Gai @ M Resort – Thai Restaurant Bukit Kiara
Words: Stephen Reid
Photos: Peter Tan
Darren Chin is a name that rings a bell for any gourmand in Kuala Lumpur. His initials, D.C., are synonymous with culinary excellence, flavour harmony, and consistent quality.
He proved his mettle by bagging a Michelin star for his flagship restaurant, DC. by Darren Chin, and two Michelin nods for his other ventures, Bref by Darren Chin and Gai by Darren Chin, in the newly introduced Michelin Guide for Kuala Lumpur and Penang.
The original Gai by Darren Chin was a tribute to his wife, Nana, and her native Chiang Mai, Thailand. Opening in 2022 in a little space above his casual fine dining restaurant Bref, Gai was a family interpretation of Thai cuisine, with Darren’s wife at the helm and her parents, Papa Suwit and Mama Nuanta, all contributing recipes.
Some might be tempted to sit back, relax and enjoy their success, but not Darren Chin. He is always pushing the boundaries of his culinary art. His newest and most ambitious creation is a magnificent three-storey building that provides a new outpost for three of his signature restaurants. The building is nestled in the new M Resort in Bukit Kiara, a prime spot next to the prestigious Kuala Lumpur Golf and Country Club. The restaurants are Bref @ M Resort, a cosy French bistro; Monsieur Darren, a patisserie with mouthwatering French pastries; and Gai @ M Resort, a Thai restaurant that serves tasty, authentic dishes, which was our destination today.
Gai @ M Resort
Parking is available in the KGPA parking garage, and a convenient buggy service will drop you off at the restaurants. Darren Chin’s building is easy to locate to the left of the hotel lobby, as it boasts a vast video wall showcasing the resort and the restaurants. To get to Gai @ M Resort, we took the elevator on the left side of the chic lobby. As soon as we stepped out, we felt like we were transported to a cosy Thai villa. The entrance was decorated with wooden elements and terracotta tiles arranged in a herringbone pattern. A brick wall with the name Gai and a chicken head logo (gai means chicken in Thai) welcomed us to the restaurant.
The new restaurant preserves the authentic design elements of the original, such as the bamboo panels that adorn the ceiling and walls, the terracotta tiles that add warmth to the floor, and the sturdy wooden tables that invite diners to enjoy their meals. The dining room is spacious but not overwhelming, as wood and bamboo arches create cosy nooks for more privacy. The lighting is gentle and inviting, with subtle LED strips under the leather benches and in the wall niches, where reclaimed wood frames the textured plaster.
A large window at the rear of the restaurant reveals the kitchen, where a bustling team of chefs prepares the dishes with fresh spices, aromatic curries and sauces. Chicken and seafood sizzle on hot pans, but the glass divider ensures the guest experience is not disturbed. Next to the kitchen, a room houses ten massive tanks of live seafood, offering a variety of fish, oysters, crabs and crustaceans from which to choose. Each is kept in its own distinct tank with precise conditions for each species. A filtered stream of water ensures the ultimate in hygiene and a superbly clean taste.
Step past the bustling kitchen at Gai @ M Resort, and to your right, you’ll find a hidden gem: a spacious private dining room ready to host 16-18 guests. Rustic charm welcomes you with roughly plastered walls embraced by exposed timber beams. The centrepiece, though, is an awe-inspiring table. Imagine a colossal slab of locally sourced hardwood, thick and polished to a warm lustre. It’s the kind of table that begs for laughter, shared stories, and lingering meals.
Dark timber chairs, their woven bamboo backs softened by plump white cushions, surround the table, inviting you to settle in. But don’t be fooled by the seemingly casual design. At Gai @ M Resort, every detail whispers quality. Run your fingers across the embossed leather menus and wine lists, feel the reassuring weight of the cutlery, and admire the understated elegance of the crockery. There’s no flimsy veneer or plastic pretension here. This is a place built to endure, a testament to craftsmanship and a love for creating lasting experiences.
Thai Menu
Thai Tea
Nana warmly welcomed us with a choice of Thai Milk Tea (RM 12) or Matcha (RM 12). I went for the Milk Tea, expecting sweet. It surprised me! The creamy milkiness balanced perfectly with earthiness from the black tea, and unexpected hints of spice whispered in the background. Each sip was a smooth journey, from a sweet start to a lingering tea finish.
Navigating the vibrant world of Thai cuisine can be daunting, but at Gai @ M Resort, you’re in good hands. Their elegant leather-bound menu invites exploration with eye-catching photos of many dishes. Plus, if you’re still feeling adventurous, a curated list of the restaurant’s 15 most popular choices serves as the perfect inspiration.
Starters
Gai’s Pomelo Salad with Tiger Prawns (RM 58) is a vibrant mix of sweet, juicy pomelo, plump, spicy prawns, crunchy peanuts, and crispy shallots, all drizzled in a burst of aromatic dressing. This authentic Thai dish is light and refreshing, a great choice to start.
Live Seafood Menu
Live Oysters (RM48/100gms) at Gai @ M Resort are a must. These succulent oysters, fresh from the chilly waters of the United States, are given the royal treatment – resting in pristine, micro-filtered water tanks to ensure ultimate purity and sand-free perfection. They are perched upon a bed of crushed ice, adorned with a tangy hoy naam rom sauce, crisp shallots for textural contrast, and dainty leucaena leaves. Just slightly larger than their Australian or Irish counterparts, these oysters are a proper gastronomic tour de force, delivering a burst of oceanic flavour in every bite.
The Grilled Giant River Prawns (RM 50 pc, approx 300-350grms) are fished from Bangladesh’s waters and hand-selected by the chef’s reliable supplier, who promises to keep the very most giant specimens for him. Grilled until golden, the prawns are split open and served alongside a zesty chilli dipping sauce, the perfect complement to the succulent buttery meat. Each bite is a balance of delicate sweetness and subtle spice. These prawns are a seafood aficionado’s dream, a true testament to the power of simple, fresh ingredients.
Wine List
While Gai @ M Resort boasts a meticulously curated wine list from around the globe, drawn from Darren Chin’s 4,000-bottle cellar at his D.C. restaurant, today he steered us towards the world of sake. We opted for the Tosatsuru 48% Junmai Dai Ginjo Gensu CEL-24, hailing from Kouchi, Japan. At RM45 a glass or RM250 a bottle, it was an enticing choice. Darren’s philosophy? Spicy curries and sauces often find a more suitable partner in sake than wine or beer. With its clean taste that doesn’t linger yet offers a pleasing mouthfeel against the fire, sake steps into the limelight.
And the Tosatsuru lived up to the hype. A balanced sake, its fruity aroma and smooth texture were just the beginning. This off-dry, velvety daiginjo whispered hints of strawberry and lively fruit. This surprising pairing was a winner, one I’ll treasure for future adventures with spicy fare.
Curries Stews & Soups Menu
A feast for the senses awaits you with the Lady Boss Nana Signature Tom Yum Seafood, a dish that showcases the best of the ocean and the spice of Thailand. Choose from Medium (RM 128 for 2-3 pax) or Large (RM 199 for 4-5 pax) and enjoy the succulent Sabah river prawns, Hokkaido scallops, jumbo shrimp, fresh crab meat, and tender squid, all simmered in mouthwatering tom yum broth that Nana, the wife of Darren Chin and the ‘Lady Boss’ behind Gai @ M Resort, has perfected over the years.
This is one of my favourite Thai dishes, and I was delighted when it arrived in a heated brass dish, emitting a heavenly aroma of herbs and spices. The sight of the plump river prawns, nestled in a rich red broth adorned with coriander and chillies, made my mouth water. I was initially cautious, as I had disappointing experiences with tom yum outside of Thailand, where the chilli was too overpowering and ruined the balance of flavours. But I was pleasantly surprised by how well Nana had adjusted the heat level, allowing the subtle notes of lemongrass, galangal, and lime leaves to shine, enhancing the freshness and sweetness of the seafood.
Thai Curry
Gai @ M Resort serves Pha Naeng Red Curry with Chicken (RM 48), incorporating a traditional recipe from Nana’s mother, Mama Nuanta. The curry blends authentic flavours with locally sourced, fresh ingredients. It’s a dish that honours tradition and delivers bold flavours. Steamed jasmine rice is the ideal companion for its creamy texture and mild sweetness with a hit of spice.
Number One Must-try at Gai @ M Resort
Our next dish was Gai’s Signature Omelette by Darren Chin (RM 180), the number one dish on the menu. You may flinch at the price of this omelette, but trust me, it’s worth every penny. This is no ordinary omelette. This is made with the finest ingredients: OnZen ivory eggs, which have a creamy and velvety texture, and jumbo lump crab meat, the crème de la crème of the crustacean world. It comes from the muscles attached to the swimming legs of the crab, and it has a succulent and sweet flavour that elevates any dish to a new level. The generous lumps, as big as marbles, are reserved for the most exquisite creations. It’s accompanied by a signature nam jim dipping sauce with a fiery and tangy kick that contrasts beautifully with the rich and delicate omelette. This omelette could easily feed two to four people.
Dessert Menu
Our first dessert, Red Rubies (RM 25), is a fave, but not so many places make it with expensive water chestnuts these days. Of course, the team at Gai @ M Resort do! The crunchy red balls are partnered with jackfruit slices and attap seeds on crushed ice, all submerged in a pool of coconut milk. It’s a winning combo and was an all-round table pleaser with our team.
We finished with the lesser-known Khanom Tom (RM 25). The soft coconut balls were presented in a small dish on a bamboo leaf. Each ball offered a burst of coconut complemented by palm sugar’s delicate sweetness. They’re even better with a splash of coconut cream, served apart for adding to your own preference.
Gai @ M Resort Review
Forget average Thai fare. Gai @ M Resort elevates the experience to refined flavours and meticulous tradition. What began as a humble homage to Chiang Mai cuisine has blossomed into a multi-location gem, celebrating premium ingredients and generational recipes. While not “fine dining,” Gai is a celebration of quality. Exquisite flavours emerge from time-honoured recipes and modern techniques, creating dishes that linger on the memory. Here, the traditional dance of sweet, sour, salty, and spicy unfolds perfectly, a testament to the freshest ingredients and Nana and Darren Chin’s masterful partnership.
Reasons to visit Gai @ M Resort: Darren Chin’s signature omelette is a decadent treat, a must-try that will have you bragging to your friends. The Pomelo salad is a revelation, the epitome of fresh and delicate flavours. The Tom Yum soup is so good it’ll ruin your taste for any other Tom Yum. The Red Rubies dessert is as stunning to the eyes as to the palate. Pair the spicy curries with Sake for a truly elevated experience, as recommended by the master himself.
Gai @ M Resort
To the left of the main lobby of M Resort & Hotel Bukit Kiara
1 Jalan Damansara, Bukit Kiara, 60000 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
+6 011 1145 8411
gai-kl.com
Gai @ M Resort Opening Hours
Daily 12 p.m. – 3 p.m., then 5.30 p.m. – 11 p.m.
Closed Mondays
Find more Darren Chin restaurants here and stay up to date with the latest food and beverage happenings in KL here and here.
That giant prawn looks like to die for…