Fritz - French Brasserie KL, Troika Sky Dining

Fritz – French Brasserie KL, Troika Sky Dining

Words: Jacob Weber
Photos: Peter Tan

Visiting Troika Sky Dining is always a pleasure – and even more so when there’s a brand-new renovation of the much-loved Fritz to check out.

Given a thorough facelift after 10 years, the clean and continental look, complete with beautiful hardwood floors, sparkles in the afternoon sun gleaming in through the double-storey glass windows on the 24th floor of The Troika, a KL dining institution that needs little introduction by now.

Fritz - Troika Sky Dining — The Famous Entrance

French Restaurant Kuala Lumpur — Private Room – Fritz – Troika Sky Dining

We’re excited to see a new cocktail menu and pleased to note that the dining menu has been upgraded rather than replaced. It’s my first time here, but I’m told this is very good because some of the old favourites are unmissable.

Fritz is all about quality food with a French flair; continental classics with quality ingredients. There are some traditional French favourites throughout the menu, from the Bouillabaisse (RM78) to the Crème Brûlée Flambé (RM35), and plenty of dishes like the Poulet Grand Mère which will allow you to demonstrate your French accent to a poor, unsuspecting waiter.

But before we get to that point, we get to the bar, of course. (French accents definitely improve after cocktails, mais non?)

Twists on Classic Cocktails

The bar is a beautiful, shiny piece of solid pewter, glinting in the corner. There’s a glint in the eye of head bartender Fifi, too; he designed the cocktail menu and is excited to show us what he’s come up with. Love the energy.

The Espresso Martini (RM60) catches my eye. It’s made with vanilla-infused vodka, coffee liqueur, and homemade salted pineapple vanilla syrup – not your usual list of ingredients, so I have to try it. It’s very interesting – the sourest, in a good way, espresso martini I’ve ever had – and worth trying for fans of the original. Keeping with the martini theme, Mon’s first tipple is the Vesper Martini (RM 65), a simple mix of gin and Lillet blanc, a slightly sweeter version than the classic, yet still 100% booze.

The French 75 (RM80) packs a much harder punch. Gin, Calvados brandy, lemon, umeshu and champagne combine for a sharp and refreshing cocktail that really excites the palate.

Bijou (RM80) is a tantalising glowing green, thanks to the Verveine du Velay herbal liqueur, which replaces the traditional Chartreuse. Gin, blanco vermouth, and Pernod Ricard complete the aromatic concoction, which tastes reassuringly strong with bite and zest.

Fifi also sneaks me a shot of homemade limoncello, the legend. I like this a lot; sharp, sour and delicious. It’s part of the Campari Bitter Sweet (RM70) alongside sweet vermouth, Campari and soda, so I’d recommend giving that a shot. (Pun entirely intended.)

Fritz Menu

We start with the Bouillabaisse (RM78), which is brilliant. It’s rich and well-balanced, with crayfish, red mullet, grouper and catfish creating a comforting dish. The rouille toast is great for dipping, too.

The Deep-fried Brie and Pear Salad (RM58) is equally well-balanced, though on the other side of the flavour spectrum. There’s a joyful contrast between the healthy, fresh and crispy Mesclun salad – featuring white mushroom, red wine pear, and truffle vinaigrette – and the buttery, creamy Brie, melting and oozing onto the plate.

Time for an old favourite of Monica’s – and I immediately understand why she was glad to see this dish still here. Anchovies on Toast (RM16/toast) is the most eye-wateringly good starter I think I’ve ever had in my life.

Cream cheese and maple butter are spread on perfectly crispy grilled sourdough, topped with pickled red onion, smoked anchovies and sundried tomatoes, then drizzled with a little more maple syrup. It’s like a sensory tsunami for the taste buds. Crunchy and rich and luxurious and salty and tangy and sweet … it’s all there. It’s glorious. We order more and have to talk ourselves out of a third. You have to order this and tell all your friends about it.

The Hokkaido Scallop (RM94), perfectly seared, comes on a beautiful bed of stewed cannellini beans and fried Calabrian ‘nduja, a Spanish sausage that is hung and dried in-house and really adds to the sauce. The rich and meaty sausage morsels complement the fresh and light scallops rather well.

Not a Pig’s Trotter (RM65) is a delicious, “collagen-rich” terrine of beef brisket, tripe and tendon, breaded and deep-fried. Again, there’s contrast and balance, a lovely crust and a moist middle, with just the right seasoning. It’s served with watercress puree, horseradish cream, and lamb’s lettuce, adding some earth and spice to the flavour profile.

Pescatarians will appreciate the Olive Oil Poached Sea Bass (RM120). In fact, everyone should. Juicy, tender sea bass fillets are poached in pure olive oil, crème fraîche butter sauce and chilli oil and served with root vegetables. A smooth and delicate dish.

The Steak Flambé au Poivre Vert (RM195) is a highlight of the evening, served with some old-school drama and fiery flair. The tenderloin steak is flambéed with Calvados brandy. It comes with a signature sauce made with port, green peppercorns, beef jus and cream. Perfectly cooked to medium-rare, naturally. The potato mille-feuille and French beans are also outstanding.

We finish with more flair – Crêpes Suzette (RM38) flambéed by the table. It’s an entertaining show; caramelised sugar, butter, orange zest, and orange juice combine in a hot pan to create a rich base – and stirred around using a whole orange on the end of a fork, to really get the juice and flesh into the mix. It smells unbelievably good.

The thin crepes are soaked briefly in the pan without getting soggy before a healthy shot of Cointreau is burned off with theatrical aplomb. It’s served with luxuriously creamy vanilla ice cream, and the play between sweet and soft and heat and citrus is working wonders.

I manage to charm one more limoncello out of a grinning Fifi, and it’s time to drag myself away from the table before I order more Anchovies on Toast.

Fritz Review

High-quality continental classics in a gorgeous restaurant high above the hustle and bustle of KLCC – what’s not to like? It’s simply a pleasure to be here, really; from the attentive service to the excellent food, the airy atmosphere to the balcony views. It’s sophisticated without being snobbish, polished without pretentiousness, and still feels like a special occasion.

Culinary quality shows in every dish, and there are plenty of creative touches to keep things interesting, both in the cocktails and the dining menu. Several dishes have the potential to become instant personal favourites – I know I won’t forget about Anchovies on Toast in a hurry.

Reasons to visit Fritz: Elaborate cocktail menu with creative tweaks to classic recipes; excellent and friendly service; Anchovies on Toast is one of the best starters in the city; a rich, indulgent and well-balanced food menu with meat and seafood options; theatrical flambée dishes; a beautifully renovated restaurant for a luxe sky dining experience in KLCC.