room, with large round mirrors and arched ceilings, is perfect for intimate dinners, while circular booths in the adjacent room cater to family gatherings. Additionally, a private dining room is available for groups, and the intriguing Behind the Curtain Bar beckons exploration. A hidden bathroom adds a whimsical touch – disguised as a closet door, it opens to reveal a ‘gram-friendly washroom adorned with curios, making it a picturesque surprise for diners to discover during their visit.

A Taste of Mia Bangkok Menu

Once you’ve decided on your dining location (we love the Flower Room during the day), it’s time to get down to the menu. Chef Top emphasises dedication to the sheer joy of dining, aiming to create an experience that’s not overly cerebral but thoroughly satisfying. While they employ modern culinary techniques, they focus on delivering an “enjoyful” and gratifying meal. The menu, thoughtfully curated, mirrors Chef Michelle and Top’s personal tastes, enhancing the overall guest experience. 

Straight off the bat, we’re grateful for the sparkling water Vanessa brings to our table. The team filters and gases their own with a Nordic filtration system, cutting down on 1000s of wasted bottles weekly. We’re also impressed with full-course vegetarian and vegan menus alongside the signature, A Taste of Mia. We’ve booked the 8-course Taste of Mia with wine pairing (BHT 7950++), but I’d happily return to try some of their meat-free options, too.

We soon come to understand that dining at Mia Bangkok is not only about exciting our tastebuds with delicious food but rather partaking in an entire experience. Our server, Shane, presents a platter of raw ingredients, explaining each one, its origin and where we’ll find it on the menu. The presentation is testimony to the care taken in sourcing the best ingredients, many of them local. 

Snacks 

Sommelier Nan presents Champagne Autréau, revealing that the first course is an oyster, so it’s an opportune time to serve some good bubbly. The Champagne Autreau Blanc de Blancs, Brut, Grand Cru, gets its high acidity from Chardonnay grapes. Its full body, creamy palate and flowery finish are lovely with the oyster and the cheese and butter in several of the snacks. 

Cocollos Oyster | Smoked Buttermilk | Mango 

Our first bite is the Cocollos Oyster. The pretty shell holds the meaty oyster on a wasabi and mango salsa and is topped with smoked buttermilk, tobiko and chilli oil. The smokiness of the buttermilk, gentle sweetness from the mango, whisper of chilli heat and tiny pops from the fish roe are a magnificent combo, elevated by the Champagne’s character. First impressions count, and this is a win.

Cold, wet scented towels are presented preceding the finger snacks – showing attention to detail evident in every step of the program.

Deep-Fred Mochi | Gruyere |Truffle

In the next snack, deep-fried mochi is stuffed with Gruyere, gorgonzola cream and summer truffle- savoury mochi – ingenious! Don’t delay too much in snapping photos, as it’s best to pop the whole thing in your mouth while it’s still hot. It’s another “wow!” 

Next, a trio of cold snacks are served together. 

Smoked Salmon | Yuzu Sabayon
Cuttlefish Taco | Squid Ink Aioli | Lime
Braised Pork Belly | Chickpea Puff | Branston Pickles

Smoked salmon is folded with capers, shallots and pickled cucumber in paper-thin crispy tarts. Each is covered with a yuzu sabayon, a sprinkling of espelette pepper and ikura. 

Inspired by Chef Top’s UK grandmother, he calls the next snack, cuttlefish taco, “rebirthed calamari.” Look closely to see the double taco layers and herb print. It’s another fave featuring Krabi cuttlefish dressed with squid ink aioli, a base of ponzu jelly, and a topping of panko, bergament gel, chilli and chervil. The last of the trio is a small chickpea puff filled with braised pork belly, hummus and black garlic mayonnaise. On top, there’s a thin slice of apple jelly and prune and Branston pickles puree.

Sourdough Brioche | Shallot Butter | Onion Ash 

Mia Bangkok’s signature bread, Sourdough Brioche, comes with a love story. It’s been a staple since the restaurant’s inception but began when the two chefs (now a married couple) first met in Singapore. You’ll have to visit yourself to read the full romance, but it’s a sweet story, and we can tell there’s love in this preparation. Shallot butter with an onion ash crown is incredibly light and a flawless match to the crunchy exterior and soft, buttery middle of the bread.

Cold Starters 

Hokkaido Scallop | Gambero Rosso | Truffle Ponzu | Caviar 

Chef Top explains the cold starter, Hokkaido Scallop, as a marriage of the land and the sea. The raw scallop sits beneath a generous mound of caviar and is embraced with a flower of shaved pickled celeriac petals. Chef Top dribbles over olive oil and sun-dried Hokkaido scallop oil, bridging earth and water. 

Japanese ingredients deserve Japanese sake, declares Nan as she presents glasses of Sake Dress. This sake is from northern Japan and is brewed at 0 degrees Celsius on water taken from 20 metres underground. This is an easy-drinking drop, rich and creamy, balancing the texture and flavours of the sea. 

Andaman Sea Crab | Ajo Blanco | Grapes 

The second cold starter, Mia Bangkok’s signature, has been dealt the prettiest plating. Andaman sea crab is delicate and sweet amongst ajo blanco (white Spanish soup reinvented with tapioca and nuts), and sliced grapes, bergamont gel, tarragon, and finely formed tuile add an elegant lace-like crown.

The story is that the wine partner, Peter Lauer Riesling, comes from a grandpa who loved the drink so much that he decided to grow his own grapes. Production served his home and neighbours for a long time, but now it’s available worldwide. It’s a classic off-dry expression of the grape from Moselle, Germany, with a nose of stone fruit, pear, apple, white flowers, honey and the tell-tale light petrol finish.

Hot Starters

Foie Gras Chawanmushi | Port Reduction | Black Truffle 

We avoid foie gras for ethical reasons, and the Mia Bangkok team kindly replaces the first hot starter with Seafood Two Ways. Initially, we think it’s a single bite of prawn and avocado dipped with sauterne and Moscato jelly. However, lifting the small plate, we discover a bowl of lobster chawanmushi beneath. It’s a warm, comforting recipe of egg custard lushed up with lobster beurre blanc, lobster pieces and chives.

Domaine Bernard Defaix Chablis 2022 pairs well with the rich and creamy profile of the chawanmushi. Its full body stands alongside the intensity, and its high acidity slices through the richness of the custard. 

Aged Stone Bass | Textures of Corn | Vadouvan 

Another interactive prelude arrives before the fish: a box of Vadouvan spices. The wooden box opens to reveal sixteen different ingredients in the spice mix. They’re blended with beurre blanc, creating the sauce for the Aged Stone Bass. 

Stone bass comes from the pristine waters of Corsica. The fish is a little bigger and meatier than sea bass and aged for seven days before cooking. It features the most amazing rice paper-thin crispy skin – a dish (skin) worth travelling for. 

Austria brings us the next pairing with the iconic Weingut Hirsch Grüner Veltliner Kamptal Hirschvergnügen. Its green aromas of asparagus, herbs, and cut grass pair well with the herbal notes in the spice mix. It’s worth noting the acidity of the wine on its own and then with a forkful of fish to observe how the dry-aged stone bass notes sweeten on the palate. 

Main Course 

Roasted Quail | Boudin Noir | Courgette Pesto traditional pesto

Roasted Quail marries Chinese and French cuisine cooking techniques, combining dry-aged quail, boudin noir, and babaganoush. The quail is first aged for six days to concentrate its flavour, then roasted until golden. It’s stuffed with boudin noir, a rich and earthy sausage bringing depth to the delicate quail meat. It’s served with babaganoush and a green sauce neatly contained in the boundaries already laid out on the plate. Hubby quietly mumbles affirmations as he wipes the plate clean, “Mmmm, amazing.” 

A blend of 60% Nero d’Avola and 40% Frapatto, a rare indigenous Sicilian grape, the COS Vittoria Rosso 2019 is a light- to medium-bodied red wine with soft tannins and well-balanced acidity. It is rich in red berries and spices, with the spices echoing the flavours of black pudding. The wine is surprisingly complex on the palate, with hints of minerality that add a savoury edge to the fruit.

48Hours Braised Beef Short Rib | Salsify | Bordelaise Sauce (Add THB 590++) 

While quail is the main course on the Taste of Mia menu, beef lovers can upgrade to the 48-Hours Braised Beef Short Rib with Salsify and Bordelaise Sauce for an additional BHT 590++. Chef Top uses only grass-fed beef, known for its superior flavour, balance of fat, and more ethical treatment of animals. The short rib is braised for 48 hours until it is fall-off-the-bone tender. It is served with a side of salsify, a root vegetable with a delicate flavour. The bordelaise sauce is made with red wine, bone marrow, and shallots, adding a rich decadence to the dish.

Château Grand Destieu St. Émilion 2015 offers a robust body that pairs seamlessly with the succulent richness of the beef ribs. This wine’s pronounced tannins and elevated acidity skillfully complement and balance the delectable fattiness of the dish. With a dominant presence of Cabernet Sauvignon, complemented by Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc, this blend is a personal favourite of our somm, Nan, who lovingly cradles the bottle before pouring.

Main Course Part Two

In a surprising twist, part two of the main course is a palate-cleansing broth. Though not overtly Thai in flavour, it embodies an authentic Thai tradition. The chef explains that concluding a family meal with soup is customary to cleanse the palate. Crafted with meticulous care, this broth, available in beef and quail variations, strikes a balance between intensity and lightness. An innovative ice filtration process clarifies it, eliminating collagen while maintaining its pristine clarity and a complex, sugar and salt-free profile. Served in brandy glasses, this broth’s presentation captures its vivid colours and enticing aromas.

Desserts

Pandan Cream | Lychee | Coconut meringue

The pre-dessert is founded on a smooth pandan cream base with a delicate floral aroma. The coconut is presented fresh, as meringue and “snow” scooped over upon serving. The fresh coconut is crisp and refreshing, the meringue is light and airy, and the snow is cold and ethereal. Popped crispy rice adds crunch. The ginger gel provides a sharp and zesty contrast to the sweetness of the lychee, while the fresh lychee, lychee gel, and lychee sorbet add a burst of fruity flavour and juiciness.

Grilled Peaches | Quark Cheese | Timut Pepper | Vanilla 

Inspired by the classic peach melba, this dessert features grilled peaches and homemade vanilla ice cream made with vanilla beans from Borneo. The vanilla beans are grown on a boutique farm near Kuching, and Chef Michelle has hand-carried them herself. This is only the second harvest, and she has half of it, which makes each spoonful even more precious.

 Mia’s Cereal Bowl | Malted Milk Chocolate | Corn 

Guests can choose from two desserts on the Taste of Mia menu, but Mia’s Cereal Bowl is the clear standout. This signature dessert of Mia Bangkok is inspired by the Southeast Asian breakfast of Milo, a chocolate malt powder drink. Michelle pours over a creamy, milky concoction infused with cornflakes, giving it a real cereal taste. But don’t be fooled—this is far more decadent than your morning breakfast bowl. The sweetness of the cornflakes perfectly balances the rich, malty flavour of Milo, and the creamy texture is simply irresistible.

The final beverage pairing returns to Japan with a fruit beer, Cherry & Berry Ale, by Hokkaido Brewing Company. This light, refreshing beer is perfect for a summer dessert. The tart cherry notes balance the sweetness of the blueberries, creating a harmonious profile.

Petite Four

The Taste of Mia experience culminates with a trio of petit fours, each meticulously crafted to showcase Chef Michelle’s culinary artistry. These bite-sized delights are a feast for the palate and the eyes. Each plated individually, there’s a Black Forest tart, a delicate hazelnut choux pastry, and a decadent peanut butter praline enrobed in a chocolate shell bonbon, revealing a luscious raspberry ganache within. These three small but exquisitely presented creations are the perfect finale for an exciting dining experience at Mia Bangkok.

Mia Bangkok Review

Mia Bangkok delivers a menu that seamlessly marries flavours and traditions. The husband-and-wife team craft a diverse menu with meticulously sourced ingredients, embracing a complete experience of dining joy. Mia Bangkok is a standout in the gourmet dining scene, where passion meets artistry, tradition meets innovation, and every moment is an unforgettable culinary experience.

Reasons to visit Mia Bangkok: exceptional dining experience ticking all the boxes with incredible food, service, setting and beverage pairings. I highly recommend going hungry and booking the Taste of Mia menu. During the day, the flower room is spectacularly beautiful, and at night, the dark room is the spot to be. We didn’t have time this visit, but we have our eyes on the hidden bar, Behind the Curtain, to stop in for a cocktail pre or post-dinner.

Mia Bangkok
30 Attha Kawi 1, Sukhumvit Soi 26
Bangkok, Thailand
+66 098 862 9659
[email protected]

Mia Bangkok Opening Hours
Mia
Tuesday to Sunday
Dinner 5pm to 9pm
Saturday / Sunday
Lunch 12pm to 2:00pm
Behind The Curtain
Tuesday to Sunday
Dinner 5pm to 12pm
Omakase Dessert Bar
Thursday to Saturday

A Taste of Mia Prices
8-course: 4850 ++ | 5-course: 3850 ++)
8-course with wine pairing: 7950++ 5 course with wine pairing: 6750++
Vegetarian: 3850 ++
Vegetarian with wine pairing: 6750++
Vegan: 3850 ++
Vegan with wine pairing: 6750++

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